DIY vinyl siding. How to work with siding: learn with us. Lathing installation work

Installing siding on the walls of the facade of the house can be done quickly and easily if you know some important features installation. Technology correct installation siding primarily involves careful preparation of the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls relative to the vertical level is the key to quick and correct installation siding. In the article, we will consider some important features of installing siding with our own hands, and the video instruction below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.

Do-it-yourself siding installation features

Today to the most popular and budget materials for finishing the facade, vinyl and metal siding can be attributed. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quick and easy enough that you can do it yourself. Siding installation should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of dry and even wooden blocks ( a budget option), as well as on a metal profile crate.

Do-it-yourself siding installation technology

• Experts recommend using dry materials as a material for installing battens for siding wooden bars or metal profiles. The bars must be free of cracks and knots, be sure to be dry and even, and also not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, because, firstly, they are heavy, uncomfortable, and secondly, self-tapping screws are poorly screwed into them and nails are hammered. An ideal and also economical option for bars is pine.
• It is better to choose bars along the length of no more than 3 m, with such a length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the bar should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a bar of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
• You can also make a crate for siding from a metal profile. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly flat and strong enough, so this the best option for the subsystem, although such a crate will cost a little more, unlike wooden bars.
• Basically, for the installation of battens for siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is widely used. The length of such a profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, with a height of 27 mm. Usually, the length of the profile is enough for the crate for cladding with siding of one-story buildings, and with a facade height of more than 3 m, the profiles are extended, and the profile must also be inserted under the sheathing of the gable part of the wall.

The bars are installed to the wall as follows:

• Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl make the necessary markings on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the bars of the crate is no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding at least 400-600 mm. Marking for the installation of suspensions for mounting rails is best done with a pencil or chalk using a profile or bar for this, as well as a building level.
• For quick marking, draw marks on the lower part of the facade with a suitable pitch and, relying on them using a profile and a level, draw marks for installing hangers in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the next walls.
• At the height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to fix at least 4-5 hangers approximately every 50-60 cm.

IMPORTANT! Metal straight hangers for the installation of siding battens are mainly used for a light type of finishing materials (vinyl or metal siding); for example, such fasteners are used for facade cladding with heavy fiber cement panels for exterior finish home is inappropriate. In the case of heavy types of facing facade materials to fix the subsystem, use special metal brackets securely fixed to the wall.

• To the wooden wall the suspension is fixed in the center of the marked line with two wood screws at least 30 cm long.
• After that, the suspensions are bent in a U-shape and a profile is inserted into them.
• Installation of all profiles should start from the installation of profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, set the profile first in one corner by level, and then repeat the operation on the other.
• Screw the self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the corner profiles and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from below and above.

IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, so when exposing all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock down the lacing.

The crate is exposed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade, now you can start installing the siding with your own hands.

Features of installing horizontal siding

• Horizontal installation of siding panels is the preferred option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, as it has good aesthetic performance, and also better protects the facade from atmospheric phenomena.
• It is necessary to fasten the siding horizontally to the crate mounted vertically. In this case, the starting profile is also fixed in a horizontal position, stepping back from the base 1-2 cm, (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
• You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and carefully screw it to the crate without tension, while the panel must be pushed almost back to back (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.

Vertical siding installation

To install the siding vertically, you will need to install the fittings horizontally. In this case, the siding panel will have to be fixed from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before the siding is installed) into the groove of which it is necessary to push the bottom edge of the panel. The starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the profiled holes of the siding panel in the upper part of the slot (not completely), leaving a small gap of about 1-1.5 mm, compensating for temperature effects.

How to properly install siding on a metal or wooden crate

• Siding can be installed both on a wooden subsystem and on a metal one. Siding installation technology on wooden bars involves the use of wood screws with rare carvings of at least 30 cm in length. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastener (not recommended).
• To the metal crate, the siding is installed on metal screws with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the screw should be a minimum of no more than 20 mm, so it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the screw into the metal profile.

IMPORTANT! Do-it-yourself self-tapping screws for installing siding with your own hands should be used galvanized, so you will prevent rusty smudges on the surface of the siding cladding.

• The siding fastening technology provides for the preliminary installation of fittings of all additional accessories and elements. In a set for siding, you must purchase start and finish strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, slope strips, spotlights. Only after all additional elements are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the siding itself.

Finally

The price per square meter of siding from various companies can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to take steps to do-it-yourself siding installation and save a lot of money at the same time. The money saved can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.

In fact, there is nothing difficult in installing siding with your own hands. All you need is a little desire and a little bit of optimism, and also have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.

Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instruction

The popularity of siding is increasing day by day. This is the most demanded material for facade cladding. It is available to any cottage owner, looks beautiful and is easy to install.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing siding with your own hands will help you complete the cladding efficiently and quickly. Whatever panels you choose: vinyl, metal, fiber cement, the technology of work is almost universal.

First step: Lathing device.

Installation is carried out on a pre-prepared frame made of metal or wood.

1. Choice of crate.

The crate is assembled from a metal profile or wooden bars. The step is maintained at 40cm for vinyl and 50cm for metal.

The metal frame is stronger, it is not subject to rotting and deformation, install it on uneven surface easier. Profiles are attached to the wall on brackets or hangers, which allow you to adjust the structure in terms of level.

A crate from a bar will cost less. The main thing is that the wood is dry, without defects. The timber must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation. Fasten with screws.

1. Surface preparation.

The walls are cleaned: unnecessary details (platbands, tiles, etc.) are removed, adjacent elements (gutters, lamps, visors) are removed. If necessary, cover up cracks. wooden facade impregnated with an antiseptic solution.

1. Frame installation.

The guides are fixed following the rule: if the casing is horizontal, the profile / beam is placed in a vertical position, and vice versa.

The connection is made with dowels for brick wall and self-tapping screws - for wood. The structure is leveled.

There are two ways to insulate the facade:

• set the step of the crate according to the width of the insulation, lay the insulation between the rails,
• build an additional frame for the insulating layer, then the crate will go parallel from above.

Second step: Installing the starting bar.

it milestone, which determines the quality of the entire work. Therefore, the installation of the starting bar is carried out exactly horizontally!

• Using a level or a water level on the crate, find the lower point, from which 5 cm higher, put a mark - screw in the screw.
• In the corners and around the entire perimeter, set screw marks in the same way.
• Pull the nylon threads between the marks on the corners.
• Attach the corner profile and mark the border on the crate.
• We retreat 6 mm from the corner bar. (thermal expansion gap) and fasten the starting rail to the frame. Between the rails we observe a gap of 1 cm.
• We check the horizontalness of the installed J-profiles. It is important not to allow deviations, otherwise the siding panels will warp!

Third step: Installation of corner strips.

External and internal elements at the corners are installed using the same technology.

• Mark spotlights.
• Attach the profile to the corner of the crate, retreat 3mm from the edge of the soffit. Lower the lower edge by 6 mm. below the edge of the J-profile. Fix the corner element with self-tapping screws in two places.
• Check verticality, then fix from top to bottom with a distance of 20-40 cm. Place self-tapping screws in the center of special holes along the edges of the planks, fix the highest point in the upper zone of the hole.
• When the height of the facade is more than 3 meters, connect the corner profile with an overlap of 2.5 cm in length. To do this, cut the top element so that there is a gap of 9 mm between the planks of the joining elements. Joint at all corners to perform at the same level.
• If the plinth is protruding, maintain a distance of 6 mm from it to the profile.

Fourth step: Installation of platbands.

There are three systems for framing openings:

1. The window or door is flush with the wall.

In this case, you can use the J-bar. It is important to connect correctly at the corners.

• Lay waterproofing.
• Install two vertical J-strips or trim on both sides.
• Fasten the profile horizontally above the opening with a minimum of 6 cm extension beyond the frame. from each side.
• Connect the slats in the following way: cut a strip in the lower part of the horizontal profile and bend it down, make a 2 cm incision on the vertical slats on the side. and cut at a 45 degree angle. upper part.
• Fasten the top and side elements.
• Attach the bottom rail in the same way, but run the strip on the vertical elements. It is necessary to make strips so that they cover the joint of the skin, protecting it from the penetration of moisture inside.

1. Openings with slopes no more than 20 cm.

Finish with window slats or platbands.

• Mount the finishing strips around the perimeter.
• Install the top and bottom profile first, then the side profiles.
• Make connections as described above.

1. Openings with deep slopes.

Usually they are trimmed with siding. From the inside, a flexible ebb is installed.

• Fasten the inner and outer corner panels around the perimeter.
• Install siding between them.

Fifth step: Fastening the first panel.

The general rule of fixation: you can not nail and pull the siding tightly, gaps are required for temperature changes in size. It should be fastened in increments of 30-40 cm.

• Insert the first panel into the corner piece and the lock of the starter bar. There is a gap of 6 mm between the panel and the lower edge of the lock. (when installing in the cold season, leave 9 mm.).
• Attach the siding to the batten.

Extension can be done:

• Overlap 2.5 cm, to do this, shorten the fastening strips and panel locks.
• H-profile - performed similarly to the splicing of corner strips. Before the soffit, leave a gap of 3 mm., For the starting bar, lower the profile by 6 mm. The same gap is maintained near any structures protruding on the wall.

Sixth step: Installation of siding.

• Mount the remaining panels in the same way as the first.
• Check the level every 2-3 rows.
• When installing siding around openings, trim if necessary. At the bottom of the window, fix an additional finishing rail to align the sheathing plane.
• Fasten with "hooks".

Seventh step: Cladding under the roof.

A finishing bar is attached under the roof structure:

• Measure the distance between the lock of the penultimate panel and the bottom line of the lock of the finish bar, step back 2 mm.
• On a separate panel, cut off the top locking module.
• Make hooks on top at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Bend the cuts to the outside.
• Insert the cut siding into the penultimate panel and snap the locks of the finishing element.

Eighth step: Sheathing the gables.

• Finish the gables around the entire perimeter in the same sequence as the installation of the main panels, using an internal corner or starting rail.
• Trim the edges of the connecting elements and attach the receiving strips with locks. Maintain an interval of 6/9 mm.
• Fix the last panel to the crate directly through the material.

Key points in the work of finishing the siding.

1. Perform horizontal sheathing in the direction from bottom to top from left to right.
2. When locking the two panels together, effortlessly push the top siding into the bottom siding until it clicks into place.
3. Consider the thermal expansion of the material. Fix metal and PVC siding with a slight gap.
4. For fastening, only stainless (for example, galvanized) self-tapping screws or nails with a length of 35 mm or more, with a head of at least 8 mm, are suitable.
5. Fasten the self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the factory holes specially designed for this purpose, do not press the panel tightly. The exception is the last plank on the pediment.
6. Panel fixing pitch is not more than 45 cm, accessories - 25 cm and less.
7. On the facade of a log house, assembly can only be started after the building shrinks, otherwise the siding will “lead”.

In the company Vasha Roofing you can always order the installation of siding. Our installers will complete the work professionally and on time. With us you will receive a written guarantee for the installation and keep the manufacturer's warranty card for the material.

How to install siding yourself with the least loss.

The installation of siding generally does not cause any particular difficulties, but it requires strict adherence to the siding installation technology and the recommendations given by the manufacturer regarding the installation of this finishing material.

To repair an old and dilapidated building is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, especially when it comes to a wooden house with a long service life. There are two main ways to solve this problem:

• Cover the house with clapboard. Doesn't solve all problems. Constant maintenance of the facade will be required: annual repainting, sealing of open seams, etc.
• Finishing with siding. This option is more acceptable, as it allows you to perform work quickly, at the same time insulate the building, and also retains good appearance without the need for seasonal maintenance

Attention! Siding belongs to the category of ventilated facades, therefore wooden walls will not rot under it, continuing to "breathe » .

The choice of siding as a finishing material in this case is obvious. It is worth noting that this type of exterior finish can also be used for brick and concrete houses, as it allows you to quickly and easily complete repair work and give the building a beautiful appearance.

Before carrying out the main work, you need to decide which ones are right for you.

You can see photos of examples of house siding with do-it-yourself siding. There are many good examples out there.

It remains to answer the following few questions:

• How to count required amount Supplies?
• Are preparatory work necessary?
• What tool will be needed?
• What can surface preparation for siding include?
• How to make a crate?
• How to start, continue and finish installation work?
• What should be considered when?
• How can hardware help? Etc.

In the instructions for installing siding, we will try to answer all these questions in order.

Siding calculation

Most owners who do repairs with their own hands make a gross mistake when calculating the square of the walls of the building. What's the catch? The fact is that the strips are made in a standard length, it is a little less than six meters. Then it needs to be connected. As a result of the quadrature calculation, many segments remain and often there is simply not enough material. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the total amount of material in order to avoid overspending as much as possible, taking into account the length and width of the bar.

1. We measure the length of the wall. For example, it has 8 meters. Therefore, a whole strip can be installed, and then another segment of about 2 meters. In the future, the remains of the cut strip will be additionally used for the remaining two rows. It turns out that for three rows you need only four slats
2. We measure the height of the wall. The walls in a wooden one-story house to the roof are usually no more than 3 meters. One row of siding has a working surface of 22.9 cm. Three rows, therefore, will cover 0.68 m. Then we divide the heights of the walls by the result obtained and by four 3000 cm ÷ 0. 68 ÷ 4 \u003d 11. It turns out that for a blank wall it is necessary purchase 11 strips of material
3. Window openings. Don't waste space window openings, since additional material will be needed that can be used for slopes. Additionally, it will be necessary to calculate the total number J of corners, docking strips, starting bars. They are calculated in strict accordance with the length and height of the building.

If there are difficulties in calculations, you can use a special calculator, a program that is often found on various construction sites.

Preparation for construction work

At this stage, it will be necessary to assemble construction tools, install scaffolding, and most importantly, decide whether the work will be done independently or with the involvement of a professional team. If the latter option is chosen, then it is easy to calculate the additional costs. The cost of the services of the brigade will cost 50-75% of the cost of construction material. If you don’t have the opportunity or desire to spend such an amount, then you can do the installation yourself. When negotiating with the construction team, you need to take into account that all the problems associated with the calculation, preparation and installation will be solved by the workers of this team.

You can calculate for yourself, think about where you can save and where to add elements, based on your financial capabilities.
You can get acquainted with the dimensions of siding. And you can find detailed description features of the calculation of siding for the house.

What siding installation tool do you need?

To clad a building with siding, you will need a standard set of tools. Namely:

• Angle grinder
• Screwdriver and screwdriver
• Hacksaw for metal
• Level
• Roulette
• Perforator
• A hammer
• Metal shears

If possible, you can also use a circular saw, it helps to accurately cut the required angle and increase the quality of work.

Is it necessary to prepare the surface?

For wooden house this is a mandatory part of the installation. For a brick building, mainly holding preparatory work not required. Wooden house is prepared as follows:

1. Examine the surface to remove rotten boards
2. The surface is treated with an antiseptic
3. All decorative and protruding elements are removed

It is important enough to check the windows in the house in order to determine their compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes. Any unevenness will be clearly visible, so you may need to trim them or replace them with plastic ones. After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed to the arrangement of the crate.

How to install profiles for siding (make a crate) and insulate the walls?

Is siding required? In short, yes! The fact is that the crate is a kind of shock absorber between the walls of the building and the material itself. During the shrinkage of the building, the appearance of cracks in the strips or their deformation can be avoided. In addition, the crate eliminates the unevenness of the walls. So, she is needed! In addition, it can be used to insulate the walls of the building. How is the framing installed?

1. Two profiles are installed along the edges of the building. They expose in strict accordance with the vertical and horizontal level. By the way, for installation they usually use a standard profile, which is used for plasterboard structures.
2. The rest of the profiles are vertically installed along the thread. Optimal Distance between them is about 40 cm. Some, wanting to save money, take a step wider, up to 60 cm. This can be justified if there are no strong gusts of wind in the area where the building is located
3. A heater is placed between the profile. For ventilated facades, it is best to use one of the options for soft thermal insulation.
4. Checking the final result with the rule

Now you are ready to start the siding.

Installing vinyl siding

Where to begin?

Setting up the start line

First you need to do markup.

Moreover, the requirement here is that the lower part of the bar does not lie on the ground. The gap between it and the blind area of ​​the building should be at least a few centimeters. The fastening of the strip is carried out using galvanized nails.

It is better to install the starting siding strip immediately around the entire perimeter of the building. This is where the level comes in handy. With it, we mark zero, and with the help of a construction cord, we set a common horizon for the four sides. Since there is already insulation on the walls, marks can be made directly on the profile.

Installing fixtures and fittings

The installation process is quite easy, but you should still follow the basic recommendations:

• Vinyl siding expands under the influence of temperature, during installation it is necessary to take into account this property of the material. The required thermal gap is about 5-6 mm.
• The material is attached to the crate in such a way that it can "breathe". Nails are not hammered to the end, leaving a small gap between the cap and the facing material of about 1-2 mm.
• Fastening is carried out in the center of the hole. Fixing the bar on the side is a violation technological process. The step between fasteners is about 30-40 cm.
• It is necessary to fix the bar only after snapping the panel into the lock. This will be indicated by a click.

Corners must be protected with special fittings. Are there rules in this regard?

The outer corner helps to increase the strength of the finish and at the same time hide the place where the planks join with each other. Recommendations for the installation of this fitting are as follows:

• Bottom part. Should protrude 10 mm lower than the lower level of the bar
• Top. Should not reach the eaves by 5 mm.
• Fastening. In this case, the step between the dowels should be smaller, a difference of 20-30 cm is allowed.
• Additional fittings. If you need to close the end part, you can independently cut the plugs from the segments from the J - strip

How to install J bar?

In order to ennoble door and window openings, it is necessary to install the so-called J-bar. If you have a circular saw at hand, this will be much easier.

1. A groove is cut in the horizontal bar on both sides. A special eyelet is made in the vertical
2. A bar is installed along the perimeter of the window, the upper part of which is cut at an angle

For deep slopes, a double-sided J-profile can be used.

[сaution] Siding strips should be mounted from top to bottom. It is important enough to leave certain gaps when installing between the end of the bar and the connecting profiles and corners. The siding panels must stand freely. This is necessary to create space for the thermal expansion of the material.

If the length of the strip is not enough and you have to build it up, you can use the following tips:

• Install H profile. The best but expensive solution
• Install planks end-to-end. In this case, the docking points must be done in a run

The rest of the installation of siding is not difficult.
Some owners of private houses prefer to use metal siding for house cladding. just like vinyl, it is simple.

Helpful Hints:

• For cutting corners, it is best to use a circular saw. It can be rented at any hardware store.
• Arched J - the profile must be fixed without an expansion joint. Dowel caps only in this case are clogged closely

Siding finish allows you to restore old house quickly and efficiently with the possibility additional insulation and most importantly, independently. All this is possible only if you listen to the recommendations regarding its installation.

Do-it-yourself siding installation video

Video instruction from a major Russian manufacturer of vinyl and plinth siding.

To update an old facade or protect a new one from the negative influence of the external environment, the owners are looking for a material that will be affordable, with good technical specifications and attractive appearance.

An excellent budget and high-quality option can be siding. It is important if you want to save a little more money, then you can do everything yourself. Working with siding is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Before you go to the store to buy such a facing material, you should find out what it is like. Different types siding differ not only in price, but also in some characteristics. But in appearance, it is very often difficult to distinguish which particular variety is presented in the window.

• Vinyl - made from synthetic material polyvinyl chloride. Most cheap option. Its advantage is low weight. And the individual elements of the skin, and the entire structure weighs very little. Because vinyl siding is often used to update not new homes.

• Metal - made from aluminum and steel (galvanized or stainless). This one will be slightly more expensive than the previous option. And the weight of the whole structure will be significant. But the metal finish has a longer service life.

• Wooden siding is made exclusively from natural raw materials. The price for such a pleasure bites a little, but the whole structure looks very natural and attractive. Another disadvantage wooden finish it is considered that the surface must additionally be coated with protective compounds in order to extend the service life.

• Fiber cement - made from cellulose fibers and cement. Such plates are used for decoration extremely rarely, although their price is very low. But the massiveness of the finish often scares off buyers.

Siding differs not only in the materials from which it is made, but also in the method of mounting. There is:

1. horizontal panels.
2. Vertical.
3. Socle.

If everything is clear with the first two, then you need to understand the basement panels in more detail. basement siding entered the market as a cladding with improved characteristics, which allow you to perfectly endure sudden changes in temperature and mechanical damage.

Since the price of such a finish turned out to be higher, it was used only for finishing those parts of the house that are subjected to the most severe stress. So, for example, a basement or foundation is constantly in conditions high humidity, and in winter, under the influence of low temperatures, it also freezes.

Therefore, they began to call such siding basement. Although it can be used to finish the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe external walls of the house and at the same time get the effect brickwork or natural stone. Basement siding is most often produced as an imitation of just such linings.

Additional elements

The siding manufacturers have made sure that all siding work is as easy as possible. For this, additional elements are produced. They serve for the correct installation of the first and final panels, or docking, processing of internal and external corners.

• Starting bar.
• outer corner.
• Inner corner.
• Near the window bar.
• H-profile (connecting strip).
• J profile.
• Hanging element.
• Finish plank.

In some cases, you can replace one element with another. But these are the secrets of professionals. If you have such acquaintances, it is better to consult with them about this. But be sure to buy additional elements from the manufacturer whose siding you are purchasing.

Different brands provide different sizes, and therefore all the strips and corners may simply not fit. Shades may also vary. Sometimes this happens with different batches of the same manufacturer. Therefore, when buying, be very careful. Immediately make a stock both on the panel and on the components, otherwise the end result will not please you at all.

We customize the size

If you are planning a house, then you need to know how to properly cut the panels so as not to spoil the canvas. To do this, you will have to get a grinder or a circular saw. These two tools are simply indispensable if metal or fiber cement panels are used for house cladding.

They allow you to quickly and efficiently cope with the task. Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with these tools. The grinder is also good for cutting vinyl siding. But what to do if there are no such tools, you don’t want to buy, but there is no one to borrow from. Then you can use:

1. Metal scissors. To cut neatly, you need to use only three-fourths of the tool's blades and move from the top of the panel down. Everything must be done slowly.
2. Hacksaw. In this case, it is better to use a metal blade with fine teeth. If you cut slowly, you can achieve a perfect cut, but if you rush, you can get a lot of chips and even a break. In the process, you need to firmly press the panel to a flat surface, but be careful not to break the element.
3. Stationery knife. This is the most extreme option and should be chosen only if it was not above those listed. To cut off the desired part, you need to put the panel on an uneven surface and press it well. With medium pressure, a knife is drawn along the marked line. It is important not to cut through the part. It is better to break it in the cut place later.

If the mounting holes turned out to be small or the enclosing panel had to be cut, then a punch will come to the rescue. A special tool that will help increase the mounting holes or make them. You can’t do without it, because it’s impossible to punch through the siding with a nail or self-tapping screw. In the process of changes under the influence of temperature differences, the material may crack, ruining the entire skin.

Mounting

Of course, each manufacturer offers installation technology and it must be studied before proceeding with the installation of panels and returning to the process. But there are important nuances that they do not take into account.

frame

Siding is installed as a ventilated facade, so you need to equip a crate under it. To do this, it is better to use an aluminum or galvanized profile. Such material, of course, will cost more than wood. But given that the tree needs to be additionally treated with antifungal and hydrophobic solutions in order to extend its service life, it is better to use metal.

If horizontal siding is mounted, then the frame elements are mounted vertically. If vertical or plinth panels are installed, then the details of the crate must be attached horizontally. The distance between two elements should not exceed 40–45 cm.

Under the skin, you can lay a heater, this will help to additionally keep the heat in the house. A vapor barrier film must be placed under the insulating layer, which protects it from fumes from the interior.

Installation steps

Now let's talk about how to do everything right, so that later you can enjoy the result for many years. After the frame is installed, you can proceed to the cladding of the facade.

1. Installation of the starting bar. It is attached exactly horizontally. To do this, use the building level. A self-tapping screw or nail is fixed exactly in the center of the mounting hole. But don't over tighten the mount. It is necessary to leave a gap of 1–2 mm, which will allow the element to move freely when expanding while heating in the sun. Horizontal elements are attached every 40 cm, and vertical ones - 25. Such a gap must also be left between the planks, but up to 1.5 cm wide the starting bar should not reach 10 cm to the corners.
2. corner elements. The principle of fastening is the same as that of the starting bar. The self-tapping screw is exactly in the center of the mounting hole, and leaves the appropriate gaps.
3. Window openings are being processed.
4. Panel fixing. The bottom edge of the first panel is hidden in . It is important that she does not sit there tightly. You also need clearance. The same applies to corner elements and butt (if any). If, after fixing along the entire length, the element can be freely moved from side to side, then everything is done correctly.
5. Installing the finish line. Of course, there is a lot of work, but if you have time, patience and you want to do everything with your own hands, then it is quite possible to implement such a plan. You just need to follow all the recommendations that are given in the instructions.

Siding is a finishing material for facade cladding. It bears two types of load. Functional is to protect the walls from external influences: sunlight, precipitation, wind, and so on. In addition, siding plays the role of decor, allowing you to create an attractive exterior.

First used in North America in the 19th century. In those days, it was a wooden plank, which was nailed to the wall at an angle as a facing material. As a result, each new layer hung a little over the previous one, which made it possible to protect the walls from rainwater.

At the moment, the material is produced using different technologies that allow you to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands. But first you need to choose the right product.

The differences between options often lie in the raw materials used for production. There are 6 main types of siding.

Steel

This type is practically not used for cladding the walls of private houses; more often it can be found on industrial buildings and warehouse hangars. Advantages:

• Wide range of colors.
• Resistance to deformation due to shrinkage of the building.
• Long service life.
• Fire safety.

Weak point steel siding are fresh cuts and holes, so during the installation process they are painted or covered with sealants

Steel products also have some disadvantages:

1. Before finishing the house, it is necessary to treat the material with special substances that protect against corrosion.
2. Susceptibility to denting due to mechanical impact.
3. Relatively large weight, which makes it difficult to lay the siding on the walls. In addition, it gives a significant load on the foundation.
4. High price.

Aluminum

This type is also rarely used for house siding, but it has its fans for a number of reasons:

• Combination of lightness, strength and durability.
• Resistant to UV rays.
• Wide range of colors.

Of the negative qualities, susceptibility to corrosion and low mechanical strength should be noted.

The aluminum coating is one of the lightest, in addition, in case of damage, these panels are not subject to corrosion, the only negative is the high price.

Wood

This siding option is perfect for antique-styled houses. It can also be used for interior decoration. Main advantages:

• Attractive appearance.
• Natural thermal insulation.
• Complete environmental friendliness.

1. Short service life.
2. The highest cost among all options.
3. Before laying the siding, you need to treat it to protect it from decay, fungus, insects and rodents.

Modern models wooden panels are mounted on the principle of lining, that is, tenon-groove

fiber cement

This material is the latest development in the field of facade siding. For its production, ordinary cement is used, in which a certain amount of fiber is additionally included. The result is a product that resembles concrete and wood. Modern technologies manufacturing allow you to apply any pattern to the surface. It is used for finishing both industrial buildings and residential buildings.

Advantages:

• Huge assortment.
• Fire safety.
• Mechanical strength.
• Long service life.

Among all types of such finishes, fiber cement panels are considered the most durable, but they are also the heaviest.

Flaws:

1. A lot of weight, which will put an extra load on the base of the building.
2. The complexity of trimming products, therefore, in order to properly sheathe the house, you need to make a lot of effort.
3. Installation work requires the availability of special equipment and qualified craftsmen, which increases the cost of installation.

Vinyl

It is considered one of the most popular types of such finishing material. The modern market offers a huge number of textures: marble, natural stone, wood and even leather. There are also simple colored panels without texture imitation. From positive aspects vinyl siding need to highlight:

• Quick and easy installation.
• Relatively low cost.
• Long service life - up to 20 years.
• Light weight, due to which the material does not create a load on the foundation.
• A wide range of.
• Application for any reason.
• Possibility of local repair.
• Ease of care.

Facing facade plastic is the most affordable material in terms of price, but such a cladding fades in the sun over time

Of the shortcomings, only the low mechanical strength of the products should be noted, because of which they can be easily split by impact.

Acrylic

This material is made on the basis of two composite polymers, dyes, fire retardants and antistatic agents are used as additional components. The advantages of acrylic products include:

• High degree of resistance to ultraviolet radiation.
• No reaction to acidic or alkaline solutions.
• Significant resistance to deformation due to temperature effects.

The shape and texture of acrylic and vinyl panels are identical, but acrylic does not fade in the sun and has brighter and richer colors.

The main disadvantage is the high requirements for the quality of installation, so do-it-yourself siding is possible only if the worker has experience, qualifications and certain skills. If the process is carried out incorrectly, there is a risk of cracking and damage. In addition, acrylic siding is one of the most expensive materials.

Basic Rules

To choose the right products, you need to pay attention to the following features:

Required Tools

Finishing the facade of the house with siding requires tools:

• metal scissors;
• hacksaw;
• plumb and level;
• tape measure, ruler, pencil or marker;
• screwdriver or electric drill;
• pliers and hammer.

Often the basic set of tools is the same, regardless of what material the cladding panels are made of.

What is the best way to cut material?

Most of the facade is finished with solid panels, but fragments of the material will be required at the end of the work. To make them, you need special tools.

The easiest way is with vinyl products, a grinder, a sharply sharpened cutter, a shoe knife or a jigsaw (preferably electric) are suitable for their processing.

If you need to cut metal products, it is recommended to use a hacksaw or a circular saw with a victorious working element. Using a grinder in this case can lead to damage to the material due to overheating.

Vinyl and acrylic can be cut with any tool, metal only with scissors or a circular saw, a grinder is used for fiber cement, and wood is cut with a hacksaw or a circular saw (to cut wood siding Bulgarian is strictly prohibited)

Material calculation

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with a purchase. It is possible to calculate the required amount only approximately. To do this, sketch the facade on paper and indicate all dimensions. Then divide it into geometric shapes and calculate their area, add the numbers obtained and subtract from the sum of the window and doorways. The result must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel, it is recommended to add about 5% of the margin to the resulting figure. So you can calculate the siding for the house.

When calculating the material, elementary mathematical formulas are used, but it should only be remembered that the siding has a useful and total area, while the useful area is taken into account, plus 10 - 15% is added for trimming

Preparatory work

In order for the cladding of the facade with siding to be successful, you must do the following:

1. Clean the surface of dirt and dust, remove lime deposits, plants, and so on.
2. Remove old plaster, paint, etc., if the materials peel off.
3. Dismantle everything that can interfere: cornices, decor, drainpipes.

It is necessary to knock down the old plaster only if it peels off by itself and there are voids under it, it is not necessary to dismantle the lining that is firmly held, it is enough to remove the ebbs, window sills, etc.

Crate stuffing

Siding is installed on a pre-prepared frame.

The frame can be assembled from metal or wooden profiles. The first option is more durable and easier to work with. For installation, suspensions are used, with their help it will be possible to assemble the crate strictly according to the level.

Wooden timber is cheaper, but before purchasing, you should check its condition. If it is stratified, bent, or there are spots on the surface, you should not buy it. Before installation, the products should be impregnated with substances that will protect the material from decay.

In any case, the guides must be installed vertically. For mounting on wooden base self-tapping screws are required, on block walls - dowel-screws. The installation step depends on the size of the panels, which is indicated in the instructions. The process requires regular check construction level.

On a note! If planned external thermal insulation, then it is laid before mounting the frame, in this case there will be two battens on the facade. The second must be stuffed so that it coincides with the first.

It is desirable to veneer all residential buildings with insulation, save on thermal insulation material only possible on commercial buildings

How to set profiles correctly

This stage is considered the most responsible, the appearance of the finish depends on it.

Fastening of J-profiles

1. Using a level, find the bottom point of the frame, step back 5 cm from it and screw in the self-tapping screw. So you need to outline all the places for the starting parts.
2. Install fasteners in the corners of the house and pull the ropes.
3. Attach the profile to the corners of the crate, draw lines along the edges with a pencil or marker.
4. Step back 6 mm from the corner and fix the part on the frame, then check the horizontal installation with a level. If there are deviations, it is better to correct everything at this stage in order to finish the house with quality siding and without defects.

The appearance of the entire wall as a whole depends on the quality of the installation of the starting strip.

Installation of external and internal corner rails

It is necessary to attach the profile to the corner of the crate, stepping back 3 mm from the roof, and fix the rail with self-tapping screws, while the product should be 6 mm lower than the J-shaped profiles. Then you need to check the correct installation level. If there is no curvature, then you should first fix the lower part, and then all other places.

It is not worth saving on external corner profiles, as they are too noticeable on the facade

If the height of the facade is more than 3 m, then the guides will have to be superimposed on each other. There should be a whole profile below, and the top one should be cut. Reiki must be docked at the same level in all places.

On a note! If there is free time and the desire to save money, the corner rails can be replaced with two J-profiles. In this case, the corners are pre-glued waterproofing material Otherwise, the finish will not last long.

The technology of working with internal corner products is no different.

Internal corners less noticeable, so they can be equipped with a J-profile, but to achieve the perfect result, you need specialized fittings

Framing openings

Many home masters face difficulties at this stage. There are two methods for processing such areas.

Openings in line with the facade

First you need to protect the frames with waterproofing material, then mount the trim or J-profiles. One opening will require 4 products: 2 vertical and 2 horizontal.

Installed parts must be connected. To do this, on each side of the upper rail, it is necessary to make cuts and bend down the resulting bridges. From the side profiles, you need to remove part of the material that interferes with the connection. After that, you should combine the parts so that the bridges of the upper element are inside the rails, and connect the side fragments to the lower one. You need to collect in the same sequence.

If the window is flush with the façade or even protrudes slightly, then it can be clad with J-profiles, but special window profiles look better

recessed openings

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the window or door; the cuts on the platbands must correspond to this value. Further work is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

For the installation of a window “recessed” into the facade, there are special platbands that are installed in tandem with the J-profile

How to work with siding

After installing all the profiles and checking the building level, you can begin to fix the panels. Siding installation is carried out in several stages.

Gable finishing

In this case, it is necessary to mount the siding around the perimeter. Starting or corner profiles are suitable for pre-cladding. Further work is the same as for the rest of the facade. The only difference is that the last panel is nailed directly through the entire thickness to the crate, but this can be done 1 time and only in this place. Siding completed.

To veneer surfaces correctly, you need to follow the recommendations:

• Fasteners must be installed in the center of the holes that are made at the stage of manufacturing the siding. At the same time, the caps of the hardware must not be fully tightened to leave a small space for thermal deformation.
• It is better to mount the panels horizontally, moving from right to left and from bottom to top.
• Laying wood siding is possible only on galvanized parts, otherwise the material will rot.
• Always leave gaps. If work is carried out in the cold season - 9 mm, in the warm season - 6 mm.
• Vinyl products should not be scratched or damaged in any way. If this happens, they should be left for pruning.
• Finishing the facades of log cabins is possible only six months after the construction of the building, so that it has time to settle.

Self-plating a house with siding is a rather complicated, time-consuming and lengthy procedure. To conduct it correctly, you must carefully study the instructions that come with the material, as well as follow the above recommendations. The lined facade must be washed and treated only with approved means and methods.

Additionally, we suggest watching a video that talks about common mistakes when installing siding.