Is it possible to build a bathhouse? A bathhouse made of foam blocks is planned: pros and cons, is it possible to build it from this building material? Sand and gravel base

The cheapness of foam concrete makes it increasingly popular among Russians who have decided to build a bathhouse on their site.

At the same time, some have already been built, while others are just thinking about what is better to invest in and are leaning towards the block one.

The latter really should think carefully and weigh everything, because this material for construction is quite controversial. Some express delight, others criticize. We suggest weighing the pros and cons. And you can get food for thought from our article.

Is it possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks?

Of course, there is no insurmountable obstacle to building with foam blocks. There are a number of disadvantages that (with some effort) can be reduced to almost nothing. That's why most of thinking is related to the cost-effectiveness of such efforts.

However, there is simply no material without shortcomings, which means that you will have to accept the associated labor, financial and time costs.

On the other hand, some are quite happy with their bathhouse from. In addition, there are options: not everyone puts a separate bathhouse on the site, some make it part of the house. In this case, the material is justified - bathhouses are fire hazardous, and foam blocks do not burn.

The climate of the area also matters: where winters are mild, you can build with this material without hesitation (foam concrete has low frost resistance).

Another important question: is it enough for the future owner of a bathhouse that a foam block bathhouse will probably last 15 years on average? On the other hand, the investment is small, so hardly anyone has any illusions about the durability of such a structure. So, if you are considering a bathhouse made of foam blocks, everyone needs to weigh the pros and cons independently.

However, it’s time to show the situation as it is.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks: pros and cons

How to level out the disadvantages

The attitude towards the disadvantages should be optimistic: they can all be corrected to one degree or another. The question: is it possible to build a bathhouse from foam blocks, is still not closed. Let's look point by point at all the disadvantages of foam concrete mentioned in the table.

Non-uniform thermal conductivity

As stated in the table, this is a consequence of technology, but still It’s better to buy foam concrete at the factory than from those who make it without complying with GOST.

Water absorption

Protection against water consists of two “lines of defense”:

1. It is necessary to treat the walls with a water repellent- this is a substance that repels water, but does not in any way affect the ability of the material to “breathe”.
2. After that cover the walls with a water barrier and a vapor barrier, which are parts of a regular insulating “pie”.

Both will significantly increase the durability of a foam concrete bath.

Insulation of a bathhouse wall made of foam block includes vapor barrier, details.

External insulation pie, more information.

Frost resistance

Since we are talking about the freezing of water inside the wall and the freeze-thaw cycles, then , protection from moisture and proper ventilation will help get rid of water before it begins to show its destructive properties when turning into ice.

Glue costs

The price of glue is twice as high as cement mortar, but the thickness of the glue layer does not exceed 5 mm, which means We are not talking about a significant increase in costs.

Tolerance to fungi

The fungus affects any surface if there is high humidity in the room. To combat it, antiseptics are used, but at the same time it is necessary to eliminate the problem of excess moisture. In the bath it means drying and airing.

Rodent resistance

The only thing they are not able to chew through is a metal mesh, so where rodent control is important, you will have to reinforce the bottom of the wall with such a mesh, or at least the places they have chosen for passage.

Fastening problem

At the same time, let us also mention that a nail driven into a wall made of foam concrete will not hold, although it will be easy to drive it in. It's "curable" special dowels with an ABC plastic cap. The screw is first screwed into the plastic, and then they are screwed together in advance drilled hole in foam concrete. Such fasteners will hold well.

How to build correctly

Bathhouse made of foam blocks presents special requirements to technological and geometric accuracy during construction. Therefore, it is worth briefly going over the important points.

Foundation

Since foam blocks weigh little, and bathhouses are not multi-story (maximum 2 floors), the load on the foundation will not be large. Therefore, lightweight options are made with a pit only 60 cm deep.

IMPORTANT! Wherein Special attention attention should be paid to leveling - it is worth taking measurements more often and using a laser or other level.

Wall insulation

This is a necessary procedure that will not only keep the rooms warm, but also protect the wall material from moisture. produced inside and outside. Internal insulation is possible.

The exterior is done using the ventilated facade method, using the following:

• mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• jute felt, which is used for ;
• Styrofoam.

IMPORTANT! At internal insulation foam is not used.

You can use the same ones, with the mentioned exception. It is installed in the steam room and washing room as a vapor barrier. should be chosen especially carefully. In order for the walls to dry, vents are made in them. Instead of ordinary films, it is better to use a membrane as a waterproofing agent. depends on the tasks assigned.

When thermally insulating baths, an integrated approach is important, i.e. insulation of all parts of the structure.

Some buildings on a land plot are subject to mandatory registration. First of all, these are capital buildings and large objects. But many people ask whether it is necessary to register a bathhouse on a summer cottage, or whether a permit is needed to build a bathhouse on the site. It depends on the purpose of operation of the building, the size and dimensions of the object. Let's look at these issues in more detail.

When can you build a bathhouse on the site?

Before building a bathhouse, you need to figure out whether it is possible to build on this land. Construction is permitted on the following types of sites:

• Individual housing construction - plots for individual housing construction that belong to a specific locality (city, town, town, etc.);
• Private household plot is a personal subsidiary plot where the construction of a residential building and other buildings is permitted. This land is also used for training. agriculture without the purpose of making a profit;
• Dacha plots allow the construction of residential and commercial buildings, gardening and keeping livestock. They include SNT (garden non-profit partnership), dacha cooperatives, etc.. Today summer cottages are equal in rights to individual housing construction.

Other categories of land are not intended for construction. For example, there are territories exclusively for agricultural purposes. Then you need to design the future bathhouse. The design and functional purpose of the building will determine whether a building permit is required and whether registration of the facility is required.

We note right away that capital buildings with a second or attic floor, living rooms and connected communication networks require a mandatory permit for construction. Registration of a bathhouse on your site is necessary if it is a capital construction project, you want to confirm ownership and in the future you plan to take actions with the object and site (sell, insure, donate or inherit).

Permission to build a bathhouse

There is no need to register sheds, temporary and outbuildings, gazebos and other objects that are not related to capital construction on the land plot. Such objects are distinguished a light weight, absence of utility networks, living quarters and foundation, or a lightweight shallow foundation with a laying depth of up to 1 meter is allowed.

You do not need permission to build a garage on your own plot without the purpose of carrying out business activities and making a profit.

Permission is required for permanent buildings and buildings with residential premises. Standard compact lightweight bathhouse with a shallow foundation and no connection engineering communications does not require a building permit. This is an auxiliary building that can be safely erected on the site of individual housing construction, SNT, private household plots, or a dacha cooperative.

But today, spacious and comfortable baths with all amenities are in demand. They have a solid foundation, water supply and sewerage, electricity and other utilities. Two-story bathhouses and projects with an attic include a rest room, several bathrooms and even a kitchen. For such buildings you must obtain permission!

In addition, you need to obtain permission for bathhouses that are attached to residential building. In this case, the building plan is changed, which is then approved by the relevant authorities. This takes into account the increase in area, the impact of the extension on the strength of the foundation and walls, and compliance with sanitary and fire safety requirements.

Thus, a building permit is required for capital construction projects, namely for a bathhouse with a second or attic floor and living rooms, with connected communication networks and a solid foundation. In addition, permission is required for a bathhouse attached to a residential building.

How to obtain permission to build a bathhouse

If a permit is required for the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to collect and submit the required documents to the authority local government, where this land plot is located, or to the nearest MFC. To obtain a permit, the following documents are required:

• Application for permission to build on a land plot (sample and form can be found on the Internet);
• A document that confirms the right to own a land plot;
• Plan land plot;
• Project documentation, which includes an explanatory note, information about utility networks, a diagram of the location of buildings on the site, etc.;
• A positive conclusion on the design documentation, if expertise is required.

If you submit documents through a representative, a power of attorney must be drawn up. The municipal authority considers the application for ten days and then makes a decision. The permit is valid for ten years from the date of receipt and is issued free of charge without state duty.

Bathhouse registration

You need to register capital buildings, regardless of their purpose, if you want them to be your property. The right of ownership gives the opportunity to dispose of property in full. In the future, you can easily sell, donate, inherit, and even insure the built bathhouse.

Modern legislation allows you to register ownership of objects located on a purchased or received land plot. This could be a bathhouse and garage, animal enclosures, gazebos and utility blocks, garden and country houses, residential cottages.

Whether to register a bathhouse, garage and other similar buildings is up to each owner to decide for himself. Note that if this is a light structure without a solid foundation up to 1 meter deep, utility networks and living quarters, there is no point in registering. Moreover, you need to pay a separate tax for each registered object!

In this case, the bathhouse is one of the outbuildings that automatically become property along with the land plot. Of course, if the plot itself is registered as a property. Therefore, whether an object needs registration depends on its type and purpose. You can choose a solid capital structure or a compact building. You will find many interesting projects of bathhouses with one and two floors, with recreation rooms, a terrace and an attic in the catalog of the company “MariSrub”.

Registration is required for a bathhouse with communication networks, living quarters, a deep foundation, i.e. if it is a permanent structure. Also subject to registration are bathhouses attached to a residential building or buildings whose layout includes a bathhouse inside the house.

How to register a bathhouse on a plot of land

You can register a bathhouse using a cadastral passport or a declaration in a simplified manner. To register, you need to make the necessary measurements, a technical passport, and link the object to the land plot. Thus, to obtain ownership of a bathhouse, you must provide the following documents:

• Application for state registration of property rights (sample and form can be found on the Internet);
• A document confirming ownership of the land plot;
• Passport of the applicant or representative;
• Land cadastral plan;
• Cadastral or technical passport of the object (for non-residential objects - a declaration, a sample and form of which can be obtained from the BTI);
• Receipt for payment of state duty. State duty for real estate registration for individuals is 2000 rubles, for registration of a land plot - 350 rubles.

To obtain ownership rights to a previously built bathhouse, outbuildings, garage or garden house According to the dacha amnesty, which is valid until 2018, there is no need to provide a building permit. However, if this is a new building, or you are just planning to build a capital facility, permission is required.

If you submit documents through a representative, a power of attorney must be drawn up. Documents are submitted to the MFC or the Registration Chamber. The application is reviewed within a month.

Requirements for the construction of a bathhouse

In order to obtain a construction permit, issue a technical passport and design documentation for registering ownership rights, during construction you must comply with construction, technical and sanitary standards. These are the following rules and recommendations:

• The bathhouse is located at a distance of at least 3 meters from the neighboring plot and at least 5 meters from the residential building. It is desirable that it be visible from the windows of a residential building;
• The structure is installed at a distance of at least 20 meters from reservoirs and wells to avoid water pollution;
• It is advisable to carry out construction on a slightly elevated and flood-free place;
• When constructing a wooden bath, wood elements must be processed special composition, which will prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire;
• The ceiling of the facility is insulated using fireproof materials. It is advisable to protect the area where the chimney meets the ceiling with a layer of sand with a radius of 70 centimeters to prevent fire if cracks form and damage the chimney;
• To install a chimney, you cannot use asbestos-cement pipes, which quickly collapse due to exposure to high temperatures.
• It is not recommended to use metal constructions, as they become very hot and increase the fire hazard;
• Areas that border furnaces are provided with fire barriers made of plaster, tin and metal sheets or other similar materials;
• A pre-furnace sheet with parameters of at least 60x70 cm must be laid in front of the firebox of the stove. The wide side is placed along the stove;
• Doors are installed so that they open outward;
• There must be a fire extinguisher and ventilation holes in the room;
• Grounding and insulating wires are mandatory conditions for installing and conducting electricity in a bathhouse.

When designing, it is important to take into account not only the layout and number of floors, but also sanitary and fire safety requirements. Therefore, it is better to turn to professionals. The masters of the MariSrub company will perform a full range of work, which includes creating a project, installing the foundation and erecting a log house, installing and connecting utility networks, and finishing!

The MariSrub company necessarily complies with the requirements and safety standards of sanitary and technical rules. We provide technical documentation and treat wood with protective compounds. We will build any type of bathhouse, including permanent buildings and compact courtyard buildings. An experienced architect will create individual project or make changes to the standard version.

In Rus', baths were called differently: istka, lazne, soap. Healing properties water, steam, and hot stones were known to Russian people for a long time, so bathhouses in Rus' were able to be built everywhere. The love for cleanliness and healing bath procedures is still alive in us. Consequently, baths are an integral part in the construction of a country house.

In this article you will learn how to properly build a Russian bathhouse and what mistakes should not be made during its construction.

If you want to get a house or a bathhouse in perfect quality, save time on learning technologies, then order from an experienced company. Specialists are good at building objects of any level of complexity.

Helpful information:

1 mistake - poor quality foundation

2nd mistake – cutting for a log house

Nowadays, you can most often find a log house for a bath made of pine or spruce. In Rus' it was the other way around: people built houses from coniferous trees, but they built bathhouses from linden or aspen.

Conifers have a great charge of energy, are good at toning and stimulating vital processes in the body. Baths exist in order to relieve stress, and for this, the best types of wood with an energy-negative or neutral charge, such as linden or aspen.

Aspen wood does not splinter or wrinkle, plus it is well preserved in water, and when dry it does not crack or warp. The baths have very high humidity, so an aspen log house is very suitable for its construction. Over the years, the bathhouse will not rot; it may only become dilapidated and require minor repairs.

3 mistake - incorrectly erected log house

The frame of a bathhouse is its body, so it is very important that it is made according to all the rules. It is best to harvest trees for felling in winter, when the movement of sap in them is minimal. Logs from such a forest are as strong as armor and will not develop cracks or splinters. Therefore, before purchasing timber for construction, ask when it was cut down.

The sauna stove is heated all year round and therefore think through fire safety very important. It is necessary that the chimney is located in the place where it passes through the roof. It must be taken into account that from the chimney to wooden parts must be at least 38 centimeters. The brick for the chimney must be of high quality without cracks, chips, or cracks. It is important that the pipe in the attic is whitewashed. If cracks form, it will be clearly visible on the white pipe.

5 error - poor quality stove fittings

All fittings for the furnace are installed during laying; it is very important to check their quality before installation. The gate valve, the sheet with which it is closed, the grate, i.e. all cast iron fittings are checked for sound by hitting it. The sound should be clear and clear, this means that the product is of high quality. We check the functionality of all locks on the furnace or blower door so that the door opens well and nothing gets stuck.

6 mistake - illiterate oven lining

The surface of the stove does not need to be plastered, but it is even necessary to line it with porcelain or clay tiles. Brick absorbs steam very well, which is in the bathhouse and, therefore, destruction of the stove may occur due to temperature changes. By placing the stove in a tile, you can avoid this, plus it will become more energy-intensive and will emit soft heat.

Tiles can be highly artistic (hand-painted) or simple. Porcelain tiles coated with glaze are best suited for the stove; they absorb moisture well and are easy to clean. If you decide to use clay tiles, then you need to make sure that the clay was fired at a temperature above 1000 degrees.

7 mistake - quality of fuel for the bath

The fuel for the bathhouse also needs to be selected. You cannot heat a bathhouse with coniferous trees; they produce a lot of soot, which settles on the walls of the stove and becomes a fire hazard. For a good hot bath, middle-aged oak is suitable (young wood will not give the required temperature), birch with a humidity of 25% or lower and, of course, alder, which invigorates and heals colds. Firewood is harvested in hot weather, when it is dry, then you can see where the rot is present. You can also prepare it in cold weather by first knocking on the trunk. If the sound is dull, then the trunk is rotten, but a ringing and long sound will tell you which tree you need. You cannot use willow - it is bitter. Ash firewood burns out too quickly.

8 error – contents of the heater

The contents of the heater, the stones on which we apply water to produce steam, are very important. The choice of stones is now huge, but there are subtleties that you need to know. The stone must be checked before using it in the bath. Before your sauna exercise, light the stove, heat the stones and test them. After 500-600 degrees, soot begins to burn out of the stone. Pouring on stones hot water 70 degrees (never cold - the stone will crack), steam will begin to release. The main thing here is to determine whether the steam is pure or mixed; to do this, you can hang a white sheet in front of the stones and after the steam has dissipated, see whether it is clean or not. If you find dirt or soot on the sheets, then it is better to remove such a stone, it contains many volatile fractions that are harmful to the body. But if you decide to leave such stones, then it is better to test them several times, perhaps after 3-4 times the impurities will come out of the stones. Then we select the broken and scattered stones and leave the most durable ones.

Advice for those who like to breathe in aromatic oils. Do not pour oil on the stones - there is no effect. It is best to spray the walls of the steam room or add it to water with a broom, only in this case you will receive the benefits and aroma from the oils.

9 error - incorrect ventilation system

The bathhouse needs to be ventilated differently from living quarters. Everything that we get rid of in the bathhouse: dirt, sweat, various toxins falls to the floor, so ventilation in the bathhouse should be organized at the bottom. But the influx fresh air should be on top, preferably already heated. If the ventilation is not organized correctly, then in the steam room you begin to inhale what comes out of you and begin to feel discomfort. In the bath you need to have fun, and not bring yourself to a state of fainting, therefore, proper ventilation is very important.

Error 10 – incorrect door location

The door from the steam room must open outward. If you have over-vaporized or received a dose due to a poor-quality stove or poor ventilation carbon monoxide, then go outside at correct location the door can be opened with a simple movement of the hand, pushing the door.

So, if you want to improve your health, get maximum pleasure, relax and unwind in the bathhouse, do not make the mistakes mentioned above, and your bathhouse will always charge you with joy, vigor and health. Good luck.

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Not everyone has the desire or ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bathhouse. And in most parts of our country, sometimes it’s simply necessary to warm up. The only way out is to build a sauna inexpensively, with your own hands. There is a sufficient quantity building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but free-standing baths, then frame and monolithic are considered the most budget-friendly technologies. Cheap baths are often made on wooden frame, sheathed with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Insulation is placed inside between the two skins.

One of the options frame structure- with planking

In monolithic construction, the most popular for the construction of baths is arbolite - a mixture of cement and sawdust. Sawdust can be completely free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit your pocket hard. Removable formwork is placed around the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and compacted. The next batch is mixed. It's that simple. The disadvantage of this material is considered to be flammability, but wooden and frame baths are also flammable. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete - warm, natural material which consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

Polystyrene concrete (granulated foam plastic mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bathhouse. However, this material itself makes it possible to obtain a cheap and lightweight building, which, if properly finished, will only delight the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low price and good thermal characteristics, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions in which forest is still the most cheap material. It might be cheaper to put a chopped sauna in them. From round timber or from timber - this is optional. The advantage of this solution is that it is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemicals in order to preserve appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped saunas have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are built and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin insulation and Finishing work. The second disadvantage is that it needs to be updated regularly. protective covering, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But on their own wooden baths very good special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive wall construction technology is not everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because lightweight foundations can be made for them. In some places a columnar one is sufficient, in others a pile or pile-grillage structure is sufficient. Any of the above walls can coexist quite normally with them, leveling out their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage different points supports).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and on particularly heaving or unstable soils a monolithic slab may be required. On such grounds, to the wall construction technologies listed above, you can add building blocks- foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at your dacha you want to build a mini-bathhouse, a very small cabin in size, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, barn or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate well and install the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bathhouse step by step - photo report

The initial data is as follows: the bathhouse is no more than 4*5 meters in size, the budget is small - no more than $200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Having brought all this together, it was decided to build a frame bathhouse on a columnar foundation.

The bathhouse itself turned out to be 5*3 m, plus a terrace 1 meter wide on the long side. It was decided to make the pillars for the bathhouse from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, for the terrace from 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 more additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig below the freezing depth - for this region 140 cm. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bathhouse is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each column. 4 rods are tied, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then safely weld the harness.

The concrete was ordered ready-made, grade M250. Formwork was placed along the perimeter between the pillars and a boot was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bathhouse floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete had gained enough strength and work continued. A frame was welded from a 70*70 mm corner with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the fittings to the corner shelves.

It must be said right away that this foundation is redundant in terms of bearing capacity. It is possible to build a two-story heavy building on it, rather than a light one-story frame. But, since they were doing it “for themselves,” and there was also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to have heated floors in the washing room and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself without steaming, but doing it on a heated floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing and reinforcing mesh are placed on top, pipes are attached to it, and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Naturally, the heated floor was not poured under the stove.

Another week later, when the concrete had gained enough strength (they did not cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on constructing the frame. For the racks we used timber 150*150 mm, spacers - board 50*150 mm (again a significant margin of strength, but this was out of a desire to build a good bathhouse).

The bathhouse was built mainly alone, so a sequential installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then in those places where doors and windows will be installed or adjoining partitions. If as a result there are gaps of more than 1 meter somewhere, additional racks are installed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of very powerful timber, intermediate ones were not installed, and the rigidity of the structure was given by bevels.

Next, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on your head, we began making the roof of the bathhouse. It is made at the most budget level - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15°. To ensure this slope, the beams for the racks were made in advance of different lengths.

A top trim board is nailed to the posts at the same level, and they are attached to it. ceiling beams. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. A continuous sheathing is placed on top under the roofing material.

Rafter system pitched roof very easy to make

After the roof was ready, the walls were sheathed with OSB, and then the floor was laid on the remaining part of the bathhouse.

Next stage- furnace laying. This is a long process - it took a whole month. The stove is folded with a closed heater. In the formation zone chimney There is a built-in cast iron box in which the stones are placed. There is a door leading into the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for the heated floor (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, therefore there are two operating modes - summer without floor heating, and winter, with “turning on” the heating of the register. Transfer from one mode to another using a valve.

Next comes the finishing work, and it will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. When insulating walls and ceilings, it was used mineral wool. The thickness of the layer on the walls in “cold rooms” is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling – 150 mm. The steam room is lined with kraft paper on top of the insulation.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are covered with OSB, with cork glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued to OSB, the “dry” part is covered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washing area - dry area and shower

The steam room is filled first with lathing for clapboard cladding, then with wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two can be accommodated comfortably, three are more difficult, but also quite comfortable. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly “in one hand.” The assistants were present only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they must stand 100% vertically).

Video example of building a bathhouse from monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive 3*6 sauna with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bathhouse was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains and dried for about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and sink are made of logs, and the relaxation room is built on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3*3 m. Construction began with markings: 6*3 in plan.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep and install the formwork. The width of the tape was taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side and lining on the other. About how to do

We leave it to winter in this form - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building and cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to do a budget ceiling lining - put short boards between the rafters. They can be bought very inexpensively. We process it and cut it to the required length. We fill the rafters with support bars, to which we attach boards cut to size from below.

The outside of the Yuan was covered with siding - both the frame part and the frame. It turned out far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Budget sauna do it yourself - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started covering the interior. We fill the sheathing and the lining on it.

The inside of the rest room was lined with clapboard

Let's move on to finishing the steam room. First we covered everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated glass door, and “washing” zones. In the washing room we will line the wall with moisture-resistant plasterboard, onto which we will then glue tiles, and in the steam room with clapboard.

We cover the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for installing the stove. She will drown herself from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the stove and install it. We line the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

That’s it for the main work, all that’s left are the decor and all sorts of things - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.”