Ceramic tile wood floor. Laying tiles on a wooden floor. Checking the condition of the coverage

This type of finishing material for the floor is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with laying, only in private households.

And the most key ones are the presence of floors from. Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is particularly acute.

And, if possible, how is it done correctly, what is the emphasis on, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? detailed instructions and warnings to beginners are set out in full below.

Usage floor covering from tiles in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can organize a water-heated floor or an electric one.

This will save money on paying for, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

• High wear resistance
• Long service life
• fire resistance
• Tiles can withstand high loads
• Ease of care
• Ease of installation

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything became more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tile. There will be no particular difficulties in this, if you have even the slightest idea about the cost of laying tiles. And it happens:

• Straightforward
• Diagonal (oblique)
• herringbone
• Offset

It is worth dwelling a little more specifically on the choice of tiles in the bathroom of a private sector room.

Here preference should be given to non-slip. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath in principle, you can read more about the laying process a little lower in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

• calculate the area of ​​the room
• add 7% to the received indicator
• divide the result of the calculation by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plate
• divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
• round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical - "rectilinear". If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most milestone works, because the quality and the final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for tiling, the choice of one of them directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wood floor is a one-piece construction, not just top floorboards.

This includes: logs, beams and substrate.

And they need to be double-checked before laying.

Gender check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards with a new floor covering, which implies a complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it does not emit any creak, the floorboards are securely fixed and do not wobble at all.

Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it must be additionally redesigned, in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm verification work in a wooden base:

• Floorboards are removed
• Beams and logs are being audited
• The level checks the evenness and horizontality load-bearing structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of scrap is hammered under it, fastened, and the excess is simply cut off.

Surface preparation

Wood by nature organic material, which means that it cannot be considered stable and reliable. With an increase in humidity, it swells, with its lack - on the contrary, it dries up, decreasing in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical specifications basics.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before laying it will be organized to cushion the movement of the floorboards - a damper layer. Where he turns to the base of the tile with a solid surface, and elastic to a wooden one, taking on pushes.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the tree must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when processing the floor:

• Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
• Fill the distance between the lags with expanded clay of fine fraction
• Prepare new or old floorboards
• Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
• Lay the floorboards on the structure with a gap between them of 5 mm (for expansion)
• If there are cracks, knots on the floorboards - they need to be puttied and sanded
• Fully sand the coating, after roughing
• The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
• To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil

Lightweight tie device

Third stage preparatory work there is a creation of a solid base under the tile. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightweight because it cannot withstand a full-fledged, considered base.

In principle, for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tiles three are used to organize the screed:

• Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, fixed with self-tapping screws and poured with concrete mortar.
• Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. They are used to create an elastic coating, to prevent cracking of tile dies from wood movements.

Screed based liquid glass can be cooked.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions, respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bath in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP boards.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the plates and the joints of the subfloor do not match.

You can protect and additionally fasten the seams with a special adhesive for drywall.

Highlights of installing tiles on wooden floors

The whole installation process consists of next steps: marking, preparing glue, laying and grouting tile joints. We will not dwell on each separately this time, but we will analyze the most important ones right now:

• It will not be superfluous to place the tiles on the floor before “landing” them on the glue. So you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing the edged parts, select a more accurate pattern, and so on.
• It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it convenient to adhere to the same width of the seams, you can use crosses in your work.
• To increase the adhesion of the base of the tile and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive in your work.
• To increase the strength characteristics of the hitch, you can use compounds containing plasticizers or add them yourself to the adhesive at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the adhesive.
• It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
• The working surface (glue application area) should not be too large - optimally one square meter.
• If mistakes are made during laying, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, move towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is fragility, but, with proper care for 7 years, it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable foundation.

Despite the fragility - this is the most optimal momentary problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no special difficulties and problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare wooden base, and how to do this, everyone who reads the material will know.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - on the video:

In many houses, the floor is made of joisted floorboards. When walking, it bends, so the correct installation of tiles or porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor becomes not an easy task. In this article, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to prepare the base.

Unlike wood, tile has a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:

• does not ignite;
• non-toxic;
• not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
• withstands heavy loads;
• does not conduct electricity;
• does not lose appearance from moisture, sunlight or frost;
• ceramics is unpretentious in cleaning.

The main drawback of the tile is the cold surface, so it will not be very pleasant to walk barefoot. To get rid of this, often use underfloor heating. installed even on a wooden base.

Laying process

Installation of tiles is designed for a durable and hard surface. Therefore, first you need to survey the existing floor.

As a rule, old floors consist of several layers:

• coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
• substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed on the logs;
• Logs that lie on a concrete base along the entire floor with a gap of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.

Wood floor preparation

First option

Suitable for those who have and bends.

1. 1. Remove old coating and backing. If the old lags are in good condition, then you can leave them as a basis.
   2. Remove the floor sheathing with a nail puller. Then set the logs on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.

For greater preservation of the tree, process the logs protective impregnation.

1. 1. Fill the logs to the upper level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from bending when walking.

1. We sheathe the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. Boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws about 5 centimeters long.
2. For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or then drill holes.
3. We lay parchment paper on top of the boards and lay a new substrate. For this, gypsum fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 millimeters or a cement-bonded particle board of 10-20 millimeters are suitable. Sheets need to be fastened in a run-up using self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the lags, in increments of 15-20 cm.
4. The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with mounting foam.
5. Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would a normal floor.

Second option

Suitable for those whose floor is in poor condition, but the conditions allow for a screed.

1. Remove old floor covering. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tile.
   The easiest way to waterproof is to use a plastic film.
2. Using a laser or water level, mark the horizontal line of the floor around the perimeter of the room.
3. At a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls, install beacons. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
4. The screed is made either with a solution of cement and sand (composition: 1 part of M-400 cement to 3 parts of sand), or cast concrete.
5. The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per sq. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
6. If you need to fill in too large a layer, then first pour expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill with a screed and wait for drying during the day.
7. After drying, clean the surface from the floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with mortar. This time you need to align it with the lighthouse rule so that the floor is even. Start leveling from the far corner towards the exit.
8. After three days, prime the screed and preferably fill it with a self-leveling mortar.
9. All! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.

Third option

Suitable for those who have gender in good condition and sheathed with chipboard sheets.

1. Waterproof the gaps between the wall and the tree with mounting foam.
2. Soak the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, this is flammable).
3. Then apply a thick layer of latex to the chipboard surface.
4. Immediately after applying it, place a masking net on the surface, and leave to dry.
5. When the latex dries, the mesh must be fixed with screws to the floor.
6. Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts liquid glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
7. It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-levelling mortar. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

Video on laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:

That's all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task, which will require a lot of additional training. And if you put a tile directly on a tree, the tile will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. Expert advice will take into account all important points in the process of installation and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

• If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
• In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinder, or an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. Keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.

. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. The paint is impregnated with a chemical composition, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.

Before laying the material chipboard sheets, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil at a warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If spots appear on the outside of the tile, then a slight wetting of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

• Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

• Dry screed . This method is the most popular, because it allows you to create not only an even, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
• Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

• On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center of a large wall is measured and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
  
• The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls to the maximum.
  

  The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

• The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
• Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
  

  It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

• You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of ​​the floor treated with glue.
  

• The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
  

  The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.

• We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

• After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
  

  There are collections floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.

• A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
• If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

Porcelain stoneware and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is much more difficult than on a concrete one. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue and groove tiling.

Self-laying tiles on a wooden floor is dangerous with mistakes. Home master nuances should be taken into account:

The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:

• the service life of plywood, sheet pile, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
• internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
• hardness of cured tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile facings is by default higher than wood-based boards, sheet piles and edged board;
• in ceilings along beams, a wooden black floor is practically the only structural solution;
• in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made along the logs over the slab, in this case, the structure should be simplified by dismantling the floorboards and logs, pouring the screed for tiling.

Tiles are glued to a wooden floor with special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:

• wood can dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
• with a deflection of a less durable base, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, the tile will fly off.

To ensure the main condition - the rigidity of the base floor is higher than finish coat, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:

Cladding technology

The most complex technique for gluing porcelain stoneware to a tongue, the simplest is a self-leveling floor screed over DSP sheets, which is not difficult to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finish coating in them should be at least 2 cm higher.

The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the hallway.

Conflict wooden structures and ceramic claddings over them is caused by the following factors:

Therefore, the operational resource of load-bearing beams and wooden decking is sharply reduced.

Tiles on the black floor

If the project includes ceilings along beams, a binder is attached to these supporting structures at the lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as necessary, then the subfloor is lined.

The budget option is edged board flooring, but in order to lay tiles on top of the subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget, make the subfloor from board materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will decrease, the stability of the geometry and the overall resource of the structure will increase.

Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, a dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:

• expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and it cannot evaporate the accumulated moisture through the waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
• the design has a solid weight, respectively, heavily loads the beams of wooden floors.

However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:

Advice! To correctly lay the flooring, you should consider the placement of plumbing, the geometry of the room and the format of the tiles. Either a solid tile or pieces of more than half of its format should adjoin the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.

Gluing on a special mixture

Most of the leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special formulations increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures with tiles. Most popular products:

• Lacrysil - packaged in red buckets;
• Kreps - Super modification;
• Litokol - Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
• Ceresit - a mixture of SM-17.

It is possible to lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion, both to the bottom layer of wood and the top - ceramic tiles. However, the life of these compounds is low, they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.

Advice! Glue tiles with ordinary tile adhesive on wood is not recommended, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.

The technology for laying tiles on a black floor is as follows:

• sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, DSP with putty;
• applying special tile adhesive to the base;
• leveling the pastel with a notched trowel;
• laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.

Usually one-piece cladding elements are mounted according to the layout scheme. The next day, cutting and stacking of pieces is performed. Then the seams are rubbed and the plinths attached to the walls are mounted.

The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled by lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. Additionally, puttying the surface of the black floor is not necessary. First you need to get rid of the squeaks and replace the beams / logs if necessary.

Unlike most wood-based boards from which the subfloor is made, OSB is coated with wax. Which provides additional costs to the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with angle grinders, artificially increase the adhesion of the base with tile adhesive and reinforce this layer with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP / chipboard or plywood.

Tiles on grooved board

The technology for decorating a tongue and groove with tiles is very complicated due to the following nuances:

Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the beams hardwood floor. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.

Revision and strengthening

Before gluing tiles on a wooden floor, it is imperative to revise the supporting structures:

• add logs to reduce the distance between them and / or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
• eliminate creaking, stretch self-tapping screws or add additional fasteners to an existing structure;
• replace, if necessary, vapor barrier and insulation materials;
• pull off the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate cracks;
• remove the paintwork completely with a grinder;
• treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire and bioprotection (the composition additionally includes a flame retardant that increases fire resistance).

Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the lags.

More details about the laying of the grooved board were discussed.

self-leveling floor

For leveling boardwalk wooden house budgetary modifications of a self-leveling floor on a cement basis are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes it easier to work with these compounds. The main nuances of the technology are:

For walking on liquid solution paint shoes with a needle sole are used.

Unlike wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled "to zero". However, at the same time, separating layers of hydro-, vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.

Tile decoration

Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a wooden base or a screed, you should adhere to the standard cladding technology:

Advice! Floor plumbing is best mounted on top of the tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even solid base, and allow you to save the pattern of the seams.

Since the height of the flooring in the bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to door frame. There is no interface node with others facing materials, do not need a threshold and a plinth.

Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be laid independently, both on a wooden black floor and on grooved board floorboards. In this case, the recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum operational life.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

It is believed that a wooden floor is not at all a suitable base for laying tiles. But in this article we will dispel this myth and tell you in detail how to do everything correctly and reliably. We will show you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor using plywood as a leveler and stabilizer.

Also, if you are dealing with wooden floors, you need to use a special tile adhesive. But more on that later in the article.

So can you tile on wood floors?

Experienced tilers will most likely say that laying tiles on wooden surface- bad idea. This point of view is very common, and generally true. But, as you know: "if you really want, then you can."

This is due to the fact that wood is an unstable material. It changes its properties with changes in temperature and humidity, it can expand or contract. This will cause the surface to move. Tiles turn hard finishing material, and the base for it must remain stationary. If the floor in a wooden house will “walk”, then the tile will chip off, peel off and collapse over time.

You also need to remember that under a layer of tile adhesive, the tree will not get access to oxygen. This can sometimes cause the wood fibers to rot and break down quickly. Even if you provide decent underground ventilation and treat the tree with special impregnations, keep in mind that the service life of porcelain tiles is much longer than wooden planks and bars.

Our expert's comment:“In general, I am personally against tiles on wooden floor. In any case, it is not so reliable and durable. Several times I had to deal with this - everything seems to be fine. But in my opinion, it’s easier to remove the wooden floor and make the “floor cake” again with a concrete base. But yes, there are situations when you can take a chance and try to lay on a tree.

It is clear that sometimes it is either impossible or very expensive to redo the floor. Only in such cases, if you really want to see tiles on a wooden floor, you can try to “stabilize” the floor.”

If for some reason you need to put tiles on a wooden floor, there is a technology (or you can say an instruction) that will help you avoid the problems described above.

How to do it?

Do correct styling floor tiles, on a wooden surface can be done in several stages.

Preparing an old wood floor

Before laying a stabilizing layer of plywood on the floor (more on this later in the article), it is necessary to tidy up the base of the wooden floor. Ideally, there should be 1-2 mm between the boards for ventilation and movement when they dry out. But, if the finished floor is already lying and “tightened”, you can simply leave gaps between the walls and the floor.

The logs on which the boards lie should run longitudinally and transversely, at intervals of no more than 50 cm.

There must be a layer of waterproofing under the subfloor. In the space between the draft boards and the main floor, you can lay mineral wool on the vapor barrier or fill the empty space with loose insulation.

It is important to leave 5 cm of free space between the main floor and the top of the loose mix for ventilation. Also check that the boards are level. Damaged boards and logs must be replaced.

Ideally, it is desirable to disassemble the old wooden floor and process all its elements separately. Boards and logs need to be sanded, cleaned of old varnish or paint. After that, it is required to impregnate all wooden elements with antifungal impregnations.

Only after the impregnation has dried, fill the empty space between the draft and the main floor with expanded clay. Do not forget about the empty space for ventilation.

Laying plywood or drywall

When the old floor is prepared, waterproofed and insulated, you need to lay two layers of moisture-resistant plywood on it. You need to fix it with galvanized screws screwed into the logs. Plywood will strengthen the entire structure and remove the destructive movement of the tree when temperature or humidity changes. Carefully align the plywood sheets with a level and securely fix.

Advice from our expert:“In general, in this case, I would recommend the scheme: old wooden floor - plywood - cement screed - tiles. But I understand that no one will bother so much. Therefore, we skip the screed element, and act without it.

Another point: it is better not to use a tile. It is better to take porcelain stoneware - it is stronger, and in such a situation it is critical.”

You can use moisture-resistant drywall instead of plywood ( GVL), OSB sheets (OSB), sometimes even chipboard, but plywood is better.

Master's advice:“Plywood must be laid “in a row”, i.e. so that the joints of the top layer do not fall on the first layer. Yes, by the way, GVL can be laid instead of plywood.”

After the moisture-resistant plywood is fixed, it must be treated with a deep penetration primer ( we recommend "betonkontakt").

She needs to dry for 4 hours to continue further work. A moisture-resistant sealant must be applied around the perimeter.

The tiling process

When the surface is primed, you can start laying ceramic tiles.

In our case, classic tile adhesive is not suitable. You need to use a special polyurethane adhesive for tiles. It will be more expensive than the classic dry mix tile adhesive, but such an adhesive will at least slightly compensate for the mobility of the floor.

Alternatively, you can take glue from Litikol. Its cost is 3500 rubles per 5 kilograms. The height of the grooves of the glue should be 8-10 mm. It is just like for a wooden floor, for porcelain stoneware.

After applying glue to the plywood, start applying tiles to it, inserting plastic crosses between them. Be sure to check each tile with a level. After the glue has completely hardened, it is necessary to wipe the seams and fill them with a fugue.

Our site has separate and detailed articles on these topics.

Tiles can be cut with a grinder. Apply glue using a notched trowel.

Reliability and durability

Even if all the rules are followed, the reliability of such a surface will be much worse than tiles laid on a concrete base. The concrete base is much more reliable and durable in all respects. It is easier to lay tiles on it.

In a wooden house, the tiled floor can crack, “peel” over time.

We understand that there are situations when it is too difficult and expensive to remodel a floor. In these cases, you can lay the tiles as we described above.