Stone oven in the house. How to lay brick ovens for the house with your own hands - types of ovens, laying methods. Video. Detailed laying of a brick oven for a summer residence

• Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are placed in accordance with the scheme. The doors are fixed with the help of annealed steel wire with a length of at least 30-40 cm. It is inserted at one end into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is fixed between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for the different thermal expansion of brick and cast iron, asbestos cloth or cord is used.
• Chimney brick oven usually also made of brick, but an industrial-made ceramic block chimney can also be used. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable traction, and does not clog.
• To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined with finishing stone, clinker, tiles. Finishing gives the stove not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from the harmful effects of water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is somewhat higher, its service life is significantly increased.

Video: do-it-yourself oven masonry

The choice of the correct design of the furnace and high-quality masonry is the key to its long and safe operation . A do-it-yourself brick wood-burning stove will decorate any home, moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.

Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning brick stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a stove-maker to build and buy necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick ovens

The first thing to consider is to choose a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven in the work of many years of practice:

• channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
• hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
• Swede - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture on your own is quite simple. It is distinguished by its small size in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two - or three-story house of a small area or a summer house, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the ceilings. The channel stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch woman warms up quickly, and after attenuation it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strength is the ease of construction and undemanding fuel.

The plate shown in the photo is a convenient option for country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. The tank, installed in the path of hot flue gases, is capable of supplying hot water for heating systems or household needs.

Swedish brick ovens combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off the accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is unlike a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Any brick oven transfers heat to the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it be in a heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in farmhouse and at the cottage:

1. If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay out the stove in the middle, with a slight offset to the side outer wall where the cold comes from.
2. For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
3. Suppose 1-2 small rooms adjoin the hall. You can go there water heating with radiators and circulation pump connected to the furnace heat exchanger or tank.
4. Do not plan to place the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them up, part of the heat will simply go outside.
5. The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and rude - into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the roof ridge. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the furnace body must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. Under them, it is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden elements of the roof located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with your own hands is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the furnace business, except for the construction of street barbecues and barbecues.

Advice. Dutch is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it have to be ennobled, for example, overlaid tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

• red burnt brick - at least 390 pieces;
• grate grate size 25 x 25 cm;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
• metal shutter 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be laid out at any required height. The indicated number of bricks is enough for the construction in a one-story private house.

The list of components and building materials for the hob:

• solid ceramic brick - 190 pieces;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
• fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
• chimney damper;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, and preferably 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

For the construction of a heating and cooking Swedish stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for laying the firebox. To install fittings, look for soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of furnaces, which are commercially available.

Foundation laying

Before folding the oven, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so it is unacceptable to put it directly on the floors, even those filled with cement screed. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then it is recommended to observe the following for the construction of the furnace foundation. step by step instructions:

1. Dismantle the section of the screed and dig a pit that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsiding soil.
2. Place a sand cushion 100 mm high and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
3. After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
4. Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mix), place a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

To properly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, but instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, felt soaked with clay and a solid first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video on the topic:

Rules for the construction of the stove

The heating or cooking stove is built on a clay-sand mortar without the addition of cement, which contributes to cracking. To prepare it, use the instructions on the package in order to observe the proportions of clay and water. Print the order on paper and proceed to the masonry itself, guided by the following rules:

1. First, each row is laid dry to fit or cut the stones if necessary.
2. Before placing the bricks in the mortar, submerge them in a bucket of water.
3. The thickness of the mortar layer between the bricks is no more than 5 mm. Light tapping of stones is allowed, but you should not move them in a horizontal plane after laying.
4. Every 2 rows, check the vertical with a plumb line and the horizontal with a building level.
5. Remove excess solution squeezed out with a trowel. Inside the firebox and gas channels, the masonry of the furnace is wiped with a damp cloth as it is built.
6. To install doors and other fittings, tie a wire to it (there are special holes), and make a backup from the outside. In places of contact with bricks, wrap the tank and doors with asbestos cord, and plug the cracks with mortar.

An important point. The first row is the one indicated in the order. But there is also a "zero" row, laid solid on the foundation, regardless of the design of the furnace.

The clay-sand mortar does not harden, but dries, and this happens quite slowly - 2-3 days, or even more. Previously, you can’t kindle the stove if you don’t want to redo the cracked masonry. How to build a brick oven is described in the video:

Conclusion

Do not think that the first time you will be able to build a decent stove out of bricks. Perhaps it will look unsightly, and after kindling it will crack in some places. This is all uncritical, the cracks are sealed with the same mortar, and the masonry can be decorated from the outside by tiling or painting. Another thing is important: the stove should heat well and not smoke into the room through small cracks that were previously invisible. The first ignition will reveal all the defects, and your task is to successfully eliminate them, for which it is recommended to watch the second part of the video:

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Russian oven: drawings of brick ovens

Previously, such designs were found in every home, but now they are already a rarity. Despite this, the Russian stove can successfully fit into the interior of the room. Also, Russian brick ovens are not only a heating device - they also have a hob.

For laying the furnace, the following materials will be required:

• solid red brick - 1610 pieces;
• a view for a valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
• dry clay mortar in dissolved form;
• samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;
• damper 43x34 centimeters - 1 piece. See also: "Laying the Russian stove: ordering."

The pipe of a Russian stove is traditionally laid out of brick, but modern technologies make it possible to install a round structure of good tightness with safe and convenient passage through floors and roofs (read also: “Heating stoves for a brick house - we do it ourselves”).

To work, you will need the following tools:

• trowel - for laying and leveling the solution;
• pickaxe - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end is a square windshield;


• bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
• rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
• plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the corners is checked;
• brush - needed for grouting;
• cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.

Drawings of brick ovens for any type of house are as follows:

1. Cooking chamber. For masonry, a 3/4 ground corner brick with locks is used.
2. Under. From the back there is a slope, for the purpose of which the space is covered with sand, on which the brick is laid.
3. Covering the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along bars, corners or sheet blanks.
4. Vault with lock. In some cases a central lock is used, in others the last two symmetrical bricks are used.
5. Rows to the lower vault. The laying of a brick oven is carried out in the usual way, in the future, a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood are installed on top of it.
6. Wells. They are tied rows, in which they leave a hole leading to the undercook.
7. Underbay. Bricks are laid on foundation mortar, hollow stones are not allowed.
8. Code VK. For convenience, the bricks are cut to a wedge shape.
9. Covering the channel above the samovar. It is solid, only whole stones are used.
10. Holes are reduced above the shestak. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
11. Wall alignment. At the same time, the overtube is reduced, the channel of the samovar is laid.
12. Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate cover.
13. View installation. To build in the structure, two rows are laid.
14. Chimney. The height of the pipe from the bottom to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.

Thanks to this stove, high-quality heating of the house is provided.

Buslaevskaya oven: projects

The design has a built-in hood. The oven is small. It is ideal for any private home, as it allows not only to heat the premises, but also to cook food. Despite its compact size, the stove heats spacious rooms well, so I exist finished projects houses with a stove.

Special schemes for laying brick ovens will help you get the job done without complicated calculations.

For installation, you will need the following materials:

• doors - fireboxes (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
• refractory - 43 pieces;
• solid brick - 382 pieces;
• oven-cabinet 28x33x50 cm;
• cast iron stove 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings of different diameters);
• valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
• grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
• corner - three blanks of equal-shelf rolled products 1 meter long and 45x45 millimeters in size;
• steel - a piece of 0.3x0.28 meters;
• strip - 4 pieces of meter (4 millimeters), 0.25 meters (2 millimeters), 0.35 meters (3 millimeters);
• cast iron stove - 0.4 x0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.

Projects of brick ovens of this type are as follows:

1. Complete row.
2. The door blew.
3. Window opening for cleaning.
4. The bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, three sides are lined with iron.
5. Installation of the furnace door, grate, under the furnace - refractory, cleaning cover, blower door.
6. DS installation.
7. Laying refractory on the edge around the LH.
8. Laying according to the scheme.
9. The upper coating of the oven with clay (1 centimeter) is carried out, the DT overlaps, a stove with burners is attached.
10. Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the plate is not laid. In the future, the brick is placed on the edge.
11. Cleaning is covered, channels are created, 25 cm strips are laid.
12. The cleanings are finished, the fixing wire is embedded.
13. The cap is installed.
14. Installation of the ceiling VK, while the hoods remain.
15. The stoves are laid out according to the scheme.
16. The small stove ends with sheet iron, the laying is carried out in the order of the brick oven.
17. A cleaning hole of a large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are crimped.
18. Protrusion masonry.
19. The protrusions are duplicated and the corner is mounted.
20. The chimney of the BP overlaps similarly to the 19th row.
21. A three-row neck is made, the size of the chimney is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the top valve.
22. A chimney with grooves is created on this and subsequent rows.

The dimensions of the structure increase when using clinker facing brick, therefore, it is not recommended to use them instead of full-bodied material. When finishing with tiles, durability is ensured (the material lasts for decades), in addition, it can be dismantled for facing other heating structures.

Sauna stove ordering: schemes

Projects of brick heating stoves show the location of fireclay and clay bricks in each row. Explanations for the order:

1, 2 row. A blower is created (window for air supply), dressing is used.

3. A window is left for the main chimney.

4. A damper, an ash pan door are installed.

5. A grate, a firebox are mounted, and a refractory is subsequently laid on them.

6. The shape of the chimney and firebox is repeated, doors are installed.

7-11 rows. The firebox ends on the 11th row.

12-14 rows. The heater box is installed.

15-16. The mine expands and halves by analogy with 6 next.

18. The cleaning door is installed.

22.23. The shafts are combined, while the edges of the brick are ground off. Then the shaft above the heater is completely blocked, only the chimney remains.

Frame structures can facilitate the installation process. In this case, the brick is present only in the outer walls, and all internal elements are welded from metal. This can speed up the process of laying the furnace. See also: "Orders of brick sauna stoves."

Features of the orders of brick ovens

The technology of laying furnaces is different from construction load-bearing structures. Usually the rows or the whole product are laid out without the use of mortar. Stitching is carried out, corner trimming grinder material, and during normal masonry, bricks are chipped off with a pick (read also: “How to make outdoor brick ovens with your own hands”).

Furnaces often serve as interior decoration, so they are lined with clinker, tiles, tiles. The diagonals in the first row are carefully measured, and a plumb line is hung in the center of the chimney, which is removed on the last rows of the pipe. Also, the diagonals are controlled every 4 rows, and on each row a cord is pulled when laying, which is checked by the rule.

Instead of a cement-sand mortar, it is recommended to use clay, regardless of the type of furnace being built. Ready-made dry mortars significantly save time spent on clay preparation. So that the composition does not dry quickly, the brick must be moistened with water before laying.

Operating costs will be less if there are no rectangular ledges inside the structure. To this end, when creating an overlap (ledge), the stone is tried on without mortar, the line of overlap is outlined, and the excess material is cut off with a grinder. Internal seams during laying are regularly monitored, and excess mortar is removed from time to time. The pipe is cleaned after completion of work.

Brick ovens are laid out from several materials:

• outer cladding;
• masonry bricks (main structure);
• fireclay - refractory material lays out places that are subjected to strong heat (furnace, under);
• brick with high density edges - located inside the furnace.

Clay bricks must not be mixed with fireclay, and ovens, hobs, rods and grates of grates, water tanks are not embedded in the masonry - this is due to different expansion coefficients during heating. If the metal elements are rigidly embedded in the masonry, then the structure will soon collapse.

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Materials and devices

Brick

Furnace brick differs from refractory fireclay, in some sources they are confused. Their overall size is: building brick 250x125x65 mm, standard oven 230x114x40 mm. If you look, then the stove brick is a high-quality M150, red. It is suitable for building Russian and Dutch oven. With a heat resistance of 800 ° It can also be used to make stones for the home, but it cools quickly and absorbs little heat, so it is used only for open sources of fire where heating is not needed.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace sections of the furnace with a high thermal regime: bath, Swedish, bell-type. Heat resistance - 1600 ° C, which is enough for a home oven. Its high heat capacity makes it an excellent heat accumulator. But because of these features, the stove is not made entirely of fireclay bricks, otherwise it quickly heated up and also cooled rapidly. From the outside, the masonry should be lined with ceramics, at least half a brick.

Chamotte clay from different deposits has different color, but this does not affect the characteristics in any way and it will not work to determine a quality product by its appearance. The size and designations are no different from the usual.

How to recognize a good brick:

• Fine-grained structure without pores and inclusions.
• When tapping a brick with a hammer, a good product has a ringing sound, a bad one has a deaf one.
• If you drop a good brick from a height, it will shatter into large pieces, and a bad one into small pieces and dust.

When laying the internal openings of furnaces for the home, clinker bricks have proven themselves well. It consists of ceramics and with a nondescript appearance shows good indicators of heat resistance and strength. Clinker is cheaper than fireclay, but more expensive than red.

Sand

If you expect your stove to last 10 years without regular repairs, then you need to use mountain sand without impurities in the solution. Other types contain a large amount of organic matter, which leads to cracking of the seams. Clay sand - ground broken brick, it is cheaper than mountain brick, and the quality of the masonry is in no way inferior.

Masonry mortars

When laying stoves for the home, clay and sand mortars are used. For fireclay, white kaolin and fireclay marl are used. With ceramic bricks - ground clay with refractory qualities (gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin). For 100 pcs. you need 40 kg of clay.

When buying clay, pay attention to the smell, if you feel it, this indicates impurities, which is not suitable for building a furnace. Before laying, you need to determine the fat content, i.e. the combination of viscosity with adhesiveness, for the correct ratio of sand. Clay of the same quality, but from different deposits, differ in this indicator. To check, 1 kg of powder is poured with water to the upper edge and allowed to stand for a day. Chamotte marl turns sour in 2 hours.

Soured clay is moistened with water and stirred until the consistency of a thick dough is reached. The resulting composition is divided into 5 equal parts and each is mixed with sand, in different proportions (10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% by volume). Then dry for 4 hours.. From each sample, sausages are made with a diameter of 1.5 cm, at least 30 cm, wrapped around a round object with a diameter of 5 cm and look:

• If the solution has settled down without cracks, then it will fit for the construction of any furnace.
• The dry crust was torn, small cracks appeared - the material is suitable for use.

Cracks have spread 1 mm deep - for furnaces whose temperature does not rise above 300 ° C (cottage fireplace, barbecue).

• kinks, deep cracks, breaks - high sand content, unusable.

Testing brick sand to find the right ratio will save you a lot of money, quality clay is more expensive.

The working solution is made according to the same principle:

From the forging of commercial clay, 4 buckets of mortar are obtained.

Furnace appliances

Furnace appliances (latches, doors) are attached to the furnace with a mustache that falls on the seams or with a steel skirt wrapped in 5 mm asbestos cord. The first option is the cheapest, but not suitable for the oven, created fireboxes and flame dampers, quickly becomes unusable. And for replacement, it is necessary to break the masonry, which is bad for the furnace.

Laying and dressing

Depending on which side of the brick is outside, the masonry is divided into bonder and spoon. "Bed" masonry, when a brick is laid on a spoon or poke, is prohibited by SNiP due to fragility, but is applicable in extreme cases, for exterior decoration.

The laying is carried out with dressing of the seams, the rows of bricks should go with an offset. Otherwise any microcrack will go beyond the place of origin destroying the integrity of the structure. There are a large number of dressing methods, they often have to be changed during the construction of a complex chimney according to the drawing.

Principles of laying bricks:

• The tychkovy row begins and ends the masonry.
• Each brick must stand on top of 2 others.
• Adjacent rows of bricks should overlap by 1/4 in width and length.
• If the vertical seams are not filled with mortar, then the masonry will spread into layers.
• There should not be a coincidence of the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows.
• Areas under the beams, protruding thresholds, liners - only bonded.
• Hewn bricks are not used outside.

The minimum seam width is 2 mm, the maximum is 3 mm. Allowed broadening in masonry up to 5 mm, in the vault and ceiling rows - up to 13 mm. In places where ceramic and fireclay masonry meet, the maximum width is 5 mm. All rows of masonry must be tied.

When constructing partitions, bypass windows are made at the bottom and at the top. The pass is made simply - 2 bricks are skipped. But this will not work with overflow, otherwise there will be a hanging wall. Poking supports alternate every 3 rows with spoon windows.

The walls of the convector are made in order, and the shield is made with spoons with the usual dressing.

The vaults in household stoves are made semicircular. Laying order:

The seams on the wings should not coincide with the castle. To avoid this in the drawing, they are performed in a mirror image, and not in a shift. The angle of divergence should not exceed 17 degrees. To do this, you need to use a brick standard size, thickness of internal seams 2 mm, external 13 mm.

Number of bricks

Prior to the widespread use of computers, the number of bricks per building was calculated by special coefficients for projects with an addition of 15%, for marriage and theft. But at current prices for materials, this approach is unacceptable. Now all buildings are calculated on CAD ( computer-aided design systems). The program will automatically give required amount full-length, shaped and longitudinal bricks, according to the drawing. But with the independent construction of the furnace, the most in a simple way will be counted in order. For an average oven, this will take an hour, but will allow you to calculate materials with an accuracy of 2%.

"Buslaevskaya" oven for home

The design is equipped with a built-in hood and is well suited for the home, as it can be used not only for heating (lower), but also for cooking (upper). To build the "Buslaevskaya" furnace, you will need:

The order of the "Buslaevskaya" furnace:

• I - full row.
• II - blew.
• III - cleaning window.
• IV - the bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, lined with iron on three sides.
• V - a furnace door, a grate, a cleaning cover are installed.
• VI - installation of LH.
• VII - around the LH, the refractory is installed on the edge.
• VIII - complete row
• IX - the upper part of the oven is coated with clay (1 cm).
• X - smoke circulation is set.
• XI - creating channels and laying 25 cm strips, overlapping cleanings.
• XII - installation of the fixing wire and completion of cleaning.
• XIII - cap.
• XIV - overlap.
• XV–XVI - picurki.
• XVII - a small picurka is lined with iron.
• XVIII - the edges of the side walls are hewn.
• XIX - masonry ledges.
• XX - installation of a corner, duplication of a ledge.
• XXI - chimney overlap.
• XXII - reducing the diameter of the chimney to 0.26x0.13 m.
• XXIII - and all the following rows - is a chimney.

When used for facing clinker bricks, the dimensions of the furnace increase. It is not recommended to use instead of full-bodied. Facing the structure with tiles will ensure a long service life.

The technology for creating stoves for the home is different from the traditional one. Often they use laying rows without using a solution, according to the order. To give the desired shape, the brick is cut and trimmed. The dimensions of the furnace are smaller than the walls of the house and carefully measure the diagonals before building. Check every 4 rows. It is convenient to do this with the help of a stretched cord and a rule.

Using a ready-made solution will help save a lot of time. You will not need to soak the clay for 2 days, filter through a sieve, knead to the desired consistency. To prevent rapid drying, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The absence of rectangular ledges in the design will help save on operating costs. During masonry, control the thickness of the joints, remove excess mortar. When building a furnace, use different materials and for their docking, use different solutions. Fireclay bricks are not tied up with clay bricks, ovens, cast iron and steel plates, rods, water tanks, gratings are not embedded in the masonry. This is due to different rates of expansion of materials at the time of heating.

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Advantages of a brick oven

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to operate, and according to manufacturers, have a greater efficiency (coefficient useful action). But why are bricks still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove “breathes”.

This means that when the furnace is heated, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, the moisture reabsorbs. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. In the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators in heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, air humidity should be optimal for health. The furnace for the house provides optimum humidity of air, at a temperature of warming up about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of economy, than modern systems, with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the heat loss of the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting the size of the furnace surface

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the highest heat transfer. This factor determines when choosing a place.

Different models have different forms:

• Rectangular;
• In the shape of the letter T;
• With a bench or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space separator.

For a small house area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To warm up the entire furnace, a lot of fuel is needed, while the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove, relative to the living rooms, is also important, and the criterion is the insulation of the whole house.

The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classical scheme

The furnace consists of 3 main parts. Furnace body, foundation and chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they make you create heating in the lower part of the room. They perform the function of "legs" in the design;
4. Blew;
5. The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
6. Door for blower;
7. grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Arch of the furnace part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called a hail);
12. door for cleaning;
13. Dusnik pass;
14. Dusnik;
15. Valves regulating the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating, so that the furnace does not cool down.
18. Air outlet door;
19. flue hole;
20. Overlapping (upper part of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the furnace is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (cast iron is best, but it is very expensive, ordinary roofing metal will do), and covered with felt on top. Felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after that they begin laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take on all thermal energy ovens. In simple words"so that the heat does not go into the ground."

masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique hatching from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a solution, a clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the furnaces. Removal of a metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked, knocking to the floor.

Unlike a cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries rather than sets. Therefore, under the constant action of moisture (especially in winter period), the solution soaks. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made of a rounded appearance. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (bottom transition). It is much easier to clean soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

The chimney is laid out of red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the solution is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly, in the event of a soot fire, and thereby gives less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for rain to drain. From the height of the pipe, the draft in the furnace will hang.

Place for the stove in the house

It will depend on the place of installation of the furnace effective work. The best location will be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the outlet, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of full cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location must be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the furnace.
• In front of the door of the furnace part, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (sheet of metal or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for building a furnace

Brick

There are sources on the Internet claiming that brick for furnaces and refractory are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. Dimensions of a conventional single building bricks are 250 by 125 by 65 mm., and the standard oven has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes there are 230 by 114 by 65 mm. In the construction of the furnace, a special high-quality brick of brand 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying furnace channels in the furnace part. It withstands high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not happen. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It does not make sense to build the entire body of the furnace from it, since it is very expensive and has poor strength.

In order to distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality fireclay, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way checks - check to sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be loud and clear, not dull. The last way determining the quality of the material is radical. The brick is broken in half and looked at the break. Qualitative fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in furnace construction. It is that de red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

As sand in cement-sand mortar use quarry sand of medium fraction. It is sifted through a sieve to sift out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn out from heating, due to which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

For laying the furnace, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• cement;
• Lime;
• clays;
• Fireclay.

Clay-based mortar is characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap. Clay can be easily found on almost any land plot after cleaning it up. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. Such a mixture dries out under the action of high temperature, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The stove masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But it is impossible to lay the foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in furnace parts. Such a solution withstands the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but the fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and provide good draft for the firebox.

Brick oven projects examples

Furnace for giving

The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove, 2 by 3 meters in size and with a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the whole body is built from ceramic red.

Such a simple option can easily be made of bricks with their own hands by every beginner, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with ordering, ordinal instruction

Despite the small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm., while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your experience.

For such a furnace, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Material Quantity:

You will need about 210 pieces of ordinary brick, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cu. m. One grate, door for furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick battle.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. On such an oven you can cook food and there is a stove bench in its design. Laying and erection schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is the design feature, due to which it heats only the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What does it consist of:

• A) the ward part;
• B) niche;
• B) six;
• D) bugle;
• D) stuffy part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the crucible.

Large, small and medium-sized furnaces are built according to their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Brick red about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. From steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar, measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on lime mortar with the addition of cement. There is a formation of the ward part;

Row number 2 to number 4 is laid out well. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a lock is being erected for the vault;

Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the stove;

Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made from a special brick;

Row No. 13 the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Row No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 set the vaults of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the walls of the furnace;

Row No. 19 of the wall of the vault;

Row No. 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the hearth;

Row No. 21 align the walls;

Row No. 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the pre-pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is laid in 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying furnaces, you should try to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

kirpichguru.ru

Heating stove by V. Bykov

This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, as it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Thanks to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of ​​​​the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.

For this oven model you will need the following materials:

• Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
• White fireclay brick SHA-8 - 197 pcs.
• Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
• Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, 500 × 700 mm in size - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Bykov furnace ordering

The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.

ordering	Description of works
	According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed.
	2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required.
	3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
	4 row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the grate installed on the same row. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	7th row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used.
	8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks.
	9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme.
	10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks.
	11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks.
	15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the building into two parts - the gas-air upper and the fuel lower. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used.
	17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	18 row - formed horizontal channel furnace, it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used.
	21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls dividing the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	25 row - it completes the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
	26 row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness.
	29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required.
	30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin

Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of ​​the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.

For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:

• Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
• Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
• Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
• Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
• Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
• Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace masonry

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.

So, the laying is done as follows:

• The first, continuous row of the furnace is laid on a roofing material laid on a finished foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is worth marking the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, relying on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
• 2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element is completely embedded. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
• 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

• 4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
• It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos, in order to avoid its premature burnout.

• 6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

• 7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
• 8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
• 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
• 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.

• From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
• 16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber located above hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
• 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
• 19 row. At this stage, two more doors of the cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
• 20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
• 22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
• 23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
• 24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the mortar.

• 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
• 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
• From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
• 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
• 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When passing a pipe through attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swede oven can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.

heating-expert.com

What is home comfort? This is when it is warm in winter and cool in summer, walking on a pleasant to the touch, non-icing floor covering, comfortable furniture and a cozy bed for you and your children. Children fall asleep faster and sleep better when it is warm and comfortable to sleep on soft, children's mattresses. https://mebelsait.dp.ua/detskie-matrasy.

When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is being actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of design, and an economical heating device. For laying the stove, it is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove-makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”.

Properly laying out an oven requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study many instructions for laying brick ovens.

Types of furnaces

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch;
• Russian;
• Swede.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.

Swede

Relate to compact options. In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.

Construction rules

A homemade oven must meet the requirements fire safety. Therefore, you need to give Special attention preparation for construction.

• Decide on the location of the furnace.
• Prepare the correct drawing.
• Buy quality materials for construction.
• Purchase of tools.
• Draw up a cost estimate.

Properly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the type of furnace. It’s difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it’s easier to use a reduced brick oven model, a photo of which is on the Internet.

Choice of working tools

When laying the stove, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

• Jointing - floods the solution into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the oven is left without cladding or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Pickaxe.
• Solution shovel.
• Plumb.
• Furnace line.

materials

The heat transfer and durability of the furnace will depend on the material that was used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to brick, it is used:

• Screened sand.
• Clay - normal fat content.

Foundation for the furnace

The basis for a homemade oven is made at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all free space is poured with a solution of concrete, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontality with the help of a building level.

After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of brick;
• re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.

The recipe for concrete mortar - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. Clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built with solid bricks. The sutures of the first row require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke paths. The chimney is built of red burnt bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “castle” layout.

Photo of brick ovens

The stove - one of the oldest heating systems in a country house - still has not lost its relevance. The furnace design has high productivity and is not demanding on the raw materials used. The main disadvantages of the stove are the inability to control the heating temperature and the difficulty in maintaining a constant fire.

When conducting construction works it is important that the brickwork is perfect the first time, otherwise the structure will have to be disassembled. An improperly designed or assembled stove will become a source of smoke in the room.

Types of furnaces

In the past, houses were built “from the stove”, that is, it was installed first, and then walls and ceilings were erected. These days, it is not necessary to do this, but it is desirable, especially when it is planned to position the stove in such a way that it heats several rooms at once.

The most common types of ovens are Russian, Swedish and Dutch. At the same time, the Russian must be erected before the construction of the house begins, besides, it needs separate foundation. In general, any kiln with 500 or more bricks needs a foundation that is separate from the base of the building. Easier with Dutch and Swedish ovens. They are compact, can be mounted in an already built building and do not need an additional foundation.

There is another wood-burning stove - bell-type. Its advantage is the efficiency, which reaches 70% compared to 50% for other types of furnaces. The disadvantage of such a furnace is a complex device, which is why it is almost impossible to assemble it with your own hands. Also, the stove cannot be equipped with a hob - the design is intended exclusively for space heating.

The structure of the furnaces

Dutch is a classic wood-burning channel stove. Its principle of operation is based on the circulation of hot air along the passages laid in the body of the furnace.

The design of the furnace is quite simple, its masonry can be adapted to the configuration of any type of premises.

But it will not work to mount a tank for heating water: this will lead to a decrease in efficiency due to the accumulation of soot in the channels. In addition, even without a tank, the efficiency of the furnace barely reaches 40%.

In turn, the "Swede" has an efficiency of 60%. It is considered the most advanced heating and cooking oven, where the oven acts as an air chamber. In the chamber part, flue gases burn out, and they go into the convector heated to 800°C. The convector itself is narrow, but has a large height, so that the heating of the house occurs evenly.

The Swede can be equipped with a hot water heat exchanger. The storage tank is placed on the ceiling or in the drying niche. The efficiency does not decrease as a result: there is no energy feedback between the oven and the convector on the one hand and the furnace part on the other.

Instrument preparation

In order to perform bricklaying, you will need the following tools:

• rectangular and acute-angled sledgehammer;
• tamper made of metal or wood;
• stitching for concave and convex seams;
• combined trowel;
• spatula for working with mortar and trowel;
• measuring devices: a rule made of wood or aluminum, a plumb line, a level, a tape measure, a folding ruler, a square.

In addition, guide racks are needed, which will be mounted in the house for the duration of the work. This is required in order for the brickwork to be even. It is impossible to correct skewed corners, so it is better to take care of their correctness in advance. Racks are installed in a strictly vertical position, horizontal bars are attached to them or, even better, wooden formwork.

You can carry bricks with your own hands, but it is better to get a special frame for the tray in advance. The same applies to the solution: when transporting it, it is better to load it into a stretcher.

Selection of bricks and heating elements

For the construction of passages and heated elements of the furnace, refractory bricks are used. Ordinary brick is used for arranging parts that are not exposed to high temperatures. The dimensions of a brick of any type are 250 mm in length, 120 in width and 65 in height. If necessary, brick blocks are broken.

So, a three-quarter brick is distinguished, the length of which is 3/4 of the whole, and a half brick, with a length cut in half. Very small pieces of brick, equal to 1/4 of the whole, are called quarter. The cutting of the material is carried out using a sharp steel knife and a stucco - trimming metal pipe. For the construction of the furnace, metal elements will also be needed, including:

• a door for a furnace, a door for a blower and a door for cleaning passages;
• view valve;
• grate.

All of the listed details must be comparable to the dimensions of the brick blocks. The waterproofing of the furnace is carried out using roofing material. The length of the sheets of this material depends on what dimensions the structure will have. This factor also determines the number of bricks. Usually the number of required building materials indicated in the documentation for the project or calculated on an individual basis. Knowing the number of rows, the dimensions of the brick and the dimensions of the furnace, this is done simply.

Solution preparation

To prepare the solution, you need to stock up on a suitable container, as well as a sieve with 3x3 mm cells. To work with the mixture, you will need a shovel, a drill mixer and a small plank. The composition of the solution will include water, sand and clay. Harvested water must be clean, without the smell of mold and with a minimum amount of mineral additives.

If a tap water contaminated on your site, try to bring it in advance in the right amount. Its volume depends on the number of bricks that the masonry will contain: for example, for every hundred there are from 15 to 20 liters of liquid. The solution requires fine-grained sand. It is sifted through a sieve to remove pieces of rubble and gravel. In addition, it is required to purchase high quality clay: the strength of the solution depends on it.

The preparation of the mixture begins with the fact that water and clay are mixed in such proportions that the mass is not too liquid, but not too thick, homogeneous mass.

After it acquires plasticity, screened sand is added in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water. You can check the readiness of the solution by lowering a board into it: the thickness of the mixture adhering to it should be at least 2 cm. When the desired result is achieved, stop adding sand.

Row laying progress

The construction of the furnace begins with the installation of guide racks. Formwork is attached to them - a wooden box without a bottom. It is needed in order for the masonry to be even. The formwork is designed for several rows: when they are completed, it is lifted up. Also, with its help, vaults and arches are created, however, for this, semicircular formwork is used, and not in the form of a box. When the masonry is above the chest, you will have to work on platforms.

When everything is ready, it is necessary to choose a method of ordering for laying heating furnaces and construction technology. Two options for installing blocks are popular - bonder and spoon. They got their name depending on which part of the brick looks out. There is another way - bed, when the bricks are installed on a spoon or poke, but it is unreliable. To avoid problems, it is recommended to monitor the thickness of the seam: it must be at least 5 mm.

Installation steps

Let us consider in more detail the stages of laying a stove in a house using the example of a Swede. The first layer of brick is the most important, it is laid strictly in compliance with the level. In the place where the ash chamber is located, the brick is not laid. A blower will be located between the chamber and the front side of the furnace, the blocks behind it are cut off at an angle to facilitate the removal of ash. A three-quarter brick is placed in front of the blower.

The second and third rows are laid after the blower is fixed. Otherwise, they are similar to the first. It is important that the height of the third row matches the height of the blower door. In the fourth row, a door is installed for cleaning the moves with your own hands, and the moves themselves are laid out directly behind it. A row of bricks on top covers the blower door.

With each successive row, the opening of the ash pan is narrowed. A grate is installed on the fifth row of bricks. On top of the sixth row above the blower, a combustion chamber door is mounted. It is necessary that its height coincides with the height of the ninth row.

The first ten rows are made of refractory bricks, the next superstructure is made of ordinary building material. On top of the bricks of the tenth row they put hob. In the next rows, the passages for the movement of heated air smoothly turn into a smoke outlet. More detailed diagram The order of the furnace is determined by the configuration and purpose of the structure.

About ten years ago, fireplaces began to be massively sold - these are beautiful fireboxes of various sizes, made with a variety of decorative trim. Due to the variety of types of portals, such fireplaces began to be installed in almost all private houses. Their beauty and high safety (the furnace is closed under glass) attracted many. For several years, they have successfully replaced the old Russian stoves. Till today…

Some history and facts

The stove is part of Russian folklore! There is no exact information when the prototypes of these structures first appeared. However, at first they had a completely different look, little resembling the Russians we are used to. And only recently people began to build them in their design and appearance similar to their counterparts. Today, such structures are part of houses in Russian villages, where there is only stove heating and there is no question of any gas. People use them to heat the house, cook on them, heat food and bake.

What does a traditional Russian stove with a lounger consist of?

The Russian stove is quite massive, its weight reaches several hundred kilograms, so it needs a foundation. In the old days, its role was played by old stones and logs, which were laid out in the base. Today it is reinforced concrete or brick masonry.

It is better to plan construction at the stage of creating a house project. If the building already exists, the foundation still needs to be made strong!

Main elements:

• The lower part is the base (sub-heaters). It has a niche for storing fuel or kitchen utensils. With the help of this base, the combustion chamber rises to the desired height.
• A vault-trough covers the top of the ovens. A layer of sand or clay is poured on it. This technology is used to retain heat.
• The bottom of the firebox (under) is made with a slight slope towards the back wall. This is done so that the fuel burns evenly in the chamber.
• The furnace fire chamber consists of two parts: a cooking chamber and a firebox. The cooking chamber is clean without logs and ash, since the fuel is placed in the far chamber - the firebox.
• Above the firebox there is a vault - this is the overlap that separates the firebox and the lower part of the lounger.
• The lounger can be built along the entire length of the firebox. When a fire burns there, heat spreads to the sunbed.
• The chimney is installed above the first chamber where the food is prepared. Along its course, a valve and a viewing window are installed. With the help of a damper, the intensity of combustion of fuel in the furnace is regulated.

Depending on the design features, they may have steps leading to the sunbed. Also, small shelves are often made along the chimney in order to install decor there.

Modern Russian stoves: what are they?

They may vary in size and functionality. Traditional options have dimensions: length - 2.5 meters, width - 1.5 meters. Products can be of different sizes:

• small (178*124 cm);
• medium (213*147 cm);
• (231*160 cm).

In rare cases, furnaces can be built to non-standard sizes.

But the old ones suited few people - an unattractive appearance, the possibility of cooking only inside the hearth, limited opportunities. Thanks to the work of craftsmen and changes in designs, Russian stoves have regained popularity. They have everything you need to heat your home, cook food and even more.

So the latest additions:

• equipped with a cooking floor. Such designs are multifunctional and can replace any cooking surfaces and stoves;
• with a fireplace. This option is a new trend. Its peculiarity is that the back wall of the furnace structure is displayed in another room through the wall. Thus, it turns out that two are combined in one design: a fireplace with a flame effect and all the great sounds of crackling firewood, as well as a classic Russian stove that heats the house, has a firebox for cooking and a stove for cooking;
• with a bed. In the classic versions, she was very large sizes. Three people could fit on the sunbed. An analogue has a sunbed, but only reduced. It is enough for comfortable arrangement one man. However, this disadvantage can be easily compensated by an attached trestle bed.

According to fire safety rules, all furniture and appliances must be at a distance of 1 meter from the firebox!

Pros and cons of designs

In addition to beauty and warmth, they have some advantages:

• uniform heat transfer and its accumulation;
• high level of efficiency;
• bottom heating. Classical variants were deprived of this. Only after some time, the builders modified the stoves, making them more practical to use. This feature makes it possible to heat the room as a whole;
• high security. Since all structures are laid out of brick, the walls of the furnace do not heat up to such a temperature as to cause a fire or burn;
• built-in hob. Enables housewives to prepare food in their usual way;
• long service life. Properly made design can serve more than 30 years.

Minuses:

• will have to prepare solid fuel for the winter;
• firewood will have to be dried, since it is impossible to put wet firewood in the firebox;
• when heating a house with a Russian stove, excessive garbage from the fuel occurs.

It is impossible to call the Russian stove an ideal device - it has positive sides and non-deliveries. For example, in order to learn how to cook in it, housewives will have to go through a long stage of training. For ignition, firewood will be required, which will have to be harvested. It's certainly not electrical or gas boilers to which everyone is so accustomed. But, the Russian stove also has a lot of positive aspects:

• There is an opportunity to cook great meals. They turn out very tasty and differ from those cooked on stoves;
• depending on the design features, the Russian stove can be equipped with a lounger, which makes it possible to comfortably relax in the cold season. It can also have shelves;
• and finally, the flame effect, the sound of crackling logs and flickering fire - no device can replace this.

Russian stoves in the interior

Despite the development of technology and the appearance on the market of fashionable cast-iron fireboxes, which are framed in various decorative portals, the Russian stove is still popular. Of course, it has changed not only externally, but also structurally. It has become more practical, convenient and safe, in addition, it is used in its design building technology and materials that can increase efficiency, as well as the aesthetic component.

Advantages

Wooden houses - the basis of architecture ancient Russia. And, despite the development of technology and the emergence of building materials from which buildings are built, wood still occupies a special place. Such houses are filled with comfort, and the Russian stove only complements the extraordinary spiritual atmosphere. The installation of a Russian stove in a wooden house must be carried out in compliance with the safety requirements established by our legislation.

brick

Brick is a classic. Previously, such structures were built from home-made clay bricks, which were fired at the stake. Products are large due to the presence of a hob, a baking compartment, a lounger for relaxation.

Brick is a classic

Advantages:

• Brick cools down longer than all other materials. A furnace built from it will give off heat longer after the fire is extinguished. As a result, the rooms will remain warm for a long time.
• A large structure is able to heat even a large house with several floors. This is possible if it is installed in the middle of the house, and the chimney is led up inside the walls that separate the rooms on the second floor. Today, the chimney is no longer made from ordinary brickwork. It is made from galvanized or stainless steel pipes that run in the middle of a compartment located inside the walls. And if ventilation grills are made in the compartments along the chimney, then the heat emanating from the chimney will spread throughout the premises.
• The brick does not heat up to a temperature that can create a fire. This building material is quite durable and practical. It can be used as a base for applying decorative plaster, tiling and other finishing materials. In addition, it is able to serve without restoration for 30 years.
• The cost of such a design is not high in comparison with the purchase of a cast-iron firebox and a marble portal. It is worth noting that most of the cost is given to the creation of a quality foundation.

Unfortunately, like others, brick ones are not without flaws. The main one can be attributed to the fact that for a brick structure it will be necessary to build a powerful foundation. It can be a monolithic or reinforced concrete structure. If you install a brick without a foundation, the floor under its mass can sag.

Precautionary measures

A Russian brick oven can not be installed in all parts of the house. The place directly depends on the structural features of the building. It is better when the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding appears at the stage of designing a house. Then it is possible to correctly calculate the location, as well as make an appropriate foundation.

If the house has already been built, then it will be necessary to disassemble the floor in the place where the hearth will be installed to the base and make scaffolding.

Other options

Among the variety of options for installing heating systems in wooden houses, it is worth highlighting two main ones:

Fireplace stoves- iron fireboxes with a large viewing window. They can have a hob and are not framed by anything. Minus - the walls of the structure are very hot and can cause burns or fire.

Cast iron fireboxes- beautiful fireplaces that can heat large rooms. Many manufacturers make fireboxes of different sizes, having lifting mechanisms to open the firebox, the protective glass can be oval, prismatic or straight. The furnaces are equipped with a sliding damper, a mechanism for adjusting the intensity of combustion. Minus - the high cost of furnaces and portals.

Recently, these options have become less commonly used for installation in private homes. Despite their attractiveness, they are inferior to traditional Russian stoves in many respects.

decorative trim

Building materials make it possible to finish the furnace in the most different styles. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the stability of the brick, as well as the solutions used in its laying to various negative influences.

Truly Russian style: hut and tiles

In the old days, one material was traditionally used - this is a mud hut (plaster made on the basis of clay). Then it was covered with ordinary whitewash. This method of finishing is not durable, since during kindling, smoke settles on the surface, making the whitewash gray. Although it is necessary to highlight the beauty of the painting of such stoves, attractiveness and a truly Russian style. At present, rarely anyone uses this method of decoration, as practicality is increasingly preferred.

The most common classic version, is the decor using ceramic elements made in the form of boxes. The main advantage of this material is attractiveness, as well as practicality. Tiles are able to retain their original appearance for a long time. The main disadvantage is the high price

Peculiarities:

• lining is laid from the bottom up;
• a special gypsum composition is used for grouting;
• There are a variety of tile patterns on the market. It can be both smooth tiles and embossed with different patterns.

Using tiles for decoration, it is possible to choose the desired color, pattern, relief so that it fits the overall style of the room. This is the best material for decorating Russian-style stoves.

Modern materials

A variety of materials makes it possible to decorate a Russian stove in any style. All this allows it to harmoniously fit into absolutely any interior. Among the most common it is worth highlighting:

These materials are very practical and reliable. To give them a new look, it is enough to wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth. However, they are not without drawbacks. Some, such as ceramic tiles or granite, cannot fit harmoniously into any style.

Plaster and paint

The plaster and paint look very nice. This method of decoration for interiors in a minimalist style. In this case, the choice of color and texture is limited only by the flight of fancy and the general style of the room. With the help of paint and plaster, you can visually reduce the size of the furnace or, on the contrary, increase it. Plaster and paint are often used to create Russian-style decor. It allows you to make various drawings and patterns on its surface.

Return of traditions

It cannot be said that the Russian stove in the house is a museum piece that unexpectedly returned from the past. In fact, it has not disappeared anywhere, moreover, it is part of some Russian hinterlands that are unfamiliar with main gas.

The mass return of the Russian nurse to the houses spoiled by civilization is not a tribute to fashion. Most likely, the desire of people to feel comfortable and cozy in the house, fill it with a pleasant aroma of baking and meet the family in front of the hearth plays a role here. open fire for a delicious dinner cooked in a real Russian oven. After all, not a single miracle of technology will give those sensations and emotions that people experience at the sight of a flame.

A Russian stove, finished with high-quality material, does not look like an alien in the house. Today it has become more compact, practical and durable. A wood-burning stove, depending on its design features, is placed not only in the kitchen, but also in the living room, dining room. For the convenience of housewives, craftsmen integrate everything necessary into them, up to hoods.

A Russian stove without built-in hobs can easily take center stage in a library or bedroom. A lounger can easily replace even the most comfortable armchair or even a sofa.

To choose the most suitable project for your home, you need to consider several options in detail. They differ in size, functionality, and of course cost.

Arrangement of the Russian stove in country house This is a job for professionals only. Regardless of the skills in construction, the construction of such a structure requires not only skills, but also knowledge of features, as well as technologies.

"Ala-rus" - designer hit

This model has a fairly compact size. It does not have additional equipment, such as a hob, a large lounger, or the ability to observe the flame effect. This option is suitable for a small kitchen. Such a stove is decorated with decorative elements that are associated with Russia. It looks light and charming in a wooden house. Peculiarities:

• despite the primary simplicity of decor, such a stove should not be overloaded with accessories. A few decorations will suffice;
• it can be installed not only under the wall. Due to its compactness, it will look good in the center of the kitchen, if the area allows.

This option is budget. And if you want a Russian stove in the house, but at the same time the means do not allow luxury, you can stop at this option.

Russian hut - classic style

This design is best suited for houses in rustic style. These can be buildings made of logs, wood, or have an appropriate interior. Classic style- This is a stove made of brick, trimmed with decorative elements.

An excellent option would be to use tiles. They are able to decorate the stove and give it a native Russian flavor. Such ovens are functional - there is a hob, a large and comfortable lounger. You can install it in such a way that the functional part is in the kitchen, and the decorative firebox is in the living room. This will make it possible to enjoy the effect of an open flame and a slight crackle of firewood.

Terem - wealth and luxury

A large Russian stove, reminiscent of illustrations from old Russian fairy tales. The design, made in this style - a bright accent in any room. It will look beautiful both in a classic interior and in a modern one.

Characteristics:

• decoration with a huge number of tiles is allowed. They will only add fabulousness to the design;
• the design is quite large, so it is suitable only for large rooms;
• many others can use decorative ornaments they will not overload the structure.

This model can be equipped with a hob, a large lounger that can be decorated with light fabrics. Often, designers suggest installing it near the wall and taking the furnace part to the next room. This will make it possible to get a multifunctional Russian stove in the kitchen and a beautiful fireplace in the living room at the same time.

Where to install a Russian stove?

Today it is difficult to surprise someone with the presence of a fireplace or a cast-iron firebox. Almost all country houses are built with these structures in mind. But the Russian stove will cause not only surprise, but also admiration.

At the moment when the question arises of installing it in a country house, nuances immediately arise that no one had thought about before.

It is better when the issue of installing a Russian stove is decided at the planning stage of a country house, since there are nuances that are better to solve right away.

In the living room

The living room is the calling card of any home and a private house not an exception. In this room, it will be a bright accent that attracts the eye. Therefore, you do not need to look for too modest design options. Its size must be chosen depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room.

All pieces of furniture should be at a distance from the structure.

Depending on the interior and the size of the room, stoves can be different designs with and without a hob. Stoves can be installed in the living room:

• If it is large and has a fairly bright design, for example, decorated with tiles, all other furniture in the living room should be muted tones. Shouldn't be used bright decor, saturated colors. Then they will not distract attention from the main element in this room. The bed can be decorated with blankets self made, beautiful and bright pillows . The light is better to use muted. They have additional shelves and a large bed. There is no cooking surface and baking compartments - only one compartment for cooking.
• The Russian stove in the interior should look more modest. For decoration, you can use artificial stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles. The strict design of the stove is in harmony with expensive furniture. Such designs should not have a hob and baking compartments. But the presence of a large couch is mandatory.
• The main part of the stove is in the kitchen, and the furnace part is taken out into the living room. The furnace part can be framed in marble if the interior of the living room matches or it can be made similar to a fireplace. In addition to it, you can install special sets for the fireplace: firewood, broom, scoop, poker. In the immediate vicinity of it, you can put a beautiful carpet on the floor or install a soft and cozy sofa. However, do not forget about the rules of fire safety. If the firebox is open, you need to install a protective mesh or glass.

Installation in the kitchen

The choice of a Russian stove for the kitchen depends on the size of the room. If it is large, you can install a large oven that will be multifunctional:

• baking department;
• cooking surface of several plates;
• compartment for dishes;
• large bed for several people.

If a design is chosen for wooden house, it is better to give preference to a truly Russian style. The decor can be done in several ways: using building materials (plaster and paint) or traditional mud hut. Such designs will harmoniously look and fill the kitchen with coziness and comfort.

The kitchen is the perfect place for this product

Features and nuances:

• Do not install in close proximity to the stove Appliances. This may cause a fire.
• The dining area should be in the distance. Otherwise, it will be very hot to be at the table.
• The kitchen should be bright and spacious. Therefore, if its dimensions are insufficient, it is better to leave the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding.
• The Russian stove in the kitchen should not be overloaded with unnecessary decorative elements. She herself will act as a bright accent.
• If this room is spacious enough, you can use bright decor on the stove. These can be Russian-style decorations or tiles with beautiful patterns.

Conclusion

A Russian stove in a country house is an opportunity to fill it with warmth and comfort. However, before its construction, everything must be carefully planned, especially if the construction will be carried out already in a residential building.

Pitfalls that can be encountered during construction:

• Such a design will harmoniously look only in rooms with a large area. Otherwise, there is a chance to turn the kitchen or living room into a room of aesthetic shame.
• Do not console yourself with the hope that you can build such a structure yourself without skills in construction. Here are some examples of how one wrong step can spoil the whole creation. The chimney must be at a certain distance from the ridge, and depending on this, have a certain length. Otherwise, all the smoke and fumes will not be in the chimney, but in your room. The foundation must be calculated to the smallest detail, otherwise you risk the integrity of your floor.
• In view of this, construction should be trusted only to professionals. You can only choose the design of the furnace, the availability of certain functionalities.

The Russian stove in the house brings not only color, but also many opportunities, but only if it is built by professionals. Advantages of the Russian stove in the house:

• The food cooked in the hearth of the oven cannot be compared in taste with any other. Not a single restaurant in Russia will prepare such delicious pastries or other dishes for you.
• If the stove is properly built, it is able to heat not only the first floor of your house, but also the second, third. But only along the chimney. However, the first floor, even with severe frost, will be warm.
• The Russian stove will heat the room much faster than fireplaces, gas heating or any other.

If you are thinking about arranging a stove in your home, plan everything carefully, think it over. Only the right approach to the construction of a Russian stove will give the expected result. The work should be entrusted to professionals who have experience in construction and know everything about the construction and installation features of such structures.