Estimate and calculation / 01.11.2019

Combined method of attic insulation. Attic insulation process. Stages of combined wall insulation

Do-it-yourself attic insulation.

Attic insulation can be done either from the inside or outside. Here everyone is free to do as he likes. Both methods have their pros and cons. So, when insulating from the outside, it is more convenient to work, and you can better control the correct arrangement of ventilated gaps. But there is always the possibility that it will rain and the insulation will get wet. Then it will definitely need to be dried, and this takes a lot of time, depending on the density of the insulation and the degree of wetting.

Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in any weather and it's great, but doing the job is no longer so convenient. If you are using any mineral wool, you need to work in a respirator and protect the body. Despite all the assurances of the manufacturers that the body does not itch from their insulation, this is not so. Also, when insulating from the inside, sometimes it is necessary to perform additional steps to arrange ventilated gaps. We'll talk about this below.

Who does not understand what kind of moisture is, look at any metal roof, for example, in the early spring-autumn morning. You will see how much dew is on it. It is formed when the metal that has cooled down overnight below the dew point comes into contact with the air that is already heating up in the morning. And since we have air not only above the roof, but also under it, then there is condensate, respectively, both above and below the roof.

The second type of films #8212; vapor-permeable windproof membranes, although they have high vapor permeability, but it is still not enough to ventilate the insulation to the required extent. Therefore, two ventilation gaps are needed. We will talk more about the various films in a separate article.

Please note, in this scheme, that there is air circulation in the first vent. gap, it is necessary to ensure air access from below through the filing of the eaves (they use spotlights, ventilation grilles, leave gaps in the wooden filing or drill holes, etc.), and cut the waterproofing film from above. More precisely, they don’t cut it, but simply spread it not to the very top of the rafters, leave 10-15 centimeters on each slope.

To prevent various debris, leaves, and snow in winter from blowing under the ridge element of the roof, either special ridge elements are used (more often on soft roof), or special ventilation tapes (on tiles, metal tiles, corrugated board, etc.). These can be the so-called ridge air elements (upper picture), or PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape #8212; bottom picture). All of them are self-adhesive, mounted very simply.

In the second vent. the gap to ensure the necessary air circulation from above is the same (sometimes they also put the so-called #171; roofing valves #187;), and from below #8230; But what to do from below, more on that later. Let's look at the second diagram first.

Scheme No. 2: Scheme with one ventilated gap.

This scheme became possible to use after superdiffusion membranes appeared on the market. Its essence is shown in the figure below:

Due to the very high vapor permeability of superdiffusion membranes, it is not necessary to make a ventilated gap between the insulation and the membrane. Those. this roofing pie differs from the first scheme in that there is no first ventilation gap and a superdiffusion membrane is used as a waterproofing, which, please note, is no longer cut on the ridge.

We have now completely switched to this scheme. Of course, such a membrane is more expensive, but its advantages are undeniable. Firstly, the insulation work itself is simplified, and secondly, with the same cross-sectional height of the rafters, we can lay a layer of insulation between them 5 cm more than in the first scheme.

Five centimeters #8212; this is the minimum height of the first ventilation gap, which is necessary for sufficient ventilation of the insulation in the first scheme. Moreover, in the first scheme, waterproofing films should be attached to the rafters with a sag of about 2 centimeters (see the figure on the right). In the second scheme, there is no requirement for film sagging.

The thickness of the bars of the counter-lattice in both schemes according to SNIP II-26-76 * must be at least 4 cm.

A little about the order of work. When laying the insulation on top, in principle, everything is clear. First, a vapor barrier is fixed on the rafters from below, a heater is laid, a waterproofing is fixed, a counter-lattice is made, a crate, and the roof is directly mounted. When working according to the first scheme (with two ventilation gaps), make the first vent correctly. the gap is not good. You see everything clearly, you see how much insulation you put in, whether it arched up (this happens if you put it too tightly), thereby blocking the first vent. gap.

When laying the insulation from below, when the waterproofing, counter-lattice, sheathing and roofing have already been done, and when you are working according to the first scheme, check the quality of the first vent. clearance is not possible. With a little overzealousness with the insulation, you can simply block it.

To prevent this from happening, before laying the insulation, a mesh is imposed between the rafters, for example, from nylon laces or copper wire. How it looks is shown in the figure. Those. first we chop carnations, then we knit a net between them. When working according to the second scheme (with one ventilation gap), as you understand, this is no longer necessary.

Most of the territory of our country is located in such climatic zones, where the thickness of the insulation laid between the rafters (especially according to the first scheme) is not enough to pass thermotechnical calculation. What should be done in such cases:

1) Use rafters with a section height of 200 mm. We now often make rafters from boards 50x150 mm. But for a warm attic, a section of 50x200 mm is preferable. When calculating, you can simply increase the pitch of the rafters.

2) Purchase a heater with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.04 W / mºС. Now this is not a problem. Just look for heaters that have the designation #171;For pitched roofs#187; on the packaging. In addition, heaters with this designation have high dimensional stability, which prevents them from falling down the slope over time.

It will not be bad if the insulation you choose is hydrophobized. The fibers of such materials are coated with a special water-repellent substance, and in case of emergency leakage (here it is better to spit three times), they get wet much less. Drops of water practically roll down the insulation.

3) Do additional insulation.

To do this, bars of the required thickness (eg 5 cm) are attached perpendicular to the rafters from the inside. An additional layer of insulation is laid between them. Moreover, this layer covers those cold bridges, which are formed between the rafters and the insulation that is not tightly adjacent to them.

As I said at the beginning, we often use extruded polystyrene foam as an additional insulation. It also acts as an additional vapor barrier.

Even such a combined insulation perfectly protects against rain noise when the roof is covered with metal tiles or corrugated board. The strength of the sound is extinguished not only in each layer of insulation (min. wool is better than in EPPS), but also when moving from one medium to another.

As you may have read in previous articles, polyethylene foam #8212 can be used as an additional insulation; plain or foil. When using foil, a gap of 4-5 cm is required between it and the interior decoration of the attic, so as not to lose its reflective ability.

There is a scheme when additional insulation is done on top of the rafters. But it is used much less often. Insulation is laid only from above, and the duration of the work increases and, consequently, the likelihood of falling into the rain. We have never done this before, so I will not dwell on it now. If you are interested, information on the Internet is not difficult to find.

At the end of this article, I also wanted to dwell on how to properly make an eaves overhang in order to ensure good ventilation between the waterproofing and the roof while simultaneously draining the condensate that forms on the inside metal roofs. This topic is quite painful right now. The Internet is filled with schemes for the implementation of cornice overhangs, which often contradict each other and are, to put it mildly, not correct. The saddest thing is that all these schemes have migrated from the instructions of various manufacturers of metal tiles or roofing films, i.e. as if from materials to be trusted.

Here are some examples of these drawings:

In the first picture, the waterproofing hangs from under the counter-lattice and, according to the instructions, it should be placed in the gutter. The karinznaya bar, as I understand it, hangs down so that a ventilation gap remains between it and the film. But what is really happening. Firstly, the film can simply be bent to the top by the wind and it will close the vent. gap. But that's just a possibility.

Look at gutters in winter. Often they are simply overflowing with ice and snow. Vent. the gap is completely clogged and it is no longer possible to talk about any ventilation here. And this is in winter, when ventilation of the under-roof space is especially important.

Now look at the second and third pictures. It's basically the same thing. Here the waterproofing film is displayed on cornice plank. At the same time, when we put a metal tile on the eaves, it practically blocks the access of air to the ventilation gap. From the required height of 4-5 cm, we have practically nothing left.

AT winter time the story here is exactly the same as in the previous case. And it is not difficult to guess that on the film, in the place where it enters the outermost board of the crate, especially at small angles of inclination of the slopes, a hollow is formed in which the flowing condensate will accumulate. This is also not good.

Fortunately, more recently, many manufacturers have begun to redo their instructions. The scheme of the cornice overhang in them looks completely different. I first saw such a scheme a few years ago at some European manufacturer of natural tiles (I don’t remember the name now) and immediately realized that it was the only correct one. Now the same scheme has appeared in some instructions of our manufacturers.

For example, here is a picture from new instruction from Grandline (Fig. 4) and for greater clarity, another drawing, I don’t remember where I got it from (Fig. 5):

Combined attic insulation

Why insulate roof coverings

Covering the attic should not only protect the house from atmospheric precipitation (rain, snow), but also prevent cooling of the premises of the upper floor.

As you know, warm air, being lighter than cold air, always rises, so the air temperature under the ceiling is on average 2C higher than in the middle of the height of the room. With the same thermal insulation capacity of the walls and roof, heat loss through the latter will always be greater, due to the large temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the attic coating. In addition, the moisture content of warm air is usually higher than that of cold air, so condensation on the ceiling of an upper floor can form at higher temperatures than on the inside of the wall. In this regard, more stringent requirements are imposed on the thermal protection of roofing than on external walls.

Heat losses through the attic are quite large, therefore, correctly performed insulation of its coating can bring a tangible economic effect. When comparing two typical two-story houses with an area of 205 m 2 with attics, insulated in accordance with the old and new requirements, it was found that the current level of thermal protection can reduce heat loss through the coating by more than 3 kW and thereby significantly reduce the heating system capacity and reduce costs. for home heating.

Icicles hanging from the roof represent a significant danger to people. In the process of knocking down icicles, there is a high probability of damage to the roof with all the ensuing consequences.

One of the reasons for the formation of icicles in winter is the insufficient thermal insulation of the roof covering. Snow, heated from below by heat, a poorly insulated coating, begins to thaw, and the water flowing from the roof turns into icicles. Only with well-executed thermal insulation, icicles will not cause trouble in winter.

Requirements for thermal protection of coatings

Rationing of thermal protection of enclosing structures, which include roofs, is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-3-79 * Building Heat Engineering (issue of 1998), taking into account the average air temperature and duration heating period insulation in the construction area frame attic. In accordance with these standards, the required reduced resistance to heat transfer R o (see the article Is it worth saving on insulation?) of roofing for Moscow and the Moscow region should be at least 4.7 m 2 C / W.

Design features

It should not be forgotten that the moisture content of warm indoor air is higher than cold outdoor air, so the diffusion of water vapor (both through the attic floor and through the outer walls of the building) is directed from the room to the outside. The outer (upper) part of the roofing is a waterproofing layer that does not pass water vapor well and contributes to the formation of condensation moisture from the inner (lower) side of the roof. The consequences are not long in coming: despite the well-executed waterproofing of the roof, on the inner surface roofing wet spots and mold will appear, thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate insulation, from the ceiling droplets of water will begin to fall (not due to a roof leak, but as a result of condensation of water vapor).

Given the negative impact of moisture on thermal insulation characteristics materials, the insulation must be protected from moisture by water vapor contained in the air of the room, with a layer of vapor barrier material, placing it on the inner (lower) side of the insulation. To remove moisture that for some reason got into the heat-insulating material, a ventilated air gap should be provided between the insulation and the outer (waterproofing) layer of the roofing.

2 Attic insulation with mineral wool - arguments "For" and "Against"

When choosing building materials many of us prioritize price first and performance second. And the reason for this is not so much the recent crisis as an elementary desire to save money. True, with mineral wool you will not succeed, to budget materials she does not apply. However, just the characteristics will more than justify everything that will be spent on mineral wool, which is refractory (withstands temperatures up to 1000 degrees), moisture resistant, has a considerable margin of hardness and, in addition, is an excellent sound insulator. And all this goes only in addition to the excellent thermal insulation properties.

However, it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is far from a safe material and it must be chosen carefully, giving preference to well-known manufacturers. The fact is that the slightest violation of norms and standards in the manufacture of mineral wool makes it extremely dangerous to health. Companies that have long established themselves in the Russian market guarantee the quality of their products, but dozens of little-known companies involved in the production of mineral wool give such guarantees, for the most part, unfounded.

As a result, you run the risk of acquiring mineral wool, which over time will lose its rigidity, turning into dust from many hard mineral fibers, the smallest and sometimes invisible to the naked eye. Getting into the respiratory tract and in the eyes, these particles can cause many diseases. And the formaldehyde resins used as a binding element, with the wrong production technology, eventually begin to release substances harmful to humans: in fact, formaldehyde and phenol. From here it follows - choose mineral wool with an eye on the manufacturer's reputation, or give preference to less harmful materials, polyurethane foam, for example.

3 Attic insulation with polyurethane foam as an alternative to other materials

If you have free funds and a desire to have high-quality attic thermal insulation with little labor, consider such an option as polyurethane foam. In fact, this insulation is strikingly different from polystyrene and mineral wool, even if only in that it is not laid with slabs or mats, but is applied by spraying. Externally, polyurethane foam resembles mounting foam, especially after solidification, however, it is completely different from it in its structure, being a type of gas-filled plastics, that is, a relative of polystyrene foam insulation of the attic with penofol. Having hardened, polyurethane foam has the density of mineral wool, and its thermal insulation properties surpasses all other heaters, including penoizol. At the same time, this material is also a vapor barrier with high water resistance, that is, there is no need for additional protective layers when using it.

However, even such a wonderful material has disadvantages. First of all, this, of course, is the price, but, taking into account the characteristics of polyurethane foam, this is only an indirect drawback. The low level of resistance to esters and concentrated acids can also only be partly attributed to the minuses, because it is unlikely that anyone will come up with the idea of pouring sulfuric acid on the roof. But the low heat resistance of polyurethane foam is a really serious flaw in the properties of the material, because even with a low level of flammability, it begins to break down already at 80-90 degrees, and at higher temperatures it can ignite. Therefore, it is worth considering what exactly you would like to insulate the attic, and how to minimize the shortcomings of a particular material.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

The choice of insulation

The solution to the question of how and what is better to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the roof structure of the building and on the weather conditions of the area in which it is located. You can get acquainted with the basic requirements and norms regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones in SNiP 23-02-2003.

Today, the domestic construction market offers huge selection different in characteristics and cost of materials for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult to make a choice for a person who has never done such work before, but it is possible if you first study the information, do it yourself or consult with professionals or acquaintances who are competent in this matter.

Styrofoam. A lot of homeowners are attracted to such insulation as polystyrene because of its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly humid. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, gaps appear between them and the foam, through which the cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to settle in this heater.

Extruded polystyrene foam. No less popular insulation than polystyrene and in its characteristics is very similar to it. Only the technology is different, according to which it is performed from the inside with foam. Styrofoam boards laid on the rafters from above so that there are no gaps. The material in the form of plates is produced with stepped joints or according to the type of construction “thorn in the groove”. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and the total cost of the work depends on the size of the room.

Glass wool.

The technology according to which the attic roof is insulated with one's own hands using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself differs in structure:

glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, so it is more durable, resilient and has better soundproofing characteristics;
the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate the attic with our own hands, you can use several heat-insulating materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the gaps between the rafters, it is desirable to use mineral wool, and from above under the roof on roof structure lay polystyrene.

This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

since ecowool consists of 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is an environmentally friendly material;
in terms of heat-insulating parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
the use of ecowool allows you to qualitatively fill all the elements of the structure, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
the composition of the insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of fungus and mold on wooden parts;
ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
during operation does not lose its original volume.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed heaters. To insulate the attic with polyurethane foam, special equipment (portable units) is required. With a weight of 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 "squares" of area. Additional is not needed. The coating fills the existing voids and gaps to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the attic insulation is completed with polyurethane foam, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam for thermal insulation is used infrequently is its high cost.

Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproof properties. On one or both sides, the foamed polyethylene is covered with high-quality aluminum.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

ecological cleanliness;
low thermal conductivity;
the closed system of air bubbles of polyethylene foam prevents the penetration of steam.

Attic wall insulation

Now the attic is initially planned during the development of the house project, so its shape depends on the roof structure, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, a gable roof is created in individual buildings, since it allows you to maximize the use of the attic area. Often internal walls they don’t do it for a room on the roof at all. When gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then in addition to a height of 1-1.2 meters, the internal walls of the attic are erected. At the same time, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.

Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used for thermal insulation of the roof:

Attic floor insulation

To insulate the floor, various heat insulators are used. Materials are placed between the lags or on the subfloor. To insulate the flooring with fiberboards, first two layers of roofing material are laid, and then two rows of fibreboards. A clean floor is laid on top.

Sometimes they use a long-known method - insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 cm layer on the roofing material in the intervals between the lags. So that mice do not settle in the heat-insulating layer, sawdust should be mixed with lime. It is bad that such a heater refers to flammable materials.

Attic ceiling insulation

When using ecowool on false ceiling a crate is specially mounted, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (more details: ""). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the mounted roof from the inside, and the hemmed ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulation of the attic gable from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene are used. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using foam or polyurethane foam.

One of the main components comfortable living it's warm in the house. Unfortunately, due to poor thermal insulation, not all rooms maintain an optimal temperature for life, even if the heating system is working properly. Sometimes it is not enough to insulate a wall from the outside or from the inside:

do not allow the technical characteristics of the building;
such insulation schemes will not bring the desired result;
additional thermal insulation of the finished house is carried out.

In these cases, it is effective to apply thermal insulation in two layers. For a house in which it will be comfortable to live at any time of the year, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 15 cm, the combination of various heaters gives a greater effect than the use of one. Application of technologies of internal and external warmings is possible.

Stages of combined wall insulation

Works on insulation in 2 layers are divided into several stages:

installation of a waterproofing film;
insulation installation;
vapor barrier;
decorative finish.

Additional thermal insulation of the house is always done from the outside. If you do this work indoors, then the outer wall will freeze, condensation will appear, and later mold and fungus.

What is the cost of the service and what does it depend on

Prices for turnkey combined thermal insulation services are determined by the financial costs of purchasing materials and the complexity of the work performed at height. Independently cope with the installation of thermal insulation components and the choice modern materials very difficult. You need to choose the right materials, know all the subtleties and technical aspects of installing the structure, and so on, so you can’t do without a specialist.

The owner of a private house or apartment has the right to choose which of the methods of insulation is optimal for him, but still it is better to consult a specialist in this matter. A professional will tell you exactly which method to choose, which thermal insulation materials are better to use. Doing work on your own is not always possible, apartments can be located on the upper floors. Without special climbing equipment it is simply impossible to carry out any work. It will also take a lot of time and effort to search for specialists, and it is possible to get a quality guarantee only in words.

In such a situation, Yuda's website will help out, where you can very quickly find a real proven professional.

How to take advantage of the offer from Yudu

You can order a turnkey combined insulation service very quickly, for this you just need:

leave an application on the site, which indicate the desired amount that the user is willing to pay, all the nuances and difficulties of the work, the floor of the building, etc .;
choose a specialist from the list of responders;
get acquainted with the wizard's work with the help of reviews left by other users.

All data about the performers that are on the site are reliable, as they are constantly checked and updated by Yudu managers.

Combined thermal insulation has proven itself in the construction of new houses and the reconstruction of old ones. The obvious advantage of this method of insulation is that, if desired, most of the work can be done on its own.

The main one is slabs of pressed mineral wool. The technology of their fastening largely depends on the material from which the walls are composed. Combined thermal insulation is used both for the insulation of newly built houses, and for improving the thermal protection of long-built ones. First, heat-insulating boards are attached directly to the outer walls, and then these boards are plastered - a layer of plaster protects the easily deformable material from external influences. To compensate for the resulting internal stresses, a reinforcing mesh is embedded in the solution.

To ensure the necessary degree of thermal insulation, it is necessary to mount this combined “clothing” carefully, ensuring a tight joint not only between the plates themselves, but also between the plates and structures - especially near windows, pipe outlets, plinths, where gaps may remain forming “thermal bridges” (builders often call them cold bridges). Corners and raised edges are protected against damage by plinths, corner profiles or reinforcing mesh.

Mounting methods

When choosing thermal insulation material besides the main one, its other properties are also taken into account. So, in our case, thermal insulation meets the increased requirements. fire safety and is intended primarily for the insulation of tall buildings, which is also very important.

The method of applying such thermal insulation also depends on the material from which the walls are made. Pressed mineral wool slabs can be glued to solid and even outer walls, additionally secured with special dowels. To fix the thermal insulation to a weak and uneven base, connecting-support profiles are used, which not only hold the plates, but also compensate for the unevenness of the base.

Socle profiles, sawn down at the ends "on the mustache", are exposed with the help of washers and mounted on special dowels.

Glue is applied to the insulating plate. In this case, the plate is supported on a board placed in a tray to collect flowing glue.

The plates smeared with glue are inserted into the base profile. On the plates of the first row put the plates of the second. Vertical seams between slabs of adjacent rows must be mutually offset.

Insulating boards are pressed as tightly as possible to the wall and so that they do not protrude at the joints. Then the plates are additionally fixed with dowels.

If the base is weak and uneven, the adhesive mount is not suitable. In this case, mechanical fastening of thermal insulation plates is used.

Special mineral-fiber plates with grooves and folds on the edges are connected to the wall and to each other using aluminum profiles.

A fiberglass mesh is pressed into the wet mortar to be reinforced, after which the mortar is immediately smoothed out.

For decorative finishes walls use mineral plasters.

Layered section of thermal insulation: mineral-fibrous thermal insulation board, fixed with glue and dowels, covered with a mortar with a reinforcing mesh; decorative finishing - plaster.

Feature of plaster

The surface of the insulating boards must be even, and at the joints they must not protrude one above the other. Leveling layer reinforced plaster serves as thermal insulation protection. And although the plaster compensates for the unevenness of the base, the thickness of its layer should be the same everywhere, if possible, otherwise the occurrence of internal stresses, and hence cracks, cannot be avoided.

When using such combined thermal insulation, additional expansion joints are not required. However, if they already exist in the building, they must be repeated in the thermal insulation layer.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Received an order for insulation yesterday. frame house. The client took independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder can face a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic country cottage built according to frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

Outdoor	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, therefore, during the construction works the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
A wooden wall in direct contact with warm air in a room accumulates thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, to internal thermal insulation can only be used when insulating a very old house: the installed insulation material from the inside will avoid dismantling exterior finish which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. I have encountered situations several times where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during the severe winter cold. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit during a fire a large number smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical specifications and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for middle lane Russia energy efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats right size they are simply inserted into the gaps between the beams of the frame, without requiring additional lathing, fittings and the use of "wet" building processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use a foil insulation based on polyethylene foam (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I tell you how to insulate frame house for winter residence. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

cleansing wooden details from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden facing materials, therefore, pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I insulated new house work in progress. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

I install engineering communications. If a hidden gasket is expected engineering systems, then it is better to do this before sewing the walls with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:

All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
During installation water pipes there should be no detachable connections inside the wall, which over time can loosen and leak.

I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guard), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
- Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
- Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
- Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
- The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
- The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
- Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
- To seal the seams, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:

It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
- Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
- Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
- Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer lining and drafts blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology of their installation when I talked about inner lining frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use e.g. vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be mounted on a profile fixed on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of thermal energy loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is embedded in the gaps between the beams attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up sheet material(in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
as floor covering a tongue-and-groove board is used, which is placed on the counter-lattice;
if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read separate material dedicated to thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

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