Self-installation of a fence. What to make a fence cheaply and beautifully: materials, prices, photos How to build a fence correctly

Often, a fence for a summer cottage is erected temporarily, for the subsequent construction of a more solid structure. And often there is simply not enough money for a solid fence, so we are looking for the cheapest fence for a summer residence as an option.

To make the fence cost quite inexpensively, we will build it with our own hands. Before installing the type of fence you have chosen, be sure to take an interest in the technology of its installation and consult with a specialist.

Cheap fence for giving, options

The price of the fence is affected by the size of the structure and the material from which it will be made. Accordingly, a high fence is more expensive than a low one, and a solid fence is more expensive than a transparent one. A structure that is attached to dug-in or concreted pillars will turn out to be cheaper than a fence mounted on a strip foundation.

Wooden picket fence - the most budget option

From such an inexpensive material, you can make a completely beautiful and original fence for a summer residence. An example of this is a photo of finished fences.

This is a very popular fence material. The picket fence is a plank of wood, 18 to 22 mm thick and 7 to 14 cm wide.

The height of the picket fence can be from 1.2 to 4 meters. To fasten this material, horizontal girders are used, fixed on oak, metal or concrete posts.

The approximate price of a picket fence is 700 rubles/sq.m. The final cost of the fence largely depends on the chosen installation option. For example, installing a picket fence in a checkerboard pattern or a herringbone pattern increases the price of the structure by 15-20%. The strip foundation, instead of simply driving the posts into the ground, adds 20-25% to the cost.

Fences made of thin wicker boards and a blockhouse are more expensive (from 1000 rubles / sq.m). A fence made of wicker boards attracts attention with an original look, and a blockhouse fence wins the hearts of summer residents with the quality factor of a wooden log house.

The type of fence "Ranch" came to us from the Wild West. For its construction, wide horizontal boards or beams are used, which are attached to low wooden poles. The disadvantage of such a fence is that it does not protect the site from the entry of unauthorized persons and even small animals. It is quite understandable, since this fence was created for a vast pasture area. But installing it does not take much time. And in terms of the cost of materials and work, such a fence is comparable to the price of a picket fence.

Wattle fence for a suburban area

Fans like this fence made of hazel or willow branches rustic style. It is original, strong enough and durable. With a strong desire, the technique of weaving branches can be mastered with your own hands in a matter of hours. If you have no time to engage in manual creativity, then you will have to pay from 500 rubles per 1 square meter for the manufacture and installation of wattle.

Anyone who is interested in building a cheap fence for a summer residence, we advise you to pay attention to an unedged board. Freeing it from the bark, sanding and varnishing, you can get a beautiful fence for a summer cottage at the lowest price (about 550 rubles / sq.m.).

Regarding the durability of wooden fences… The service life of autoclaved wood increases to 30 years. The service life of an ordinary, painted board does not exceed 15 years.

Fence for giving from a chain-link grid

The cheapest fence can be built from a chain-link mesh. It is issued in different options height (1.0-3.0 meters), length 10-18 meters and cell size 20-100 mm. To protect the wire from corrosion, galvanizing and polymer coating are used.

You can put up such a fence by rolling the mesh and fixing it to metal or concrete pillars. The second option is the manufacture of mesh sections, that is, frames from corners or pipes and their installation on poles.

The service life of mesh fences reaches 30 years. Such fences do not obscure the site and at the same time are reliable, as they create a serious barrier to uninvited guests.

The average price of 1 square meter of a turnkey chain-link fence is 180-240 rubles.

Fence for giving from eurostudent

The popularity of wooden picket fences prompted stamped metal manufacturers to create something similar. The result is a very aesthetic and durable material.

In terms of service life, wood cannot be compared with it. In addition, the fence made of eurostudent does not require periodic painting and antiseptics. The protective polymer film, which is used to cover galvanized steel, retains its color and integrity for 25-30 years.

Installation of a fence made of eurostudent, taking into account the price of materials and work, is from 800 rubles per 1 sq.m.

Country fence made of corrugated board

Today it is the leader of country fence construction. This is a dumb fence. His affordable price allows any summer resident to use it to protect their site. No one can get through this fence. alive soul. Installation of a fence from a professional flooring is simple, and therefore inexpensive. Added to this is a huge selection. colors and textured profile sheet.

• Use corrugated board with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It is not much more expensive than 0.4 mm thick flooring, but it will not be covered with dents and will not lose its attractiveness.
• The pitch of the supports should be no more than 2-2.5 meters, ideally 1.5 meters. And if we take the distance between the supports at 3 m, then under the influence of wind loads, the fence canvas will begin to bend and may lose its original appearance.
• Dig in the support pipes to a depth of at least 1.5 meters and be sure to concrete them.
• The fence posts must be made of a pipe 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm.
• Take corrugated board with double-sided, polymer coated, since galvanized flooring (without painting), after two years, becomes stained, loses its luster and may begin to corrode.

Fence for giving from slate

For the installation of such a deaf fence, both flat and wavy asbestos-cement slate are used. The first is stronger because it has a greater thickness.

The installation of a large format flat slate (1.5 x 3 meters) is faster than the installation of a smaller wavy one (1.75 x 1.125 m). They put the slate on steel profile runs, welded or bolted to metal posts.

The slate fence has high strength, as well as heat and frost resistance. It is more durable than wood and is not afraid of corrosion like metal. However, this material has a significant drawback - it is fragile and nondescript in appearance. And if nothing can be done about the first minus, then the second can be easily corrected - paint the slate.

Bottom line: the cheapest fence for a summer residence is a chain-link fence (200 rubles / sq.m.), the second place in price is fences made of welded mesh, wooden picket fence and unedged boards(450-600 rubles / sq.m.), we give the third place in our rating to fences made of corrugated board, slate, blockhouse and edged board(700-1000 rubles/sq.m.).

fence posts

During the construction of the fence, much attention is paid to the installation of pillars - the supporting part of the fence. And the more reliably they are installed, the stronger the fence will be, which means it will last longer.

Installation of fence posts

During construction, 3 methods of installing support pillars are used.

• Direct driving into the ground
• Partial concreting. It is carried out in two ways: pouring a concrete collar, or filling a well below the soil freezing line.
• Full concrete pouring of the underground part of the rack, including the strip foundation

Which method to choose depends on the quality of the soil on the site, its saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. Also, the choice of installation option is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. If you decide to install a solid fence, then it must withstand the wind well, the load from which often exceeds the weight of the fence.

Direct driving of posts into the ground speeds up and reduces the cost of building a fence, but it also has many disadvantages.

• If the ground is soft or loose, then the rack may loosen over time under the influence of the wind, since the fences have a large windage (if they are made of corrugated board, polycarbonate, boards).
• If the height of the pole is planned to be higher than 2 meters, even from a chain-link mesh, then this method of installing the poles will also not work - any strong wind will also shake the structure.
• If your site has clayey moist soil that swells at low temperatures, then the supports will crawl out of the soil by 10 centimeters already in the first winter.

That is, fence posts simply driven into the ground cannot carry a large mass load. Such an installation is suitable only for low fences with low windage. Or if there is rocky hard ground on the site.

concreting a little more complicated and costly than the first method of attaching fence supports. And yes, it will take more time. Only the hardening of concrete will take 3 weeks. But this method is more reliable, since concrete pillars will last 30-50 years without tilting. Moreover, strengthening with a concrete mixture is suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones.

Fence brick posts

A brick support without a reliable connection with the foundation, even despite its solid weight, will not last long. A strong wind load, acting on solid sections of the fence, inevitably leads to the overturning of a column that is not fixed in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal ground movements. Falling and rising a couple of centimeters up and down during the year, the foundation must work in conjunction with the posts and sections of the fence.

The optimal design of the foundation with brick pillars, designed for a corrugated fence, is clearly illustrated by the diagram in the photo.

You can see that a steel rod made of a square pipe or a reinforcing cage is installed in the brick posts. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins are attached to them under a profiled sheet or picket fence.

Foundation type - strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and pits with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled at the places where the pillars are installed. First, concrete is poured into wells with pillar racks installed in them. After that, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.

The main parameters of the foundation (laying depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating the strength and stability.

For the installation of brick pillars for the fence, we used the following dimensions

• trench depth - 20-30 cm;
• the depth of the well for the installation of metal racks of brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
• the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation, located above the surface of the earth) - 40-60 cm;
• foundation width - 20-35 cm;
• the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
• pillar height from 150 to 180 cm ( transverse section masonry 38x38 cm).

In wet soils, it is necessary to drill holes for racks below the freezing depth so that frost heaving forces do not deform the fence.

In weak and unstable soils, in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting it, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will preserve the integrity of the foundation and perceive the loads that occur in concrete during subsidence of the soil.

The laying of brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can get to work.

Perfectly even seams are a guarantee of an excellent appearance of brick columns. Experienced masons use pieces of a square bar to simplify the work, which serves as a seam template.

In the photo, a brick pillar with a section of 38 x 38 cm. Inside, two rebar. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.

For fences two or more meters high, the size of the column section is increased to 51 x 63 cm or 64 x 77 cm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase.

metal fence posts

Steel supports are well suited for fences made of corrugated board, wood, plastic, metal mesh, welded and forged fences. These are one of the most affordable and durable solutions for installing any fence.

Iron poles are different types: made of round and profile pipes, screw. They also differ in height, metal thickness and diameter. It is possible to make such supports for the fence from new materials, as well as from used ones.

The diameter of a column from an ordinary pipe is usually 57, 76, 89 mm. The wall thickness can be any, but the thicker, the longer its service life.

For difficult soils, screw metal piles are used. At the bottom they have a cutting blade that allows you to insert the pipe into the soil quickly, without the use of complex equipment. With the help of this blade, the pipe is firmly held in the ground.

Distance between fence posts

When choosing metal poles, take into account our experience:

• pr fence height 2-2.5 meters, take the section profile pipe 60 x 40 mm, products sized 40 x 40 mm are suitable for 1.5 hedges,
• the optimal diameter of the round pipe is 57 mm,
• the maximum size of the corners of the channels installed one by one, take equal to 90 and 160 mm, respectively,
• the interval between the posts should be within 2-3 meters. A smaller distance is inexpedient from the point of view of economy, but a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure.

Our calculation of the pitch of the pillars with a section length of 13.4 meters and a fence height of 1.5 meters

• Divide this distance into 4 sections, you get a length of 3.23 meters. With such an interval, the fence can be built from korpich or chain-link mesh on metal poles. It is undesirable to install a profiled sheet or other solid material, as the racks will be loosened by the wind.
• If divided into 5 sections, you get a step of 2.56 meters. This interval is suitable for most designs.
• A breakdown into 6 spans will give a distance between the pillars of 2.12 meters. You will get a reliable structure, but the price of the fence will increase. Although in this case you can save money if you take poles with a smaller section.

Optimal spacing between posts solid fence 2 meters high is equal to 2.5 meters. This is an ideal option in terms of price / quality ratio when it comes to popular fences made of corrugated board on metal supports.

Often, among the questions about country fences, a fence between cottages is considered. Neighbors in the plots find out what kind of fence they can fence off so that it does not contradict the rules. How high can a fence be placed and what should it be made of. Best Option in this case, the use of mesh for fencing. Or make a decorative living fence out of climbing plants. The main thing is not to forget that there should not be a deep shadow from the fence, which naturally the neighbors in the dacha will not like, since horticultural crops will grow poorly in this place.

It is worth protecting your territory, if not from the encroachments of intruders, then at least from the scattering of your own living creatures around the village. And to minimize costs, you can build a fence with your own hands.

The cheapness of improvised materials is very conditional. For example, the owner of a tire shop does not know what to do with tires, and his own sawmill is a constant supplier of sawdust and lumber. But for an ordinary resident, the search and collection of a large amount of such waste will become a problem. If the difficulties do not frighten, and the neighbors will gladly chip in a couple of hundred bottles, their fence will learn almost free.

Firewood

A few cubic meters of firewood is not only heating for the whole winter, but also an excellent material for a fence! Almost any tree is suitable, except for birch, which rots in a couple of years. For example, oak becomes stronger from exposure to moisture, and conifers practically do not rot.

To build a wall of logs, special skills are not needed:

The only drawback of such buildings is their fragility, since the tree is still exposed to moisture and begins to rot over time.

bottles

Plastic and glass bottles are a great way not only to save on building a fence, but also to recycle household waste. The device of such a barrier is extremely simple:

In addition, plastic, when heated, can evaporate harmful substances therefore it is not advisable to expose it to direct sunlight. But due to the materials used, the glass container fence will last for more than a dozen years, having managed to get bored with several generations of residents.

Tires

Tires are used everywhere - as flower beds, playgrounds and even foundations. So why not make them also a fence? For this, almost nothing is required:

The only drawback of a tire fence is that when heated, it will smell rather unpleasantly of rubber. Therefore, it is recommended to locate it far from residential premises and places of rest.

Reliable and simple fences

Of course, the usual fences are much easier to implement. After all, carrying tires is a difficult task, the hand will get tired very quickly. But to stretch the grid between the pillars or put together a wooden fence - what could be easier?

From the grid

The most common type of fence is chain-link. Gardens, large plots and even yards are fenced with it. If the appearance does not cause aesthetic delight, you can use more modern version- welded mesh. Its installation is also simple, but allows you to make the fence more accurate.

To build a mesh fence you will need:

You can cope with the work alone, but it is better to get an assistant:

1. The area for the future fence is marked. To do this, reinforcement is driven in in the corners, between which a string is stretched.
2. The lower part of the pillars (150-160 cm) is smeared with two layers of enamel against rust.
3. First, corner posts are installed. A well is drilled with a depth of about 1 m and a pipe is immediately hammered into it with a sledgehammer for another 30 cm. After that, the pillar is immediately covered with sand and rubble, spilled with water and carefully rammed.



4. Pillar pitch - up to 3 m.
5. Since the mesh fence is light and does not have a high windage, it is better not to concrete the pillars buried above the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, the concrete will “squeeze out” along with the post and the fence will begin to stagger after the first winter.
6. If it is necessary to make reliable supports, wells are drilled 1.5 m deep, a sand and gravel cushion is poured onto the bottom, formwork is made of roofing material, a pipe is clogged and poured with concrete.
7. After all the posts are installed, the deformed tops are cut off and the mesh is stretched. It can be attached to poles using welded hooks, wire or mounting screed.



8. If the mesh is installed with reinforcement broach, then after it is fixed on the poles, a steel bar is threaded through the cells, which is welded to the pipes. This will increase the strength of the fence and prevent the mesh from sagging.





9. Pillars and corners are treated with enamel against rust and painted. To simplify the work, it is better to use a paint sprayer - with a brush it will take longer and less economically.

And to make the fence look interesting and unusual, it can be decorated with wire weaving. It's so nice to go out into the courtyard, fenced with a real work of art!

From corrugated board

Decking is a durable and relatively inexpensive material. You can choose a color coating of almost any color, and even a novice builder can handle the installation:

1. For corrugated board, you will need buried below the freezing of the soil and concreted pillars. On heaving soil, to prevent subsidence of the pillars, it is better to expand the supports according to the type of TISE foundation.



2. As with the construction of a mesh fence, before deepening the pillars, the pipes must be treated with a rust primer.





3. When the foundation is completely frozen, transverse logs are welded to the pillars - profiled pipes 4x2 cm. They should be located 4 cm from the upper and lower edges of the corrugated sheet. For fences up to 170 cm high, two crossbars are enough, but if the fence is higher, you need to make a third one in the middle.
4. All metal parts are treated with a primer - after installing the corrugated board, this is problematic.
5. Profiled sheets are attached to the lags with metal screws with an overlap into a wave.

If you overlay the racks with bricks, the fence will look more presentable. To do this, use 4 bricks laid in a circle in a run. Each row of bricks is checked by level in two planes so that the pillars do not turn out to be oblique. A sand-cement mixture is poured inside around the pipe.

At the same time, metal racks are lined with bricks along with welded logs. This is much more reliable than trying to fix the leagues on facing brick after completion of laying.
You can ennoble the fence from the inside with tall living plants. In the meantime, the thuja are growing, you can stretch the photo grid.

Its service life is 3-4 years, after which it will begin to fade. But during this time, the planted bushes and trees will have time to rise.

from wood

Wooden fences are traditional for the countryside. After all, you can find construction material at an extremely attractive cost, but if you look well at sawmills, illiquid assets with self-delivery will cost almost nothing.

To build a wooden fence you will need:

• manual circular saw;
• screwdriver and screws or hammer and nails;
• grinder or grinding wheel and grinder;
• spray gun;
• gas drill or shovel.

Installation of a wooden fence attracts with its simplicity:

For such a fence, the selection of boards is important - they must be free of flaws and cracks. A planed board looks much neater, but any 2 cm thick is suitable.

The only drawback of wood is its short lifespan. On the other hand, repairing individual sections of such a fence is much easier!

original fences

It is better for a novice builder to try his hand at simple objects. But for those who have already eaten a dog on the construction of fences, there are several non-standard options that will surprise your neighbors and please your loved ones!

Stone

Masonry, despite its external simplicity, is much more difficult to perform than brick. Dry stone masonry will be a real challenge for masons. To do this, two trapeziums are installed along the edges of the future wall, between which a string is stretched - this will be a guide during masonry.

The trapezoidal shape of the fence is needed so that the stones do not begin to crumble, because they are held only by their own weight. The main difficulty in such construction is to choose the right stones so that the rows do not deviate from the horizontal.

Gabion fences are becoming more and more popular. For their device, you will need a finished structure installed on compacted soil with concreted supports - the weight of the fence is decent. And so that in the process of filling the cage with stones the structure does not burst, after each row the mesh is fastened with special hooks.

live

And if the fact that it will take more than one year to grow a meter-long boxwood fence does not scare you, you can begin to implement this idea.

First of all, you need to decide on the height of the desired fence:

• high - thuja, maple, juniper, irga will do;
• medium - rowan, euonymus, barberry are used;
• low - you can plant boxwood, cinquefoil, yew.

Deciduous, fast-growing shrubs are often chosen for tall hedges. After all, you want to protect yourself from prying eyes as quickly as possible, and not after ten years. But in the future, you will have to cut such a wall very often, otherwise you can be hidden behind a five-meter fence. Plus, deciduous hedges - leaves that have flown around in autumn allow you to get maximum light from the meager winter sun.

You should not believe the photos, which show one and a half meter boxwood hedges - it took more than two decades to form them. You can buy already grown bushes, but the cost of such a fence will turn out to be far from democratic.

Wicker

Wattle is a traditional fence, undeservedly forgotten today. Artificial rattan constructions, which cost a lot of money, are becoming more and more popular.

But after all, it is very simple to build it with your own hands:

A house fenced with such a wattle fence will become a cozy family nest.

Forged

Forged fences attract attention with their delicacy and airiness. This is a great option for small plot allowing you to visually expand the space.

Of course, one cannot do without a good farrier. But it’s very easy to install ready-made spans:

• the foundation is poured with pillars, the distance between which is equal to the finished spans;
• when the concrete has hardened, forged elements are welded to the pillars;
• hinges for the gate and gate are welded;
• the fence is primed and painted.

A very simple and inexpensive version of a fence device for fencing a site is shown in detail and accessible in the video:

People have been building fences for a very long time. In ancient times, they protected a person from predators, served as a barrier from enemies. Currently, fences allow you to mark the boundaries of your possessions, help to give the site a shape, protect from unnecessary looks.

In order for the fence to last as long as possible, it is necessary to prepare a high-quality foundation with a depth of at least 30 cm.

You can build a fence in the country, even without the special skills and abilities of a builder.

Depending on building skills, design ideas and financial capabilities, there are several options for how to make a fence in the country with your own hands.

Most often, cottage owners build fences from corrugated board, natural stone, metal mesh, concrete panels and wood. The main role in this is played by the desire to make a fence with your own hands at the same time beautiful and reliable. Therefore, very often you can find fences that are made using natural materials made in original style. Fences using living plants (hedges) are very popular.

Thinking about how to build a fence with your own hands, you need to try to choose the option that will best harmonize with the design of the site and the house, which will create an atmosphere of unity with nature. For example, if there is a brick in the design of the house, then a fence containing brickwork will create a harmonious architectural ensemble. How to make a fence for a summer residence, and will be discussed. Having considered the proposed options, you can easily determine for yourself which fence to make on your site.

Types of fences for a summer cottage

1. A wooden fence for a summer residence does not require large material investments, it allows you to experiment with shape and color, the material for such a fence is easy to get. Disadvantages of a wooden fence: the need for regular maintenance, the fragility of the material.
2. A brick fence for a summer residence will be strong, durable, will not require additional care, and will allow you to experiment with shape and color. Disadvantages - high labor intensity during construction (it will require the creation of a strip foundation) and the high cost of the material.
3. The fence from a professional flooring strong, durable, does not demand additional leaving. Since the corrugated board has a low cost, the construction of such a fence will not require large material costs. In addition, a fence made of corrugated board will create additional sound insulation. Easy to install even for a novice construction work. However, such a fence requires the creation of a strip or pillar foundation, which increases the complexity of the process.
4. A country fence made of chain-link mesh or metal mesh is quite strong and durable, does not require additional maintenance, is transparent (does not create shadows), and has a low cost. However, transparency in some cases can also serve as a disadvantage - such a fence will not hide from prying eyes.
5. A PVC fence will be durable, allow you to experiment with shape, is inexpensive and does not require additional maintenance, it is not difficult to install it yourself, but this material is difficult to find.
6. The hedge has a very attractive appearance, allows you to create a natural and harmonious fence, experiment with design. However, such a fence is short-lived, requires constant care, and serves only as a decorative fence. In addition, professionally hedge will be very expensive.
7. The wattle fence at their summer cottage will have a very harmonious, natural and beautiful view, does not require large material investments (wattle can be made from natural material - willow or hazel), will allow you to recreate many design solutions. The disadvantages of that fence are fragility and only a decorative function.

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Construction of the foundation for the fence

In order for the fence to exist for more than a dozen years, it is necessary to approach the construction thoroughly. A properly laid foundation will serve as a guarantee of the strength and reliability of the fence. Used foundations for the fence: pole and tape. They have the same fundamental differences as in the construction of the foundation for the house. The strip foundation is poured under heavy structures (for example, when building a brick fence), on heaving soils, if necessary, create a completely fenced, impenetrable area when it is necessary to exclude the penetration of wild animals. The strip foundation for the fence is the most reliable and durable.

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Technology for the manufacture of a strip foundation for a fence

1. They dig a trench 30-80 cm deep (if desired, for reliability, you can make a depth of up to 1.5 m).
2. They make a sand cushion, which is then abundantly soaked with water.
3. Knit armature.
4. From boards or plywood, formwork is erected for the fence in such a way that the canvas of the future fence is located above the ground at a height of about 40 cm.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete mortar.

The pillar foundation will be more economical, it is perfect for light building envelopes. A properly thought out and well-made fence on a pillar foundation will last no less time than on a strip foundation. When building wooden fences on a pillar foundation, it is necessary to process all the wooden parts special formulations that will prevent decay.

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The technology of erecting a pillar foundation for a fence

1. With the help of a construction drill or a shovel, pits are dug under the pillars with a depth of 100-150 cm with a diameter 15-20 cm larger than the diameter of the pillars. The required distance between the pillars is 2-3 m. Its choice depends on the desired span width.
2. They make a sand cushion - a layer of sand 20 cm thick is poured into the pits and watered abundantly.
3. Pillars are installed, leveled, after which the pits are poured with concrete. Thus, the pillars are obtained - the basis for the fence. After that, spans can be attached to the pillars (for example, chain-link mesh structures).

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How to make a fence with your own hands from corrugated board

The professional flooring is the most optimum and widespread material for construction of protections. Therefore, the technology of its installation should be considered a little more in detail. Before you start building a fence with your own hands from corrugated board, you need to accurate calculations the entire perimeter of the fence. The location of the fence is preliminarily marked, the place for the gate and the gate is determined, the places for installing the pillars are calculated (when creating the pillar foundation). After that, the height of the fence, the height of the gate and the gate are determined. Based on these calculations, you can easily determine how much material you need.

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Tools and materials needed to make a corrugated fence

1. Roulette, building level.
2. Shovel (for digging trenches or holes under the foundation).
3. Sand.
4. Lake, water.
5. Concrete solution.
6. Pipes with a diameter of 80-90 mm.
7. Welding machine.
8. Steel profile.
9. Primer.
10. Sheets of corrugated board.
11. Self-tapping screws for metal.
12. Protective gloves.

Pipes with a diameter of at least 80-90 mm should be used as support pillars. The side of the post that will be directed upwards is welded (this will prevent moisture from entering the pipe). One third of the post should be buried in the ground. After about 3 days, when the foundation hardens, a transverse steel profile is installed, to which the corrugated board for the fence will be attached.

A profiled pipe with a section of 40x25 mm can be used as a profile. How many pipes are needed can be determined based on the height of the fence. With a height of up to 1.7 m, 2 parallel pipes fixed at a distance of 30-40 cm will suffice. With a fence height of 1.7 to 2 m, the pipes must be laid in 3 rows.

The profile and support posts are fixed by electric welding. After mounting the support poles and the steel profile, it is necessary to coat them with a primer to protect them from corrosion. The final stage is the fastening of corrugated board sheets to the frame. Usually this material is fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 500 mm from each other. Adjacent sheets must be overlapped with each other.

When building a fence from corrugated board, you need to wear gloves, as the material has sharp edges that can severely injure the skin. If scratches appeared on the corrugated board during installation, they can be easily hidden using a can of paint. To give such a fence a more aesthetic appearance, the supporting pillars are covered with brick or stone cladding.

Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the site design ensemble. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle down. But building a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it is best to start it with a fascinating acquaintance with a variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, after making a choice it will not be difficult at all.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - euro fence, metal, corrugated board, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fences will always be high.

The reason for this is the tree's list of virtues, which includes:

• environmental friendliness;
• unique decorative qualities;
• a wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
• ease of processing;
• ease of installation;
• simple replacement structural elements fence during operation;
• low cost.

Wood - environmentally friendly natural material, which is perfectly combined with other building materials and is able to harmoniously fit into any decision on the design of the fenced area. For the construction of a wooden fence, one, maximum two pairs of working hands is enough and no special knowledge, skills and tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as design and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with the advantages, the tree has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

1. Fire hazard.
2. Low resistance to climatic factors.
3. Attractiveness to pests.
4. susceptibility to decay.
5. Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, the wood used in construction must be treated with flame retardant, antiseptic and pest repellents. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden changes in temperature. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice, to increase the service life of wooden fences, various methods. So, in order to prevent soaking and rotting of the support poles (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence, their upper ends are closed with plastic or other plugs. suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence canvas is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse logs and their attachment points to the supports.

Variety, types

So, the construction of the fence can be performed in order to:

• designation of the boundaries of the territory;
• ensuring privacy (protection of what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
• protection against unauthorized entry;
• reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
• fencing of potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
• decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

1. Deaf.
2. Trellised (with gaps).
3. Combined.

When choosing the type of fence construction, one should not forget about its design. The fence should fit into the existing landscape and be in harmony with the design of the objects located in the fenced area.

The most widely used options are: design wooden fences:

• "classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports installed in bottles or on concrete, crossbars made of wooden beam and sheathing from standard edged boards.

• fence (vertical or horizontal);

As a sheathing for such a fence, a picket fence is used - a thin plank with a straight or beveled upper end. Sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.

• lattice;

The sheathing of the lattice fence is equal-wide strips (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 °. Laths are mounted with a gap or close at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence canvas.

• "chess" (deaf or with clearance);

A complicated version of the picket fence with a deaf or blown staggered arrangement of the skin on both sides of the fence. The elements of the staggered cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.

• ladder (herringbone);

The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlapped at a certain angle along longitudinal axis(vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is provided with the help of calibrated gaskets.

• network;

The canvas of a wicker fence is thin strips or branches of a vine, braiding the vertical or horizontal edges of the supporting frame. Braid is quite difficult to manufacture, but provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

• palisade;

The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with pointed ends. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break, besides, they provide complete privacy of the territory inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

• log paving;

The log fence is mounted from tightly fitting horizontally located logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving is a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the perimeter of the fence from prying eyes and ears.

• "ranch";

An open-type fencing, the canvas of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark the boundaries of a private area or protect against the entry of large animals, although they can also serve as decorative functions.

• "cross".

The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or tape concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal sheathing elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the fence in the style of "cross" has a horizontal sheathing, which is attached to vertical crossbars resting on supporting pillars and a concrete foundation.

This is not the whole classification. So, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:

• solid palisade;
• palisade with gaps;
• cat or dog ears;
• private;
• peak;
• concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations are often used various types structures, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decorating a summer house or a private house

Wooden fence along the road Deaf wooden fence with the functions of protection and ensuring the privacy of the territory Wooden fence with combined cladding Decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical fence A solid canvas of a fence from a horizontal picket fence Combined style horizontal log fence Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex canvas of a wooden fence Fence in the style of "cross" with brick pillars Fence in the style of "ranch" for the protection of the suburban area Wooden fence with a horizontal log crate Wooden fence in the style of "solid palisade" Wooden fence with woven fabric construction

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with the design. To solve this problem, you will need cadastral plan fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If there is no plan at hand, the measurements will have to be performed independently.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The data obtained should be transferred to a pre-drawn diagram of the site on a scale. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the site for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. First of all, by driving a peg into the ground, you need to set the corner marks.

The next step is to determine the location of the gate and the entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. The standard width of the gate is 1–1.5 m, and the size of the gate is taken in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the site owner.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on the foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the supporting posts or foundation.

At the end of the design survey, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate errors made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after the development of the main plan is the selection and calculation of materials for the construction of the fence. For this you need:

• decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
• accept the method of mounting supports;
• calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and the number of transverse logs);
• determine the material from which the skin will be made;
• calculate the volume of sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
• determine the method of installing transverse logs and cladding, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for the support pillars is not difficult: the most preferred option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm (for corner supports) and 50 * 50 (for intermediate columns). Proper preparation for operation and competent installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and ground water lie at great depths (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, as a transverse log for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a web height of 1.8 m, it is advisable to use wooden bars with a cross section of at least 40 * 40 mm.

Calculation

When designing, a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences should be taken into account. Strict observance of these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

1. The size of the section should not exceed 2.5 m in order to avoid sagging of the transverse logs under the weight of the skin.
2. Support posts are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for mounting supports, it is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, as well as the soil composition that affects the behavior of the soil during the change of seasons.
3. To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of the gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
4. The bottom line of the fence canvas should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
5. Support posts should be at least 10 cm higher than the fence canvas.

Good to know: If there are irregularities or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of the fence parameters is carried out in several stages:

• Let's assume that the plot has the shape of a trapezoid with bases 29 and 40 m long and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:

P \u003d 29 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 114 m;

• If the gate and the gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and the entrance:

l 1 \u003d 29 - (1.5 + 2.5) \u003d 25 m;

• In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L \u003d 25 + 40 + 20 + 25 \u003d 110 m;

• Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections \u003d L / l sections \u003d 110 / 2.5 \u003d 44;

• Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of supporting pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;

Please note: Corner supports and posts on the sides of the gate and wicket must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

• Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports \u003d 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 \u003d 2.85 m;

• The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse lags of the fence. If we take the height of the latter equal to 1.8 m, 2 crossbars will be needed for each of the sections. Thus, the total number of lags will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations, we get the exact number of structural elements of the fence:

• 39 intermediate supports;
• 6 corner supports;
• 88 transverse logs.

On this, the main calculations within the framework of the fencing project can be considered completed. To start the practical implementation of the project, it remains to choose the skin material and calculate its volume.

What boards to choose for sheathing?

The choice of fence sheathing depends on the style of the latter, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, conifers are chosen for outdoor fences with a predominantly protective function - pine, spruce or cedar.

If the priority in designing the appearance of the fence was given to its decorative qualities, hardwoods - oak, beech, ash and birch are much better suited for sheathing. The strength indicators of such a fence will be low, but with proper processing it will look very expressive.

Cedar belongs to expensive and rare conifers. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are not common - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees, although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, are poorly resistant to moisture, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most affordable and cheapest wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is an excellent protection against dampness, mold and decay, and has an optimal humidity for outdoor use (15-20% when dried properly). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotty material, spruce species are certainly in the lead: in pine, knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce - almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species show an increased tendency to crack. This spruce and pine wood is due to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material must be bought with some margin, since part of it will inevitably go to waste.

Fence sheathing calculation

The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the canvas of the fence under construction. This value is calculated as follows:

1. First you need to take the amount of clearance between the fences. Suppose it will be equal to 4 cm.
2. We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
3. The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, 16 units could go to the section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
4. We check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13 * 15 \u003d 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account the fact that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be equal to: (13 + 1) * 4 \u003d 52 cm. Together it will come out: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the value of the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
5. We calculate the number of boards required for sheathing the entire fence (without the gate leaf and wicket): 13 * 44 \u003d 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for fence sheathing. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the sheathing volume will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 \u003d 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

construction tool

Preparation for the construction of a wooden fence includes the collection of tools that will greatly simplify and greatly speed up the work. This list should include:

• jigsaw;
• circular saw with discs for metal;
• welding machine;
• wood saw;
• electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
• shovel and crowbar;
• garden earth drill;
• hammer and pliers;
• a set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
• electric planer;
• emery on wood;
• brushes for processing wood with a protective compound and paint;
• building level and plumb;
• measuring cord (twine);
• construction tape.

Please note: In the process of building a fence, you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, galvanized nails can be used, but self-tapping screws or bolted connections are much more durable. It is noteworthy that for the latter, you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse lags in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step by step instructions

The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of supporting pillars.
2. Installation of crossbars.
3. Frame sheathing.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of supporting fence posts using the backfilling method. Consider how this is done using the example of one of the supports:

1. By using garden drill, scrap and shovels in one of the corners of the site we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep and 40–50 cm in diameter.
2. At the bottom of the pit we lay and carefully tamp a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick.
3. Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a profile pipe of square section, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both sleeves of the fence.
4. At a height of 20–25 cm, at the bottom of the pit, we pour a mixture of crushed stone with sand and carefully tamp it down.
5. We check the vertical of the support and the parallelism of its faces to the sleeves of the fence.
6. We fall asleep the next portion of the pillow of sand and gravel, tamp it down and again check the position of the support. And so to the very top of the pit.

Good to know: The sand-stone pillow will lie more densely during the backfilling process if it is abundantly moistened with water, while not forgetting to add sand.

Installation of transverse logs

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made of a metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, ready-made brackets can simply be bought at the store.

Installing the lag is done as follows:

Please note: The distance between the lags can be reduced if necessary, but this will adversely affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the web. The support should be at least 5-10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be at least 10-15 cm from the soil line.

Frame sheathing

Before proceeding with the installation of fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the fence is mounted on the logs before the latter are installed on the supports:

1. First of all, you need to set the crossbars at the right distance from each other, observing a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared coasters from improvised materials.
2. It does not hurt to make templates in advance, with which it is convenient to lay out the gaps between the boards.
3. The lower (or upper) edge of the canvas also does not hurt to put under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, set at the desired distance from the mounted one.
4. Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount the fence boards on the transverse logs. In this case, care must be taken not to cause deflection or any other stress in the web structure.
5. We raise the finished canvas of the fence and fix it with bolts on the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10–15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for a successful landing of the structure on the bolts.
6. If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were set exactly, their ends will easily fit on the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and tension is also created in the web structure due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the skin.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

Wooden fence is operated outdoors all year round. This means that all structural elements need to be reliable protection from moisture, temperature fluctuations, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: The metal elements of the fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted joints, must be primed and coated with paint before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the supporting pillars installed in the ground need additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first, to isolate the internal space of the profile pipe, it is necessary to weld plugs on its lower and upper ends.

In addition to moisture, harmful microorganisms and pests, ultraviolet radiation leads to a decrease in the life of a wooden fence. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their external attractiveness, but also their bearing capacity. To exclude premature wear of the structure, when applying the impregnation, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners.

The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on a deep penetration primer. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch in protecting the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence design.

The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout the entire period of operation. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of how to design a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones being the aesthetic preferences of the site owner and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even reinforced with forging, giving it an original color by experimenting with impregnations and top coat, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.

Video: We build a wooden fence on our own

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to carefully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be operated. With careful attention to the basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the main material, self-construction of the fence will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.

If it's time to change the fence of the site, or if there is a need to enclose a new territory, then the question immediately arises of how to install a fence with your own hands, without resorting to the help of various construction companies. This is especially true if the owner of the site is limited in funds.

Will it be possible to carry out this process on your own? It all depends on the type of fence and the material from which it is planned to build it. But it’s clear right away - in order to build a fence of a site made of brick, concrete or concrete slabs, it is necessary to do quite labor-intensive work, so at least one assistant will be needed.

What should be taken into account?

Knowing all the advantages and disadvantages of various types of fences, it will be possible to evaluate your strengths and decide what material to build a fence from.

When choosing the type of fence, you must definitely consider how the color and texture of the fence will fit into the design of its entire site, if it is decorated in the same style.

Another criterion to consider is the openness and closeness of the fence, i.e. it will be solid or have a through pattern.

If there is a desire to isolate oneself from the outside world so that outsiders, including neighbors, do not interfere with rest or work on the site, then it is better to install a solid fence.

The area open to the eyes of passers-by is suitable for those owners who want to show everyone what they have. beautiful house or wonderful flower gardens, as well as sociable people who cannot imagine their life in a space completely enclosed by a fence.

If the fence is being installed on a new site, and it is planned to build it from or concrete, then it would be nice to check how deep the groundwater runs underground. Otherwise, there is a risk, after a couple of years, to get subsidence and skew of the structure.

Another important point is the cost of materials. It must be calculated by knowing the prices in advance, deducing the total amount, another 15% is usually added to it. This is because, as a rule, it is impossible to foresee everything perfectly, and in the process of work, you will definitely have to buy any missing components.

So, first you need to familiarize yourself with the types of fences and the rules for their installation.

concrete fence

A concrete fence can be safely called the most practical and reliable building of all other types, but only if it is properly installed.

A concrete fence is not only “boring” gray walls

Such a fence has several types, since thanks to modern technologies and developments in last years fences began to be produced and installed, which in themselves are already decorative elements that adorn the territory of the site.

A variety of types, colors and textured patterns allows you to choose an option that will be perfectly combined in style with the already erected structure of the house.

There are a lot of positive qualities of reinforced concrete fences, so they are increasingly preferred to other fences. These benefits include:

• The durability and strength of the material in a properly installed design.
• Any finishing material, whether it be decorative plaster or decorative tiles, fits perfectly on a flat concrete surface.
• If a monolithic fence is being erected, then it can be raised to any height without gaps and joints.
• If a fence is chosen, consisting of separate narrow slabs, then its installation is carried out quite quickly - literally in one day the entire structure can be erected.
• Concrete construction is the most economical of all other capital fences.

There are, however, such fences, along with positive, and negative points:

Concrete structures are quite heavy, so they cannot be installed on loose or loose soils, or they will require special reinforcement during installation.

Installation concrete fence- much more expensive than lumber or corrugated fences.

When installing a fence consisting of separate sections, it is often impossible to do without special equipment for lifting and installing them, the call of which is also expensive.

If a monolithic concrete fence is being arranged, then a concrete mixer will definitely be required, since a very large amount of mortar will be required, which is simply unrealistic to make by hand.

For all, without exception, concrete fences, you need a reliable foundation.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the construction of a concrete fence is a rather troublesome and expensive undertaking, but such a structure will last for many decades without special care, so this choice can be considered very practical.

Foundation for concrete fence

Since you cannot do without a foundation for a concrete structure, you need to know what work will have to be done to arrange it.

A concrete fence is installed on, which is poured into next sequence:

• The first step is to mark the territory for further digging of the trench.

When marking, it is taken into account that the width of the foundation tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the thickness of the fence. The depth of the trench to be torn off should be 800 ÷ 1000 mm.

• Further, moistened sand is poured to the bottom of the trench, which must be carefully compacted. The layer of sand cushion should be 120 ÷ 150 mm in compacted form.
• A plastic film is covered on the sand, which will serve as protection for the foundation from the effects of ground moisture. The film should come out of the trench by 500 ÷ 700 mm, since further formwork will be erected along the pit to raise the foundation above the soil surface by 200 ÷ 400 mm.
• A layer of gravel is poured onto the film - 100 ÷ 150 mm is enough.

• A reinforcing structure is installed on the gravel, which will add strength to the foundation.
• After marking the distance between the fence posts, pipes or a reinforcing truss are welded to the reinforcement - this will serve as a support for the further construction of the pillars.

• Next, a wooden formwork is placed along the trench. Polyethylene film is left inside it and later brought out over the edges of the top boards. The film will not allow concrete to leak into the gaps between the boards, and thus the moisture will not evaporate too quickly, and the concrete mortar will evenly gain the desired strength.

• Then the trench is filled with concrete mortar, made from gravel-sand mixture and cement, in a ratio of 3:1.
• If the fence will enclose a large area, then concrete is best ordered ready-made, since kneading this yourself a large number of the solution is quite difficult, given that the foundation must be poured at once, completely from the bottom to the top of the formwork. Otherwise, unnecessary gaps may remain between the layers, and if water gets into them and if the temperature drops, the foundation may be damaged.
• The surface of the poured concrete is leveled and left to harden and harden.
• Typically, intersection posts are laid out of brick, but they can also be made of concrete. To do this, around the reinforcing structure or pipe, an appropriate formwork is built from boards, which is also filled with concrete.
• If the fence sections will consist of several prefabricated elements, then special ones are used for their installation, having side grooves, into which decorative plates are then inserted.

It should be noted that if this fence option is chosen, then you can arrange for it and, carefully marking the distance between the posts. Nevertheless, after their installation, the poles must be tied together with a curb. Its filling is carried out in the same way as with a strip foundation, it is also reinforced with reinforcement, but it is deepened by only 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Varieties of concrete fences

On the finished foundation can be installed different kinds concrete fences. So, concrete fences are divided into monolithic, block, prefabricated and typesetting types, as well as independent.

Stacked fences

Type-setting fences consist of several sections, which are installed in turn in the grooves of the posts already set vertically. Typically, fences of this type have several sections, the upper of which differs from the lower ones in that they are decorated with decorative elements in the form of balusters or relief patterns.

Decorative stacked concrete fence with an "openwork" top section

These fences are installed strip foundations, which will raise them above the soil to the desired height, or to columnar foundation with curbs installed between the posts.

prefabricated fence

A prefabricated fence consists of individual elements, from which sections of the same shape are assembled. The number of elements in each section can be different, usually from three to five - it depends on what height of the fence is needed. Sometimes they get sections of different colors or with different relief patterns - this to some extent helps to make the fences more picturesque and less boring.

The foundation for a prefabricated fence can be either tape or columnar.

block fences

This type of fence is laid out from concrete (foam concrete or aerated concrete) blocks, which have the shape of a large brick, and, accordingly, are laid according to the principle brickwork. However, very often decorative elements can be additionally used in the building, which are of the appropriate size, ideally fitting into the overall construction of the blocks.

Elements intended for the construction of columns, for example, are put on support pillars embedded in the foundation.

All elements are laid on cement mortar resulting in a solid construction.

Just like brick, block masonry requires special skill. It is not as easy as it seems to build a smooth wall of relatively small-sized elements. That's why , doing work, you need to keep the building level at hand and control the verticality of the fence along the plumb line.

Often such a fence of ordinary blocks will require decorative finishes plaster or tiling.

Such a fence will always cost more than a conventional reinforced concrete sectional fence, since in addition to the material itself, it is necessary to take into account the considerable cost of masonry work and final finishing.

Fencing from monolithic slabs

Monolithic slabs are easy to install in that the entire length of the fence can be installed on a prepared foundation in just one day. For the construction of pillars, elements that are designed for block type fences are often used. Can .

If ordinary smooth concrete slabs are used for fencing, then in order for the fence to acquire an aesthetic appearance, it is designed decorative plaster in combination with artificial or natural stone.

You can buy already decorated plates, but they will be much more expensive. In addition, they may be damaged during transport or unloading, and because of this, they will then have to be put in order.

self-fence

This type of fencing is most often used for temporary installation on the territory of various facilities under construction, since they do not require a foundation for them. Sections of such a fence are perfectly installed on a wide lower part. When the need for fencing is over, the sections are dismantled, loaded onto vehicles and transported to the next facility.

In the practice of individual construction, despite the ease of installation, such fences are usually not used.

brick fence

A brick fence has a very respectable appearance, and it looks especially harmonious if the house on the site is also built of brick.

The process of erecting such a fence requires a lot of experience in such work, since it may seem to an amateurish eye that bricklaying is a simple and affordable business for anyone. In fact, each master has his own secrets that allow you to make the fence neat and durable.

The foundation for such a fence is arranged in the same way as for a concrete fence, because in general the whole structure is quite massive.

Brick fences are completely enclosed, or the masonry can be combined with other elements, such as gratings. In the latter case, the entire site will be in plain sight, and the fence will only protect against the entry of unwanted guests into the territory, but will not close the territory from prying eyes.

Brick fencing has its advantages, as well as disadvantages that you need to know about before choosing this particular option.

Advantages brick fence:

1. Properly folded brick fencing is strong and durable; it should last at least five to six decades without problems. And if after this period a competent restoration is carried out, then the fence will stand for the same amount.
2. Such fences have a very aesthetic, neat appearance.
3. A brick fence does not require special maintenance in the form of painting or cleaning, which saves time and effort for site owners.

Disadvantages of brick fencing

1. The complexity and duration of construction, especially without proper experience.
2. The rather high price of materials and the complexity of their delivery.
3. Such a fence requires a reliable continuous strip foundation.

For laying the fence, it is necessary to purchase or fireclay bricks - only in this case the fence will not require additional cladding. If using normal building brick, masonry most often will not be very beautiful, without clearly defined corners and edges. Laying must be done with jointing, carefully drawing out the seams, otherwise the whole view of the fence will be spoiled.

The laying process

In order for the fence to be durable and have a respectable appearance, masonry must be done immediately along the entire length of the fence. And the work must be carried out consistently.

The laying of the walls of the fence can be carried out in half a brick or in one brick.

Fence masonry "in brick"

• Before starting the laying of walls, a thin layer is stretched between the pillars. rope, which aligns horizontally. This will help make the rows of masonry perfectly even, since the first row sets the evenness of the rest of the masonry.

• The first step is to lay out the first three rows in columns.
• The columns are laid out around the supports embedded in the foundation, which are served by t pipes or reinforcing trusses.

• Then, brick laying follows in the walls of the fence to the same height. Further, it is necessary to take into account the necessary connection of the pillars with the walls laid out in the spans between the pillars. This is carried out using pieces of reinforcement, which are laid on top of the third row on posts and wall spans. Usually two pieces of reinforcement are laid, on both sides of the pole. At the same time, at least 500 ÷ 700 mm of reinforcement should be found on the laid out walls.

• For a bundle, you can also use a reinforcing mesh - it is laid in the same way as the reinforcement segments.
• The mentioned connecting parts are always laid (embedded) on the concrete solution previously applied to the surface.
• The reinforcement procedure is repeated every three rows.
• Starting from the seventh row, the laying of columns and walls is carried out simultaneously.
• You can make a bunch in another way, when all the columns first rise completely, and then the walls.

In this case, holes will have to be drilled in the walls of the pillars to install reinforcing pieces in them. Agree that this method is longer and more laborious. In addition, when drilling, you can accidentally damage the integrity of the brick pillars.

• To ensure that the seams of the masonry have the same thickness throughout their entire length, the easiest way is to use a metal wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm, the bars of which are laid along the edges of the masonry walls on both sides. These elements may remain in the masonry, but then a large amount of wire will be needed. It is better to remove them after the solution has set and use them further in the same way. The photo clearly shows the segments that fix the thickness of the seams.

So, for example, you can prepare ten segments of the desired length, which will be equal to the length of the span between the pillars.

Then, using wire, five rows are laid. After that, from the very bottom seam the wire is carefully pulled out and used already in the sixth row (during this time, the mortar in the masonry should already seize, and subsidence will not follow). So gradually the segments are transferred from below to the upper rows.

After lifting 4 ÷ 5 rows of masonry, while the mortar has not yet strongly seized, after pulling out the metal rods, it is recommended to immediately do decorative stitching. If necessary, the mortar is added to the seams, and the excess concrete that has fallen on brick wall, is removed immediately.

Processing of seams with "embroidery"

• In order for the fence to stand in its original form as long as possible, after the concrete dries out and gains the necessary strength, the brick surface, cleaned of dirt and dust, is covered with waterproofing impregnation. It penetrates deep into and protects it from moisture, giving the material pronounced hydrophobic qualities.

The surface is covered with a roller, and after drying it becomes invisible visually. During rain, drops of water will immediately flow down the wall without soaking into the brick or seams.

You should not take on the work of erecting a brick fence on your own if there is no experience in laying bricks. From the first time you will never get a perfectly beautiful and even wall. It is better to trust an experienced bricklayer who has built such fences more than once - he will do his job much better and faster than a beginner.

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

Video - Laying a red brick fence

wooden fences

Having prepared all the elements and tools, you can proceed to the process of erecting a fence. Installation work is carried out in stages:

1. As with the construction of any fence, the territory is marked first. According to the marked line for determining the location of the supporting pillars.
2. Poles can be installed in two ways:

- Driving into the ground. When choosing this method of installing supports, the pipe must be driven in to a depth of at least 1 ÷ 1.20 m;

- . In this case, the posts can be installed at a shallower depth - usually ⅓ of the post height is enough, which will remain above the soil surface. With this technology, before installing the pillars, it will be necessary to drill holes with a diameter exceeding the diameter tr tubes by 3 ÷ 4 times. A sand cushion is poured at the bottom of the pit, which must be well compacted, and in the compacted state its thickness should be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm.

In the lower part of the column, in two or three places, segments of reinforcement are welded perpendicularly, protruding beyond the column in both directions by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After the column is installed in the pit, a rough concrete solution is poured into it with gravel.

Then the column is set strictly vertically and fixed with stones, which are tightly installed in the concrete solution, in the gap between the column and the ground.

Having thus installed all the pillars, they are left to set for several days.

• Further, transverse crossbeams are welded onto the installed pillars. They also need to be set in level, exposing to the ideal horizontal.
• The next step is the installation of corrugated board. Sheets can be fixed to the joists with rivets or self-tapping screws, which are matched by color. In any case, it will be necessary to drill holes in the sheet and the welded crossbar for the fasteners.

Special "roofing" self-tapping screws for fastening sheets of corrugated board

• Fastenings are made in the lower part of the corrugated board wave, at a distance from each other, approximately 500 mm.

Installation of the fence takes place quite quickly, especially if there is a skilled assistant nearby. It is quite possible to cope with this work even in one day, of course, with the supporting pillars already installed.

Find out by studying step by step instructions for home master, in our article.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Decking

Video: self-installation of a corrugated fence

Other types of fences

In addition to those already mentioned, ready-made fence sections made of galvanized metal rods are installed, which have a protective PVC coating. This version of the fence is installed in the same way as corrugated board - on support poles, however, there are models that have their own special stands. For fences with stands, the installation of poles is not required - it is enough to prepare a flat surface covered with fine gravel. The frames of such fences are fastened together.

Fencing sections have sharp upper edges, therefore, despite the external lightness of the structure and her not too high, it is not so easy to overcome such a fence.

Such a fence is quite durable and should last 25-30 years.

Another version of the "budget" fence is stretched on installed metal poles, interconnected with metal rods for rigidity. Installation of the chain-link is best done with assistants, as the mesh requires stretching and immediate fixing.

For its installation, posts are used that have special welded hooks, which, immediately after putting the net on them, are nailed to the support post.

Such a fence is usually installed on summer cottages or on the border between adjacent territories.

Video - The simplest chain-link fence

Thinking about the installation of the fence yourself, you must first evaluate your own strengths, skills and financial capabilities. Shouldn't take on hard work, such as laying bricks, in the absence of experience and sufficient knowledge. Efforts, time and money may be wasted, and an ineptly erected fence will have to be dismantled and another fence installed.