How to close up under the battery. Wall cladding in hard-to-reach places. Did you know what. How to finish the wall behind the battery under the window. Wall cladding methods. Preparing to create a drywall box How to finish the wall behind the battery before puttying
In the recent past, during the construction and decoration of new houses, batteries were hung on the walls without any aesthetic preparation of the latter; in the future, these sections of the walls were either glued with wallpaper or painted, as far as one could reach or crawl under the battery. Today, finishing the wall behind the battery is an integral part of the repair, and this operation should not be neglected.
In most cases, finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be done through installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out it either before installing new radiators, or to remove the radiators for the duration of the work, having previously made marks on the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface being trimmed.
Painting, wallpapering behind the battery are only temporary options for finishing, due to the inaccessibility of cleaning in these places, wall sections finished in this way quickly become unusable. In any case, over time, this place changes are possible that will not be on other surfaces, since there are high temperatures. Experts recommend laying ceramic tiles behind the battery, durable and undemanding to clean.
Reasons for:
- tiles can be washed without fear of damage
- no fungus
- aesthetic and beautiful
- the heat from the battery does not go into the wall, but is reflected into the room, which means savings in heating costs.
For work you will need
Materials: ceramic tiles, plaster, corner/profile, battery, battery hooks.
Tools: spatula, sandpaper, drill.
The first thing to do is prepare the surface. We get rid of old batteries, wallpaper, "breathing" parts on the wall.
If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of the radiator installation and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the level of the floor and the height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because. if tiles get in its way, the plinth will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which can adversely affect the appearance of the finish.
We start work from the bottom. We beat off the level of passage of the tile and fasten the bar of the required length with dowels to the wall. Its length should be a little more than the area to be trimmed and have a margin on the right and left sides. After that, you can start finishing, after pre-priming the walls. We apply the solution to the first tile and mount it on the wall, placing it on a bar and orienting it along the side mark.
Next, the surface of the tile is set according to the level, if necessary, it must be knocked out in protruding places, or add a solution where it is missing. After that, the tile is set horizontally, if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the tile and the bar. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the bar with the help of a level and wedges.
The decoration of the wall behind the battery continues in this way up to the window sill. On the last row, the tiles, if necessary, are cut with a tile cutter to the desired size. After the tile mortar has dried, the tile joints are grouted with a special antifungal putty (we select the color for the tile). When it dries, you can begin to install the radiator in place.
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - it depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combination ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time.
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - it depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combination ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time. For example, you can shield areas that should not get paint. Try to foresee everything in advance and have at your disposal all the necessary devices.
Coloring hard to reach places wall decoration behind the battery)
To paint the wall behind the radiator, it is best, of course, to remove it. But, firstly, only a specialist can do this, and secondly, this is a very laborious work. In such cases, use a special radiator roller. Before painting the radiator, make sure it is turned off. It is convenient to paint radiators with spray paint, just remember to wear a respiratory mask and protect the wall by inserting a large sheet of cardboard between it and the radiator.
Some tricks
In Soviet times, during the construction and decoration of new houses, batteries were hung on the walls without any aesthetic preparation of the latter; in the future, these sections of the walls were either glued with wallpaper or painted as far as they could reach or crawl under the battery. Today, finishing the wall behind the battery is an integral part of the repair, and no matter how you are convinced that this place will be covered with a curtain, you should not neglect this operation.
In most cases, finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be done through the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out it either before the installation of new radiators, or remove the radiators for the duration of the work, having made notes about the location of the battery before that, this will help determine the size of the surface to be trimmed.
Painting, wallpapering behind the battery are all just temporary finishing options, due to the inaccessibility of cleaning work in these places, wall sections finished in this way quickly become unusable. We would advise laying out behind the battery tile, which is almost eternal, and undemanding in cleaning.
Finishing the wall behind the battery with tiles
If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of the radiator installation and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the level of the floor and the height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because. if a tile gets in its way, the plinth will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which can adversely affect the appearance of the finish being carried out.
Let's start working from the bottom. We beat off the level of passage of the tile and fasten the bar of the required length with dowels to the wall. Its length should be a little more than the area to be trimmed and have a margin on the right and left sides. After that, you can proceed to the decoration, of course, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first tile and mount it on the wall, placing it on a bar and orienting it along the side mark. Next, the surface of the tile is set according to the level, if necessary, it must be knocked out in protruding places, or add a solution where it is missing. After that, the tile is set horizontally, if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the tile and the bar. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the bar with the help of a level and wedges.
Finishing the wall behind the battery continues in this way up to the window sill; on the last row, tiles, if necessary, are cut with a tile cutter in required size. After the tile mortar has dried, the tile joints are grouted. And when it dries, you can proceed to install the radiator in place.
Arrangement of space behind radiators
I have an old enough panel house. Almost twenty years have passed since its construction. Naturally, during this time, I, to one degree or another, redid almost the entire apartment.
The newest Construction Materials and technology have allowed us to significantly expand the content of the very concept of repair. If earlier we were content with whitewashing and changing wallpaper, today it can already be called a repair only with some stretch.
Take any element of the apartment: floor, walls, ceiling - today the repair of any of these elements can include a wide variety of activities. For example, the ceiling, to replace the traditional whitewash, came stretch ceiling, two or even three - level. I'm not talking about ceiling tiles, they have already become so firmly established in our everyday life that they are considered to some extent an outdated solution.
I found another use for ceiling tiles.
The space behind radiators is traditionally the bottleneck of any repair. Even just whitewashing there is quite difficult, gluing the wallpaper is also quite inconvenient, and besides, very often pasted wallpapers fly off. So the battery “flaunts” against the background of a somehow equipped wall.
And this space, I pasted over with ordinary ceiling tiles. It turned out to be quite easy to do - ceiling tiles very well tailored to any configuration of supports for radiators. In addition, it is also very easy to measure the location of these supports before gluing the tiles - after all, all tiles have the same dimensions.
Sticker started with ceiling plinth with which I framed the bottom of the window sill. And the tile itself began to be glued from below, in the direction from balcony door. Thus, the bottom, most visible row, turned out to be consisting of whole tiles for me. The same applies to the first vertical row from the balcony. In total, I got two rows, and the top row even had to be cut a little.
I glued the tiles on PVA glue, smearing the entire surface with it. The walls in front of the sticker were also smeared with glue. The adhesion of the tiles to the wall was good. Quality - checked by time. For over a year now, the tile has held up perfectly and does not fly off.
The space arranged in this way behind the radiators began to look very good. From a somewhat whitewashed corner, it turned into a completely ennobled niche. Everyone who saw my innovation appreciated it positively. Of course, this is just a small touch in the general decoration of the room, but the touch is quite noticeable. Now in all my rooms - heating niches are equipped in a similar way.
Wall decoration behind the radiator
It is better to first make a crate for the lining, then mark the brackets (install the timber) under the battery, with the expectation that the lining will take 1 cm of distance from the radiator to the wall.
In general, for convenient marking, I take a sheet (roll) of thin plastic 1500X600 with me to the objects drilled holes coinciding with the installation locations of the brackets (for aluminum batteries 350-500 ... up to 20 sections). The markup takes less than a minute. All you need is a pencil and a level.
Wall cladding in hard-to-reach places
Modern renovations involve full wall cladding. However, unfortunately, in any apartment, in any house there are places that are difficult to finishing work. This is especially true of the joints of adjacent walls, as well as window niches.
You need to start work with the choice of facing material. It should be remembered that not every finish will look beautiful indoors in the presence of so-called difficult places. So, the wallpaper in these areas can swell or crack, the tile can create some bumps and even sharp corners, the plaster can delaminate. However, the more savvy in this matter a person will take up the job, the less opportunity as a result to observe all these flaws.
So, the decoration of adjacent walls. Unfortunately, in modern buildings, the corners are usually not perfectly straight. This greatly complicates the work aimed at achieving good looking and quality finishes. However, there are a couple of secrets. The process of tiling is considered the most difficult, since the most problems can arise with this material. The main nuance to be considered is the laying of tiles on both the outer and inner sides of the corner.
To achieve a high-quality result, it is best to work along horizontal guide bars, which will be located on the same level. This is necessary in order to avoid discrepancies in both horizontal and vertical tile levels.
When working with window openings, you should first deal with facing the front walls. As a rule, this work is carried out using solid tiles. Only after the end of this process, you can start finishing the side walls and window sills. In this case, the so-called edged tiles are most often used, that is, they are not solid. It is also worth noting that it is advisable to start facing the side of the window, and not from above.
It is also important to remember that in some situations it becomes necessary to make holes or cutouts in the tile itself. Therefore, it is desirable that the necessary tools, such as a tile cutter or file, be at hand.
When working with tiles good option preliminary calculations will be carried out. Of course, this is a very painstaking work that can take quite a large number of time. However, when carrying out such a calculation, you can save a lot on materials, as well as reduce the duration of the workflow with tiles.
So, difficult places in the house are not uncommon, but rather a pattern. Therefore, you should not be afraid of them. You just need to choose the right material, as well as, if possible, consult with a specialist who will tell you a few secrets. Only then not even associated with construction and repair work man can handle this difficult task.
Tips
Did you know what?
We bring to your attention a few tricks for self-repair
It is easier to hammer a nail into a tree if it is rubbed with soap or sunflower oil.
If the screw turns when screwing in, then insert matches covered with glue into the hole.
If it is difficult to unscrew an old and rusty screw, then you need to heat its cap with a soldering iron.
Cutting bad smell oil paint can be neutralized by placing several cans of salt water in the room where the painting is taking place.
If a magnet is inserted into the plastic stopper from the bathroom, it can be attached in any convenient place.
To avoid moisture condensation on water pipes With cold water and related smudges in the apartment, you need to wrap the “fogging” sections of the pipes with two or three layers of bandage.
The light bulb "has a habit" of being baked onto the cartridge, and therefore, by unscrewing it, you constantly run the risk of breaking off the bulb from the base. Before screwing the light bulb into the socket, rub the thread of the base with graphite of a soft pencil: the light bulb will turn out effortlessly and get rid of its bad “habit” forever.
A dried glue brush can be easily restored. Open the metal clip with a knife, release the hair and insert it with the stuck side back into the clip. Crimp it with pliers, trim the protruding hairs - and the brush will still serve you until you buy a new one.
Do not work in vain, gluing wallpaper to walls worn with putty on alabaster. The wallpaper will fall behind, the putty will collapse. Before pasting lightly oil the walls and let them dry.
Varnishing a parquet floor will become much easier and faster if you use two rubber sponges clamped into a rag holder instead of a brush. Sponges do not leave streaks, like brushes, allow you to work standing up, away from the fresh varnish layer, WHERE the concentration of solvent vapors is maximum.
When painting or wallpapering a room, do not open windows and doors in it. Draft, moving warm or humid air will inevitably disturb the uniform drying of the paint and spoil your work.
The ceiling is painted first. Moreover, the last layer of paint or whitewash must be applied with a brush in the direction of the light (towards the window). And the previous one, therefore, across. Otherwise, no matter how carefully you do the work, brush marks will be visible on the ceiling.
The paint should be applied in a thin layer. Of course, you will not be able to cover the surface at one time. Paint it a second time (after, of course, the first layer dries). Remember that two or three thin layers of paint are always stronger than one thick one.
Even dried stains of water-based white are easily washed off the floor with vinegar.
Trying to get rid of the persistent smell of kerosene or oil paint with which your hands are stained with water and soap will not lead to success. But it is worth adding a little dry mustard to the water - the hands will quickly be washed and the unpleasant smell will disappear without a trace.
You can remove old whitewash from the ceiling with a metal brush connected to a vacuum cleaner.
A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To get the desired color, dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolor.
It is much easier to cut a product of the desired shape from foam rubber if it is wetted first.
If stains appear on the wallpaper, do not be sad! Lubricate them with toothpowder soaked in gasoline, and when the powder dries, brush it off the wall with a brush; after doing this operation several times, you will see that there is no point in pasting the room with new wallpaper.
Aluminum foil pasted on the wall behind the battery central heating, will improve the heating of the room by reflecting the heat radiation of the radiator.
The drill will last longer if, when drilling holes in brick or concrete, it is periodically moistened with water.
Before painting metal furniture, planks, tubes, etc., wipe them with a cloth soaked in vinegar and let them dry. After that, the paint will lie better and will not peel off.
If you hold the knives for half an hour in a weak solution of table salt, then they are easily and quickly sharpened.
When sawing plywood, its surface is chipped. To make the edges smooth, you need to moisten the sheet along the cut line with hot water.
If the tile has lost its luster, wipe it with newsprint soaked in a solution of ammonia.
To make it easier to remove a layer of whitewash from the ceiling, you need to thoroughly moisten the ceiling with water and stick around with old newspapers. After drying, whitewashing along with newspapers will come off much easier.
You can drill a hole in the glass (if there is no special drill) with an ordinary unsharpened pencil clamped in a drill. Pour some dry sand on the glass, press the pencil firmly and turn on the drill. It turns out a smooth hole.
Dark spots often appear on the mirror in the bathroom. It is easy to avoid this if you smear the reverse side of the mirror with ordinary window putty. Just remember to remove the mirror from the frame first.
The plaster mixture will lay down and hold better if it is diluted not with water, but with wallpaper glue.
Characteristics
Types of wallpaper and their features
Currently, a huge number of wallpapers of the most different types. Consider some of the most commonly used in self-repair.
1. Paper wallpaper.
The main advantage of this type is cheapness. In addition, the walls, finished with paper wallpaper breathe, look aesthetically beautiful. The downside is that paper wallpaper easily and quickly get dirty, and of course you can’t wash them.
Now - this is practically the most used type of wallpaper. Vinyl wallpaper consists of a three-layer paper - vinyl. They imitate well such types of finishes as painting, textiles, plaster, etc. They are easy to wash. Another advantage is the invisibility of the joints between the canvases. Vinyl wallpaper hides wall defects quite well. Modern wallpaper Made of vinyl, they are breathable thanks to a special layer. But they are, of course, more expensive than paper ones.
3. Velor wallpaper
Velor wallpapers are made on a paper basis, on which tequila fibers are glued. These wallpapers are very beautiful, as they have a pleasant velvety look. The disadvantage can be considered rapid abrasion and the fact that wet cleaning cannot be applied to them.
So you have chosen the type of wallpaper and their colors, decided on the number of rolls. Now you can start actually pasting.
We paste over the walls
First you need to prepare the walls for gluing. There should be no greasy stains, lagging plaster, large depressions and ledges on the walls. All this needs to be cleaned off, the cavities to be plastered. The walls must be dry.
Now we close all the windows and doors. When gluing drafts are unacceptable.
Having rolled out the roll on the floor, cut off the first panel. Immediately, matching the pattern, cut off the second. Remember that you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm (calculation for shrinkage and unevenness of the wall)
Coat the wall and panel with glue using a brush or roller. The adhesive you will use depends on the type of wallpaper. When buying wallpaper, it is better to consult the seller about the choice of glue for them.
Wait five minutes. Now you can stick the strip to the wall.
Gluing the first sheet - the most important point when wallpapering. You need to glue it strictly vertically. To do this, use a plumb line.
They begin to glue from above, smoothing the "wallpaper" from top to bottom in the center. Then smooth the panel from the center to the edges. All this is done with a soft brush or a clean cloth.
Now, according to the picture, cut off the third panel. Paste the second one on the wall. Etc.
The lower edge of the strips is cut so that only the edge of the plinth is covered.
After the room is pasted around the perimeter, the upper edge of the wallpaper is closed with a special edge matched to the color of the wallpaper or with a ceiling plinth.
Some Tips
Do not glue wallpaper behind batteries. In this place, it is better to finish the wall with paint, as a lot of dust accumulates behind the batteries, and removing it from there is quite problematic.
Sockets are a rather difficult place to paste over. Glue the strip as usual, then make two diagonal cuts in the rosette area, fold back the wallpaper and cut to the shape of the rosette. The same switches.
Near the door and window openings, the wallpaper is glued with a margin of 5 cm. Then it is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and glued to the edge of the opening. The excess is cut off.
How to get rid of mold?
Among modern building and finishing materials, there are practically no ones that cannot be affected by mold. Microscopic spores are present everywhere, and as soon as they enter a favorable environment (humidity over 70% and temperature not lower than 15 degrees), they immediately begin to grow. Mold can be the causative agent of any disease, from allergies to cancer.
Reasons for the appearance
The usual physical removal of mold can only give a temporary effect. In order to get rid of mold on the walls once and for all, it is first necessary to determine the causes of its occurrence.
Most often, the occurrence of the fungus is observed in rooms with high humidity - in corner rooms, in bathrooms, in basements, when the roof leaks. For a long time, black mold has chosen "panels" with leaky interpanel joints.
Mold control
If mold spots have already appeared, you can remove mold from the walls with the help of special antiseptic agents, which are present in great abundance on the shelves of building materials stores. Any tool for removing mold on the walls is, first of all, poison. Therefore, it is necessary to work with such means with extreme caution. Before starting, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions for use.
Plastic windows
In autumn and winter, windows cry, because from the side of the street they are affected by cold, and from the side of the room - heat. At the same time, any increase in temperature and humidity in the room causes a “tearful” reaction of the windows.
Due to the good insulation of modern plastic windows air exchange between the apartment and the street becomes almost impossible. But such insulation is effective in combating cold, noise and insects. However, without air exchange, the humidity in the apartment increases and the air stagnates. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the room in order to exclude excess moisture, which can lead to fogging of the double-glazed window and the appearance of wet spots. And to create a favorable climate in the house, ventilation should be done regularly.
* ventilate the rooms at least once a day (opening the window for 10-15 minutes)
* if the humidity is high, it is necessary to ventilate the room more intensively. Humidity in the room should not exceed 30%
* rooms should be well heated. And the window sills should cover the batteries by no more than 2/3. Or be equipped with openings for warm air access to the windows
Step-by-step instruction
* dismantle the wallpaper from the affected areas
* with a special spatula we remove a layer of putty and plaster where it has become soft and loose due to mold
* well clean the affected area of the wall
* treat the affected areas with a special solution, as well as the entire surface of the wall (to prevent mold)
* it is necessary to re-treat with a solution after 4-5 hours
* we prime the wall with an antiseptic solution
DIY
WALL FINISHING WITH FABRIC.
do-it-yourself wall decoration with fabric Wall decoration with fabric returns unfairly lost popularity. In fact, our great-great-grandmothers knew a lot about organizing the interior, which became much more comfortable after decorating the walls with fabrics. Damask, tapestries, jacquard fabrics - all served one purpose - to create a cozy and harmonious composition.
It is difficult to argue, because everything is true, to the last word. The fabric really makes the room comfortable and, at the same time, somehow especially solemn. Let's say a few words about whether it is possible to decorate the walls with fabric with your own hands.
It is quite possible! However, for the implementation of daring ideas, you will need to make some efforts.
Important:
1 - choose the right fabric. In principle, any will suit you, but natural, with high-quality prints (or without them), a small pattern step and not overly stretched are preferred.
2 - Decide on the method of attaching the fabric to the wall. If you have perfectly smooth walls sewn into drywall, then you can nail the fabric without first creating complex structures. (Please note that the distance between the studs should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise the fabric will look bad and sag over time). If your walls leave much to be desired, then you can, without particularly processing them, pull the fabric over a specially created frame, leaving door and window openings undressed.
3 - If you chose the second option for yourself in the previous paragraph, then consider a few important points. Firstly, you should not strive to form frames for the entire wall, since the fabric can sag, not stretch enough, deform the frame and be difficult to attach to the wall. Secondly, when choosing slats for the frame, avoid those that have rounded corners.
By itself, such a frame looks normal, but when docked with adjacent canvases, it will form a too noticeable joint. Thirdly, if your plans include wall upholstery with leather, then the frames need to be created smaller than for wall upholstery with fabric. This is not only more practical, but also much more aesthetically pleasing.
4 - Find out if additional processing of the fabric is necessary. The latter is carried out to strengthen the material, prevent its premature fading, facilitate care and even enhance the brightness of the pattern. Today, already processed materials are most often found, thanks to which wall cladding with fabric is greatly simplified and accelerated.
Prices / Order
| Name of works | Unit. | Price rub |
| Opening device for doors, arches, etc.: in brick (1/2 brick) | m² | 2300 |
| Opening device in reinforced concrete 14 cm thick | m² | 4000 |
| Opening device in reinforced concrete 18 cm thick | m² | 5000 |
| Brickwork in 1/4 brick | m² | 580 |
| Brickwork in 1/2 brick | m² | 740 |
| Brickwork in 1 brick | m² | 1100 |
| Exposure of lighthouses | m/n | 35 |
| Plaster mesh on the wall | m² | 50 |
| Brickwork plaster up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plastering brickwork over 3 cm in several stages | m² | 690 |
| Plaster wooden walls pre-upholstered with shingles or mesh | m² | 620 |
| Plaster concrete walls up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plastering of concrete walls from 3 to 6 cm | m² | 690 |
| Plastering of concrete walls from 6 cm to 8 cm | m² | 750 |
| Non-flat wall plastering (semicircular, elliptical, etc. shapes) | m² | 900 |
| Plastering door slopes up to 30 cm | m/n | 400 |
| Plaster of door slopes from 30 to 60 cm | m/n | 450 |
| Plastering of window slopes up to 30 cm wide | m/n | 380 |
| Plastering of window slopes with a width of 30 to 60 cm | m/n | 450 |
| Plastering of arched slopes | m/n | 600 |
| Gluing rusts and joints of slabs with sickle | m/n | 80 |
| Wall gluing with reinforcing mesh | m² | 100 |
| Priming of walls after each cycle of work | m² | 50 |
| Sealing joints on drywall | m² | 200 |
| Putty for painting | m² | 550 |
| Wall putty for wallpaper (vinyl) | m² | 350 |
| Wall gluing with cork soundproofing material for painting work | m² | 280 |
| Wall gluing with decorative cork soundproofing material for concrete | m² | 340 |
| Pasting with glass wallpaper | m² | 300 |
| Pasting ordinary wallpaper (vinyl, paper) | m² | 280 |
| Pasting with embossed wallpaper | m² | 320 |
| Pasting with textile wallpaper | m² | 380 |
| Wallpapering in two levels | m² | 300 |
| wallpaper border | m/n | 80 |
| Spray painting | m² | 280 |
| Wall cladding with wall panels | m² | 460 |
| Wall cladding with polystyrene panels | m² | 440 |
| Wall cladding with brick or stone tiles (on a prepared surface) | m² | 950 |
| Facing arches with corner tiles | m/n | 950 |
| Facing with ceramic wall tiles: one pattern, with "decor" (on the prepared surface) | m² | 1300 |
| Curb installation | m/n | 250 |
| Tiling with tiles larger than 38*28 cm | m² | 1200 |
| Tiling with tiles size 10*10 | m² | 1000 |
| Tiling (mosaic) | m² | 1500 |
| Washed down the ends at ceramic tiles(porcelain stoneware) at 45 degrees | m/n | 350 |
| Cutting ceramic tiles (porcelain stoneware) according to patterns (cut on one side) | m/n | 400 |
| Cladding with reinforced tile panels | m² | 1400 |
| Cutting holes in tiles | PCS | 150 |
| Grouting | m² | 80 |
| Installing a protective paint corner | m/n | 60 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) plastic corners | m/n | 80 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) wooden corners, sanding and varnishing | m/n | 260 |
| Partition walls and glass block windows | PCS | 340 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with pre-fabrication of the frame in one layer | m² | from 650 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary frame fabrication in two layers | m² | from 950 |
| Installation of drywall on a wall with a preliminary wall lathing | m² | from 600 |
| Installation of drywall on the wall in two layers | m² | from 700 |
| Warming with mineral wool | m² | 100 |
Firms
How to choose materials for interior decoration of the house
After the construction of the house, the final chord is always the interior decoration. Upon its completion, the home is finally...
In this article, we will not consider issues related to design - this is a separate large topic, but we will analyze the most common materials used for interior decoration walls, and installation technology of these materials.
Lining
It comes in wood or plastic. The advantage of wooden lining is that it is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and easy to install. sheathed wooden clapboard the room looks warm and cozy. Cons - it requires painting or impregnation and is relatively expensive.
Wooden lining can be of several grades (highest, 1st and 2nd) and, accordingly, has a different price. When buying, check the boards for torsion, the presence of black fallen knots, evenness, tenon and groove integrity. Usually lining is produced in the form of boards of standard length - 2, 3 or 6 m, the so-called modules. If the length of the wall is more than 6 m, then, most likely, you will have to make a gap, which can then be closed with a flashing.
Also, when choosing a lining, you need to make sure that it is well dried. This is a prerequisite, otherwise, over time, as a result of shrinkage, the boards at the joints may disperse, up to the appearance of through cracks.
Plastic lining (PVC) is more durable and cheaper compared to wood and does not require additional processing, but, alas, it is less environmentally friendly (after all, plastic) and, accordingly, less suitable for interior decoration.
Fastening of any lining is carried out on a special crate frame, which can be part of the wall or attached to the surface of the finished wall.
For example, if a lining board in a panel house is mounted horizontally, then we only need to “strengthen” our main frame by adding additional vertical posts from a board of 100✕50 mm or 150✕25 mm in order to ensure a step between them of no more than 70 cm. For brick, log or log house, it will be enough to fix vertical bars 50✕50 mm on the walls (set according to the level) with the same step of 70 cm and, using linings, place them in the same plane. If the span between the elements of the mounting frame is made larger, then the deformation of the installed lining is possible - the deflection of the boards and their twisting.
If the lining is sewn vertically, then it is necessary to install an additional horizontal crate, for example, from a board 150✕25 - in the case of a panel house, or the same board or timber 50x50 horizontally along the walls with a step of 70 cm - in the case of a log house, timber and stone house.
At horizontal arrangement we begin to sheathe from below. The bottom board is installed on the frame with the spike up, calibrated strictly according to the level and fixed. The next board is put on with a groove on the tenon of the previous board. Not always the spike easily enters the groove. This may be prevented by manufacturing defects or deformations from improper drying. Usually, the longer the board, the more difficult it is to “put on” it evenly and tightly on the underlying one. Therefore, usually the lining is "upset" - they are finished off through wooden spacer where there is a gap.
Then the board is fixed. Usually they use nails, hammering them into the base of the spike, but not perpendicular to the surface, but with a slight slope. Then the next board will cover the hat with its groove and the wall will turn out to be “clean”. It is preferable to use galvanized nails with a reduced head 50–60 mm long.
You can also fasten the lining with the help of clamps - steel strips of a special shape. They are put on the spike of the lining and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws on the wall. The meaning of using clamps is the same - to get a "clean" wall.
Horizontal level is checked every 2-3 boards. It is necessary to achieve the tightest possible fit, since over time, as a result of the drying of the tree, the gaps between the boards will increase noticeably.
Vertical sheathing is done in the same way, with the adjustment that the boards should be installed perpendicular to the floor.
Plywood
For inner lining Usually, sanded moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is used. It is installed on a frame similar to a frame for installing a lining with a step between elements of 60 cm. The joints between plywood sheets are covered with flashings, the finished wall is varnished or painted. The decorative qualities of plywood are low, so this finish is mainly used for utility rooms or serves as the basis for wallpapering.
Plaster
This type of work is usually carried out on stone walls, for example on brickwork or wall block surfaces. For ease of application, as well as the reliability of fixing the plaster layer, it is often pre-installed plaster meshes. The optimal thickness of the plaster layer is 1-2 cm. Plastering walls - hard work, requiring a certain skill, so we recommend entrusting this work to professionals - save time and effort.
A separate class is plasters with an upper (front) textured layer. Textured plaster contains particles of a given size, such as small stone or plastic balls up to 3 mm in size. When applying textured plaster, a certain texture, pattern is formed.
To apply such plaster, an even “base” is required - as a rule, this is a layer of ordinary plaster or any other flat surface. A special reinforcing mesh is glued to such a base. Work with textured plasters even more difficult than with ordinary ones - as a rule, this requires a course of special training.
Decorative panels
Such panels are expensive finishing material, but this is a real find for the designer. They are very beautiful, eco-friendly and easy to install. Available for sale in the form of elements various shapes, length and width. There are panels and solid ones on the market, made of different varieties wood, and from chipboard, pasted over with veneer, and from plastic of the most diverse texture, including “stone-like”, “granite-like”, “marble-like”. We can also refer ceramic tiles to decorative panels. wall tiles, porcelain tile and so on.
To install decorative panels, a flat, smooth surface is required; in this version, they can be installed on glue. If the walls are uneven and not covered with a leveling layer, for example, plaster, then a frame-crate is needed to fasten the panels. The pitch and location of the frame elements are selected based on the size and shape of the decorative panels.
Drywall, gypsum fiber
These are panels of different sizes with a thickness of 9-12 mm with gypsum filling, glued on both sides with special cardboard or fiberglass. Their use allows you to get even walls of low weight at minimal cost. In addition, gypsum fiber has an increased fire resistance index.
You can install drywall panels yourself. The basis for the installation is a frame made of light metal profiles, less often wooden bars. The structure of the metal profile frame includes a rack profile, a ceiling profile, connecting profiles, etc. To connect individual elements metal frame regular connecting parts are provided - crosses, extension cords, as well as brackets for fastening to walls.
The frame is installed as follows: in the plane of the future wall, a rack profile is placed vertically in level with a step of 60 cm and attached to the floor and ceiling. Horizontal profiles “crash” into it and are fixed with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the horizontal profiles is 60 cm. To further strengthen the structure, if possible, the frame is attached to the draft walls using brackets.
Drywall panels are mounted on the finished frame using self-tapping screws. Panel joints are sealed with a special tape, after which the entire surface is puttied, primed, and then painted or wallpapered.
In what cases does it make sense in plasterboard walls?
● When you want to hide flaws in an existing wall that has a curved or raw surface that you can't do anything about.
● If you want to mount a partition that does not load the structures below, because drywall partitions are very light.
● If necessary, perform a complex design solution with a large number of curly elements, complex surfaces, ledges, niches, etc.
Finishing touches on the wall
After the main surface of the wall is closed, it remains to install the final finishing elements. These include corners, skirting boards, platbands, flashings, etc. These elements, in addition to their main function - hiding joint errors - give the room a finished look. There is a wide variety of such elements on the market from the most different materials and for every taste. Picking up something for the realization of any design ideas is not difficult.
When an unsightly radiator spoils the interior, there are several ways to solve the problem: replace it with a designer or underfloor model, or simply close it with a screen / box. The latter method has several advantages:
- A screen or box not only hides a bulky structure, but often decorates a room.
- The screen / box can be used to build an additional console, a shelf for decoration, a bench, a rack, a desktop.
- A closed battery is safer for children - there is no risk of burns and accidental shock. However, one can argue with this argument, because it is in the children's room that heat loss is least needed.
In the children's room, the radiator should be closed with a nice grill with a lot of holes, for example, carved as in this photo
- If the house is too hot and dry, then closing the battery will help create a comfortable microclimate for households, their pets and plants.
- The screen prevents dust from settling in the inside of the radiator and thus simplifies cleaning.
There are also disadvantages:
- The heat transfer of a closed battery decreases on average by 10-15% or more (depending on the degree of closeness);
- Screens and boxes often make it difficult to maintain radiators, and sometimes completely block access to them.
- Often, improperly closed batteries lead to fogging of windows, and then to the appearance of harmful mold on slopes and walls.
- A screen or a box, at least a little, but “eats up” the space around the radiator. After all, any elements should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the battery.
- Battery fencing requires additional expense and hassle.
How to close radiators - 11 ways from a drywall box to a fabric screen
1. Decorative screen/HDF box
This option is one of the most popular because of the average price and beautiful appearance.
What is the difference between a box and a screen? The screen is designed for a battery located in a niche or under the window sill (pictured above), therefore, it covers only its front part. The box completely closes the radiator on the wall from all sides.
The screen, like the box panel, is made of perforated HDF (3 mm high density fibreboard), while the box profiles are made of MDF. Both materials are quite strong, durable and non-toxic when heated.
Advantages:
- Due to the original perforation, HDF screens/boxes look beautiful and fit into any interiors, especially into classic .
- Heat resistance (the design does not dry out like natural wood, and does not turn yellow like plastic).
- Easy to assemble and install without the help of specialists.
- Finished HDF screens / boxes can be white or imitate wood (wenge, beech, oak), and custom-made ones can be painted in any color, laminated, veneered natural wood. True, the complexity of the design always affects the price of the screen.
Flaws:
- MDF and HDF do not tolerate prolonged contact with water. If the battery leaks or the pipe breaks, then the elements of the box / screen may swell. Therefore, any emergencies must be dealt with immediately.
- Perforated panels, despite their thinness, are quite durable due to the high density of fiberboard. However, they must be protected from shock and sharp objects.
- Perforation sections in factory screens are not painted, and therefore are visible.
Price: from 1500 rubles for a finished model and from 2300 rubles for an individual order.
Selection Tips:
- The size of the radiator niche must match the size of the inner side of the screen.
- Screens and boxes for the battery can be either ready-made (assembled as a designer), or made according to individual sizes and design (you can choose a perforation pattern).
Here is a small selection of photos of closed batteries.
Closed battery in the interior of a small kitchen in Khrushchev
2. Drywall box
How to close the battery with drywall? With this material, you can sheathe the radiator with a box or create a niche for it in a false wall.
Advantages:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Can be used in wet areas;
- material is available;
- With a false wall, you can close the pipes, expand the window sill;
- You can close the battery with a drywall box with your own hands without special skills in a few hours of work;
- You can think over the configuration of the box and the false wall yourself, if you wish, equip it with shelves and niches, additionally close the pipes connected to the battery. Next, you can see a photo of a closed battery in a plasterboard false wall with an enlarged bench window sill and a built-in niche for books.
Flaws:
- The main disadvantage of a drywall box is that this material is afraid of shocks and leaks. If something goes wrong, you will have to completely change the casing of the battery along with the finish.
- A false plasterboard wall for the battery and pipes "eats up" the space, as it is moved forward 30-35 mm from the extreme point of the radiator.
- As a rule, a GC box should be made at the repair stage, because its finish must match the wall finish.
In the following photos you can see finished interior kitchens with closed battery and a drywall box under renovation.
Design and manufacturing tips:
- Before closing the radiator with a drywall box, be sure to put it in order: blow, rinse (this is done at the end heating season) and paint. In the future, it will be difficult or even impossible to do this without dismantling the box.
- The box can be installed on the floor or "hang" on the wall.
- When designing the box, please note that the visor of the window sill should protrude above the front of the box by at least 30 mm. If necessary, the old window sill should be replaced with a wider one.
A visual instruction on how to close the battery and pipes with a false plasterboard wall is presented in the video below.
And here is a video tutorial on how to close the radiator with a box.
3. Furniture
In the kitchen, the battery, together with the window sill, can be built into a suite or bar counter, and in the living room, bedroom and hallway - into a bench, console or shelving.
This slider contains a selection of photos of closed radiators under the bench.
- The main condition: enough holes must be provided in the window sill / lid above the battery for air circulation, and the facade (if any) covering the battery should be equipped with a grill (see photo below). Otherwise, there is a risk of fogging windows and cold indoors.
Sometimes, to hide the heating battery, it is enough to rearrange the furniture and close the device, say, with a sofa, armchair or console. In order not to disrupt air circulation, it is better to place a piece of furniture away from the battery (at least 10 cm), it is also desirable that it stand on legs - so convective flows will not be blocked.
4. Fabric curtain
This disguise method is good for rented housing or when you need to solve the problem of ugly batteries with minimal cost. The advantages of the curtain are obvious: a piece of fabric is inexpensive, and the choice of colors is very large (you can change the “screens” according to your mood), while the battery is always available for repair and inspection.
5. Natural wood screen
Advantages:
- Handsome and expensive appearance even in the simplest execution;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Good heat dissipation and heat storage capacity.
Flaws:
- The tree is capricious - a poorly prepared tree can swell from a leak or warp from heat;
- The wooden screen requires special care;
- High price.
Prices: from 3000 rubles for the simplest models and from 10 thousand rubles for premium wooden screens.
Here are some photos of beautifully closed batteries.
6. Glass screen
A glass screen is an excellent decorating solution, but from a thermotechnical point of view it is very controversial.
Advantages:
- Design for every taste - the glass panel can be transparent and colored, matte and shiny, with and without sandblasting, with facet or polished edges;
- Glass can look neutral or very bright;
- Glass visually looks light and adds airiness to the interior;
- Ease of care;
- Strength;
- Durability;
- Heat resistance;
- moisture resistance;
- Absolute environmental friendliness.
Flaws:
- More suitable for modern rather than classic interiors;
- "Eats" up to 40-50% of heat (infrared radiation);
- High price;
- Fingerprints may remain on the glass;
- The panel does not cover the ends of the battery;
- Screen installation most often requires the help of a specialist.
- The screen for the battery must be made of tempered glass only. Only in this way will it be absolutely safe and shockproof.
- The glass screen is good for use in rooms with excess heat.
7. Metal box
Advantages:
- Virtually do not interfere with heat transfer;
- Low price;
- Easy care;
- Absolute moisture and heat resistance.
Flaws:
- "Office" appearance, which will not fit into every interior.
Selection Tips:
- A metal screen for a battery can look very nice if you have it made by a company that specializes in laser metal cutting or forging.
8. Rattan box or screen
Most often, rattan cloth means a mesh made of artificial rattan, woven from cellulose-based fibers with reinforcement with nylon thread. Artificial rattan is very similar to natural, but unlike it is more practical and can be dyed in any color. Natural rattan screens have natural beauty and durability, but they cost twice as much, and it is much more difficult to find them on sale.
Benefits of a rattan screen:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Beautiful view;
- Strength;
- Elasticity;
- Good heat dissipation.
Flaws:
- Weaving of artificial rattan is quite dense, which can affect heat transfer;
- The screen must be protected from water.
Prices: from 1700 rubles (artificial rattan screen).
Rattan fabric (both artificial and natural) can be used to make a do-it-yourself battery screen. To do this, you need to assemble a box with a frame on the corners, attach a mesh to the inside of the frame, then install the box on the radiator using brackets.
9. Hinged metal screen
The metal structure consists of a cover and a screen and is hung on top of the battery without fixing.
Advantages:
- Easy installation;
- Simple dismantling, which facilitates the maintenance of the radiator;
- Profitable price;
- Durability;
- Does not reduce battery efficiency.
Flaws:
- The ends of the battery remain visible;
- Almost always hanging screens are lattices without any decorative effect.
- There must be high-quality enamel, not scratched;
- Should be strong and easy to remove;
- The shield metal must not corrode.
10. Curtains to the floor
Masking the radiator with curtains is a great idea, approved by both heating engineers and decorators. The only problem is that it will not work to hide the battery under the window behind the curtain without shading the room. Is it possible to hang a very light tulle as in this photo.
Flaws:
- Looks simple, no frills;
- Over time, the plastic may turn yellow;
- When heated, low-quality plastic can release toxic substances, such as formaldehyde.
Prices: from 300 rubles.
Selection Tips:
- Plastic screens for the battery are available in basic colors: white, gray, brown, beige. If desired, the screen can be painted in the desired color with alkyd spray paint on plastic;
- When choosing a plastic screen for a battery, make sure it is heat-resistant and non-toxic.
How to close batteries correctly - technical rules and tips
Before closing the heating battery, it is necessary to take into account several technical nuances:
- Keep in mind that the heat transfer of a closed radiator is reduced in any case, no matter which masking method you choose. The main thing is that the change should not be significant. Ideally, the decrease in air temperature in the room should be about 1-1.5 degrees.
- Before closing the battery, put it in order: blow, rinse (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint.
- Keep in mind that the denser the weave of the grille, the better it masks the radiator, but the worse it conducts heat. Therefore, when choosing a screen for a battery, try to look for a middle ground or rely on heat saving.
- To minimize heat loss, the screen can be placed on legs, and a groove can be cut in the center.
- When closing the radiator, it is very important not to block the convective air currents, otherwise the room will blow, and the windows will start to fog up, which will eventually lead to mold on the walls. Ideally, the visor of the window sill should protrude above the battery by no more than 30 mm, the top and bottom of the battery should be as open as possible.
- There should be a distance of at least 35-50 mm between the battery and the screen. There should be a gap of about 60-70 mm from the radiator to the floor and to the window sill.
- To solve emergency situations, it is necessary to provide free access to the radiator. For example, the grate of the box can be removable, folding (see photo), opening on hinges or retractable on profiles.
At a minimum, for trouble-free service, the following should remain in good accessibility: pipe connections, valves, thermal head and threaded connections.
- You can increase heat transfer by 20-25% by placing a heat-reflecting screen on the wall behind the radiator, for example, fumisol. Often this is quite enough to fully compensate for the heat loss of a closed battery.
During cosmetic repairs, you can get free access to almost any part of the surface. However, in almost every room there is a place where it is very problematic to get close. This place is the surface of the wall behind the radiator. How the walls are finished behind the radiator, we will consider in detail in the material of this article. Including consider the issue of finishing the wall behind the battery without removing it.
When working with the area behind the radiator, the first thing, of course, is to try to remove the battery. To date, heating radiators are mainly found in two types: aluminum and cast iron. At the same time, both types of radiators differ in the way they are connected.
How to remove a heating radiator for wall decoration
For all radiators, both aluminum and cast iron, and from other materials general principle connections are the same. Regardless of the number of sections, the battery has a flow control valve hot water, a return shut-off valve, and a Mayevsky tap - an air valve designed to release an air plug from the radiator.
Battery connection diagram. With a small number of sections, the plug and return pipe are interchanged.
On the supply and return of hot water in the radiators, couplings with union nuts are installed, to which, by means of nuts, a water regulation valve is attached at the top, and a shut-off valve at the bottom. After both taps, couplings are installed with external or internal thread. And after the released couplings, either American couplings with clamping nuts or couplings for pressure testing are installed. One way or another, the supply and return heating pipes are connected to the latter.
A nut that must be unscrewed to remove the battery. In order to remove the aluminum radiator, it is initially necessary to close the water supply adjustment valve and turn off the return valve. After that, it is necessary to open the Mayevsky crane. Its external design may be different. Modern vozdushki have a comfortable handle. Old-style air vents are opened with a screwdriver, which completely unscrews the bolt.
On the next step a basin or a low bucket is installed under the battery being removed and, using either 2 spanners, or 2 adjustable wrenches, unscrew the union nuts connecting the radiator couplings with the taps. Considering that the airbox was previously opened, then it is necessary to wait until all the water drains from the radiator and remove the battery itself from the brackets.
How to disconnect a cast iron radiator from metal pipes
As a rule, in old cast-iron batteries, the pipe connection is as follows. At the inlet and outlet of the water in the radiator, cast-iron couplings of the adapter are installed - fittings. The external thread of the futorka allows it to be screwed into the hole of the last section. The thread cut in the inner hole of the bushing is intended for connection metal pipe 1/2 inch. After the futorka, a metal pressure washer is located on the thread of the metal pipe.
In houses old building on cast-iron radiators, as a rule, there are no taps for adjusting the water supply and a shut-off valve. All valves are usually located in one place at the outlet and at the inlet of water to the gas boiler, or in the basement, if we are talking about the old one. apartment building connected to central system heating.
Scheme of connection of a cast-iron heating radiator. In the figure, the numbers indicate:
1 - clamping washer (locknut);
2 - adapter sleeve (futorka);
3 - gasket under the futorka;
4 - the base of the cast iron section.
After making sure that the water supply to the radiator is shut off, using 2 adjustable wrenches, the clamping washer is initially released on the pipe by about 4-5 cm. on the pipe towards the released washer. In this case, it is desirable to calculate and remember the number of revolutions, since the installation of the radiator will be inversely sequential.
Wall decoration behind the battery without dismantling it
For various reasons, it is not always possible to remove the heating batteries. For example, if repairs are made in winter and there is a radiator at the inlet and outlet, and there are no stopcocks. In that case, there are two options. If the battery is installed close to the wall, that is, the gap is minimal, only 10-20 mm, then it is better to wait until the end of the heating season and still temporarily dismantle the battery. If the gap between the radiator is 4-5 cm, then you can finish the wall surface without removing the battery.
Plastering and puttying behind the battery
Plastering the walls behind the battery without removing it will not work fully. That is, you can perform plaster cement-sand mortar but without grout. Finally, the walls behind the radiator will have to be leveled with putty. For application plaster mortar or putties use an aluminum strip 150 cm or more long and only 3-5 cm wide. The thickness of the strip should be about 4-5 mm so that the strip does not sag during operation.
When plastering or puttying, the solution is initially made of a thick consistency so that it does not drain from the aluminum strip. A solution is applied to the edge of the entire length of the strip, or putty, and at an angle of 45 degrees the strip is passed between the battery and the wall. The work is similar to the principle of plastering with a rule, but here the main inconvenience is associated with a battery located on the wall.
Painting, priming the walls behind the battery
Given the small gap between the battery and the wall, it is more convenient to prime and paint with a roller with a small diameter - a mini-roller. Mini-rollers rarely appear on a wide sale, so they often have to be made independently from improvised means, using only its holder from a standard roller. To apply paint to the surface of the wall, you can also use homemade brushes or ottomans. An aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.8-10 mm is used as a handle for them, which can be bent at the desired angle during painting. In addition, there are radiator brushes on sale. The Radiator Brush is a curved brush with a long handle.
Mini roller for work behind heating radiators. 
Radiator brush. Gluing wallpaper on the wall behind the radiator
When sticking wallpaper behind the battery, first the wall surface is covered with glue. The adhesive is applied in the same way as paint and primer. Next, the back side of the cut piece of wallpaper is covered with a roller. After that, a piece of wallpaper is passed behind the battery and in order to press it tightly against the wall surface and smooth it out, use a second dry and clean mini-roller or ottoman on a flexible handle made of thick aluminum wire.
Gluing tiles behind the battery
Gluing tiles behind the radiator If the height and width of the battery are relatively small, for example, a radiator of 5 sections, then tiles can be laid on the wall behind it. The problem can only arise with the brackets on which the battery hangs. You will have to mark up the tiles so that the horizontal seam between the tiles falls exactly on the location of the two brackets. If the brackets are made of smooth reinforcement, then small notches are made on the ribs of the tile, thus, the upper and lower tiles will encircle the bracket released from the wall.
Other ways to finish walls behind radiators
If it is very difficult to get close to the battery and it is unrealistic to remove it in the near future, then behind the radiator to the wall you can mount a glass-magnesite sheet (SML) on the dowels, which can be pre-painted in the desired color. Wallpaper or tiles can also be glued to the sheet. The advantage of LSU is that it can be bought with any thickness from 2 to 10 mm. It should also be noted good heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities of glass-magnesite sheets. In addition to LSU, you can use other sheet materials such as drywall, plywood, chipboard.
Installing a glass-magnesite sheet for a battery Screens for radiators
Another solution when decorating the wall behind the battery and decorating radiators is to use screens for radiators. They are perforated panels various materials and are available in many patterns and colors. Such panels cover the wall along with the batteries. Thus, part of the wall behind the battery itself is hidden from view. The downside of this solution is some reduction in heat from the battery.
Screen for radiators. Solving the problem of how to close batteries, which do not always have an elegant, decorative and attractive appearance, should take into account not only the aesthetic component. What looks beautiful in the photo, in practice, can lead to a significant decrease in the temperature in the house. It is important to consider that in addition to a purely decorative function, the panel (screen, box), which helps to decorate heating appliances, also performs a very important functional purpose in families with small children, protecting the child from both burns and sharp corners of the battery. Therefore, we will consider the decor of the battery in the room from the position of three specialists at once - a designer, a heat engineer and a plumber.
The problem of how to hide in the apartment Radiator and the pipe supplying the coolant can be considered in two aspects. First one the day before overhaul when it is possible (and necessary) to replace the battery. In this case, you can select and install designer batteries and then the question will disappear by itself, and the heating efficiency will not decrease (more on this below). For example, if we are talking about a room in the classic Victorian style, then you can’t do without cast-iron batteries, powerful, massive, on a stand, with casting in sections - such radiators will become a stylish detail of the overall interior.
Another thing is when the repair does not involve the replacement of plumbing, in this case there are several options for how and with what to close the battery.
Painting
The easiest way to hide the battery is to simply paint it to match the wall near which the radiator is fixed. You just need to purchase a special paint for painting batteries. This is an option when radiators fit the overall style of the room.
Hinged screens
Screen-box
It allows you to completely decorate the entire heating radiator, while it is easy to make such a screen on the battery with your own hands from wood, the diagram is shown in fig. one.
At the same time, the box can not only hide an aesthetically unsightly radiator, but also act as an additional element of furniture, for example, stands for vases, shelves, or it can become part of shelving or console. A decorative wooden box can be made in such a way that it fully matches the style and decor of the room. Its main disadvantage is the closed top, which significantly reduces the efficiency of convection. In addition, the tree dries out when the temperature drops. In this regard, screens (boxes) made of MDF look preferable, which are both cheaper and more durable.
Advice! If the radiator is far enough from the wall, then by combining the window sill and the box, you can make a bench for romantic gatherings by the window.
Plastic grids
Cheap, but definitely not for residential premises, they will hide the battery / pipe, but when heated, they can release compounds dangerous to humans, especially if the panel (grid) is made of cheap plastic by a “gray” manufacturer.
Advice! Plastic screens are suitable for non-residential premises, taking into account resistance to high humidity- for bathrooms.
glass screen
The glass panel, as a rule, is a rectangular sheet made of translucent thick glass, which is attached to the wall with steel holders. Giving the opportunity to decorate the heating device from the front, it, leaving the space below and above open, does not interfere with the free convection of air. A popular solution is a glass panel with printed photo printing.
The main task of a heating radiator is to heat the room, which it does by a combination of two methods. The first is infrared radiation, in which heat is transferred directly to objects that are located in the room. It is this thermal energy that we feel when we bring our hands close to the battery. The second method is convection, by heating the air, which, rising up, displaces the cold, thus organizing the air circulation in the room, which leads to a more or less uniform temperature distribution.
Therefore, you should immediately decide on the main thing - no matter what way to hide the pipes and radiators in the apartment is chosen, any battery decor will definitely lead to a loss of heater power. A simple example is the installation of a glass screen that almost completely blocks infrared radiation. And the more the area of the overlay (screen) on the battery will have a solid (without holes), the “deeper” the battery will be hidden, the more significant the losses will be. Solid (deaf, without holes) ducts above the radiator are especially unacceptable - because they block warm air rising up. The photo below shows a particularly unsuccessful design designed to decorate the battery.
On the one hand, it still does not fulfill its role to the end - the supply pipe is very clearly visible. On the other hand, there are very small holes that significantly reduce the movement (convection) of warm air, and a solid screen (even if it is metal) blocked thermal radiation. That is why, from the point of view of thermal engineering, perfect choice- this is a panel made as a coarse mesh.
On fig. 2 is presented in a section almost optimal model grids for heating radiators.
Infrared (it is also direct thermal) radiation, indicated by red arrows (3), passes through the grating (D) with minimal losses. It is worth paying attention to the thermal insulation screen (A), which reflects heat (part of the infrared radiation) and, instead of aimlessly heating the walls, returns it back to the room.
Cold air (indicated by the blue arrow 1), entering from below, heats up and rises. So that the heated air does not stagnate under the windowsill, forming a thermal cushion that blocks convection, a visor (B) is installed to direct the air flow outward. In the upper part, it is also worth installing an injector (two metal plates), which allows you to remove heated air from the front side of the radiator. It is especially effective at high temperatures, due to the narrowing at the top, the thrust increases significantly and the volume of exhaust air increases significantly. Despite the installed grid, the total energy efficiency of this design will be significantly higher than with a simple installation of the battery near the wall.
The second, no less important point is the availability of the radiator and supply pipes. It is no secret that the battery is one of the potential sources of problems in the apartment. Any radiator can leak - there are many reasons for this, from water hammer to low-quality material. In addition, given the low quality of the coolant (water), it may be necessary to remove the battery in order to rinse it - otherwise, the number of actively heating sections will be constantly reduced. So from the point of view of plumbing, the best overlay (panel) on the battery should provide free access to the radiator - either not have a permanent mount, or be attached.
Advice! At the very least, it is necessary to install a “revision” (plastic door), which will give access to the place where the pipe is connected to the radiator - as experience shows, this is the weakest point in the entire system.
How to close the battery - consider the options on the video: