Do-it-yourself brick wall oven. Schemes and drawings of brick ovens - the correct laying. What materials are used to create the stove

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The oven is rude and a source of considerable confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In Western and, partially, in South Slavic languages, it is either just a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for a summer kitchen with 150-200 bricks. Well, according to Dutch, Swede, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. fly out on a request in RuNet.

In fact, a stove with a coarse, or simply a coarse, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating shield, separate from the stove according to the thermal cycle, but technologically integrated, i.e. they are built jointly (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there can be no bell-shaped coarse - heating shields for furnaces are always channel. Do-it-yourself rough is built simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires fewer materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (similar to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude people are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: heating and cooking rough brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

Do-it-yourself grubka can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction works, but her thermal power limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great tension. Therefore, rough-slabs are mostly installed in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

Rough with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. current circuit flue gases in a rude with a shield is given in pos. 3; the popular Galanka oven was built on this basis. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during the construction, it will be necessary to pay special attention to some features of the coarse furnaces, which are considered in a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: wood-fired roughening can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the couch overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough oven can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (firing) part and shield are calculated separately, and then “glued” together according to the rules for conjugating building structures, taking into account the requirements of heat engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because. the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing part and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its consideration, it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, if you live in a region with a harsh climate, it may only make sense for you as a seasonal temporary oven.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences between a rough stove and a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth traps hot gases under hob, which in the summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In rough it is not needed, because. excess heat will be used for heating.

The coarse furnace should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool down. Them thermal energy will go into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This is the reason for the special requirements for the firebox and furnace fittings of coarse, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, heating shields are coarse for them. different types. Schemes of heating shields for furnaces are given in fig. below; the fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Consistent stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to the current of gases is the greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential move with horizontal channels. The mass and dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to arrange a couch, i.e. the upper channel does not get very hot;
3. Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is like that of a shield with horizontal channels, technological complexity is like that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. The highest thermal efficiency, the smallest mass per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Use with a fire chamber of the reduced power is possible. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most complex, but also the lightest, resistance to the flow of gases is the least. Only possible variant for a rough house with a heated attic, see below.

Special Requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rude - compactness and the possibility of building in an existing house without capital construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful furnace in the structure of the furnace in general of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable due to excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met for:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry solutions.
• Ways of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installation of furnace fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is given in Fig. The crushed stone pillow without sand filling is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Filling mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the cut logs! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude on the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the furnace is laid out with dressing in rows and between rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar, as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. Sand for clay mortar is highly desirable to take mountain or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-digging clay, brought to the desired fat content with sand, is of little use for rough masonry.

masonry

For masonry, a stove is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay bricks; the red worker is suitable for the highest quality - light red in color (completely annealed), without burn marks, warping and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is rough. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove-maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in trimming / chipping of bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. It is impossible to plump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of mortar 5 mm is applied to the bed and poke of the brick being laid.
• The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly with an inclination and moved to the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam converges to 3 mm; can't be tapped!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after cleaning the excess mortar are filled with mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

accessories

Fittings and grates for coarse need cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in fig. on the right, it’s impossible to be rude; It's not by oven rules at all. For a country Dutch woman 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will work, but not for being rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to compress the whiskers (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with wrapping so that they do not move. Press at first not tight, set at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then gently tighten, shake the door/latch lightly. Haven't left? Good. Then, secondly, you need to wrap the skirt tightly with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories in the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grate and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple coarse for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. The peculiarity is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. rice. - the ordering of a single-burner coarse is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This option is more for a hunting lodge or a summer house, where they spend the weekend in the winter.

Further on fig. - ordering the house heating and cooking coarse with switching to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is quite complicated, but quite economical both in winter and in summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. - ordering and drawings of the heating rough - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment - with a facade to the living room and rear to 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them falls on the back side (back) of the furnace. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the scheme and order are rough with a stove bench: a cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; couch - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove-maker. For a firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because. there is no switchover to summer running.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with staggered channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass firebox door. She is 2-way; ZLH on the drawings - the valve of the summer course.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here it is only necessary to note that the best chimney for rough is a sandwich one, because. it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), don't rush to build, model on the table first. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a kit for modeling furnaces with ordering schemes and plastic bricks on a scale, such are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from foam. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners do not represent a private house without an oven - and this is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, then the stove will also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn, when full-fledged heating is no longer needed, but you don’t want to breed excessive dampness in the house either. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, the rooms can maintain an optimal balance of humidity and heat.

Fold the oven with your own hands step-by-step instruction which has intricate configurations - for a beginner it will be quite difficult. Therefore, if there is no experience in the furnace business, then it is better to choose an affordable ordering option that will be easy to figure out.

When choosing a model, it is necessary to take into account not only the simplicity of the circuit, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the furnace, since there are furnaces that do not provide all the functions. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area that the heating structure should heat.

There are a lot of models of stoves, since experienced stove-makers, working on one of them, make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new options for the heater appear. And to stop at one of the types of furnaces, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.

Prices for fireclay bricks for laying furnaces

fireclay brick

Types of brick ovens

There are t Three main types are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.

• A heating and cooking stove can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for heating water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure is able to heat one or two rooms of a certain area.

Such stoves are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall into the living room. Thus, the stove performs a triple function - it works as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it provides dry heat to the bedroom or living room.

• work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain a balance of moisture and heat in the house in autumn or spring, when it is too early to turn on heating system or have not turned on the central one yet.

It is good to install such an oven, for example, in the country, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in the holiday village is often turned off, then it is better to choose a building with a hob for installation.

• The cooking version of the stove can also serve for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for country house or for a small building for permanent residence.

With such a stove and a supply of firewood, you can not worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea when the electricity or gas is turned off.

It should be noted that any type of furnace can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the furnace structure depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house or room, as well as the place that is allocated for construction.

Choosing a place to install the oven

When choosing a place for the construction of a furnace, it is necessary to provide for the nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable operating conditions, but also for reasons of fire safety. It is especially important to consider location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney should not stumble when it is erected on beams attic floor or at rafter legs roofs.

The stove is installed at the inner bearing wall, in the middle of the room or built into a wall located inside the house.

• It is not recommended to build a furnace near an external wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency of its use will be significantly reduced.
• In the middle of a large room, the stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative trim it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
• When building a stove into a partition between rooms, it is imperative to provide for its isolation from combustible wall materials using heat-resistant asbestos sheets or special drywall.
• The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm larger than its base in each direction, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the stove.
• In order to make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose a model to which the ordering scheme is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation site is determined, you can proceed to the acquisition of materials and preparation of all necessary tools. The quantity and range of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used in masonry are always the same.

Tools to get the job done

For the process of building a furnace, you will need the following fixtures and tools:

A) A pickaxe is used for hewing and splitting bricks.

B) The furnace hammer has the same functions as the pick, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.

C) The rule is used to level the concrete on the foundation surface. Often it is made independently from a perfectly flat planed board.

D) A wooden spatula is used for grinding and mixing the clay solution.

D) Level - essential tool, as it will help to maintain the evenness of the rows, both in the horizontal and vertical direction.

E) A brush of bast is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the internal surfaces of the furnace.

G) Pliers are used to cut off and bend steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron structural elements.

H) Lead scriber is used for marking when decorating the stove with tiles.

I) Stukalce - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.

K) Scriber-rod for markings.

K) The rasp is used to grind lumps and remove sagging on the finished masonry.

M) The construction angle is necessary to remove the internal and outside corners 90 degrees.

H) A plumb bob is used to check the verticality of the walls.

A) A rubber mallet is used for tapping bricks laid in a row.

P) A chisel is needed for parsing old masonry and splitting bricks.

P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to the rows of bricks during masonry.

C) Jointing will be needed if the stove is not lined finishing material, and the seams between the rows will be neatly shaped.

In addition, you will need two containers for mortar and water, as well as a sieve for sand, if the solution is made independently.

The laying of the upper rows will be easier if there are "goats"

For the convenience of carrying out work, you need to have scaffolds, which are called “goats” in another way. It is convenient to stand on them, carrying out masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides a place for installing a container with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace

• The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the general foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since one of them may damage the other if deformed or shrinkage.
• If the furnace will be built in an already built on a belt or column foundation a house with a wooden floor, you will have to open the coating and build a foundation for the stove from the ground.
• If a compact model of the furnace is chosen, and a slab foundation is arranged under the house, then the heating structure can be erected directly on itby making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sun still, you will have to equip it from scratch, you need to remember that it must have the same shape as the base of the furnace, but protrude beyond it by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction.

• on wooden semi marked out the contour of the foundation, a part of the boardwalk is sawn according to the markings.
• Further, a pit of the required size is dug in the underground soil, with a depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
• The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bed is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Pit under the furnace foundation with a sand and gravel "cushion"

• After that, roofing material can be laid around the perimeter of the pit, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After the concrete mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the foundation.

Instead of roofing felt, formwork made of boards covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet can be used.

It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the furnace rises 70 ÷ 100 mm above the floor. In this way, bricks can be saved and the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation can be simplified.

• A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
• The next step is to install a reinforcing grate made of metal wire or a finished mesh at the bottom of the pit. The elements of the lattice are interconnected by means of a twist of wire.

Foundation reinforcement - option

• The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared pit. It may consist of gravel, sand and cement— 1:2:1 or gravel and cement 3:1. This layer should take up approximately ⅓ of the space to be filled.
• After pouring the first layer, immediately knead and pour the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions of 3: 1.

The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remain to the top, which will be required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.

If necessary, for the upper layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then a reinforcing mesh with cells of 70 ÷ 80 mm can be laid on top of the poured mortar.

• Then the last one is poured upper layer solution and leveled using the rule.

The foundation is left for the maturation of concrete for 27÷30 days. It is advisable to moisten it daily with water and then cover it with plastic wrap - this will help make the concrete more monolithic and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid, which will protect brickwork stoves from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from the underground.

After that, you can proceed to the main work - laying the furnace.

A few recommendations for masonry work

• Before starting laying bricks on the mortar, the whole structure rises dry from the brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the ordering scheme.

Experienced stove-makers advise dry pre-laying to all craftsmen who take up the construction of a stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not make gross mistakes when fitting bricks in each of the rows.

For laying dry, you need to stock up wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the seam between the bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will need to be used for the main masonry, already carried out with a solution. Such a "calibration" of the thickness of the seam is especially necessary if the laying is done "for jointing", and must be flawless.

This process is carried out slowly, thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the furnace, and how it will enter the chimney.

• Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully dismantled. If at the same time the bricks were adjusted to size, then each row can be folded into a separate pile by marking the number of the row and the place in it on the bricks with a marker.
• Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully fitting all the details, it is mounted on the mortar.
• When the main masonry is done, two measuring rails are laid on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet until the brick rests against the measuring rail. The excess protruding solution is selected with a trowel.

• The slats are pulled out of the masonry after the installation of the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
• After pulling out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately “embroidered”.
• When laying on the mortar, each of the rows is checked using the building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of building any furnace, avoid "fatal" errors that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there is a large number of different types of ovens. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options that can be installed in small house, as it does not take up much space, but is able to heat a room with an area of ​​​​16 ÷ 17 m².

Yu. Proskurin's furnace design is a double-turn heating and cooking version equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.

If desired, a box can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber oven suitable size.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal/h. The design provides for two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for fuel economy and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without melting all constructions in the summer.

List of required materials

In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:

In addition, clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box are required for work, if decided, install an oven instead of a drying niche.

Scheme-ordering the construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is laid out in a continuous plane, observing the location of the bricks. It is very important to lay this row perfectly evenly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it.
	In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. On the same row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed.
	On the metal doors there are special ears, into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are completely fixed, the doors are supported by bricks on one or both sides.
	On the third row, the formation of the blower chamber and the lower part of the chamber of vertical channels continues. At the same time, there is a fixing on both sides of the installed doors.
	On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely covered with bricks. The common chamber of the vertical channels is divided in two, so instead of one large hole, two are formed, having a length of ⅔ of a brick and a width of half a brick.
	The fifth row is fully laid out with fireclay bricks. Above the ash chamber, a hole is formed with a seat for the grate. To do this, a part of the brick is cut out, from the side with which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber.
	The grate is mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay solution or laid freely, without a solution. There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and the brick.
	On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues.
	In addition, a furnace door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or overlaid with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress and damage.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them.
	On the ninth row, the furnace door is covered with bricks. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are ground off on one side, and a brick is installed between them, hewn on both sides.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that hot smoke from the furnace is directed precisely into this created hole. For a smooth flow of smoke, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry follows the scheme, except that cutouts are made on the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, which will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob.
	Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on the bricks, and the slab panel is mounted on them. From the side of the formation of the cooking niche, a steel corner is installed.
	The 12th row is laid out from red brick, and in the future all the masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are again formed, and a niche is being formed around the hob.
	The 13th row is laid according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing the summer-winter valve. After that, a valve is mounted on a clay-sand mortar.
	From the 14th to the 17th row, the laying is carried out according to the same principle - a cooking niche and channels are formed.
	On the 18th row, steel corners overlap the cooking niche. One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second - at a distance of a brick from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with the back side. This is done in order to make it convenient to carry out the laying of the next row.
	On the 19th row, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of an opening for the steam exhaust channel and a place for installing a valve. To do this, cutouts are made on the bricks into which the valve is mounted.
	20 row is laid out according to the scheme. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam exhaust hole continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is cramped.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined with the help of the hollow space left. In this row, almost all bricks are placed only along the walls of the perimeter of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is protected.
	In the same row, the resulting cavity is covered with metal strips, which are laid according to the scheme shown in the figure.
	Further, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney hole is organized, located on the opposite side from the steam exhaust hole.
	On the 22nd row, laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A hole for the chimney and two holes for vertical channels are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of a corner is laid, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more accurate.
	23rd row - a drying chamber is formed, and its back wall is made of bricks installed on its side. It will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel.
	On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, the chimney and two vertical channels are formed.
	25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first.
	On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine two vertical channels, so the inner bricks in both holes are grinded at a slight angle.
	27 row - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. For them, a common cleaning door is installed. The rest of the work goes according to the scheme.
	On the 28th row, the drying chamber is covered with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the overlapping of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is fixed with side bricks.
	On the 29th row, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely blocked. A hole in the chimney channel is left, which is lined with bricks with cut out mounting grooves for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sand mortar.
	On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be half a brick in size.
	31-32 row - formation begins chimney.

This figure shows the oven in section. The diagram clearly shows all the internal channels through which heated air will circulate.

How to make a brick oven with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step by step description, helpful tips.

Classification by intended use

1. Heating. Such furnaces are used only for space heating as the only or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
2. Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on the design

Direct-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the blower, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Cons of once-through furnaces:

• Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

• Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which holds heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Channel.

This type of furnace is an advanced direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms up the room. When installing channel furnaces, one should take into account the linear dependence of the coefficient useful action on the length and number of channels.

Bell-type.

Such stoves are used to retain heat in the room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends to rise up, where it is held by the cap. Cooling down, the air currents become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it exits through the hood.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

• They provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
• Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification according to material

brick

Pros:

• Autonomy. That is, once "refueling" the oven, you can not worry about it for a long time.
• Heat retention. Brick buildings do not conduct heat well, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

• They warm up for a long time.

Cast iron

Pros:

• Easy to install, no foundation required.
• Not fire hazardous.
• Compact.
• Heat up quickly.
• Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
• No additional cladding required.
• There are automatic cast iron stoves which independently regulate the temperature.
• High efficiency.
• Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
• Low price.

Minuses:

• They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Consider preparation:

• Foundation. If the furnace is calculated large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, then this is not necessary.
• Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
• Chimney. In no case should the chimney be adjacent to the beams on the ceiling. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
• Pipe. The protrusion of the pipe must necessarily be half a meter above the roof, but no further than one and a half.
• Furnace location. The place should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

• It is better to position the stove so that it heats as many rooms as possible. For example, if the house has several adjoining rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them, so that it heats everything.
• If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not back to back.

Tools and materials

Materials:

• Clay (for making masonry mortar).
• Sand.
• Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
• Pipe.
• Gravel.
• Wood.
• Cement.
• Ruberoid.
• Grate grate.
• Angle steel.
• Roofing steel.
• Wire.
• Nails.
• Steam valve.
• Oven.
• Doors (for the cooking chamber, blower, furnace).
• Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

• Furnace hammer.
• Ruler.
• Master OK.
• Pick.
• Square.
• Plumb.
• Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

• Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
• It keeps heat for a very long time, in some cases - two days.
• The firebox surrounds the fire from all sides and reduces the fire hazard level of the structure.

Minuses:

• Big size.
• Weighs a lot.
• Long warm up.
• After the break, a daily heating is required.
• Has the most complex structure of all possible types ovens.

The Russian stove is suitable as a permanent source of heat, it will completely replace and even surpass the stove, it can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation should be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

• simple masonry
• It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
• Heats up quickly.
• Weighs relatively little.
• Allows cooking.
• It does not need to be heated regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

• Cools down quickly.
• Low efficiency.

It turns out that the “Dutch” stove is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and occasional use.

Plain rectangular.

Pros:

• Doesn't take up much space.
• Simple construction.
• Low prices for material and fuel.

Minuses:

• Average efficiency.
• Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A conventional rectangular oven is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The oven is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

• Allows cooking.
• High efficiency.
• Quick warm up.
• Saves fuel.
• Relatively small size.
• Exist modern options with oven hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

• A booster is required.
• It has a difficult masonry for a beginner.

The Swede stove is suitable as the main source of heat in the room, can completely replace the stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

• Very low fire hazard.
• Aesthetic.
• High efficiency.
• Heat the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for decorating a house and for targeted use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's draw the drawings first. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the composition of the furnace.

• Foundation.
• Frame.
• Chimney.

The furnace consists of the following levels:

1. Foundation
2. Butovaya masonry.
3. Bookmark depth.
4. Waterproofing.
5. Furnace array.

Array Composition:

• Six.
• Undercoat.
• Underbay.
• Dushnik.
• Cover.
• Gate valve.
• Half door.

Pipe Composition:

• Overlap.
• Cutting.
• Insulation.
• Otter.
• head.
• Metal cap.
• Pipe stand.
• A metal sheet.
• Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed scheme for laying a brick oven.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's consider how to implement it using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

1. Designed for foundation waterproofing. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. Use during laying cement-sand mortar.
2. The second row is the basis for the walls of the care zone.
3. The third row is the walls of the guardianship (3/4 brick).
4. The fourth row is a support support.
5. The fifth row is located at the corners in order to create an arch support. Also use this row for laying out the oven.
6. The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary vault of guardianship.
7. A row for the arch begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The central brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be laid as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
8. The walls of the mantle are made of bricks from this row.
9. The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
10. The final row for guardianship. Between the bricks fill the gaps with sand, for the sake of insulation.
11. Strengthening the overlap of the guardianship with the addition of beveled bricks.
12. The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shet's masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
13. The bricks of this row will become the hearth and the cooking chamber. Additional installation of the mouth arc.
14. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
15. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
16. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
17. Fold up the supports for the arch of the cooking chamber.
18. It is made up of refractory bricks with a vault.
19. Six walls.
20. Six walls. Fill gaps with sand.
21. Masonry furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
22. Cover end. Installing a showerhead.
23. Channels of the samovar and overtubes.
24. The same channels.
25. Additional channel for the view.
26. The same channels.
27. Half door installation.
28. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
29. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
30. Connection of a pipe and a ventilator.
31. Valve installation.
32. Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a do-it-yourself oven: a description of the process.

1. Lay the foundation of.
2. Lay the first row (along the cord).
3. Lay the next rows with a level.
4. Control the corners with body kits.
5. From rows 1 to 11, use a cement-sand mortar, then a clay-sand mortar.
6. The output of the pipe is carried out at the end of all work.

How to build a do-it-yourself brick oven video:

• Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
• Choose a drawing that suits you.
• Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is traditional Russian).
• When transporting refractory bricks, be careful as they are very fragile.
• The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the places that need to be thoroughly heated.
• Do not forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

The laying of any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!

Currently, completely different elements and equipment are used to heat houses. However, the most traditional choice is considered to be a stove that can run on a variety of fuels, and can also have different sizes and other parameters. Fireplaces can even be created, but they are not designed to permanently heat a building. Especially often stove heating is created in a private house, since buildings are often built in a fairly large away from central systems heating.

A stand-alone stove option is considered an excellent choice, and at the same time a special heating and cooking surface can be formed, with which the stove can be used not only for heating the structure, but also for cooking and heating food.

Also various options furnaces can be made by hand, so the cost of this process will be minimal.

Main types of equipment

There are many types of stoves, which differ in various parameters. The most popular are:

• , which can be used not only for a private house, but also for a bathhouse or other small building that needs heating, and they can be equipped with various elements for comfortable sleep or cooking;
• , which can be used exclusively for space heating;
• rude, being pretty interesting option, they have, which allows them to be used both for cooking and as a heating system.

What are products equipped with rough

This oven has interesting parameters and features. This includes, first of all, the fact that the most popular material for creating a structure is one that has excellent parameters. These include excellent heat dissipation, so in the house such equipment will provide fast and uniform heating.

This material is considered very attractive, so the products obtained from it fit perfectly into any interior. Particularly relevant is the stove created do-it-yourself ceramic bricks, in rustic style. Well, this stove is suitable for buildings made of wood.

If desired, such equipment can be additionally decorated with the help, which has the same heat transfer performance as brick of this material. However, due to a more attractive and interesting appearance, the resulting design will fit perfectly into absolutely any interior. In this case, it is possible to build equipment that will have desired color and texture.

Structural elements of the stove

Coarse kilns are improved designs compared to straight-through elements. But, at the same time, it is not so difficult to create them with your own hands, but their very the device is considered simple. However, in order to make a really high-quality and reliable design, you must follow the instructions exactly, and also have at least the initial brickwork skills.

Read also: Stove heating in a two-story house

To complete all the steps with your own hands, you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich structural elements are included in the equipment. These include:

• Blower, which is a special chamber designed for the passage of air. It usually contains matching door, which allows a person to regulate the air supply. As a rule, between this element of the stove and the chamber where the fuel is burned, there is a grate.
• The firebox is the working chamber itself, which is designed for loading and burning fuel, in it there is a door.
• presented in the form of vertically arranged channels through which heated gas from burnt fuel.
• Coarse, which is used for cooking, can have different sizes and parameters.
• The chimney performs the function of a convector, but its main purpose is to remove exhaust gases from the room to the street. It is important that it has a door that allows cleaning the pipe, as well as a damper.

Before creating a design, a diagram of the future equipment must be developed and drawn, and this issue must be approached with all responsibility and seriousness. After all, drawings are the basis for the creation of the stove itself. If there are errors or shortcomings in them, then this can lead to the fact that with your own hands you will get a design that will not cope with its main tasks, and it can also be completely dangerous to use..

What materials are used to create the stove

You can make this design from completely different materials. These include:

• Brick, which is used for masonry, not only stoves are made from it, but also fireplaces. It is best to choose a ceramic brick, on the appearance of which depends attractiveness of the final design.
• Clay and sand, which are used to create a mortar used for laying bricks in a house.
• Cast iron grate used for stacking fuel, it can be used for both firewood and coal.
• Ruberoid, which allows you to create high-quality waterproofing of the furnace.
• for various structural elements.

Read also: How to heat a stove with charcoal

To build good and reliable equipment, all materials must be of high quality and beautiful, so their choice should be taken very seriously.

Stages of creating a stove with a rough

Making this design is actually not so difficult, but it is important to know what steps should be taken and each need to pay a lot of attention:

• A diagram of the future design is being created. Drawings can be generated independently or with the help of specialists. They need to be given a lot of attention, since the reliability and safety of the final structure depends on them. The diagram should contain dimensions and other basic parameters of the stove, and everything should be detailed in it. Even if standard fireplaces or designs without rubbing are created, there must still be drawings. The circuit is usually formed using special computer programs However, if you have the skills and experience, you can do it on paper.
• Creation stove foundation. Since fireplaces and stoves are most often made of brick, they should only be installed on a reliable and solid foundation. It must have optimal dimensions and parameters for the furnace, which you are planning to build. A place for the structure is determined, a trench of the required thickness and depth is pulled out, after which the bottom is well compacted, and a pillow of sand and gravel is laid. Next, a concrete solution is poured, after which the trench is filled with bricks. The resulting foundation should be covered with roofing material for high-quality insulation. All work is easy to do do it yourself no problem.
• The formation of the structures themselves. Stoves or fireplaces are laid from ceramic bricks, while cement mortar. When creating structures in the house, it is best to use while working with fireclay powder, which will not allow the surfaces of the oven to heat up too much during its use. The oven can be crafted with different types masonry. Bricks should be soaked before use about 10 minutes in water. During masonry, it is important to make sure that there are no cracks and gaps, however, it is also not necessary to use too much mortar for masonry, otherwise you can get a poor-quality and uneven oven.
• Installation is rough. The blower body is placed on the created row of bricks, and attached to it is a door.. It is best to wrap all the elements with an asbestos cord, after which about 4 more brick rows are placed. This is necessary to close the oven door. Next, the grates are mounted, and after laying the last row of bricks, you can proceed with the installation of the slab, which applied with mortar.
• Installing a chimney, which is usually a pipe that goes outside. It is important to use a thermal barrier where the element passes through the wall.

There are many options for heating a summer house today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters. But if it is not possible to realize all this due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of households, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove-maker are not cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project in your country house, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will talk about the principle of operation, features and layout of the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is properly beaten. Today, there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far home heating technologies have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood has burned out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pan where the ashes are collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can also be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only in decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating furnaces may have different heat output.

The most popular type of oven is the one-brick construction. This allows you to heat the walls up to 60 0 C. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch ovens are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and full-bodied, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For lining such a furnace, tiled tiles are usually used, decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but this option will not work for a beginner, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the hewing of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves also look beautiful and unusual, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in the stove business V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered sheet metal. Such a stove is able to heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and cook a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen had to dry their clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, a dryer for firewood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

The device of the furnace for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for summer cottages are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of oven design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time be able to maintain the temperature for a long time. Folding such an oven is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a novice can handle a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the rules of masonry.

In the first place in terms of popularity of heating and cooking stoves is a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface, a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a dual function: serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of different masonry schemes for a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: Buslaev's stove, Kuznetsov's, etc. But the principle of work in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only hob with an oven, but also a spacious couch.

This oven is already not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, so that the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Due to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from the bottom up. For kindling, any solid fuel, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for laying the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by baby V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its masonry, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This oven option will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or cottages in one room.

In this article, we suggest that you study the rules and highlights of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choose a brick and prepare tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of a firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). Do not save on materials, further depend on this operational properties, safety and efficiency of the oven.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the complete attenuation of firewood, such a stove is able to give off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which creates aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire oven from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, outer part the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing a brick for the oven, pay attention to the color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can break into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The brand of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1 cm 3.

Do not take silicate and hollow brick. It's not even about the ability to withstand high temperatures - they can handle it. silicate brick does not conduct heat well and in a room with such a stove it will not be very comfortable.

For masonry mortar, you will need sand, red oven clay and water. It directly depends on its quality and consistency. appearance and oven durability. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. In a frozen form, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not quickly leave.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, various impurities are present in its composition, which add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, more dry mix must be added. If it turned out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Chamotte brick - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blew).
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney flue.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools you will need to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which was on outdoors at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can master in "1 call". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. We prepare a brick for laying the furnace

Before proceeding with the laying of the furnace, it is necessary to lay out the entire brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, squeezing in the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see what parts of the bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it is easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick? Before “beating off” the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick - draw 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the furnace

This is very milestone in laying the furnace, which is advisable to produce even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of houses already in the process of operating the cottage. In this case, determine the place from where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, the cold air blowing from the doors can interfere natural circulation heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space, without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the furnace depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall must be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through the beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• The fireplace is best located near inner wall at home. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install the stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no opposite corner Entrance door from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Building the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, you must perform separate foundation. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you have decided to lay the furnace after completion general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to carry out a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape and design of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you can see at the draft stage difficult moments to which special attention should be paid.

Step 5. Laying the oven

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb moisture. So they will not pull water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and simple maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of firewood.

We block the door of the blower with a brick.

Installing the furnace door

We install the furnace door, after wrapping it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a pipe smoke channel, creating overlaps for the two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make of fireclay bricks.

• From row 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, the two bricks that overlap the grate should be cut at a 45 degree angle.

• 10 row - close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. We are preparing a place for the installation of the hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately put the slab on a dry slab and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you to lay the brick on the mortar later and not make a mistake with the correct recesses under the slab.

We lay the asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Chimney outlet through the roof

This is a responsible step, which should ensure the complete safety of the operation of the furnace.

Be guided by the norms of SNIP when removing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to perform insulation thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection from blowing cold air and provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wired, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with steel pipes sandwich type. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of space heating and the presence of traction directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney - a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

From above we put on a metal cap, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7 Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer residence.

Clinker tiles, tile tiles, decorative plaster, fake diamond etc.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Please note that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Kindling the furnace

After the complete lining of the furnace, it is necessary to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test kindling of the stove. No need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Premature kindling of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the wood, lay small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when kindling.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately give a strong heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of use country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to put together a beautiful and solid country stove.

Video: Laying a dry brick oven

Below we present detailed wizard class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence