Installation of radiator batteries in the apartment. How to install a heating battery - installation methods and options. aluminum radiator prices

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When should radiators be replaced?

The solution to all the described problems is provided by the installation of heating radiators. It is produced in accordance with the standards technical requirements, the type and power of heating batteries (radiators) corresponding to the task are selected. We do high-quality repair of heating systems in case of leaks.

The models on the market are attractively discreet elegant design, which harmoniously fits into the interior space of housing. It should be noted their compactness, which simply saves when installation work ah in small spaces. Thanks to the well-thought-out characteristics, the radiator unit will uninterruptedly warm your home in severe frosts. The price of replacing heating radiators includes turning off the riser. You can contact us by phone, or make a request through the site, receiving a response in the form of a callback.

The StroyGarant-M company is the leader in the installation business: we have been replacing heating batteries in apartments for more than 10 years. Rotate old devices to modern ones with us bimetal radiators Italian production. With one call, our specialists will promptly come to you.

In addition to the installation of radiators, we offer our customers several types of services: change the heated towel rail, replace the riser or wall chasing. We use only modern materials We work in every locality in the region.

Installation of heating radiators at the best price

The cost of the work and the chosen model will fully pay off by saving on heating in the next couple of years, and even more if you install heat meters. Buying from us radiators from leading manufacturers in Russia and Europe, you save both on the purchase and on the cost of installation.

A simple replacement of heating batteries includes: inspection, consultation, selection of new products, dismantling of old ones, installation additional equipment if necessary, commissioning. You can order a visit of a specialist for a certain date by phone or by leaving a request on the website.

You have the opportunity to calculate the preliminary cost using our Calculator, and the final one will be reported by the specialist who inspected the object. Replacement of heating radiators, the price of which remains stable throughout the period of the service, is drawn up by an agreement with a written quality guarantee.

Options for connecting heating systems

The inlet pipe, bypass is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This connection method is used to install batteries in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system.

The main inlet pipe is installed at the top on one side of the radiator, and the outlet pipe is installed at the bottom, on the other side of the radiators. This method is used in our company to install radiators in apartments with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of the installation method of heating systems is that the battery provides maximum heat transfer.

This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is that you can disguise pipes under the baseboard or hide them in a screed under the floor.

In two-pipe systems, there are two separate pipelines (supply and return), the supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one. This method is used to install radiators in apartments with a two-pipe heating system.

The conductive pipe must be connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one on the other side. This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a two-pipe heating system. The advantage of the method is the maximum heat transfer of the coolant.

The supply pipe is laid at the bottom of the return pipe. The coolant moves along the riser from the bottom up. The air from the system exits through Mayevsky's taps. Such a system for connecting radiators is suitable for heating low-rise buildings, private houses.

* Delivery of batteries is free of charge in case of purchase and installation of the battery in our company.

Heating radiators are different construction and metal from which they are made.

Each type is more or less suitable for apartment.

Bimetallic. The design has elements made of different metals. There are pairs of aluminum-copper and aluminum-steel. Good decision for an apartment. They have the highest heat transfer among other types of radiators. Easily mounted, have a high working pressure - 35 atm. They are relatively expensive.

Aluminum radiators relatively easy to install, they have good heat dissipation. Working pressure - up to 18 atm., which makes it possible to install in high-rise buildings. Almost not susceptible to corrosion. Not installed if the pipes are made of copper, as this metal reacts with aluminum, which destroys both the pipe and the device.

Cast iron common in old houses with a small number of storeys due to the low working pressure max 12 atm. Not very suitable for apartments, because, firstly, they are heavy, which makes the installation process difficult. The devices heat up slowly and cool down slowly, making it difficult to adjust the room temperature. On the other hand, these devices do not react with the coolant, they are durable.

Steel. Inexpensive solution for apartment buildings on several floors. They rust quickly, so the service life is short - 15-25 years. But they are easy to install. Compatible with any pipes. There is no possibility of building with additional sections.

Exist special instructions installation of thermal radiators. They are registered in SNiP. The device must withstand the pressure of the coolant in the heating system

The metal from which the radiator is made should not be with the pipes of the system galvanic couples. This happens, for example, in the interaction of aluminum and copper. The reaction of such a compound will lead to corrosion.

Distance between the appliance and the protruding part of the window sill should be 10 cm. If this figure is less than 75% of the depth of the radiator, the release of heat flow will be difficult.

There must be a gap of at least 10 cm and no more than 15 cm between the lower edge of the device and the floor. If the distance is small, heat exchange will take place inefficient and slow, and with a large one there will be a strong temperature drop along the height of the room.

Important: the upper planes of the radiator sections must be in the same plane, a spread of more than 3 mm is unacceptable.

If the device is installed not under the window, but near the wall, the distance between these two surfaces is at least 20 cm.

Radiator location

The thermal device is installed in such a way that its heat dissipation is most effective.

The best place- under the windows, since it is through them that the largest heat losses occur. If the room has an external cold wall, additional radiators are installed on it.

Pipes in the heating system:

• Steel pipes traditionally installed in high-rise apartment buildings. Tolerate high pressure and temperature. Subject to corrosion.
• metal-plastic began to be used for laying heating system recently, but they have already become popular. Convenient when installing radiators.
• Polypropylene pipes are also popular. Ease of installation is due to the possibility of permanent connection through the diffusion welding method.
• Polyethylene pipes although they are not often used due to the somewhat high price and small scope. The latter is due to the design feature, or rather, the bending radius.
• Copper- a rare solution due to the high cost and high requirements for the coolant. They are installed only in private houses.

accessories

Accessories include accessories. designed to bleed air or other gases from the radiator. The presence of air in a heater is called "air bag". It can cause incorrect operation of the radiator.

Attention! Before you bleed the air in the heating radiators, carefully read the instructions in order to avoid depressurization of the system.

There are also reflective screens on sale, which are mounted on the wall behind the heating device, designed to reduce heat loss. Evaporators on the radiator, which maintain the humidity in the room. Fans that are installed on the device itself in order to increase heat transfer and the dryer.

What hinders efficient heating?

The room can be cold not only because of bad work devices, but also because of the barriers that the person himself sets. Heat dissipation decreases if:

• the radiator is covered with long curtains;
• the device is covered with upholstered furniture;
• there are protruding window sills;
• decorative grilles are located on top.

Wiring diagrams and installation of an additional radiator

There are several installation diagrams heating radiators in the apartment :

1. Lateral. The most common connection scheme due to high heat transfer. The pipe through which the coolant is supplied is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe, respectively, to the lower one.
2. lower they are used mainly in apartments where pipes are hidden in the floor or pass under the baseboard. Branch pipes for supply and discharge are located at the bottom.
3. Diagonal used to connect radiators, the number of sections in which exceeds 12 pieces. Warm liquid is supplied to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and is discharged through the lower one on the other.
4. Sequential can only be used on systems with high pressure, which is able to ensure the movement of the coolant through all radiators.

Installing an additional radiator:

1. The coolant is removed from the system.
2. Choose a place for fastenings and install brackets.
3. Assemble the radiator. For this, a special sealing flax is used. Use a torque wrench to tighten connections.
4. On one of the side unused holes is installed Mayevsky's crane. The rest are sealed off.
5. The radiator is mounted on a wall and is exposed horizontally and vertically.
6. The thread is cut at the junction with the riser, the remaining necessary elements are attached. Everything is connected into one system.
7. At the end - a mandatory check for tightness.

Before self-installation batteries in the apartment must be thoroughly prepared. Even minor mistakes can lead to an accident and additional cash costs. You should choose the radiator itself, evaluate which connection scheme will be the most effective and prepare the necessary tools in advance.

If you have basic technical knowledge and skills in working with tools, install a radiator is quite real. It is important to study the issue, follow the instructions and weigh each step.

A master class on installing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, look at the video:

What are the mistakes when replacing heating radiators, find out from the video below:

Schemes for installing heating radiators in an apartment - look at the video for more details:

Learn how to connect a heating radiator with the greatest efficiency from the video below:

Are you planning to change the heating devices in your own house? For this, knowledge about the types of battery wiring, how to connect and place them is useful. Agree, because its efficiency directly depends on the correctness of the chosen scheme for connecting heating radiators in a particular house or room.

Proper connection of batteries is a very important task, because it is able to provide a comfortable temperature in all rooms at any time of the year. It is good when fuel consumption is minimal, and the house is warm on the coldest days.

We'll help you figure out what you need to maximize your effective work radiators. In the article you will find many useful information about ways to connect batteries and their implementation without the involvement of specialists. Schemes are given, as well as video materials that will help you visually understand the essence of the issue.

An efficient heating system can save you money on fuel bills. Therefore, when designing it, decisions should be made carefully. After all, sometimes the advice of a neighbor in the country or a friend who recommends such a system as his is not at all suitable.

Sometimes there is no time to deal with these issues. In this case, it is better to turn to professionals who have been working in this field for more than 5 years and have grateful reviews.

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The first option involves the use of physical laws without the purchase and installation of additional devices. Suitable when water is used as the heat carrier. Any non-freeze will circulate worse through the system.

The system consists of a boiler that heats water, an expansion tank, supply and return pipelines, batteries. Water, heating up, expands and begins its movement along the riser, visiting the installed radiators in turn. The cooled water from the system flows back to the boiler by gravity.

With this circulation option, the horizontal pipeline is installed with a slight inclination towards the movement of the coolant. This system is self-regulating, because depending on the temperature of the water, its quantity also changes. The circulation pressure increases, allowing the water to evenly heat the room.

With natural circulation, two-pipe and one-pipe schemes with an upper wiring are used, two-pipe with a lower one. It is advantageous to use such methods of connecting radiators to the heating system for small rooms.

It is important to equip batteries with air vents to remove excess air or install automatic air vents on risers. The boiler is best located in the basement, so that it is lower than the heated room.

For houses with an area of ​​​​100 m 2 or more, the coolant circulation system will have to be changed. In this case, you will need special device, stimulating the movement of water or antifreeze through pipes. We are talking about . Its power depends on the area of ​​the heated room. The use of a pump for forced circulation allows the use of antifreeze as a coolant. In this case, you need to install expansion tank closed type so that the fumes do not harm the health of the inhabitants of the house

The circulation pump is used in two- and one-pipe circuits with a horizontal and vertical heating device connection system.

You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.

Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, between the sections provides threaded connection using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.

And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.

Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators and there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the hydraulic scheme shown. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of a one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during creation, and the volume of installation work is reduced.

If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.

On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.

It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.

Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

Prices for popular heating radiators

• Option "a" is called a riser with top feed and coolant. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
• Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the heating system "Leningradka"

Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

What if the system is two-pipe?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:

Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.

aluminum radiator prices

aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes- supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".

By the way, even in conditions not very big house A combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are located. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of the flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the supply and "return".

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives maximum efficiency heat exchange.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.

• This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
• Secondly, the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself also becomes the “driving force”. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.

Prices for cast iron radiators

cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, infeed from above

Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of ​​the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, feed from above

Highly widespread scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the “peripheral zone” of a stagnation area, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the tie-in.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, infeed from below

The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.

For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bidirectional bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.

Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.

Diagonal connection from below

It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetal radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.

Bilateral top connection

Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail apply various ways transformation of such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?

It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.

There are other methods to solve this problem.

• You can purchase batteries that, while outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator may be designed for the lower bilateral connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, already underway, how in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.

• There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.

They must match their dimensions to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then in its internal thread the supply or "return" pipe is packed, depending on the scheme.

• shown above internal partitions are intended at least to improve heat transfer when batteries are connected on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.

Many masters practice and independent production similar extensions. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.

As the extension itself, it is quite possible to use a metal-plastic pipe for hot water, with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

And what about a one-way bottom connection?

They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.

But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. one side bottom:

If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of them. best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.

The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of other important nuances its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

• Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, heated air flows become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

• If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
• The battery should not be installed too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is impossible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
• There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low a height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into a dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
• It is necessary to maintain the optimal location from bearing wall. Even when installing the brackets for the battery canopy, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for full heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options installation of radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.

Illustration	Operational features of the installation option
	The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%.
	A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the determining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%.
	The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%.

So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.

Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose correct scheme proceeding from from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is quite simple.

• First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
• Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
• The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time

Here materials are collected on such a topic as installing heating batteries in an apartment: video and photo materials, preparatory work, installation rules, how to properly install cast iron, bimetallic and aluminum radiator.

The heat in an apartment often depends on quite simple things: old or new radiators are installed, what material they are made of, and according to what scheme the heating system is connected.

By changing the quality of one of the components that affect the heating of housing, you can arrange a "summer" at an affordable price.

Installing heating radiators in an apartment is not such a complicated procedure if you know the norms and have the necessary tools at hand.

Rules and regulations for replacement

According to the standards given in SNiP, you can easily find out which batteries to purchase for replacement and how to change them.

To know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, you will need to consider the following provisions:

1. New batteries must withstand the same or higher pressure loads as the old ones. In the presence of centralized system heating, it is enough to call the organization supplying heat to apartment house and find out what you need.
2. The material from which they are made must be compatible with the old pipes. If, for example, copper radiators are attached to steel risers, then soon you will have to face such a problem as corrosive leakage.
3. The norms for installing heating radiators in an apartment require that the distance between them and the bottom of the window sill is at least 10 cm, otherwise the heat flow will not be able to be released at the required speed, and the rooms will either warm up longer, spending more time on it, or remain cool.
4. The distance of the lower part of the battery from the floor should correspond to a minimum gap of 10 and a maximum of 15 cm. If these figures are reduced or increased, this will also affect the quality of heat transfer in the apartment.
5. The same applies to the distance between the radiator and the wall. It should be equal to 20 mm, and then everything will be fine with the heat exchange in the rooms.

All the rules for installing heating batteries in an apartment are taken into account in SNiP, so it’s enough to familiarize yourself with them, check with the indicators of the old system and make right choice when buying new elements and connecting them.

How to install a heating battery in an apartment, read below.

Installation of heating batteries in the apartment

Preparatory work

Advice to trust the experts when dealing with central heating high-rise building, quite unsatisfactory. Any "amateur" in this regard is punishable. Incorrectly selected radiators or pipes for risers or their incorrect connection can leave the entire entrance without heat or cause a serious accident.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries (radiators) in an apartment is permissible only if all the rules are observed and the necessary tools are available.

After the radiator replacement scheme has been agreed with the relevant services, you can proceed to the preparatory work:

1. Shut off the water, both in the apartment and in the areas to be replaced.
2. Drain the water from the old batteries and remove them.
3. Blow out the system and free from coolant residues.
4. Install a new radiator according to the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Test the system for leaks and the quality of heating of the battery cells.

If a single-pipe heating scheme is used in a high-rise building, then connect radiators with a large number sections than it was before is prohibited.

How to install a heating radiator in an apartment?

Options for installing heating batteries in an apartment - photo:

Features of installing cast iron batteries

Modern cast iron batteries are quite elegant and presentable, so they can "fit" into any interior. In addition, they most often correspond to the norms of the old system.

How to install heating batteries in an apartment?

To be produced correct installation heating batteries in the apartment, you must follow the following sequence of actions:

1. The cast iron section must be disassembled into separate elements.
2. Tighten the nipples with a special key.
3. Assemble all elements in reverse order.

Although appearance cast-iron batteries is strikingly different from the old Soviet "harmonicas", their weight is still considerable. To reduce the load on the walls, you can use brackets, and if their surface is made of drywall, then such a battery will need a floor stand.

If cast-iron batteries are installed at a slight angle, this will allow you to maintain a high degree of heat transfer, since air will not accumulate inside it.

Installation rules for bimetallic and aluminum radiators

Aluminum batteries offered by the domestic market are of two types:

1. Those that are able to withstand pressure up to 16 atm. and intended for high-rise buildings.
2. Those suitable for autonomous heating with working pressure up to 6 atm. The latter are not suitable for connecting to a centralized system.

The features of their installation are:

1. Battery cells must be assembled by inserting plugs with gaskets.
2. Install shut-off and thermostatic valves, screw in the Mayevsky tap.
3. According to the installation diagram, mark the attachment points in relation to the window sill.
4. Fasten the brackets in the marked places and hang aluminum radiators on them.
5. Connect them to the heating system and test.

This type of battery can be used in both single-pipe and two-pipe connection schemes.

Bimetallic radiators are by far the most expensive on the market, but also the most in demand.

This is due to the fact that they are based on 2 types of metals - aluminum on the outside, which allows you to maintain a high degree of heat transfer and steel inside, which is not affected by the quality of the coolant, which protects the elements from corrosion.

The installation of this type of radiators is no different from the rest, the only thing to consider is their compatibility with pipes. If they are metal, then there will be no problems, while metal-plastic ones are not always suitable.

When it is necessary to create warmth and comfort, the question of how much it costs to install a heating radiator in an apartment is not so significant. In general, taking into account the purchase of new elements, the dismantling of old ones and the connection to the system, this pleasure is not cheap. You can save money by doing all the work yourself.

Based on the above, we can conclude: you can change the batteries in the apartment yourself, if you comply with all the norms of SNiP, select the appropriate quality elements of the new design and follow the instructions for their installation.