Models of stoves for a brick house. How to fold a brick oven for a house or cottage. Preparation of mortar for masonry

In this article - an understandable, very detailed photo instruction for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to place the stove in a private house for optimal heating larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a house of a small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for barbecue on the grill or shish kebabs.

Options for placing a brick oven

The second scheme is for a solid quadrature house. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained by heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pluses - a warm couch and the possibility of placing a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency furnace heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. Bricks are of three types:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
2. Silicate - not suitable at all in this case, even double M150.
3. Refractory - ideal, but they are more often covered only with a firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Tip: when choosing a brick for the stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove-setters still make their own solution from river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water in the old fashioned way. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called greasy clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy ready-made oven mixture in the store, having prepared it according to the instructions.

From the fittings, you need to purchase grates, blower and furnace doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark out the place that the new stove will take.

The chimney pipe must be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are laying for the first time, professional stove-makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future furnace from the prepared brick. Naturally, without solution. It minimizes possible risks in real laying, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The furnace foundation requires preliminary waterproofing, in area it must exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stove.

During the laying of a new row, it is necessary to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

For the construction of a brick oven, the following tools are needed:

• plumb;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for laying the stove

Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come with years of experience. Here is information about enough easy way creating a fireplace stove for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even for beginner stove-makers.

Foundation masonry

The base row of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is carried out with any brick, some stove-makers even fill this level with rubble.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

The erection of the furnace body

The first oven row is marked. The horizontal, from which they repel when marking, is the wall of the room.

Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the furnace mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Second row laying. The stove wall closest to the wall of the room is reinforced with an additional brick to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is completely laid. A door is mounted through which the owners will clean out the ashes.

The door is installed on the solution, leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is fixed with a wire that must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple, but on a refractory brick. In order for it to lie on the same level as the bricks, holes are cut out in fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick is easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grate.

The large oven door is similarly fixed with wire fasteners.

The first firebox row is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut with a grinder, then the slots are brought manually to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on a refractory brick along with a brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove with a fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed over the furnace furnace.

The body of the stove is built.

Creating a chimney

The place left under the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are being laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the furnace roof.

The wells are again divided, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space related to the chimney remains empty.

The cornice of the body is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and exits at the top left. The final separation of the wells is closed with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

Two chimneys stretch to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is mounted here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. In order to save money and not build a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will go through it like a snake, having time to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 bricks.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully sawn out in the roof.

Before bringing the chimney to the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out above the ridge by at least 0.5 meters. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke up.

Even a small oven in the house is a cosiness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Modern brick stoves for wood-fired cottages perfectly warm the room and do not dry the air. Every summer resident can build such a structure, if you approach the project implementation process correctly. In addition to the fact that wood stoves serve as a source of heat in the house, they cook meals. Firewood, as a source of fuel, is a cheap and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is not difficult to get in the countryside.

What are they?

brick ovens for a wood-burning house, despite the presence of modern electric fireplaces, they still remain relevant in many country mansions. A similar design is being built according to drawings and diagrams, which are not difficult to find. fits perfectly into any interior. The construction of such a structure in the house has several advantages:

• Wood-burning stoves retain heat in the room for a long time and do not cool as quickly as metal devices.
• The heat from the device spreads evenly over the entire area of ​​​​the room, simultaneously warming up the neighboring rooms.
• During construction, you can independently calculate the consumption of materials and heat transfer.
• - source fresh air and healthy atmosphere.

Types of structures

There are several types of summer or winter wood-burning stove for the home, each of which has unique characteristics and construction schemes. The main types of devices:

• Heating. The main task of such furnaces is to heat the room as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to create comfortable conditions for people to live. The size of the structures is selected individually depending on the needs of the customer.
• Cooking. The design is also called a food oven for the kitchen. In such devices, various dishes are prepared. Some projects involve one whole system, which greatly enriches the functionality.

What are they made of and what tools are needed?

Before starting construction, it is important to check the presence of all tools and materials for the job. It is quite difficult for beginners to lay furnaces alone, therefore it is recommended that the entire process be supervised by an experienced person in construction. To build a fireplace stove with your own hands, you need the following inventory:

• shovel;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• plumb;
• Master OK;
• rule.

The scheme for building a wood-burning stove provides for a standard set of necessary materials:

For the design itself, you will need hob.

• corner;
• valve;
• hob;
• oven;
• doors;
• bricks of various types;
• clay and sand, crushed stone;
• cement, water and others Additional materials for solution.

Stages of work

Solution preparation

The summer kitchen stove project involves several stages of construction. At the first stage, it is necessary to allocate a place for the future foundation, to prepare a pit. After that, the solution is mixed, and the base is formed load-bearing structure. After pouring the cement mixture, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time (2-3 days) until the foundation dries. Next, prepare a clay solution and proceed to the main process of laying.

The mixture for laying bricks for a wood-burning stove is made of a thick consistency, and it is important to take into account some features. Before using the finished solution, be sure to check its quality. There are several methods that allow you to assess the degree of readiness of the mixture. Several balls are rolled from the solution, which subsequently, after drying, should not have cracks on the surface. If any, the masonry mix is ​​not of the best quality. You can bake a similar ball in the oven. In the case when, after baking, the product has retained its shape and there are no visible damages, the solution is considered to be of high quality.

With a fireplace for heating a house, there will be no problems in operation if all construction standards are observed.

How to lay a brick?

Closer to the 10th row of bricks, a firebox is formed.

• Throughout the base, two continuous rows of bricks are laid out in accordance with the construction scheme. The edges of the structure are laid out from solid products.
• In the 3rd row, an ash chamber is formed, the door of which is fixed on the 2nd row of masonry. The fourth and fifth row of bricks must be blocked, after which a drying chamber for wood is installed, if desired.
• After the 6th row, the furnace system is increased to the inside, while controlling the laying level and corners.
• On the 7th row, fittings are mounted in the form of a grate and a solid grate, and the firebox door is fixed.
• After that, at the 8th and 10th stages, a combustion chamber is formed, while in the process of lining it is necessary to fix the dryer, which completely overlaps, starting from the 11th row. The surface of the structure is lined with metal rods, after which the concrete mixture is poured. The future chimney is being laid.
• A brick is placed in line 12, on which a small kitchen stove. The surface is installed directly into the brickwork, and water containers are fixed near it.
• The masonry stages are completed with the formation of a chimney.

Every year more and more modern solid fuel boilers appear on the heating equipment market, while their efficiency is constantly growing, in some cases exceeding 90%. Despite this, brick ovens for the home, whose efficiency rarely reaches 70%, firmly occupy their positions in the market and are not going to give them up.

There is a simple explanation for this: a brick oven maintains an optimal ratio of temperature and humidity in the premises. In order to be convinced of this, no devices are required, it is enough to spend some time in such a house and the difference between conventional water heating and stove heating will become noticeable at the level of sensations.

Types of stone ovens

At the present time stone ovens they lay out bricks using several basic schemes, if necessary, making various changes that do not affect the operation of the heat source. The schemes according to which furnace projects are made are divided into the following types:

• with channel-type gas ducts;
• with a chamber for heating air and channel chimneys;
• cap type.

The figure below shows the device of a brick oven of all three types.

Dutch, Swedish and bell oven

The simplest channel scheme is shown on the left side; furnaces are built on it, which do not require much space and high-quality building materials. A high qualification of a bricklayer is not needed to perform work, a person must be able to lay simple brick walls with a bandage and that's enough. The so-called Dutch oven, which is the basis of this scheme, in addition to the listed advantages, can be structurally changed and, if necessary, a hob can be added. This means that it can be adjusted to any finished building without violating the principle of operation. However, there are also disadvantages:

• Of all such heat sources, the Dutch has the lowest efficiency - up to 40%.
• Dutch brick stoves operate in a slow burning mode, so it will not work to heat them with light fuels and small wood.
• After attenuation, it is imperative to close the valve, otherwise, due to the channel structure, the stone oven quickly dries out.
• A coil for heating water for hot water supply cannot be built into the chimney path, blocking the cross section of the chimney, it will disrupt the operation of the circuit and cause a decrease in the already low efficiency.

Channel brick heating furnaces of various configurations are presented in the following photo.

Design Options

The Swedish stove, which is presented in the middle of the first diagram, has a design that is more perfect than the Dutch one and allows you to give out efficiency up to 60%. Effective method combustion and intense heat exchange is due to the built-in oven, which serves not so much as an oven for baking, but as an air heater in the room. In this stove for a brick house, the combustion products, before entering the system of vertical channels, go around the metal cabinet of the oven, instantly heating it in the very first minutes after kindling.

The mentioned vertical gas ducts occupy the space from the floor to the top of the stove, intensively extracting thermal energy at flue gases. The Swedish heating stove has a lot of advantages:

• Designed for side mounting oven coil of a heat exchanger that heats water for household needs in the house. At the same time, a storage tank for heated water can be additionally mounted in the drying niche, which will allow maintaining its temperature.
• Afterburning of the combustion products occurs at the beginning of the gas duct that goes around the oven, and they enter the vertical shafts with a temperature not exceeding 800 ºС. As a result, the channels brick chimney can be performed on a cement-sand mortar from a simple red brick.
• It is possible, without reducing the efficiency of heat transfer in the stove, to direct part of the flue gases to warm up the stove bench; for this, horizontal gas ducts are arranged under it.
• There is a hob for cooking, while the design of brick ovens provides 2 modes of operation (winter / summer). The transition is carried out with the help of valves, which in summer direct the combustion products along the shortest path to the chimney.
• You can burn any kind solid fuel including straw and reeds.

Among the shortcomings, it should be noted strict requirements for the quality of the materials used and building mixtures on clay. In addition, such construction is beyond the power of a novice to carry out; the laying of heating furnaces of this type is carried out by specialists - stove-makers. How various “Swedes” look outwardly can be seen in the photo.

The first figure also shows the principle of operation of a bell-type furnace. Despite the apparent simplicity of the product, the construction of furnaces of this kind is a very complex process. The upper vault of the building is under heavy loads, so only an experienced specialist can perform it. In addition, in this type of heat source, it is practically impossible to install a water heating circuit for hot water supply. Despite the high efficiency that a bell-type oven for a brick house is able to achieve, they are extremely rare for the reasons stated.

Operation of furnaces in winter and summer

The organization of the operation of heating and cooking stoves in two modes (winter / summer) deserves special attention. Switching modes is available in all channel-type stoves, as well as in "Swedes". How to implement this in practice is shown in the diagram.

How should the stove work in winter and summer

There are 2 ways to organize dual-mode operation:

• traditional, with one chimney and two valves;
• with two chimneys and one damper.

In the first version, in winter, the valve blocks the direct flow of combustion products, forcing them to move through all channels and give off heat to heat a private house. In summer, the channels are closed with a second valve, and the direct path to the exit is open. While saving labor costs and building materials, this scheme is dangerous from waste. The effect can occur if both shutters are accidentally closed. Well, it is worth noting that in summer mode the top and sides of the building still heat up, dissipating excess heat into the rooms in the midst of the summer heat.

The second option, devoid of drawbacks, is the projects of brick ovens according to the two-chimney scheme, which is on the right. No matter what position the damper is in, the path for combustion products is always open and there is draft in the pipes. In summer, the gases will follow the path of least resistance, and not into the system of channels, in winter, with the valve closed, this path will be closed for them and the combustion products will go to the second pipe. Therefore, such products are absolutely safe, although they require somewhat higher costs during construction.

Note. Swedish brick ovens, made according to the second scheme, can be smoothly adjusted using a valve, reducing or increasing the intensity of combustion.

The second disadvantage of this method is to highlight the device for additional cleaning on each chimney.

Russian stove

This brick oven is a real achievement of building mechanics and heat engineering, since the efficiency of burning solid fuel in it reaches 70-75%. The design of the heat source has been unchanged for centuries and, at the same time, is the most difficult to implement. The scheme of operation of the canonical Russian stove is shown below.

Structural scheme

Russian brick heating stoves for a house during construction resemble the construction of a building, since their corners must be laid out according to the same rules using a plumb line, level and other tools. The diagram below shows the serial laying of furnaces in key points, while the detailed ordering is rather complicated and requires a separate study.

Masonry scheme of the Russian stove

The main advantages of heating systems in addition to high efficiency are a large heat capacity, the presence of a full-fledged stove bench (beds) and the possibility of preparing primordially Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way. The requirements for the quality of building materials here are not as high as in the construction of "Swedes", but the qualifications of the master - the stove-maker should be appropriate.

As for the shortcomings, the main one is material consumption. On the small ovens materials need twice as much as the average "Dutch", not to mention the fact that a serious foundation is needed. Accordingly, the complexity construction works entail significant costs.

For each dwelling, you can choose the right option for stove heating, taking into account all factors. The listed types of stoves are used both in small country houses and in country cottages built of wood or stone.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with newer and newer models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses are still honored with an ordinary brick oven - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of furnaces and do-it-yourself brick-type construction technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The body of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick oven has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while in the firebox metal furnace firewood needs to be thrown up every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic bad smell). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly cause harm to health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ones) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called kiln breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When using any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel furnace has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one tab of fuel increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick oven produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel oven in which the fuel is smoldering, black smoke constantly pours. This shortcoming is deprived of metal solid fuel heaters of long burning (full-fledged, and not the so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive complex structure and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven warms up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that will heat the air in forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built along with the house. And ideally, this should be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

The use of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and carburizing metal parts(muffle furnaces).
4. Firing of ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in the blacksmith shop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above scheme in different furnaces may be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• in the oven, a heat exchanger can be installed on the side for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell-type furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (high loads take place in the design). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove bench

The scheme of the Russian stove, as well as English fireplace, is called a flow. It does not include a convector.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided for in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• become available for cooking such dishes of our national cuisine, which you can’t cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General arrangement of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a chamber with a door in which the fuel burns - the furnace (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. Under the grates there is another chamber, called an ash pan or blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, outside air enters the furnace and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (pos. 12): the smoke channel is cleaned through it;
• valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, through which, after kindling, when the entire carbon monoxide already evaporated, block the chimney in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the crossing area attic floor and roofing, called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the walls of the chimney are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof chimney has another broadening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other items:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (ventilator), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 - furnace vault;
• 13 - the bend of the air convector, called the overflow or pass;
• 20 - overlapping of the furnace;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparing for construction

Required materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They lay out the most bottom rows- the so-called underfire part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Furnace ceramic brick. It is also red, but compared to the building one it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the oven are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lays out the flame (furnace) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
3. Chamotte brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay bricks combine high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick in this case can not be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by the color depth, but this method is valid only for those products for which clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a qualitative sample is on the left). When tapping metal object high-quality fireclay bricks should make a sonorous and clear sound, and when they fall from a certain height, they break into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds to tapping, and when it falls, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if irregular furnace firing is expected. The fact is that a dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be saturated with moisture and become sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique hatching with filling), a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used instead of clay. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: mortars of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in the solution is sought to be minimized.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the mortar is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; at more deep cracks solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• pick hammer;
• cutting for seams;
• mortar shovel.

The stove-maker should have a rail-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By setting 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​​​17.5 m 2, will produce in normal mode 8.5 kW, and in intensive - 13.3 kW of heat. This performance will be enough for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the furnace is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Rather than design and manufacture a home-made firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The firebox in size and location of fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; for permanent use, you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (lower constriction of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time, the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one-fifth - if wood fuel or pellets are the main one.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, head height above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to fulfill exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in orders, which will take only about an hour. More modern version- simulate a furnace in one of the computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

AT big house With permanent residence the oven can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in this way, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

1. A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in the intersection area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating plate, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations internal walls(including T-shaped). Wherein minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. It is allowed to build a small Russian stove on the basis of wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), based on the ground or rubble masonry of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation, can be rubble. An ordinary oven (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 50 mm.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after upper layer dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work on the floor in front of the future stove, it is necessary to build a fireproof coating, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must be at least 300 mm from the furnace, while its side edges must extend beyond the furnace by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see Fig.).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the underfire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
2. Bandaging of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The laying must be carried out with dressing of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and they are guided in the future.
5. Doors and shutters are fixed in the masonry by means of a binding wire laid in the seams, or with the help of clamps made of a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and flame dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and properly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are advised to lay out the furnace part of the furnace in the formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
4. Next, lay out the flame part, for which they use furnace and fireclay bricks.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick must be moistened by lowering it into a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution with their hands, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid correctly, without correcting or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after removing the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying a few more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the furnace door - in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Spread the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is blocked hob or vault (in purely heating furnaces). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Further, the laying of the furnace is continued according to the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded off.

Having completed the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Vaults are of two types:

• flat: arches of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

1. They begin with the installation of extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size, on the solution.
2. After the solution dries, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without violations, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular arch should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For the oven to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to uncontrolled air flow through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of heat can fly into the chimney, and if the furnace door is open during fuel combustion, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and besides, due to the abundance of moisture in them, it forms in the chimney a large number of acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel bookmark to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is carried out with a torch, paper, etc. It is forbidden to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to cover the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; if it turned white - the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

Cleaning and repair of the furnace is usually carried out in the summer, but in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and with a large amount of it, the stove will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any damage or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

Brick ovens are very diverse. Without them, it is difficult to imagine a traditional village house or a Russian bath. But they are also used in modern cottages. In addition, such products can be built in the summer kitchen, garage, greenhouse. What are the types of brick ovens, how they differ - we will consider in more detail in this article.

What are the different types

The variety of brick products for heating is very large. They can run on wood, coal or other fuels. Act as only a heating device, or be used also for cooking.

Products can be folded various shapes: round, square or complex architectural design. In terms of size, products are made from very small models to large-scale multifunctional structures.

Various types of stoves mainly differ in the design of chimneys:

• Models with horizontal smoke channels.
• Products with vertical design channels.
• Countercurrent chimneys.
• Cap systems.
• Combined options.

Stoves can be used only for heating, or have additional functions:

• Cooktops make it possible to cook food when the stove is heated. But this design requires a smaller fuel compartment. In addition, the heat capacity of such a model is much lower - a lot of heat escapes through the surface of the stove, the stove cools down faster.
• The presence of an oven compartment makes the design more heat-intensive. Hot gases can only heat this compartment, or pass directly through it. In the latter case, you can use the oven only after all the firewood has burned out.
• Water pipes can be built into the stove. This design allows you to conduct heating throughout the house.

You can combine different types of stoves, combine them with fireplaces, perform with a stove bench or a heating shield. Often there are two compartments for fuel, each of which works for a specific purpose.

Tunnel stove options

Brick tunnel ovens can be made with vertical or horizontal smoke channels.

Horizontal smoke channels

The hot gases in this type of oven give off their heat on their way to the chimney. On each channel, it is necessary to provide for a cleaning door, since soot and ash settle on a horizontal surface in large quantities.

To increase the heat transfer of gases, special heat pockets can also be made. By increasing the internal area of ​​the channel, the speed of movement of hot air through them decreases. Consequently, the stove becomes more heat-consuming.

Such a chimney system is not very popular.

Vertical smoke channels

The design with such an arrangement of channels prevents the free movement of gases inside the chimney. This often leads to overheating of the first channel. In addition, in this case, the construction of a higher chimney is required than with a horizontal scheme.

But this option has serious advantages: due to the high height of the structure, it is less susceptible to air blowing. Thus, the stove turns out to be more heat-intensive.

The main difference between counterflow structures and models with vertical channels is that the hole where the gases descend has a wider cross section. They move at a slower speed, managing to give more heat to the brick walls.

Combined flue systems

Combinations are often used various systems. This makes it possible to use all the advantages of each design and get rid of its shortcomings for individual design. There are a lot of options for this combination.

Not all designs are suitable for heating furnaces. Some of them are used for simple fireplaces.

Bell system

Brick bell-type furnaces are based on the principle of free movement of gases under the influence of gravity. A kind of cap is made inside the structure, where incoming gases rise up and transfer thermal energy brickwork. Cooling down, they gradually descend and exit into the chimney.

This type of stove has many advantages over tunnel options:

• Even after the combustion of fuel in the stove is over, enough hot air remains under the hood, which gives off heat for a long time.
• In this design, there is no need for a high chimney.
• Heat is not blown out in strong winds.
• You can build a product of any shape and size.
• This design is suitable for furnaces operating on various types of fuel.
• The efficiency of such stoves is much higher than that of other gas outlet systems.
• These models are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.
• In this design, a small amount of soot is formed, so it does not require frequent cleaning.

Caps can be made several pieces. Thus, the heat transfer of gases will be much higher. There are several types of such furnaces, but they all work on the same principle. The two-bell brick oven is a very efficient heater.

Dutch stove

The brick oven "Dutch" is the simplest brick oven. The great advantage of this design is that it takes up little space.

Very small models are 0.5 x 0.5 m in size. And although quite a few more efficient products for heating have appeared at present, the Dutch have not lost their popularity.

The advantages of such a stove:

• The large surface area of ​​the structure heats up quickly and cools down slowly, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for a long time.
• The small size of this product does not require a lot of bricks. Therefore, the price of such a model is quite low.
• Under such a stove, a powerful base is not required, since its weight is much less than that of conventional models.
• Ease of operation, maintenance and repair.
• You can build a product that will heat even a building with several floors. Two-story brick ovens - "Dutch" can be done with your own hands.

Round brick oven - "Dutch" - device diagram

This model is applicable both for permanent use and for houses with periodic residence. It is easy to melt even after a long period of inactivity. The main disadvantage of the "Dutch" can be called its exactingness to the quality of fuel. Often these products are made in a round shape.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name because of the rather wide use in the Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type, the heating of the room is carried out due to the transfer of heat from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type can be called:

• The ease of the device of this design;
• Light weight;
• The cost of such a model is quite budgetary;
• It has good heat dissipation, traction and has a high efficiency;
• Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
• Properly folded design is very aesthetic.

Usually such products are installed in the center of the room.

Long burning furnaces

A long-burning brick oven has its own design features and operating principle. It allows for a sufficiently long time to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room. And there is no need to add fuel.

The design of such a stove assumes the presence of:

• Large fuel chamber - for a long time it is necessary to load a lot of firewood.
• Large compartment for ash.
• Tightly closing combustion chamber door.
• Adjustable flue damper.

Long-burning brick ovens - you can build it with your own hands if the principle of their operation is clear:

• First of all, it is necessary to heat the furnace compartment to the desired temperature. At the same time, the chimney warms up, and the combustion process normalizes. For this, 4-5 kg ​​of firewood is burned in fast mode.
• To warm up the room and get required amount coal, within 1-1.5 hours the same amount of fuel is burned in normal mode.
• The final stage is the complete loading of the firebox with firewood. It closes tightly, the chimney is blocked for minimal oxygen access. For 10-12 hours, the fuel will slowly smolder to maintain the required temperature in the house.

Important! If the air access is very large, then long-term combustion will not work. It also cannot be allowed open fire in the furnace.

Pyrolysis structures

A very interesting type of long-burning furnaces, which have a practically waste-free principle of operation, are pyrolysis models. To obtain thermal energy, they use not only traditional types of fuel - firewood, fuel briquettes, coal, but also the gas that is formed during combustion. This type of stove works on a gas generator system.

How to make a brick pyrolysis oven? It is best to take ready-made design schemes and drawings as a basis. Making independent calculations is quite difficult.

Options on the corner

Despite the widespread use of various types of solid fuel boilers, many owners of private houses prefer to build coal-fired brick stoves.

And there are explanations for this:

• When coal is burned in the furnace compartment, the temperature can rise up to 1000 °C. Metal products burn out and break down over time. Refractory bricks for the furnace will last much longer.
• Brickwork tolerates temperature changes better.
• The stove accumulates heat well and releases it long after the coal has been extinguished.
• For space heating, a water heating system is not required.

Coal brick ovens have many advantages - photo

Since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than that of firewood, it is more profitable to use such products for heating houses.

Even the simplest brick oven, if it is properly folded, can not only effectively heat the house. It will also create a special microclimate in the room, which has a beneficial effect on human health.

The choice of models is very diverse. Everyone will be able to choose a product according to individual requirements and taking into account the specific parameters of the house. More information on this topic can be found in the video in this article: "Pyrolysis brick oven."