As a rule, the wall of the garage is insulated. Garage insulation - inexpensive ways of internal thermal insulation. Insulation of walls with foam plastic for drywall, wall paneling

AT winter time garages built without the use of additional insulation do not warm up sufficiently. In order to comfortably stay indoors and use it not only for parking a car, you should perform a comprehensive insulation of the garage. Depending on individual needs and technical parameters you can choose the appropriate insulation option.

To maintain a high temperature inside the building, it is recommended to sheathe the garage on both sides. If desired or not possible, it is allowed to insulate the garage only inside or outside. The type of insulation that is suitable depends on the type of building, the materials used and the required temperature. You can sheathe brick, concrete with various types roofs, including frame, pitched and others.

Inside

Internal insulation of the garage can be performed at any location of the building. To insulate the walls, it is necessary to first clean the wall and build an additional partition from drywall or asbestos fiber, in the frame of which a heat-insulating layer will be embedded.

Outside

External sheathing of the garage is carried out only on separately built structures. In arrays where the outer wall of the structure is the inner one for the adjacent garage, this method insulation is not possible. The insulation process consists in sheathing the outer walls with a heat-insulating layer and protecting the porous surface.

What is insulated in the garage

Integrated insulation of the building involves the sheathing with thermal insulation of walls, floors, ceilings and gates. Depending on the type of garage and your own requirements, partial cladding is allowed.

Walls

Most of the heat in a building is lost due to thin walls. There are several ways to sheathe walls from the inside. The most accessible requires the following steps:

1. The walls are cleaned of old layers of plaster and paint. uneven surface processed with cement-sand composition.
2. After drying, the walls are covered with soil or an antiseptic to prevent the development of dampness and mold.
3. Sheets of foam or other material are glued to the prepared surface.
4. A plaster mesh is applied over the heat-insulating layer.
5. The wall is covered with plaster and putty.

A more expensive method involves the construction of additional partitions along each wall. The space between the walls and partitions is laid with an insulating layer, which minimizes heat loss.

Floor

Thermal insulation of the floor in the garage building is carried out using expanded clay or foam. The function of the coating is performed by a cement-sand screed. For laying a layer of thermal insulation, the following steps are carried out:

1. A hole with a depth of about 30 cm is dug around the perimeter of the room. The base is leveled and several beacons are placed, after which the mounting horizon is determined using the building level.
2. The bottom is covered with roofing felt or polyethylene. On each side, the material is folded 30 cm.
3. Expanded clay is poured in or foam is laid to full depth. The surface is leveled on the beacons, after which they are removed.
4. A reinforcement frame and a beacon profile are placed on top of the heat-insulating material.
5. A cement-sand screed is poured from a far corner. After pouring, the coating is leveled.

Gates

Even when tightly closed, a significant part of the heat escapes through the gate. If you completely sheathe the perimeter, but leave the gate, then the temperature in the room will remain almost unchanged.

To insulate the sashes, their inner part is covered with polyethylene, after which a frame of wooden beams treated with an antiseptic solution is screwed to the canvas.

A heat-insulating material of appropriate thickness is placed inside the frame and glued to the inside of the gate with glue. Docking seams are covered with mounting foam. From above, the heat-insulating layer is sheathed with clapboard or metal sheet.

Ceiling

According to the principle of installation, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the processing of the walls of the room. The material is fixed inside the frame, built of metal or wooden beams. For additional protection, the frame is covered with drywall sheets, clapboard or other finishing material.

Types of heaters

A wide variety of insulation materials are presented on the construction market, which differ in thickness, structure, flexibility, installation method and other characteristics. Before performing external or internal thermal insulation work, it is recommended to compare suitable insulation options and choose the best one.

When selecting material, it is necessary to provide for the required amount in order to completely sheathe all surfaces. An integrated approach will help you choose the material with the best insulating properties.

Mineral wool

For inner lining buildings, mineral wool is ideal, which is a roll-type material with a foil coating that reflects heat. Mineral wool is easy to install and does not create a load on the ceilings of walls and roofs. Mineral wool fibers provide free air circulation through the layers of insulation, which prevents the development of mold.

Other advantages of mineral wool include: low thermal conductivity, soundproofing properties, light weight, easy installation.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is considered a universal insulation that is attached to any surface inside the garage. The material is not exposed to liquids, is resistant to changing temperatures, and does not rot or mold over time. When interacting with mounting foam or glue, the foam is not destroyed due to the absence of a chemical reaction. The disadvantages of the material are easy flammability and the threat of damage by rodents. To protect the foam, an additional protective finish is required.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, expanded polystyrene has a number of similarities with polystyrene foam. Distinctive characteristics are reduced water absorption coefficient and increased density. Due to the large thickness, expanded polystyrene provides more powerful protection against frost, but is more expensive than other materials.

Penoizol

Penoizol is an analogue of polystyrene and is used for application to walls in liquid state. The material absorbs liquid well, but does not accumulate it in itself, evaporating into the air. Penoizol is considered a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation with a combustion class G-1. One of the competitive advantages of penoizol is the possibility of production directly at the work site with subsequent application to any surface.

glass wool

Compared to mineral wool, glass wool is cheaper, but it can only be used with protective gloves. Cotton wool fibers are tough and prickly, so neglecting safety precautions can lead to injury. If liquid drips onto the surface of the glass wool during installation, it will have to be thrown away, since it is not possible to dry it. After getting wet, the fibers lose their original characteristics and exude an unpleasant odor.

polyurethane foam

Modern material has rapidly become widespread due to increased resistance to external factors. Polyurethane foam does not lose its qualities when interacting with liquid and after drying forms a dense hydrophobic coating. Applying the material requires specialized equipment.

Difficulties of installation are justified by a tight connection with any surface and high-quality protection against heat loss. After installation, the polyurethane foam expands, all empty gaps and cracks are filled.

Warm plaster

Reformulated stucco consists of specialized fillers, including sawdust, styrofoam particles, and expanded vermiculite. The combination of fillers gives the plaster thermal insulation properties. To obtain the desired result when finishing the premises, it is necessary to apply a dense and heavy layer of plaster. To simplify, it is recommended to combine warm plaster with other types of insulation materials.

Thermal insulation paint

To protect from the cold and give the garage a decorative appearance use liquid materials made from acrylic polymers. Pigments of natural origin and synthetic rubber are added to the paint.

One coat of paint thermal insulation properties replaces a layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick. The paint adheres well to wood, metal and plastic surfaces. After application, the paint forms a vapor-permeable coating and provides air permeability, preventing waterlogging of the internal component of the structure.

Warming brick garage is a kind of guarantee of a long life and safety of the car. Due to sudden temperature fluctuations, condensation may occur on the parts and body of the machine. And this, in turn, often causes a violation of the anti-corrosion protection of the car. What is needed to temperature regime in the garage was optimal?

Some motorists do not think about how to insulate the garage from the inside and believe that it is possible to achieve comfortable temperature conditions in the garage by just installing one or more powerful heaters.

But, alas, it is not. They will warm, but not only the garage, but also the street, since heat from a garage that is not properly insulated will constantly evaporate into the external environment.

Based on all this, the conclusion suggests itself: it is impossible to achieve comfortable conditions for a car without a thorough warming of the garage. That is why it is necessary to find the right answer to the question: how to properly insulate the garage? Let's figure it out together.

So that warm air does not leave the interior, and cold air, on the contrary, does not penetrate inside, it is necessary to insulate the garage with your own hands, namely, its walls and ceiling. As for the floor surface, this is a separate issue. But we will also consider it in the framework of this publication. Next, we will consider this process in stages.

We insulate the gate

• The inner surface of the gate should be treated with some kind of antiseptic (for example, heated drying oil);
• We carry out the crate of the gate with bars. The cross section of the bars must be selected in such a way that this indicator coincides with the thickness of the insulation material that is planned to be used (in our case, this is mineral wool). The distance between the bars of the crate should correspond to the width of the insulation layer. As for the fastening of the bars themselves, there are many options. However, we recommend fixing them with self-tapping screws on the corners welded to the gate in advance with holes drilled in them. If the garage is brick, then it is not necessary to use metal corners. In this case, the fastening of the crate is carried out with the same self-tapping screws, but using dowels;
• We put layers of mineral wool into the resulting block cells. Insulation for the garage should enter the crate tightly, without gaps, but not stoop;
• Any thin waterproofing agent (for example, roofing felt) should be placed on top of the mineral wool. This must be done, since condensate in the garage is a common thing, and our task is to prevent this condensate from getting on the insulation. And since the insulation was not fixed with anything, the slats should be placed horizontally on the waterproofing. The slats are fastened with self-tapping screws to the beams of the crate.
• From above, everything is sheathed with a thin clapboard, OSB or plywood, which are fastened with the same self-tapping screws directly to the lathing beams.

We insulate the ceiling

If you are thinking about how cheap it is to insulate a garage from the inside, in addition to all other surfaces, you need to take care of the ceiling. Since all the warm air accumulates precisely at the top, in order to avoid the loss of this precious heat, it is necessary to soundly insulate the inner surface of the garage roof, that is, to insulate the garage from the ceiling. Carrying out the insulation of the garage ceiling can be implemented in two ways:

1. We are building a false ceiling.

• at some distance from the main ceiling along its perimeter, mounted on the walls wooden bars or metal profile guides. Ceiling profiles or strong bars are mounted across between them;
• we carry out the sheathing of the resulting frame. For these purposes, you can use lining, drywall, boards, chipboard, plastic panels, corrugated board and other sheathing materials;
• in parallel with the sheathing, insulation material is laid: mineral wool, polystyrene foam or other heaters.

1. We insulate the ceiling with polyurethane foam

Here everything is solved literally in two stages:

• we clean the ceiling from rust, dirt, dust and various irregularities (the best option would be to clean the surface of the ceiling grinder) and treat it with degreasing agents;
• after the ceiling has dried out from the degreaser, we blow out its entire surface with polyurethane foam. This insulation is good because it does not require the use of any fasteners. He evenly lays down on any surface and sticks to it very reliably.

Note: although polyurethane foam is the most expensive insulation, we decided to give an example of insulating a garage ceiling with it, because it thermal insulation characteristics many times higher than other heaters. And its service life (up to 50 years) will save many times over in the future.

If there is an attic above the garage, you can create additional ceiling insulation with a mixture of clay and sawdust.

We insulate the walls or how to insulate the walls of the garage

Making the insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands, you can not do without wall insulation. We propose to consider the progress of these works using an example when foam plastic is used as a heater for garage walls. This material perfectly copes with the task of thermal insulation. If necessary, the foam is completely replaced with mineral wool. The progress of the work with such a replacement does not change in any way. So, how to insulate a brick garage, or rather, its walls:

• Before making thermal insulation, it is necessary to make a crate of bars with a section of 2x2 cm or 3x3 cm. The step between them should be 800-1000 millimeters. This design should cover the entire perimeter of the wall;
• Under the crate, the walls of the garage are waterproofed. Materials such as plastic film, roofing felt or corrugated board are suitable as a waterproofing material;
• The wall insulation cut strictly according to the size of the cells of the crate (in our case, foam plastic) is inserted into these same cells and pressed against the wall with glue previously applied to its surface. Cutting foam is performed with an ordinary knife;
• Next, you should protect the foam from the effects of the external environment. What is the best way to do this? The best option for this is to use some sheet material. For example, GKL, plastic, GVL, plywood, etc.;
• A reinforced tape should be glued to the joints of the sheet material, after which, if desired, plaster or other facing material can be applied on top of all this.

Walls can also be insulated with polyurethane foam.

This is done in the same way as it was done with the ceiling. However, the area of ​​the walls is quite large - it is several times larger than the area of ​​the ceiling. Therefore, given the high cost of polyurethane foam, we consider this action too economically inexpedient and do not recommend using this material for insulating garage walls.

We warm the floor in the garage

Most often, the garage floor is concrete screed without any surface plating. This is understandable: the load on the surface is constantly increased, plus aggressive gasoline, oil, diesel fuel and other specific liquids. We will not violate such a concrete tradition either. Let's just say that the concrete floor is also quite capable of being insulated. Let's see how you can insulate the floor in the garage:

• A layer of soil 45 centimeters thick is removed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage room - in other words: a foundation pit of the appropriate depth is dug. The bottom of the resulting recess is carefully compacted;
• The compacted bottom of the pit is covered with any waterproofing material(for example, roofing material). Such waterproofing allows you to inexpensively and efficiently protect the garage floor from moisture. When laying it, a 1-centimeter overlap is made on the walls;
• Control beacons are set to determine the thickness of the backfill layers. Such beacons can be made from cut pieces of reinforcement, for example. Or you can use your own version of control beacons for these purposes. Beacons are fixed cement mortar or you can use gypsum for these purposes;
• The expanded clay layer is poured first, the thickness of which should be 250-300 millimeters;
• A reinforcing mesh with a cell of 100x100 millimeters is laid on top of the expanded clay layer. To make such a grid of iron wire with your own hands or to purchase a ready-made one is already purely your choice;
• Next, a standard sand-cement mortar is poured. When pouring the screed, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level so that it is strictly horizontal, without inclination, distortions, depressions or bulges. The screed should be leveled and left to dry completely. The latter may take 20-30 days.

If there is already a concrete floor and you really don’t want to break it, and even there is an opportunity to donate 15-20 centimeters of the height of the garage room, the floor in it can be insulated less time-consuming, but no less effective method. It consists of the following:

• Major cleaning of the floor with a vacuum cleaner;
• The floor is covered with any waterproofing agent, for example, plastic wrap or roofing material;
• Styrofoam plates with a thickness of at least 100 millimeters and a minimum allowable density of C-25 are laid as tightly as possible on the waterproofing device;
• Another waterproofing layer is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene;
• The reinforcing mesh is mounted;
• On top of everything, a screed is poured from the same cement-sand mortar, as in the first method we considered.

So, having correctly arranged and combined everything, we will get an excellently insulated garage. At the same time, we did not need to invest particularly large sums of money in insulation work. The conclusion suggests itself as follows: with correctly selected materials and correctly performed work, insulating the walls of the garage from the inside turns out to be not so difficult and expensive undertaking, and it is not so difficult to insulate the garage with your own hands. And in the vast majority of cases, after carrying out such a complex of works, insulation of the garage from the outside is no longer required.

Attempts to heat the garage without complex insulation lead to one disappointing result - the money spent on heating literally flies out into the chimney, and it does not get warmer in the box. In an unheated building, things are no better - the temperature inside does not differ from the conditions "overboard". But every start of the engine at -20 ° C leads to the same wear as a run of 600 km. To create comfortable conditions in the garage even in winter, you will have to take care of reliable thermal insulation. This is the only way to cut off the cold outside and keep the heat inside.

Insulation options for garages built from different materials

To choose one or another garage insulation technology, you will have to weigh the many pros and cons, “try on” various insulating materials to the features of the building and your own wallet. It will also be required thermotechnical calculation, taking into account the climate in the region, the thickness and material of the enclosing structures. For example, walls made of aerated concrete blocks with a lot of air pores they themselves have good resistance to heat loss. At the same time, metal frame buildings are seriously losing in this regard.

There are three options for insulating a garage:

• external;
• internal;
• combined - the most effective and expensive.

Insulation along the facade is vital for buildings that are prone to accumulate moisture: wooden frames and garages made of porous concrete blocks. In a good way, metal boxes also need to be isolated from the outside, since their dew point always turns out to be on the inner surface. But it is difficult to do such work on your own, so we will consider this option as an exception to the rule.

It would be right to insulate the garage from the outside - this is the only way to take the dew point outside the building envelope and protect them from soaking when condensation forms

It is also desirable to protect brick and concrete buildings from the outside, but thermal insulation from the inside is cheaper - the right of choice remains with the owner. Here it is necessary to additionally take into account the safety of the materials used for the human body. Of course, there are no absolutely harmless among them - even natural wood is treated with chemical impregnations - but you need to strive for this. The safest products are well-known brands that monitor the maximum allowable concentrations of phenols, formaldehydes and styrenes in their materials.

If you use an unheated garage in the winter, you still need internal insulation. Otherwise, you get a simple canopy with a gate that protects the car from the rain, but not from the cold. But you can refuse external insulation.

Separately, it is worth considering the insulation of the roof of the garage, since a lot of heat is lost through it.. It all depends on the design and availability of the attic. Possible options for roofs of different configurations:

• Flat or with a slight slope allows the laying of insulation from above. It is better to use rigid foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), and waterproofing from above with roll materials.
• The pitched roof is insulated with the same foam or mineral wool laid between the rafters. The latter option is preferable, since it does not require particularly precise sizing and additional fasteners.
• In a garage with a cold attic, you can line the ceiling with glass wool rolls - you get reliable and budgetary thermal insulation. The main thing that roofing material well protected it from getting wet, and ventilation ensured the removal of accumulated moisture.

We also allow the option of insulating the ceiling in the garage. The same materials are used here as for wall insulation: mineral wool, rigid polymer plates. This solution allows you to create a continuous "warm" contour without gaps and cold bridges. But it is necessary that from the side of the room it is closed by a vapor barrier that cuts off moist air. Additional waterproofing from above is required.

Having decided on the insulation technology and the features of the enclosing structures of the garage, it is already much easier to choose the material. For example, for a metal box, foam spraying or the formation of a “sandwich” using foam is ideal. Walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm are enough to finish the outside with warm perlite plaster. But most buildings allow the use of simple and cheaper technologies. We offer a kind of TOP of popular types of thermal insulation with a calculation of their number and associated costs for budgeting.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam

These two related heaters differ from each other in both characteristics and price. But the technology of working with rigid polymers remains unchanged, so we will consider them as one material. Styrofoam is sold in the form flat sheets different thicknesses, so it's enough to calculate the surface area and add 10% to the waste to calculate the right amount of it.

The most reliable is the insulation of structures with foam plastic in two layers. Laying thin slabs with overlapping seams provides wind protection.

Calculation example:

• It is necessary to insulate 50 m 2 of walls with foam plastic plates 10 cm thick.
• For a two-layer installation, 100 m 2 of hard polymer is needed, but already 5 cm.
• Taking into account the margin for trimming and waste, we accept 100 + 10% \u003d 110 m 2.
• The largest PSB-S foam sheets are standard size 1000x1000 mm - they will need 110 pcs.
• Extruded polystyrene foam has a smaller area of ​​​​1200x600 mm (0.72 m 2), that is, it already needs 153 pieces - these are incomplete 20 packs of 8 sheets.

For fastening, you will need special glue and mounting foam to seal the seams. Dry adhesives are sold in 25 kg bags and have an average consumption of about 4 kg / m 2, that is, in our case, 400 kg or 16 packages of the mixture will be needed. Polyurethane-based adhesive foam is bought at the rate of one cylinder per 10 squares - a total of 10 units plus a mounting gun.

For reliable adhesion, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe adhesive mass after pressing the sheet should occupy 30-40% of the foam surface. In the case of adhesive foam, strips with a width of at least 6–7 mm are applied for this.

As for the expense polyurethane foam for sealing seams, it all depends on the density of the insulation panels, as well as the quality of the edges. In addition, this composition is ideal for correcting all the flaws in the insulating layer, so more may be required. The minimum consumption for our example is 2 cylinders (about 60 liters of foam). But often the actual volume of the composition at the exit does not correspond to what is stated on the package, plus part of it is outside and must be removed, so this figure should at least be doubled.

This category includes both basalt slabs and cheaper fiberglass. The latter has a very limited scope, since the density of the material is low, and under load it quickly loses volume. The maximum that glass wool is capable of is the insulation of horizontal and flat-slope surfaces from the inside.

Basalt wool is available in a wider range, so it can be used on almost all surfaces, if you choose the right material:

• Internal insulation attic floor(e.g. in a garage with attic floor) allows the use of light inexpensive rolls with a density of 30 kg / m 3.
• The walls are sheathed from the inside with mats weighing 45–60 kg / m 3.
• For hinged facade systems, slabs with a density of about 70 kg / m 3 are suitable.
• External insulation for plastering is carried out with two-layer sheets with a more rigid weaving of the upper fibers with a density of 90 kg / m 3.
• flat roofs for welded insulation or thin screed require the use of expensive stoves from 110 kg / m 3 and above.

Mineral wool insulation - not the best cheap option for the garage. But if the building is adjacent to a residential building, in order to fire safety it's better to use it

As in the case of foam, laying wool is recommended in two layers, so that the area of ​​​​insulation when calculating materials is multiplied by 2. In addition, you will need a waterproofing film 200 microns thick and a vapor barrier. Their dimensions will be larger, since all seams must be made with an overlap of 10–15 cm.

Mineral wool insulation usually does not require the use of any fasteners - it is simply inserted into wooden frame from a bar. Here it will take a lot. The length of the lumber is determined by the dimensions of the protected surface, that is, the height of the walls or the length of the slopes of the sloping roof. The number of bars depends on the installation step - it should be 1–2 cm less than the width of the mineral insulation. The “wet” method of insulating the outer walls of the garage does not provide for lathing - basalt slabs are glued special composition applied to their surface. The average consumption of the finished mixture is 9–10 kg / m 2.

When gluing the facades with mineral wool, additional fixation of the plates with dowel-fungi is performed - 5 pieces for each sheet

Mineral thermal insulation in the case of a garage is not suitable only for the floor, although in residential buildings this option is perfectly acceptable. But in boxing, it is impossible to provide it with sufficient protection against moisture, from which the insulation quickly loses its properties and becomes unusable.

"Highly specialized" heaters

The choice of insulating materials on our market is not limited to polystyrene foam and mineral wool. However, the use of other heaters is not so widespread, as they have their drawbacks. However, they are also worth paying attention to, since in some cases the use of alternative species thermal insulation may be justified.

• Expanded clay is an inexpensive bulk material that is suitable for filling into inter-wall gaps with two-layer masonry, as well as for installing a “warm” floor screed. It has high water absorption and average thermal conductivity of about 0.1–0.18 W/m∙°C.
• Foam glass blocks are a good and resistant to many external influences heat insulator, but very expensive. In addition, glass foam blocks are not friendly with cement-based alkaline solutions (adhesives, plasters).
• Fibrolite and arbolite are to a greater extent Construction Materials, which certainly have good heat-insulating characteristics (0.08–0.11 W / m ∙ ° С). It is better to provide for the use of cement-bonded particle blocks and slabs at the stage of construction, and then choose heaters for them.

Required Tools

At each stage of work on the insulation of the garage, you need your own set of tools. The list also depends on the selected material, but the main changes will affect cutting fixtures. For example, mineral wool is well cut with a construction knife, but with foam plastic it is easier to manage with a home-made "hacksaw" made of steel wire on wooden handles. You can, of course, use a jigsaw, but in this case the sheets will crumble a lot, so you have to work slowly. The rest of the tool kit is standard.

For surface preparation:

• a hard synthetic brush (in some cases, a manual brush or cord brush for angle grinders);
• grinder - to remove protruding reinforcement and large protrusions of the main surface;
• narrow spatulas for sealing cracks.

For fixing the insulation:

• drill / screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• notched trowel or mounting gun for adhesives.

In the case when the insulation layer is laid in the crate, do not forget to pick up a tool for making the frame: a jigsaw for a wooden beam, a hacksaw, an angle grinder or scissors for a metal profile.

Instructions for self-insulating the floor in an unheated garage

Most cheap way insulate the floor in the garage - make an expanded clay pillow and pour it with concrete. True, in this case, the finished base will have to be completely disassembled, and the whole process will be time-consuming.

Work order:

1. Dig a pit in the ground to a depth of half a meter and line it with roofing material with a stop at the walls. Seal the waterproofing seams with bituminous mastic or simply solder.
2. To a height of 30 cm, fill the pit with expanded clay and cover it with reinforcing mesh.
3. Prepare a concrete solution and pour the screed of the required thickness. Try to make a base with a slope towards the gate to divert water.

Do not forget that when installing a concrete floor around the perimeter, it is necessary to leave expansion joints. Use a special PET foam damping tape for this.

Insulation for cement pouring can also be done using foam. It is not necessary to fasten it - it is enough to spread the sheets tightly on a leveled surface, covered with a film, and foam the seams. From above, perform waterproofing again, lay reinforcement and pour concrete mortar.

Under the cement screed, sheets with a density of at least 25 kg / m 3 are needed

Thermal insulation of the floor in the garage with a cellar

When it comes to a garage with a cellar arranged under it, floor insulation has to be done especially carefully. Much here depends on the design of the floor. Ideally, if it is wooden - the fight against excess moisture in the basement does not give a 100% result, and the array, unlike concrete, not only accumulates moisture, but also willingly gives it away.

The scheme of the insulated floor will look like this:

1. Waterproof insulation laid between the lags - the lightest foam will do, since there will be no load on it.
2. Diffusion membrane with one-way permeability to wooden beam could breathe through it. At the same time, 10-15 cm lag at the ends remain free.
3. 5 cm high batten - provides a ventilated gap above the insulation layer.
4. Draft floor from edged boards.

For a garage with a basement - best option

Such a solution will cut off the cold coming from the basement, and let excess moist air into the garage. Here they will be included in the work ventilation ducts, preventing moisture from accumulating and destroying wooden structures and the car itself. However, all lumber should also be protected from decay - for this they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and allowed to dry.

To provide better protection bases of the garage from the cold, you can make a “warm” blind area around the entire perimeter from the outside. It will shift the line of soil freezing, and under the building, even in winter, a positive temperature will remain.

Wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside: instructions and photo gallery

Traditionally, before starting work, we prepare surfaces for insulation: we remove exfoliating pieces, repair chips and potholes, and clean the walls from dirt. brickwork or concrete with their absorbent capacity must be additionally treated with a penetrating primer. After that, the insulation is performed in the following order:

1. Fix a metal corner at the bottom of the walls - it will serve as a support for the rows of foam.
2. Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the instructions on the packaging.
3. Apply the composition to each sheet in one of the ways shown in the photo.

   This method is only suitable for polymer adhesives in cylinders. The glue is applied with a notched trowel in a layer of 3–4 mm.
   "Blots" of glue should be evenly distributed on the sheet
   

15.06.2018

The garage protects the car from direct exposure to rain and snow. But this is not the only thing that affects the state of its mechanisms. Temperature fluctuations lead to condensation. And he, in turn, becomes the cause of rust, fungi and mold, accumulates in body cavities, damages the engine. Therefore, the task of the car owner is to reduce his education to a minimum.

Warm or insulate?

When the temperature in the garage is below zero, the condensate freezes. And when the engine warms up, it starts to melt. Freeze-thaw cycles do not benefit either the metal or the internal mechanisms.

But space heating is not optimal solution. Leaving a warm garage in the cold, we create a situation of a sharp temperature drop. And when returning back to the heated space, we get the formation of condensate even on those parts where moisture does not get when the car is moving.

Experts claim that Better conditions for winter storage, cars are created when the thermometer shows + 5 ° С. The danger of corrosion under such conditions is minimal, and the temperature difference between the street and the room does not have such a detrimental effect on the car.

Accordingly, choosing between connecting to the heating system and insulating the garage with your own hands, it is wiser to stop at the second option. Moreover, it will help save on monthly energy bills.

Basic requirements for garage insulation

When insulating a place to store a car, it is worth remembering a number of key points.

• You can not close up the ventilation holes - any heat-insulated building also needs ventilation, as well as a heated one.
• Thermal protection should affect not only walls, but also Garage Doors, floors, roof.
• If there is a desire to do everything according to the rules, it would be useful to study the sixth section of SNiP 2.07.01–89. It regulates the requirements for the premises where vehicles are stored. Of course, when it comes to a personal garage, it is not necessary to comply with them. However, standards can help address a number of issues.
• For door insulation, in most cases, internal thermal protection is mounted.

How to insulate: inside or outside

The most desirable type of insulation is external. It protects the walls from freezing and allows them to accumulate heat.

Nevertheless, sometimes they resort to warming the garage from the inside. For example, when there is no indent between the garage boxes or their walls are adjacent.

Overview of the materials market: choosing the best

The first thing to consider when choosing a heat insulator is the type of insulation you have chosen. For example, moisture-permeable materials, when wet, change their properties. Therefore they are not good option for external thermal protection. And for internal thermal insulation, heaters that emit harmful substances in summer heat or domestic heating.

The modern market offers several types of garage insulation materials. Consider the main properties and characteristics of the most popular of them.

Mineral wool

Produced in the form of plates and rolls. It retains heat well and has soundproofing properties. But at the same time it easily absorbs moisture - high humidity is the main enemy of wadded heaters. And when wet, it completely loses its ability to isolate heat. Therefore, its use requires high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. It is almost impossible to dry this insulation, it becomes brittle and easily damaged. And when wet during installation, glass wool clumps and becomes unsuitable for further use (cavities appear inside it).

Considering that the outer insulation cake can be damaged or depressurized, it is risky to use this material. In general, for vertical mounting of mineral wool - not the best choice. It has considerable weight and consists of fibers. Under their own weight, over the years, they can sag, and voids will form between them - the so-called cold bridges.

This heat insulator has two advantages: low price and the same low thermal conductivity. But that's all. Then only the disadvantages begin. Once in the lungs, glass particles are no longer excreted from the body. On the skin, they leave itching and irritation. During their installation, a protective suit, a respirator and a mask are required, and after completion of work, a thorough cleaning of the premises. Then a day or two will have to wait until the glass dust settles, not visible to the eye.

If during operation at least partial damage to the protective layer of films or foil material has occurred, you will again need to rent overalls and, after the repair is completed, resort to cleaning.

And finally, the material shrinks and does not differ in durability. Therefore, it does not matter which type of insulation you prefer: internal or external, it is better not to dwell on this option.

Styrofoam

This material is very popular due to its low cost and ease of installation. It retains heat well and lasts for decades. It can be mounted independently, without having at hand any special tools or special building skills. But ideal solution still don't name it. Although not as significant as mineral wool, it absorbs moisture. Very easily damaged and crumbled. Its granules have a low adhesive strength, so over the years they can fly out even with accidental pressure on the material.

But the main thing is not even that. There is a huge amount of uncertified foam on the market due to the high demand for it. Finding a high-quality and safe product for health is not an easy task. And the one that was produced in violation of technology, with an increase in temperature and exposure to sunlight, begins to release toxic substances. Given that the garage is a closed space, this is fraught with serious health problems for the car owner.

PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam)

Perhaps, for warming the garage from the inside with your own hands is the best option. It is affordable, it is even easier to install than polystyrene - the joints do not need to be sealed with foam, because they have L-shaped grooves. It is easy to cut and can be glued directly to the wall.

But the most important, of course, is its ability to thermal insulation - one of the best among modern materials. And it remains the same in all situations. PENOPLEX does not get wet (moisture absorption coefficient is less than 0.4% in 28 days), is not afraid of defrosting-freezing cycles and lasts more than 50 years.

It is resistant to compression, does not shrink, absorbs noise, does not rot, insects do not start in it, and to top it all off, it is a homogeneous mass of polymer without separate granules. This provides him with high strength even after many years after the work carried out.

Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that this material is ideal for both external and internal insulation.

Reflective thermal insulation

It is a foil material, which in itself has rather modest heat-insulating characteristics and a small thickness. It reflects infrared radiation well, which means that it makes sense to use it only for heated rooms. If there is no heat source, there will be little benefit from it. Therefore, as a rule, it is used only as an additional means of thermal protection when using other materials. For example, PENOPLEX.

How to insulate a garage from the outside - step by step instructions

For outdoor work, it is most convenient to use rigid plates. The cheapest option is foam. PENOPLEX is more expensive, but much more effective in terms of moisture resistance, thermal protection, service life and strength. Therefore, we will consider the installation procedure for this particular material. However, it almost does not differ from foam insulation technology.

We will need:

• glue (best of all branded PENOPLEX, since its composition is specially adapted for this insulation and does not destroy it);
• spatula for applying glue or a special gun;
• painting knife or electric jigsaw for cutting sheets;
• fastening disc elements (4 pieces for each plate).

Step 1. Preparing the walls.

We clean them from old paint, dirt, dust, cobwebs and other things. You can walk with a primer so that the glue grabs better. But this is an optional moment.

Step 2 Attach the bottom bar.

It is typical for plates to start installation from the ground. We fix the starting profile on the dowels and proceed to laying the material in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 3 Heater fixture.

This is a simple matter: we apply glue in strips on the plate and apply it to the wall. We connect the L-shaped grooves to each other, due to this, a snug fit of the material without gaps is ensured. When the glue dries, for greater reliability, we fix the sheet with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 4 Final works.

To protect PENOPLEX from ultraviolet radiation and make the facade more aesthetic, we plaster the walls or cover them with siding, DSP, and other materials.

Technology: how to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands

As you can see, even an unprepared person will cope with external insulation. However, interior work are also not particularly difficult.

Floor insulation

It can be made different ways. One of the simplest and most time-consuming options is PENOPLEX insulation under the screed. To do this, the floor will need to be slightly raised. This will reduce the height of the room, but you won’t have to dig a pit - you can mount a heat insulator on an existing floor. The order of work is simple.

1. We clean the surface, make a cement-sand screed (DSP) or level the coating with building mixtures. It is important that the differences do not exceed 5 mm.

2. On next step we lay PENOPLEX FOUNDATION® directly on the floor without the use of glue and dowels. You can put insulating material in one or more layers.

3. In order to distribute the forthcoming point loads, it is necessary to fill with concrete mortar or self-levelling mixture 40 mm thick. At the same time, the insulation is insulated with a film, and its seams are securely fastened with adhesive tape. Between the wall and the screed, 1–2 cm of empty space is left to take into account thermal expansion and further make sound insulation by filling it with foamed polyethylene.

4. A finishing floor is laid at the finish.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling when insulating the garage from the inside

The order of work is approximately the same as with the walls. We glue the PENOPLEX® COMFORT sheets, fix them with dowels, supplement them with a vapor barrier film, a crate, cover them with a finishing material, and the thermal protection is ready.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside with your own hands

It can be carried out according to the same principle as for external walls, only using a vapor barrier film that is laid on top of the heat insulator.

Gate protection

Many are faced with the problem of seasonal “walking” of the pillars (the base of the gate), which is why they do not close. The best solution– when installing the gate, protect its base (pillars) from freezing. If you have already installed ordinary iron gates, then they must also be thermally insulated from the inside. If it is possible to attach the sheets to the dowels to the material from which the gate is made, it is worth doing it. If not, the usual glue method will do. Already glued insulation is covered first with a vapor barrier film, then with outer skin. To enhance thermal protection, foil polyethylene can be used.

In this way, right choice thermal insulation material makes the insulation of the garage a fairly simple process, which everyone can do.

At first glance, the insulation of the garage may seem inappropriate and expensive. But this is just a delusion, today's building materials market makes it possible to quickly and inexpensively insulate any room. Due to the insulation, it will be possible to reduce the humidity that arises from temperature changes. And as you know, humidity stimulates metal to corrode. Therefore, the insulation of the garage walls from the inside will contribute to the safety of the car.

To insulate the walls of the garage, almost any heat-insulating material that meets the following characteristics is suitable:

1. Not exposed to moisture and fungus;
2. Has low thermal conductivity;
3. Fire resistant;
4. Has a small weight;
5. Positively relates to temperature changes;

Which material has good thermal insulation and meets all requirements:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Glass wool or mineral wool;
3. Sprayed polystyrene foam;

This is not to say that one or another material is better suited for insulating a garage. Each of them has its own specifics, advantages and disadvantages.

Warming the walls of the garage with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most frustrating materials for thermal insulation of a room. Advantages and disadvantages:

1. Mineral wool has excellent characteristics;
2. Has good sound insulation;
3. Insignificant weight of the insulation;
4. Easy to mount;
5. The material is resistant to dampness and fungus attacks, as air has the ability to circulate through the insulation layer.

Material disadvantages:

1. When wet, cotton wool loses its thermal insulation properties;
2. Requires good waterproofing;
3. The cost is several times higher than other thermal insulation materials;

Mineral wool is produced in rolls, has a foil heat-generating layer. It will be an excellent solution for wall insulation in the garage.

The disadvantages include a high class of combustibility and fear of water.

Garage insulation with foam

Styrofoam is a cheap and practical material for insulation, easy to use.

Quite cheap, but effective and versatile material. Suitable for warming all parts of the visit. Quickly mounted, insulation of the garage from the inside will take no more than 1-2 days. The advantages include:

1. Durability and affordability;
2. Will not be attacked by mold or rot;
3. Excellent moisture tolerance;
4. Resistant to temperature extremes;

Material disadvantages:

1. Subjected to attacks by rodents;
2. Under the influence of sunlight, the foam begins to lose its structure;
3. Ignites quickly;

It is worth emphasizing that the insulation of the garage with polystyrene foam from the inside requires additional finishing with plaster or concreting

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Garage walls are treated with sprayed polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam entered the market not so long ago, but already from the first sales it won leadership in its field. Regarding the insulating qualities, there are no questions, but the price of the material is too high. The principle of operation is to spray a protective layer that is completely sealed and resistant to physical and chemical influences. Polyurethane foam, as a garage insulation from the inside, is an ideal armor against frost and moisture.

It's important to know! Before insulating a brick garage from the inside, it is necessary to study the design of the roof and floor covering. Based on the information received, the choice of insulation is made.

Warm plaster

A brick garage is often insulated with special heat-insulating plaster.

Enough modern material, superficially resembles ordinary plaster. The composition contains substances with low thermal conductivity, namely:

1. Expanded clay;
2. Styrofoam;
3. Pumice;
4. Sawdust;
5. Vermiculite;

Polystyrene plaster showed itself best of all. The material is applied both outside and inside. The price is certainly high, but it is due to the best performance of thermal insulation.

Warm plaster is still better to use in combination with other types of thermal insulation.

It is quite simple to work with this type of heaters, so the insulation of the garage from the inside is done by hand.

Sawdust-based plaster is also considered quite popular. It also has excellent thermal insulation performance and can be used inside and out. The disadvantages of such plaster include drying time. To make the process go faster, the room must be well ventilated.

Benefits of warm plaster

The main advantage is the speed of installation. If for the installation of other insulating materials, it is initially necessary to prepare the walls for their fixation, then with plaster everything is different. The surface does not need to be leveled, the plaster is perfectly attached to any material. No need to use reinforced meshes and everything else.

Of course, compared with traditional heaters, plaster is significantly inferior in its characteristics. Its use alone may not be enough for good thermal insulation of the room. Therefore, this material is best used in combination with other heaters.

Thermal insulation paint

One of the easiest materials to use. It also appeared on the market not so long ago, but in a short period of time it was able to gain customer confidence. Despite its simplicity, the paint has high efficiency when insulating the room.

The photo shows a layer of heat-insulating paint

In terms of properties, the paint layer is 5 mm, but in terms of efficiency, they replace 1.5 meters of a brick wall. Therefore, choosing thermal insulation paint to insulate the walls of the garage, the owner will not lose. The unique composition of the insulation is based on the features of the structure and the principle of operation. If other heaters simply do not let heat through themselves, then thermal paint also performs the function of a reflector. The material has similar properties due to the vacuum that is inside the paint.

Advantages of thermal insulation paints

They have excellent thermal insulation characteristics, are not attacked by fungus and moisture. Excellent adhesion to unprepared surfaces. When using such heaters, the structure is not overloaded, since the paint layer has a small weight. The paint is resistant to fire, at high temperatures it does not ignite and simply smolders.

The disadvantages include only the cost of the material, but the price is quite due to many advantages.

Insulation of brick walls of the garage

As practice shows, it is better to insulate the garage from the outside. Thus, the insulation will protect the room from the penetration of moisture and frost. But if you want to insulate the garage from the inside, you need to familiarize yourself with the sequence of work.

Insulation along the crate is additionally sheathed with decorative panels

Wall insulation on the crate

When starting to build the insulation of the walls of the garage, you should remember that you need reliable waterproofing. The insulation must have ventilation, and it can be achieved by applying a crate. In the case of a built frame, it is better to use soft materials as a heater. For example, glass wool or mineral wool in rolls.

Insulation of a brick garage from the inside frame technology has the following items:

1. Wall cleaning;
2. Surface treatment with an antiseptic to avoid mold and fungus;
3. Construction of a frame from a bar or profile;

It's important to know! For the construction of a frame structure in the garage, it is better to use a profile. They do not rot and have a low cost.

1. Carrying out the crate of the garage, the distance between the profiles should not exceed one meter for a long time;
2. Laying film waterproofing, reproduced on the frame with an overlap;
3. Laying insulation in zones, it is important not to leave gaps for the penetration of cold;
4. Finishing with plywood or other materials;

Regarding garages in which boilers are installed, it is better to use glass wool as a material for thermal insulation. External insulation is mounted in the same way.

Protection of the ceiling and floor from the cold

An example of ceiling insulation in a garage with mineral wool

The final stage is the insulation of the garage ceiling. The process is almost identical to the construction of thermal insulation of walls, but still there are some nuances. So, how can you insulate the ceiling in the garage:

1. It is safer to use glass wool than polystyrene.
2. When insulating along the crate, it is advisable to leave several holes through which air will circulate.
3. It is necessary to create a good waterproofing, it is best to use roofing material.

As a sheathing, as in the case of wall insulation, it is best to use plywood.

Floor insulation

Expanded clay as a heater is often used in private garages for floor insulation.

Most often, the floors in garages have a soil base, so they must be insulated. An excellent option would be expanded clay and other rigid heaters using reinforced concrete screed. How to properly insulate the floor in the garage:

1. The thickness of the insulation plus the height of the screed is measured, exactly to this depth to be removed upper layer soil.
2. The soil is carefully compacted;
3. A layer of waterproofing is laid, it is best to use roofing material;

Important! It is necessary to make an allowance of roofing material on the walls of at least 25-30 cm. The material is overlapped.

1. Installation of beacons;
2. A layer of expanded clay is poured, it should have a height of more than 30 cm;
3. Installation of beacons for reinforced concrete screed;
4. Installation of a concrete layer;

Not a bad option would be a water heated floor system. It is installed under a concrete screed. True set this system It won't work in every garage.

Insulation of metal gates

As often happens, the owners insulate only the walls and ceiling in the garage, but completely forget about the gate. And they, in turn, are the main source of cold and dampness in the garage. How to insulate the garage so that the car does not freeze in winter.

The easiest way is to finish the gate from the inside with polystyrene foam

1. A crate is created from the profiles, in the zones of which a heater is laid;
2. Fixing foam to the metal base of the gate. You need to use liquid nails.
3. The gaps between the foam must be covered with mounting foam;
4. Spray with polyurethane foam;

Having mounted one of the types of insulation, it is worth installing seals on the gate leaves. Even small gaps can greatly change the temperature in the garage.

Garage insulation is guaranteed to increase the life of the car. With the correct execution of all work, in the garage it will be possible to create the optimal temperature at any time of the year.