Is it possible to sheathe a wooden house with metal siding. Sheathing the house with metal siding with your own hands. With imitation stone

Recently, old houses, as well as new buildings, are faced with decorative facades.

This is done so that the constructed building looks complete and beautiful.

The latest trend is siding.

Today we will talk with you how to properly clad a house with metal. Consider installation, advantages and disadvantages, and also perform some calculations.

Types of siding

According to the material used, siding is divided into types:

Characteristics of metal siding

Types of metal used

Panels for sheathing houses and buildings are made of different kind metals:

• Aluminum.
• Steel.
• Zinc.

wide practical use got steel metal panels.

They are usually covered with paint with a protective varnish, or a polymer composition. Aluminium, zinc and color coated panels are significantly more expensive than painted steel.

Types of produced sizes

Types of external attractiveness

During production, metal siding can be given any shape in the form of rounded wood, or in the form brickwork. That is, set any texture, relief, color and shade.

Also, the material has a perforation along the upper edge, which makes it possible to simplify the process of mounting on the frame, and also hides the heads of self-tapping screws for aesthetic beauty. Plus, this perforation reduces the stresses on the plates that occur during expansion and contraction from thermal fluctuations.

Also in these plates there are special holes designed to remove excess moisture from the skin.

Calculation of materials and components

Before buying material, you should draw up a plan with clear dimensions and calculations of the amount of material.

To do this, we make a detailed drawing on a piece of paper, indicate the height of the building, the width of the walls, the dimensions and doors. To calculate the number of elements, you should find out the usable area.

It is calculated according to the formula:

S total = S walls - S openings

If you are planning brick house and do it yourself with your own hands, it’s good to draw up a layout of the strips of material on the walls. Also, this diagram will help with installation.

Now we will calculate the auxiliary components:

1. Finish and start rails. As the name suggests, they are used for fastening the initial panel and for the final completion of the installation of panels. It is calculated as follows, the length of the perimeter of the house is divided by the length of the rail, and we get the right amount.
2. Internal and external corners. Used to decorate the corners of buildings. For decoration, it is better to use whole guides, as the seams will be visible and the aesthetic appearance will be disturbed. Therefore, the number of corners is equal to the number of profile.
3. J-profile. Used as a completion of the vertical plane of window, doorways and diagonal gables. The length of all listed elements is summed up in running meters and is divided by the length of the J-profile.
4. H-profile. Used to connect the panels themselves. Usually sold by the piece. The quantity can be calculated according to your scheme.
5. window profile. Used in cases where the depth of the door or window openings deeper than 20 mm. You can use J-profile as an alternative if its width matches. Also sold by the piece.
6. platbands. Used for finishing openings. Sold individually.

It should be noted that, like most materials, siding should be bought with a 10-15% margin to protect yourself from additional costs.

And also different batches of the same color may vary in shades and match color scheme it will be very hard.

Pros and cons of metal siding

Advantages

Consider the main advantages of metal siding:

• Ideal for any climate. Ability to operate in temperature ranges from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
• When using siding, we create, which allows the wall and insulation to freely remove excess moisture, and fungus and mold do not appear from here.
• The service life of the material is over 50 years.
• High strength and practicality. The siding is not exposed to direct sunlight. Absolutely non-combustible material, and due to the high-quality coating does not rust.
• Ability to work at any time of the year. Convenience of finishing houses with complex geometry.
• Simplicity and speed of installation technology. Opportunity to do your own work.

Flaws

Now let's look at the cons:

• Since the metal does not heat, a layer of insulation is required.
• Bad scores. When it rains, you can hear the raindrops hitting the metal cladding.
• Under mechanical stress, dents may appear. Replacing an element is a laborious process, and bending is almost impossible.

How to sheathe a house with metal siding

Training

Like any installation process, this one also begins with a preparatory process.

1. To do this, remove all decorative elements from the wall surface (drainpipes, television antennas, etc.).
2. If the house is old, then you will need to clean the walls of dirt, repair all visible defects (chips, cracks).
3. Also, experts recommend processing the walls. This is often used for this. But only the entire surface should be treated along with the base.
4. Next, markup should be applied. This is done so that the vertical guides are perfectly aligned. To do this, you need a building level and a pencil. The interval between the posts is chosen equal to the width of the insulation or the length of the siding. But usually this distance is 50-60 cm.
5. Also, for ease of installation, you should mark the installation location of the fasteners and install the beacon. Horizontally, a place for fasteners is marked every 50 cm, and vertically every 80 cm.

crate

After all preparatory work Let's start installation.

1. To do this, we fasten the brackets, they are installed on a substrate made of, fastened with anchors or dowel nails.
2. Next, the guides are attached to the brackets, for this we use rivets or self-tapping screws.
3. The installation of vertical racks is carried out according to the following scheme: first, we install the extreme racks at the corners, and then we pull the thread or fishing line and set the rest of the guides.
4. Periodically check the level of the plane. It is better to use a metal profile as guides, and not wooden bars. Since even a well-treated tree will begin to rot and rot over time.
5. In order to speed up the process of assembling the crate, you should use. There is one caveat, if the length of the guide is not enough, then it should not be joined closely, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 1 cm, this is the so-called technological gap.

Warming

The next stage is the laying of insulation between the profile.

You can fix the insulation with the help of dowels-fungi. Thickness and density varies by region. If you use polystyrene, then all seams and cavities should be foamed with mounting foam.

A membrane material is laid on top of the insulation material, which ensures the condensate exit from the insulation side. The joints of the material must be glued with construction tape.

Installing additional items

Before fixing the siding itself, the installation of auxiliary elements should be carried out. So, first we fix the basement plums. From below we set the starting bar, and from above the final one. We install corner profiles in the corners.

At the joints of the panels, we install flashings. Experts recommend applying sealing tapes to the frame at corners and joints, which will then be clamped by the siding and protect the internal elements from snow and rain. Framing window and door openings.

Now you can begin to install the first row of siding on the facade of the building, to the starting bar. Fastened with self-tapping screws into the profile holes on top of the panel. The self-tapping screw is placed strictly in the middle of the hole and is not tightened to the stop. With this we make the panel moveable as a result of temperature fluctuations. Next, we install the next row, and so on until we assemble the entire sheathing system.

Metal siding is often used as a cladding for a private house - it is strong, aesthetically attractive, durable and does not require special care. siding wooden house does not require serious construction skills, you can cope with the installation with your own hands. How to do it right?

Before starting work, you should accurately calculate how much material will be required. Siding should be purchased with a small margin, since the shades of one product in different batches may vary slightly.

1. Calculate the area of ​​all surfaces that you want to cover with siding, subtract the area of ​​window and door openings.
2. Measure the height of all outside corners buildings, add up the resulting values. Do the same for the inner corners.
3. Calculate separately the total perimeter of the building, separately the perimeter of door and window openings.
4. Calculate the length of the gables and cornices.

Preparation for work

Surfaces that are planned to be covered with siding should be pre-prepared, exactly following the step-by-step instructions:

1. Remove gutters, antennas, lanterns, platbands and all decorative elements from the house.
2. Dismantle the old casing.
3. Check the condition of the logs or timber.
4. Process the walls special formulations against decay and pests.

Tools for the job

To install metal siding with your own hands, you will need:

• circular saw, grinder or metal shears;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• a hammer;
• long level (hydraulic level);
• square;
• plumb;
• screwdriver;
• protective glasses;
• construction gloves.

In addition, you will need scaffolding that you can do yourself.

Lathing device

Frame assembly is one of the most milestones. Doing it with your own hands, you must strictly adhere to the instructions and constantly monitor your work with the help of a level. Errors when installing the crate will affect the final result: the surface lined with siding will be uneven.

It is advisable to watch a video before starting the installation, which captures the procedure in detail in order to understand all the nuances of the process.

Markings are made over the entire surface of the facade using a level: vertical lines are drawn at a distance of 60–70 cm from each other.

Profile mounting

The next step is to attach the planks. It is better to use a metal profile. Wooden slats are destroyed much faster, and with them the whole structure will become unusable much earlier than the due date.

To set the profile correctly and evenly, use a long level. If the wall has irregularities in some place, the degree of inclination of the profile is adjusted using fasteners.

The profile is fixed not only on the wall surface, but also along the perimeter of all window and door openings, as well as at the panel joints.

After the crate is formed, install the fastening strips for the siding. To do this, use short screws. With your own hands, this work should be done very carefully - if you do not observe the exact distance between the fastener strips, then the siding panels will move. This will lead to deformation of the entire structure.

Warming

Simultaneously with the sheathing, the outer walls are usually insulated. The insulation is fixed between the wall and the crate.

Any type of heat-insulating material can be laid under metal siding. It must be remembered that there must be a technological gap between the insulation layer and the frame. It is necessary for the internal ventilation of the facade.

Insulation in the form of plates should be laid, tightly pressing them one to the other. Work starts from the bottom, goes up. Plate-shaped dowels are used to fix the material: for a plot of 1 m², about 6 dowels are needed, at the corners - 12.

A waterproofing film can be laid on top of the insulation, but sometimes they do without it.

The film is cut into segments of the desired size, applied along the bottom of the wall, fixed with screws with a wide cap. The next segment is overlapped with the lower one so that there are no gaps. The seams are sealed with tape. You can watch the video to avoid mistakes when doing this work and do everything right.

Panel fixing

The installation of siding panels starts from the bottom up.
First, a launch pad is installed around the entire perimeter of the house. For fixing, nails or screws are used, inserting them into ready-made holes (it is unacceptable to drive nails into the bar itself). To avoid skew, the evenness of the starting line is checked with a level.

The first panel is inserted into the initial bar, the upper edge is screwed to the crate with screws. You do not need to screw them all the way - the metal panels are under the influence natural conditions may deform, expand or slightly decrease in size. A screw that is too tight can damage them. For the same reason, panels should not be installed close to the additional elements: a special outer corner is used to decorate the corners.

You can mount the panels both immediately around the entire perimeter of the house, and separately on each wall.

Window openings are made using sloping slats, platbands and aquilon.
For the last row adjacent to the roof, finish strips are taken; shaped and corner elements will also be required.

Vertical installation of siding

Do-it-yourself vertical fastening of panels is practically no different from horizontal. The only difference is the different structure of the crate.
In this case, you will need to install not only vertical, but also horizontal guides. The markup is done as follows: vertical lines are drawn at a distance of 100–150 cm, between horizontal lines they stand 80–100 cm. On the video, you can clearly study the whole process.

The initial panel can serve as a horizontally laid starting or corner strip.

It should be borne in mind that with vertical fastening of the panels, the consumption of materials will increase.

The process of siding a private house with siding is a rather painstaking process, but if you follow the instructions, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

A couple of years after the construction of a wooden house for the owners, the question arises exterior finish. Help comes finishing material siding.

Siding externally transforms the house, hides imperfections and reliably protects the house from frost, bad weather, and moisture. The main advantage of siding is easy installation. The owner is quite capable of sheathing their house on their own, without hiring a construction team and without spending extra money.

What is necessary:

1. choose the type of siding for decoration;
2. carefully study the installation instructions;
3. make preparations and get started.

Before you start the exterior decoration, decide on the view it will be:

• vinyl,
• wooden,
• metal,
• fiber cement.

In the cladding of houses, metal siding is widely used. This is the most popular option chosen by the owners of wooden houses.

What are the pros and cons of this type of siding?

Metal siding is long panels, lightweight, 120, 300 and 550 mm wide, made of thin-sheet galvanized steel, often with a thickness of 0.35 to 1 mm. Each panel is equipped with locks with which they are fastened together.

Important: Advantages of metal siding:

• serves for a long time
• resistant to different temperatures and their differences,
• mold and other bacteria do not form,
• durable
• not combustible
• the presence of hidden fasteners, in which the design looks neat.

metal siding covered polymeric material(polyester, plastisol, pural) or painted with a special powder. With the latter method, the color may be more varied.

Help: Disadvantages of metal siding:

• the likelihood of corrosion during atmospheric phenomena,
• low level of sound insulation (for example, when it rains),
• possibility of delamination polymer coating from the galvanized layer.

We calculate the amount for facing the house

• contacting a specialist;
• on one's own.

When deciding to save and sheathe the house on your own, the calculation required material simple enough.

For calculations you will need the following items:

• tape measure to measure
• paper and pencil to sketch
• calculator to calculate.

First, we consider how many siding panels we need. Next, we calculate Additional materials and trim elements.

Calculation steps:

1. We calculate how much area of ​​​​the house we will sheathe.

First, we draw a sketch of the structure with a pencil, in case of a complex layout, we take this into account in the sketch, including the location of the panels. It is desirable to apply all sizes to the sketch.

Next, we calculate the area of ​​​​the material according to the scheme - the total area minus the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindow and door openings. We get the original figure, we add another seven or ten percent to it for unused material. If the exterior design of the house is complex, add 10-15% to this.

1. Divide the area obtained, taking into account the percentage of waste, by the usable area of ​​​​one strip of siding.

You can also calculate the material directly from the sketches. To calculate the panels, divide the height of the house by the usable area of ​​the panel.

1. We calculate additional elements for metal siding

In addition to the material itself, for a quality installation, you will have to purchase additional components.

1. Starting and finishing rail.

The starting rail is used for fasteners when mounted bottom row panels, and finishing - at the final stage of sheathing. The required amount is calculated in the amount of "linear meter" at the base of the house (length). If the calculation is in pieces, we divide the meters by the length of one bar.

1. J - profile.

It is attached to the plane, or rather to its end. Needed for edging vertical (windows, doors) and diagonal cuts (pediments). Its calculation is made in running meters. We got a number and divide it by the length of the profile.

1. Corners (inside and outside).

Count the number of angles and multiply by the length. The figure that we received is divided by the length of the profile.

1. Connecting H-profile (T-bar).

Not always used: if the length of the siding panel exceeds the length of the wall, or if separation of colors is needed. After all, the connection of panels can be done with an overlap.

1. Window trim (window profile).

It is also not always used when the door or window opening is deepened by more than twenty millimeters (then the width of the J-bar is suitable), but less than 180 millimeters (width of the window bar).

1. Platband. Its function is to finish openings. Consider it pieces. Easily replaces the J-profile.
2. F - profile (cornice board). It is mounted if a cornice or wind board is hemmed.

Required tool.

Siding and accessories calculated. Now we prepare the tools for installation:

• scissors or saw for cutting metal. Do not use a grinder, it can damage the material,

• perforator. Needed to drill additional holes in the fastener material,
• punch, a tool for punching holes. He cuts the metal and makes a slight bend to one side,
• we use a screwdriver in the case of fastening a strip of siding with a self-tapping screw,
• hammer to nail the strip,
• a rivet gun will be needed to secure simple outer corners with rivets,
• with a nozzle on the drill we twist the screws with a sealant, in this process it is better not to use staples,
• we choose a tape measure with a fabric strip, a metal strip can scratch the panel,
• long or laser building level,
• plumb;
• wooden or plastic square,
• special goggles for eye protection,
• gloves for builders, this is cut protection, as you work with metal material.

Frame preparation

The key point in siding is the preparation of the surface of the house and the installation of the frame (). It is important to create ventilation here, since condensate accumulates under the material inside, which can lead to corrosion.

When preparing the walls:

• remove hanging objects (plants, shutters, lanterns, etc.),
• you notice mold, treat the surface with an antiseptic,
• check corners, slopes, irregularities.

After that, we begin to do the crate. The crate can be:

• metal;
• wooden.

When installing the frame, use a level and a plumb line for alignment.
The pitch of the crate is 400-600 millimeters (no more).

With walls (for more information about wall insulation from the outside, see) under the crate, the width of the material and the step of the crate are made approximately the same. We attach the insulation to the wall, cover it with a film on top that performs the function of vapor-waterproofing. Are there seams in the film? Tape them with tape to prevent moisture from getting in.

The technology of sheathing with metal siding of a wooden house

After installing the crate, we begin to mount the panels. This process sequentially consists of the following points.

1. In the lower part of the wall 40 mm above the lower edge of the first (lower) siding panel, we install the initial bar. We fix it to the crate using rivets, nails or galvanized screws. At this stage, the strict horizontal position of the bar should be observed.
2. When the initial bar is installed, we fix the outer and internal corners, flashings. Put them in a strict vertical position and attach them to the crate with plumb lines.
3. Next, we continue to mount the siding from the bottom to the top. We snap the first (lower) panel to the initial bar and fasten it to the crate with self-tapping screws. First, we look: evenly and to the end, it snapped into place along the entire length.

IMPORTANT! Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the perforation hole (not all the way).

4. Trim metal siding panels to length so they fit freely between flashings (H-profile) and corners. We leave a clearance on each side of at least 6-9 millimeters (between the end of the panel and the vertical elements).
5. We frame the window using a drainage system, aquilon and a slope bar. They close the window opening and protect from precipitation. We cut the siding panels to size, then fasten them to the crate, mount the ebb and other elements of the frame of the opening.

Finally, a couple of tips for handling metal siding.

Important: Handle the material carefully, because it can be damaged even before installation. So, unloading it, lay it on a horizontal base.

It is better that several people carry out unloading, so as not to bend it, moving it, and not to drag it.

Any independent business is the responsibility of the owner for the result. Therefore, it is better to carefully study the process by previewing the training video and analyzing several sources. It is better to do the work slowly, but with high quality, checking the process to the smallest detail.

If you decide to upgrade appearance your home quickly, efficiently and for a long time, then you will surely opt for the now popular material - siding. It has many advantages, but the main ones are quick installation, durability and unpretentious maintenance.

In addition, with it you can insulate the house, and you will not need to paint it every couple of years, unlike other materials. Today we will tell you, the facade of the house from metal siding.

Differences of metal siding

Siding panels have several types:

• metal;
• Vinyl;
• Cement;
• Wooden;
• Socle.

In turn, metal siding can be made of aluminum or steel, with a width of 100 to 300 mm.

It is a profiled panel with a painted or polymer coating.

• Polymer panels are more practical, but they have little choice flowers, and the price for them is more expensive.
• The surface is coated with anti-corrosion varnish, which increases its wear resistance.
• The texture of the material can be smooth or embossed.
• The service life of metal siding is more than 50 years, which can be compared with cement siding. Other types are less durable: wood will last you about 15 years, vinyl - from 20 to 50.
• Unlike wood, metal does not burn or rot, and is highly resistant to acids and alkalis.
• The sun's rays will not spoil the walls after a few years, the shape will remain the same, and the color will not fade and will be just as bright.
• Metal panels are much stronger than vinyl panels.

That is why metal siding cladding is popular on facades with high requirements and load: shops, shopping centers, gas stations, factories.

However, this material also has its drawbacks: dents remain on it and it is easy to damage it during installation - a thin layer of paint disappears and corrosion begins.

Material calculation

Before proceeding with the purchase of material, you need to determine its quantity. In order to correctly calculate required amount siding, sketch your house in proportion. Then divide the surface of the walls into geometric shapes.

The calculation instruction will look something like this:

1. Separately calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwalls, windows and doors;
2. From general meaning take away the area of ​​​​openings that do not need to be sheathed;
3. To calculate the components, calculate the total perimeter of the house;
4. Calculate the length of the cornices, gables;
5. Add the length of all corners, separately for internal and external;
6. Calculate the perimeter of window and door openings.

In accordance with your calculations, purchase the siding and accessories for its fastening, which are shown in the photo. Also do not forget to buy drainage for window sills and cornices.

Advice!
When buying material, take it with a margin so as not to use small scraps and not to buy more later. Please note that the shades of siding and fasteners in different batches may vary slightly.

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to free the facade from unnecessary details. Remove all antennas, gutters, architraves and window sills.

Carefully inspect the surface of the facade for crumbling plaster and cracks, to do this, tap it. Cracks must be sealed with cement mortar.

If the facade of the house is made of wood, replace the bad boards and nail them. To stop the decay of the tree in the future, treat the facade with a primer with an antiseptic.

Required Tools

Without this set of tools, fixing metal siding to the facade with your own hands will be a problem, so if you don’t have much of this, it may be a profitable solution to hire workers.

• To cut profiles, strips, you will need a grinder, a circular saw or metal shears.
• For measuring work, you must have a level, plumb line, square and tape measure.
• When creating a frame, you will need a puncher or a drill and a hammer.

• To work at height you need scaffolding. You can make your own or rent them.
• It is also necessary to ensure the safety of the work, so wear safety glasses and gloves.

crate

It is important to install the frame as accurately as possible, since the subsequent evenness of the walls directly depends on this stage.

• Mark the walls with a long level. The distance between the cells of the frame should be 60-100 centimeters.
  Please note that it is necessary to leave a technological gap for ventilation of the facade between the insulation and the cladding. It should be 4-10 centimeters wide.
• For fastening metal siding, it is recommended to use galvanized profiles, since the tree can withstand less stress and quickly becomes unusable.
• Secure them with leveling brackets and self-tapping screws to the wall. It is also necessary to fix them around the perimeter of door and window openings and at the joints of the panels.

Note!
If the length of 1 profile is not enough, the vertical guides should not be joined together.
There should be a technological gap of 10 mm between them. For rigidity, you can connect vertical profiles with horizontal jumpers.
Their fastening occurs with an overlap, for which the side walls on the jumpers are cut off.

Working with insulation

Sheathing a house with metal siding is often accompanied by building insulation. External wall insulation is the most profitable solution, as it can significantly reduce the thickness bearing walls, and does not steal the area inside the house.

To do this, the insulation layer is tightly attached to the facade using dish-shaped dowels (umbrellas). For each square meter you need to hammer in at least 5 dowels, and at the corners - 12 pieces.

It is recommended to use insulation for siding with a density of at least 80-100 kg per cubic meter. Its thickness is determined by calculation, but if it exceeds 15 cm, then it must be applied in 2 layers. For the Moscow region, a heater thickness of 10 cm is usually used.

In order to protect the insulation from moisture and weathering, a windproof membrane is attached to it with a stapler.

Related articles:

Panel fixing

• After installing the insulation under the siding, we fasten the components, basement drains, because then it will be inconvenient to do this.
• The starting bar is installed from below in a horizontal position. Above is the final one.

• At the corners and at the joints, you need to install corner profiles and flashings that will hide the ends of the siding panels.
• It is highly desirable to protect the interior of the facade from rain and snow. To do this, a universal sealant is glued to the frame on the corners, around windows and doors, which is then pressed against the siding.
• If the house is lined with metal siding in a horizontal position, then the fastening starts from the bottom up from the corner of the house.
• The first panel is attached to the starting bar. Firmly insert the panel into the lath and fix the top edge with self-tapping screws to the crate. Fastening should take place in the center of the perforated holes. The edges must be inside the corner profiles or flashings.

Note!
So that after installation the siding panels do not rattle from the wind, you should not screw in the screws too much. Loosen them to provide room for thermal distortion.
It is also important to leave a ventilation gap of 5-10 mm between the edges of the panel and the vertical elements. Starting and finishing strips should not be fastened closely, but with a gap of 5 mm to each other.

• All subsequent panels are mounted in the same way on top of each other and fixed from above.

• For window framing, a sloping bar, aquilon and platband are used. A window drain is installed on the window sill.
  When mounting the edging, you must first install the parts from the bottom, and then the side ones.
• To fit the siding around the window, try on the panel and make marks, with a margin of 5-10 mm. Make vertical cuts on them. To mark the horizontal cut point, fasten a short piece of panel under the window, and make marks along the two edges, leaving 5 mm for the margin. Transfer the line to the full panel and cut it with metal shears.
• To fix the last panel - cut it to the desired width and insert it inside. On the one hand, it will be held by siding, on the other, the final plank. You can also use a regular corner or top tide, fixing them with self-tapping screws from the visible side.

Vertical fastening siding

The vertical fastening of the panels occurs in exactly the same way, only in this case it is necessary to change the structure of the crate. Be sure to use horizontal and vertical guides. The distance between the horizontal profiles of the cell should be from 80 to 100 cm, and between the vertical ones - 100-150 cm.

As a start panel, a horizontally located corner bar or start is used.

It should be noted that with this method of fastening, the consumption of materials will increase, due to a more complex frame.

We invite you to look detailed video installation of metal siding on the facade:

Conclusion

In this article, we described in detail how to sheathe a house with metal siding. If you have already dealt with other types of this material, then you should be able to install it without any problems. The use of this material will allow you to transform the facade of any old house, make it warmer and hide flaws.

To date, sheathing a house with metal siding has become a fairly popular method of exterior decoration of building facades. First of all, it is related to good combination price and quality of this material.

In addition, it has certain advantages that the owners of wooden buildings should pay attention to. The main thing is to carry out the installation correctly and correctly on the basis of the existing rules and expert advice.

Home decoration should always be carried out only with the help of high-quality and reliable materials. Among them, it is worth highlighting metal siding. Before sheathing a building with it, you need to figure out how positive qualities he possesses. Among them, experts highlight the following advantages of this material:

• Simplicity and speed of installation on the facade of the building.
• Available for a wide range buyers cost.
• High level of durability.
• Practicality of use.
• No rusting process.
• Non-combustible even at high temperatures.
• Durability, expressed in the operational period of at least 50 years.
• Possibility of use in the range from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.

Metal siding is even used to equip ventilated curtain walls. Its installation is carried out on a specially prepared crate attached to the walls of the structure.

When finishing a house, it is very important to initially install the bottom row of siding in a horizontal position, after which the rest are adjusted to the position of the first plank.

Required tool

In order to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, you must first prepare the appropriate tool. Among the devices and fixtures, it is worth highlighting the following things:

• construction roulette;
• homemade plumb;
• building level (water or laser);
• a hammer;
• marker or pencil;
• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• perforator;
• screwdriver

For sheathing a house with siding, it is also necessary to prepare self-tapping screws, through which the material is attached directly to the crate itself. Their size should depend on what the building itself is made of (wood, blocks, bricks, etc.).

It should be noted that the preliminary organization of the process of sheathing and finishing houses with metal siding greatly facilitates this type of activity and speeds up its implementation.

Preparatory work

For proper conduct work must first prepare the surface. This implies the elimination of existing defects on the facades. These specialists, first of all, include exfoliated sections of plaster or fallen off bars and boards of a wooden house. It is also worth completely removing dust from the building. In addition, it is necessary to dismantle various devices, such as antennas, drain pipes, signs, etc.

When there are no obstacles left for further work on the house, it is worth approaching the beginning of the markup. To do this, it is worth understanding some terms, among which the most important is capture. It means the surface that the master is going to sheathe with one plank of metal siding. These zones should be marked on the facade with an archer or a pencil.

Additionally, it is worth noting the places where the cladding will be fastened. The brackets should be spaced 60 centimeters horizontally and 80 centimeters vertically. Once this is done, the appropriate beacons can be installed.

Installing brackets

It is necessary to install the brackets according to the previously applied grid. In order to do this, you need to drill holes in the walls for those dowels that will later be used for screws. The brackets themselves should be mounted only on the isolon gasket.

In order to properly sheathe the house, it is worth choosing the length and type of brackets in accordance with the existing conditions. If the walls of the building are very uneven, then by fixing this structural element at its lowest point, it should protrude slightly beyond the edge of the largest convex part of the façade.

For example, if the structure has depressions of about 10 centimeters, then the length of the brackets must be at least 12 centimeters in the deepest place in the vertical plane. Thus, the cladding of the building with metal siding will be carried out as correctly and correctly as possible.

Thermal insulation layer

Not less than important element of all work is the process of building insulation. It is very important to place the slabs of the respective material right next to each other. There should be no gaps between them. through which he can winter period time to pass cold air. For installation, you can use special dish-shaped nails.

Dish-type fasteners are distinguished by the presence of a large plastic cap, which allows you to hold the plates well, preventing them from deforming. It is worth using 6-7 nails per square meter of insulation. In this case, a wooden rural hut can become more comfortable and cozy in the winter, when the frost reaches -40 degrees Celsius.

Installation of profiles and other elements

When all work on the insulation of the building is completed, it is worth starting the installation of guides for metal siding. They must be installed on brackets, using self-tapping screws measuring 4.8x28 millimeters for connection. Instead, special rivets can also be used.

Once the guides are installed, it is worth adjusting the length of the brackets to align the structure in the vertical plane. When this is done, you can start installing drain fixtures, corner joints, etc. Do not forget about the slope strips for the window sill.

Facing should begin with a basement drain and a metal siding guide bar. It is worth attaching these elements to a wooden or brick house using self-tapping screws 4.2x16 millimeters. Installation of this kind is carried out along the lower edge of the vertical profiles.

In order for the sheathed house to look beautiful, it is necessary to check the installation of each element using the building level. If at least one plank is attached incorrectly, the end result will be unsatisfactory, which will require the work to be done again.

Siding fixing

Sheathing a house with metal siding strips should be carried out in a certain order:

• It is worth attaching the first row of siding to the starting bar.
• The upper edge of the first row of planks should be attached with self-tapping screws to the installed guide profiles.
• The next rows should be mounted in the same way. In this case, it is imperative to check their horizontal level.
• At the final stage, it is worth making the last row adjoin the roof with the help of shaped elements and special strips.

Metal siding is strictly contraindicated to be closely installed to vertical elements. This is due to the fact that this material is able to change its dimensions depending on temperature regime on the street. Tree on conditions environment also reacts, but it does not deform very much, changing its dimensions in comparison with the metal.

Conclusion

Before you start sheathing a house using metal siding strips, you need to learn how to properly carry out this work so as not to make mistakes. In this case, you can get really good results for many years. It is possible to finish in this way not only brick and block, but also wooden structures, which is a huge advantage for this material.