Finishing with facing tiles. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles in the bathroom and kitchen. Determine the location of the horizontal rows

wall cladding ceramic tiles produced on leveled surfaces, cleaned of dirt, alluvium solution and grease stains. On a surface brickwork with filled joints and concrete surfaces are notched. If the walls are wooden, before facing with ceramic tiles, they must be upholstered with a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10-15 mm. The mesh is not nailed directly onto a wooden wall, but onto wooden bars 20-25 mm thick and 30-40 mm wide. Between rails and surface wooden wall first you need to lay a layer of roofing felt or roofing material. Coat the grid with cement mortar with the addition of fibrous substances (grade 6-7 asbestos, tow), after which this surface is plastered with cement mortar 1:3. The thickness of the plaster layer must be at least 15 mm. It is not necessary to smooth the plaster and overwrite the plaque.

By the time of tiling, concrete must be at least 6 months old, and cement and cement-lime plasters - at least 28 days.

It should also be remembered that not all walls that will be lined with not cleared of paint can be used for such work. The best way check the suitability of the paint - stick the adhesive tape and leave it overnight. If, when tearing off the tape, you find that the paint is lagging behind, it will have to be removed, otherwise the tile will fall off.

Materials for laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Adhesive selection

For tile work, you will also need adhesives for gluing tiles to the base and compounds for filling joints (other names are grouts, grouts, jointers). From right choice adhesive compositions depends on the durability of the cladding.

Can be tiled and traditional way- on the cement-sand mortar, but it does not provide durability of the coating. Under the influence of mechanical loads, the cement-sand mixture is gradually destroyed, and under the influence of water and aggressive environments, the inter-tile grout is destroyed, after which the tiles begin to fall off one after another. Therefore, for gluing tiles and grouting joints, it is necessary to use cement-polymer mixtures with the addition of acrylic dispersions or water-borne epoxy resins.

The formulation of special additives determines the consumer properties and cost of tile mixes. For example, some quick setting adhesives are preferred for tiling on difficult substrates such as painted surfaces, old tiles, plastic panels, plasterboard boards. True, not all tile mixtures are absolutely water resistant and resistant to antibacterial additives (including chlorine-containing ones), that is, not every adhesive is suitable for tiling pools, showers, etc. with ceramic tiles. When laying tiles on surfaces subject to cyclic temperature exposure (fireplaces, heated floors), it is necessary to select special adhesives.

Unfavorable weather conditions make it preferable to use an adhesive with increased open time. The designation of adhesives of this class contains the letter E, for example: C2E - cement adhesive, improved, with increased open time (E).

For conventional adhesives, the full curing period is 14 days. This period can be significantly reduced (up to 1-2 days) by the use of fast-setting adhesives (letter F in the designation of the adhesive class).

The choice of adhesive is influenced by a number of factors: the type of tile, its dimensions, the type of base on which it will be laid, operating conditions and work. In addition, you should take into account how much time is available before the start of use of the coating: when deadlines are short, special materials are needed.

The adhesive for laying ceramic tiles must guarantee a secure bond between the substrate and the facing material. It must have high adhesion to the main types of building materials. The curing of the composition should occur quickly enough and without shrinkage. However, you should leave some time before curing (for different brands it is different) - for correcting tiles after gluing.

According to their purpose, tile adhesives are divided into:

• formulations for internal use (waterproof or non-waterproof)
• compositions for external use.

In addition, there are universal adhesive compositions for external and internal use. However, the application of any adhesive requires proper preparation of the substrate, which must be clean, even and dry. Smooth paint coatings must be made rough by treating them, for example, with a coarse-grained "skin" or by scratching the surface.

Currently, adhesives in the form of dry mixes based on cement with additives are actively used. It is an easy-to-process mortar with a low amount of lumps and high adhesive power, which is formed when mixed with water. Required amount water is indicated on the packaging. Generally, dry mix adhesives are suitable for leveling surfaces and filling. Although the practice of using cement-sand mortar for tile installation and grouting is widespread, it is not the most best technology, because it does not provide durability of the coating. Firstly, having a low compressive strength, the underlying cement-sand mixture under the influence of mechanical loads gradually collapses, and secondly, under the influence of water and aggressive media, the inter-tile grout is destroyed, the liquid penetrates to the underlying layer and the base and destroys them. The adhesion is broken, and the tiles begin to fall off one by one. After some time, the process of destruction of the cladding acquires an avalanche-like character:

Therefore, for gluing tiles and grouting, it is necessary to use specialized compounds, which can be cement-polymer (with the addition of acrylic dispersions or water-borne epoxy resins) and polymer (usually based on epoxy filled compounds). Typically, cement-polymer compounds are used when gluing tiles in dry rooms, and polymer compounds are used when gluing tiles in "wet" and in the presence of aggressive environments. However, the presence of chemical solvents makes them more hazardous to health than dry mixes and requires good ventilation. The use of special additives determines the consumer properties and cost of tile mixes. Some special recipes

adhesive compositions allows them to be used for mounting tiles on difficult substrates, such as painted surfaces, old tiles, plastic panels, gypsum boards.

Ceramic tiles can be laid end-to-end, but joints should be left between them, which are filled with grouting solution (fugue). Grouting is done after the glue has completely dried. The seams play an important role: the tiles do not crack or fall off, the seams hide the dimensional defects of the tiles, and give the surface a more aesthetic appearance. The width of the joint depends on the size of the tile: the larger the tile, the wider the joint. Small tiles (15 x 15 cm) should be 2-3 mm apart, and floor tiles 35 x 40 cm should be up to 10-12 mm apart. The material for filling the joints must be selected by color, but the final color of the fugue is set after the solution has completely dried.

A high-quality and well-prepared grouting solution is very plastic and well fills the seams between ceramic, marble, concrete, stone tiles. The mixture is suitable for use both inside and outside buildings, in dry and wet rooms. After complete hardening, the seams become moisture resistant, as well as resistant to high and low temperatures.

There are two types of grout mix. Depending on the width of the joints between the laid tiles, mixtures are used for narrow joints (up to 6 mm) or for wide joints (from 4 to 16 mm). Narrow reveals are produced in a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose the appropriate color for any type of tile.

Currently, for grouting joints between ceramic tiles, dry mixes are most widely used, which are usually produced on the basis of white cement, natural fillers, modifying chemical additives and pigment. Polymer additives avoid the formation of shrinkage cracks, give the material strength and moisture resistance. Chemical additives introduced into grouting compounds give them frost resistance properties, which allows them to be used for grouting joints in external facing works.

It is important to note that moisture resistance does not always imply the suitability of a particular compound for use in swimming pools, bathrooms, etc. In such cases, it may be necessary to use special grouting materials.

It is recommended to use a mixture of the same number and the same packaging date to avoid slight color differences. During operation, direct sunlight and drafts should be avoided. Note also that the choice suitable materials for tile work is wide enough, and in this matter, you should first of all focus on the reputation of the manufacturer, and it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists.

Proper gluing of tiles on one wall is not difficult. Problems arise when you need to glue tiles in corners, along the edges of the bathtub or in other places that are difficult to work with.

Previously, special tiles were used for such purposes, one or two of the edges of which were covered with glaze. However, they were not impact resistant. Currently, the corners are trimmed with special strips made of artificial material (mainly plastic). The shape of the planks is selected in such a way that it is possible to finish the inner and outer corners, joining the walls with the edges of the bath or walls with the floor. The color range of the planks produced is very wide (they are also produced with different patterns): from one-color, including golden ones, to marble ones.

A special group is universal finishing strips. They are used at the joints of tiles of various thicknesses; quite often you have to dock with their help wall tiles 7 mm thick with 9 mm floor thickness. Also, these strips are used for uneven corners in the kitchen or in the bathroom. Due to their elasticity, these strips are also used for joints in angles other than straight.

Wall tiling options

It is important to choose the right place to start work. Usually used as a reliable support for tiles. wooden slats. You need to carefully plan the location of the tiles and cut the end tiles accurately. The final operation is filling the joints. Ceramic tiles can be laid on the wall in several ways: “seam to seam”, “tied up” and “diagonally”

Features of wall cladding using the seam-to-seam method

When facing a seam in a seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are located one after another without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form single horizontal and vertical lines extending from the beginning to the end of the lining

A great option for lovers of strict symmetry. However, "symmetrical" does not mean "boring", and seam-to-seam facing is not as easy as it might seem. The seams must be absolutely straight and uniform in thickness. Any deviation from the ideal will be immediately evident. The key to success when facing a seam in a seam is as follows: the first is the careful sorting of tiles by size, the second is accuracy and precision in work.

Features of wall cladding in a way apart

When facing in a scatter, the tiles of the next row are located with an offset relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. The seams of even rows form their own broken line, the seams of odd rows form their own.

The advantage of this method is that it eliminates the need to carefully sort the tiles by size. Small deviations in the thickness of the joints will not be as noticeable as when facing the seam in the seam. Of course, this does not mean that tiles can be glued somehow without worrying about the verticality and thickness of the seams when facing side by side. Plastic crosses help to maintain a certain seam width. Verticality is periodically checked with a plumb bob.

Features of diagonal wall cladding

With diagonal cladding, tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45 °

When marking, the base is divided in such a way that an integer number of triangular tiles (that is, tiles cut in half diagonally) fit vertically and horizontally.

A mooring cord is pulled along the seam line and rows of tiles are laid along it between the triangular tiles and the wall along the entire perimeter. Then lay out triangular tiles. In the corners, fragments of incomplete tiles of the desired size are attached.

Finally, lay the main tile. Four cords are fixed on the pins: two groups of two parallel cords. The cords are pulled at an angle of 45 °. Ordinary tiles are laid out along these moorings. In the process of work, the series are periodically checked by the rule with the level.

Scheme of diagonal tile laying: 1 - pins, 2 - mooring cords, 3 - rows of tiles around the perimeter, 4 - rows of triangular tiles.

The most important part of tile work is cutting tiles, but if available good machine and everything is measured correctly, then there is no need to worry. For curved cuts, such as around pipes, it is best to use a tile saw. This special tool makes the job much easier. When tiling, a lot of dirt appears, so it is important style = “margin-top: 15px;” about periodically washing tools and preventing droplets of solutions from hardening on the surface of the tiles.

Before cutting the tile, it is better to soak it in water. When 40-60 minutes have passed, you need to cut the tile at the marked line with a roller glass cutter. Then, aligning the cut line with the edge of the table, break the tile: it will disintegrate exactly along the cut line. After that, the edges must be trimmed with a grinding stone or sandpaper and sanded. To break off round pieces, it is better to use wire cutters.

Since ceramic tiles have certain fixed dimensions, it will take quite a lot of tiles to get the job done. To make the work look professional, you need to try to place whole tiles on the wall. To complete the ends of horizontal rows, and the top and bottom of vertical rows, it is best to use tiles cut to the same width. The width of cut tiles should be between 1/4 and 3/4 of the width of the whole tile: narrower and wider parts are difficult to cut accurately. Since the rooms are not regular rectangles, it is necessary to lay all the whole tiles of the row before cutting the end tiles. Therefore, planning the placement of tiles is the most important part of the job.

One of the most difficult operations is making a hole in a ceramic tile. First, with the sharp end of the tap or the angle of the chisel blade at the site of the future hole, you need to remove the glaze. To do this, lightly tap the tool with a hammer. Further steps may vary.

If the tile is already glued to the wall, the intended hole can be drilled hand drill(the electric one has too high speed). At the same time, a drill or a punch with a winning surfacing must be clamped into the chuck.

In a tile that has not yet been installed on the wall, it is better to make a hole by simply holding the drill in your hand.

You can drill a tile in order to hang a shelf, a soap dish and other items on the wall as follows. take medium size a file and its end, on which a handle is inserted; put on the point of the tile where it is planned to make a hole. Then, with light blows of a hammer, on the opposite end of the file, carefully, so as not to split, pierce the top shiny layer of the tile (glaze). Now, with a brace or an electric drill, carefully drill the tile with a drill. The drill needs to be moistened from time to time.

Larger cutouts in the tiles must first be marked on the front side. Then make notches (for example, with a center punch) to install the drill tip. Now, along the perimeter of the given cutout, it is necessary to drill holes of 04-5 mm at a low number of revolutions of the drill, and then drill these same holes with a drill larger diameter. Further, the part outlined in this way is knocked out, cut out or sawed out.

To make holes of large diameter, you can use a special crown cutter or ballerina drill.

Sometimes the tile is simply broken into pieces and suitable fragments are glued to the wall, bypassing an obstacle (for example, a pipe).

Cutting corners and niches around the perimeter of the tile, they first scratch a line of the appropriate shape on it, and then break it off with special pliers.

When facing bathrooms, to eliminate the gap between the bathroom and the wall, you can make an ebb of tile. It is installed on a cement-sand mortar. First, the tiles are cut. It should be taken into account its future slope, the width of the seams and the fact that the cut edge should be turned towards the wall. Then the gap between the bathtub and the wall is filled with something flush with the upper edge of the bathtub so that the solution does not spill down. A solution is applied to the back of the tile and put in place. Then it is gently tapped with a rubber mallet, aligning the upper edge with the plane of the wall and achieving the required slope. Seams are made with crosses.

Ceramic tile laying technology: a) application of adhesive solution on the wall surface; b) laying the first tile according to the rules; c) laying the rest of the tiles using beacons; d) cutting tiles; e) grouting joints between tiles; f) cleaning of the facing surface after completion of work

Tiles are laid in horizontal rows from bottom to top. Cover a small area of ​​the wall at a time so the adhesive doesn't have time to harden before you put the tiles in place

• Stage 1. Having attached a horizontal guide bar to the wall, it must be installed strictly horizontally according to the spirit level. Then it should be fixed on the wall so that it can be easily removed later.
• Stage 2. At the edge of the area to be lined, you need to attach a second bar at a right angle to the horizontal guide - this will be the vertical guide for the vertical row. It is best to attach horizontal and vertical guides to all clad walls.
• Stage 3. It is necessary to apply glue to an area of ​​approximately 1 m 2, spreading it with a notched spatula so that the glue surface is grooved. Then you need to attach the first tile in the corner formed by the two planks. Lay the first row along the wall to another vertical rail. Plastic crosses must be inserted into the intervals between tiles if the edges are rectangular; Tiles with rounded edges or with protrusions at the bottom must be applied close to each other.
• Stage 4. Continue laying the next horizontal rows between the vertical strips to the desired height. Then you need to run a knife along the edges of the rails to clean the joints from the adhesive solution. After removing the guide strips, you should mark the incomplete tiles, cut them and put on the glue in the places left for them.
• Stage 5. Allow the adhesive to harden for 12 hours. During this time, treat the area not yet covered with tiles. Then grout the seams and close the gaps between the bathtub, washbasin, kitchen worktop, etc. and the wall. At the end of the work, wipe the tiles with a damp cloth.

Corner cladding

When facing walls tiles you almost always have to deal with corners. You should be prepared to solve these problems in advance, at the planning and layout stage.

At inner corner cladding you need to overlap the edge of one tile on the plane of another. It is better to think in advance how to make sure that there is a gap for grouting.

Run outer corner cladding It is possible with the help of a double-sided finishing strip, which is applied to the adhesive solution and which simultaneously fixes 2 vertical rows of tiles on both sides. Sometimes a one-sided finishing strip is used, especially if the tile is not rounded. Instead of using a finishing strip, you can simply lap adjacent tiles on top of one another, making sure the top one has a rounded or glazed edge.

The area of ​​the wall directly behind the sink or sink needs to be protected from splashing water. To do this, it is best to tile it. If the sink or sink is installed parallel to the wall, you can use its back edge as a support for the first row of tiles.

The wall above the sink is usually tiled, which allows you to turn this place into an attractive decor element. The joint between the bottom row of tiles and the edge of the sink must be well sealed silicone sealant. To get a neat bead of sealant, before applying it, you need to make a guide from masking tape.

Wall cladding above the sink will look prettier if only full-width tiles are applied, without trimming. For framing, you can lay out curb tiles around the perimeter of this area. When facing the wall above the sink, tiles of any size are suitable, but it is better to use large ones. Their use allows to reduce the number of cemented joints, and this prolongs the service life of the cladding. Cement is destroyed first of all, so the fewer joints, the smaller the volume of future repair work. Since the size of the area to be tiled is small and does not require a lot of tiles, it is better to spend a little more money and buy what you like. This slight extravagance can greatly increase the decorative appeal of a finish while maintaining its practicality. So, let's get to the lining.

• Stage 1. In order for the pattern to be symmetrical, it is necessary to lay the tiles from the center of the sink to its sides. Having found the center of the back edge of the sink, you need to attach a spirit level vertically to the center point and draw a drive line along it with a pencil.
• Stage 2. When facing relatively small areas, it is more convenient to apply the mortar directly to the back side of the tiles, and not to the wall, as is usually done.
• Stage 3. Lay the first tile on the wall, aligning it exactly with the vertical drive line. To achieve a strong adhesion, it is necessary to firmly press the tile to the wall surface.
• Stage 4. Lay the next tile on the other side of the drive line towards the opposite edge of the sink, aligning it with the drive line. To obtain the same gap between the tiles, as well as between the bottom row of tiles and the sink, it is better to use spacers. Lay all tiles.
• Stage 5. Let the lined area be framed by a border. When laying curb tiles, spacers should be used to achieve an even gap between large tiles and the curb. The solution must be applied to the reverse side of the curb tiles.
• Stage 6. It is possible that in order to accurately frame the tiled area, several curb tiles will have to be cut. The square shape of the tiles allows you to cut them to the desired size. You need to plan the layout of the tiles so that the cut tiles are in the least visible places.
• Stage 7. After laying all the tiles, allow the mortar to set for 24 hours. Cement all joints. When the solution dries, you need to wipe off its remnants. Having pasted a masking tape along the joint, the joint between the lower row of tiles and the sink should be sealed with silicone sealant.
• Stage 8. After applying the sealant, while it is not yet dry, you need to remove the strips of tape. Along the junction of the tile with the sink, you get a neat bead of sealant. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before using the sink.

Placing entire tiles on a wall free of obstructions such as windows and doors is simple. But obstacles, especially windows, complicate this task. Since the window is the centerpiece of the wall, the tiles must be positioned relative to the center of the window.

• Stage 1. To plan the placement of tiles, you need to make a measuring ruler. To do this, you can take a 50 × 25 mm plank of softwood 1 m long with edges planed along the ruler. Lay several tiles along the plank and, if the tiles do not have protrusions or spacers, mark the width of the tiles on the plank.
• Stage 2. Having attached a measuring ruler horizontally to the wall, you need to determine where the whole tiles will be. You should arrange them so that the end tiles are the same size.
• Stage 3. If the end tiles are too narrow (less than one quarter of the width of the whole tile), move the ruler half the width of the whole tile. This will increase the width of the end tiles.

Wall tiling in difficult places

When tiling adjoining walls, you will need to tile the inside and possibly outside corners. Since the corners are rarely straight, each wall should be clad separately, working along the horizontal guide rails. Care must be taken when installing horizontal rails on adjacent walls - they must be on the same level. Even with a slight mismatch in levels, the vertical rows will diverge, and when facing the wall to the ceiling, the horizontal rows will not match along the junction line above the door. When facing a window opening, you first need to veneer the front wall with whole tiles, then lay the trimmed ones and veneer the side walls of the niche and the window sill. If the door is in the center of the wall and the tile is laid up to the ceiling, then it must be positioned so as to avoid narrow tiles next to the door and in the corners of the room. If the door is in a corner, first tile two walls, then cut the tiles and lay them above the door. Techniques for cladding a window niche are also used for cladding a doorway.

• Stage 1. When facing the wall to the ceiling, you need to lay all the whole tiles on the side of the window, but not above the window. Attach the plank to the wall so that its top edge is flush with the bottom edge of the lowest row of whole tiles above the top of the window. This plank will serve as a support for whole tiles laid above the window.
• Stage 2. Lay the cut tiles on the sides of the window, starting at the windowsill. To fit the tile to the window sill, you may need to make an L-cut (see step 3) or use wire cutters (see step 5). To make it easier to cut tiles, you need to plan ahead for their placement.
• Stage 3. If you want to make an L-shaped cut in the tile, you need to mark the cut lines on the front side of the tile. Clamping the tile in a vise between wooden blocks, make the first cut with a saw. Having made the second cut, it is necessary to break out a piece of tile, and clean the edges with a file. Thin tiles must be clamped horizontally so that they do not crack.
• Stage 4. You need to wait for the mortar to set, and then you should remove the bar at the top of the window and lay the rest of the tiles on the wall. It is possible that the corner tiles will need to be cut into an L shape. To avoid the need for narrow strips that are difficult to cut, plan the layout of the tiles in advance.
• Stage 5. If you want to cut a narrow strip from the tile, you need to make a notch along the cut line with a cutter, and then break off excess pieces with wire cutters. Clean the edge with a tile file. (Having made a curved notch with a hand cutter, cutters can make a cut of the appropriate shape.)
• Stage 6. Lay whole tiles inside the window niche. If the tiles do not have separating ridges, spacers can be used to create a grouted gap between the bottom tiles and the sill.
• Stage 7. Finally, measure and cut each tile for facing adjacent to window frame part of the side wall of the window niche. After the mortar has set, the joints can be cemented.
• Stage 8. In inner corner cut and lay the tiles of the last vertical row on one wall so that they fit into the corner. Then lay the last vertical row of tiles on the second wall, using spacers to create a grouted gap in the corner between the two vertical rows. On the outer corner, lay whole tiles on each side of the corner.

Small tiles - sheet mosaic - are a good alternative to large or standard size tiles. Unlike ordinary tiles, mosaic tiles allow you to create decorative panels fine details while maintaining surface wear resistance. Mosaic tiles are laid in large blocks of the same color that can be cut through with borders, or mixed blocks different colors to create a combined pattern. This option gives a good result when all walls are tiled or when a brighter and more attractive finish is required.

Sheet mosaic tile has all the advantages of the usual, but looks different. The tiles are attached to a mesh backing, so the sheets are easy to cut and attach to the wall. Mosaic tiles can also be used to cover small areas. To enhance the decorative effect, you should combine mosaic tiles of different colors.

Since the size of the mosaic tiles is small, they are attached to the substrate to form sheets, so that a large number of such tiles are laid at one time. To cover small areas or create desired effects, individual tiles or strips of tiles can be separated from the sheet. To obtain good results, even when creating arbitrary patterns, it is necessary to reproduce the pattern on the floor, dry, before covering the wall. When facing large areas, it is better to use a template ruler.

• Stage 1. Before laying the tiles on the wall, you need to decide how adjacent sheets will fit together. To do this, it is better to lay them on a flat surface or on a board, overlapping one sheet with another, as you will need to cut through the substrate.
• Stage 2 . In each row of overlapping sections of tiles, cut through the backing of both sheets with a knife. To obtain strips of different lengths, one to five tiles can be cut in each row.
• Stage 3. After removing the extra tiles, it is necessary to lay the sheets on a flat surface so that the "protrusions" of one sheet enter the "grooves" of the other. The resulting initial pattern can be changed by replacing tiles of one color with tiles of another. Having decided which tiles in each sheet you want to replace, they need to be marked with a wax pencil.
• Stage 4. Lay the first sheet on the wall, using the rail as a support for the bottom row. Align the tiles with a mini-roller for their strong and uniform adhesion to the wall surface.
• Stage 5. Glue a sheet of tiles of a different color by inserting its “protrusions” into the “slots” of the first sheet according to the sketch. Smooth the tiles again with a mini-roller. Special attention it is necessary to give the joints between the sheets, ensuring their exact alignment.
• Stage 6. Before the mortar sets, you need to cut out the marked tiles with a knife. This operation is best performed at this stage of the work, since sheets with numerous cutouts of various sizes are more difficult to lay on the wall.
• Stage 7. Glue the individual mosaic tiles into the appropriate holes. Lay the rest of the sheets in the same way, completing the creation of an arbitrary pattern. When the solution sets, close the joints in the usual way.

Adhesive installation of tiles is the most reliable way to seal the surface of the walls, making them beautiful at the same time. This type of wall decoration does not require any special skills and even allows you to do without assistants.

But when starting to work with your own hands, you need to remember that there are certain rules for tiling with ceramic tiles. If you want to get a high-quality durable coating, they must be observed.

Informative information about ceramic tiles

When it comes to finishing the exterior walls of a house, the remarkable properties of ceramic tiles are of particular value, because the service life load-bearing structures with such a coating increases significantly. Modern production of finishing materials is developing so rapidly that in quite short time new items appear, as well as traditional, but somewhat improved products.

• This trend has not bypassed ceramic coatings - well-known materials that have retained their popularity for many decades. In this chapter, we will tell you everything about facing ceramic tiles: the composition of the raw materials used in production, molding methods, front surface coating options. You will also be presented with a video on this topic.

Production methods

Building ceramics are produced in three main ways:

• The first and main way- this is semi-dry pressing from powder raw materials, the moisture content of which does not exceed 7%. Almost all facade tiles are produced in this way, it turns out to be as durable and frost-resistant as possible.
• The second way is casting. It uses slip as a raw material - an aqueous suspension of clay with a moisture content of up to 33%. In this way, tiles for interior decoration are produced.
• The third way to produce tiles is carried out by plastic molding of products from masses, the moisture content of which is in the range of 15-20%. It is used mainly for making imitations of brick and stone.

Clay raw materials contain mineral supplements as quartz sand, feldspar, vermiculite, perlite, glass or slag. As a result of the technological processing of the raw mass: molding, drying and firing - single or double, of varying degrees of sintering, facing ceramic tiles acquire a variety of properties.

Accordingly, they determine the purpose of the tile:

• In order to obtain products of higher quality, the technology for manufacturing building ceramics is constantly being improved. All stages of production are modernized, from the processing of raw materials to the decoration of finished tiles. Many manufacturers have their own original recipes that both increase strength and improve the quality of the front surface.
• Some introduce ground porcelain into the composition of the raw material, or rather, the waste of its production. Others add enriched coal, others use glass components. The sizes of facing ceramic tiles also vary, but within the standard established for these products.

• GOST 13996-93 regulates the production of 15 standard sizes of facade tiles, the largest of which is 300 * 150 * 9 mm. In this case, we are talking about tiles intended for adhesive installation. Ceramic cladding can also be carried out according to the system of ventilated facades, where the panels are hung on the frame.
• For this purpose, on the contrary, large modules are more often used, the length of which can reach up to six meters - but today we are not talking about them. Adhesive facing with large format ceramic tiles on vertical surfaces is not welcome.

A lot of weight requires anchoring, otherwise it will not last long. The price of coverage also increases - and this is not beneficial to anyone.

Most often, facade tiles imitate the shape of a brick, and are close in size to it. Example photos - the best of that proof.

Tile decor

The tile acquires its basic properties after applying a decorative layer on it. It is he who makes the shard waterproof and immune to pollution. Well, of course, the aesthetics of the product also depends on it.

• decoration ceramic products carried out by the most different ways. For example, a tile is glazed: after a single firing, a thin layer of an aqueous dispersion of glass powder is applied to it, but an underglaze layer is first applied to the surface.
• This is done to improve the adhesion of the glaze to the shard, as well as to prevent the formation of gas bubbles in the glaze. After that, the products are sent to the furnace for secondary firing. To obtain a colored tile, mineral pigments are added to the raw mixture, and heat-resistant dyes are also applied under the glaze, or on it.

• Thanks to the computerization of production, last years both glaze formulations and methods of its application have undergone significant changes. If earlier it was believed that double-fired tiles have the best quality, today the situation has changed radically.
• Many European manufacturers prefer single firing. The aesthetics of the tiles is also improved due to the repeated introduction of pigments into the raw mixture. different color with layer-by-layer pressing.
• For getting colors, inherent in natural stone, soluble salts are introduced into the mixture along with mineral pigments. The ceramic base, by analogy with the laminate, can be pressed with a decorating material having a given pattern. This method is often used in the production of porcelain stoneware.

In the production of facade tiles, as well as stove tiles, a relatively new invention is also used, which is called: ceramic mass for cladding. This is a raw mix that includes fusible and refractory clays; porcelain and glass batt; sand of expanded vermiculite and sulfite-yeast brew.

Such masses make it possible to obtain a more durable and lighter tile with excellent thermal properties.

Facing works

Choose beautiful and quality tiles- this is only half the battle. The main thing is that the technology of ceramic cladding be observed exactly. Only in this case, the result will please, and there will be no extra costs.

The instructions presented in this chapter are to help those who are faced with this work for the first time:

• Cladding the facade of the house is not the same as decorating the walls in the kitchen or decorating the bathroom. First of all, the scope of work differs. Therefore, so that the process of their implementation does not become too time-consuming and does not drag out in time, you need to purchase a tile cutter.

In addition, you will need a drill with drills and a mixer nozzle; tile cutters; rubber mallet; rule with level; marking cord and plumb line; notched trowel; curved stitching and a brush - or even better a spray gun. And, of course, you should take care of scaffolding or scaffolding that allows you to work at height.

The quality of the adhesive is the key to a durable coating

Main consumable, used in the performance of facing works, is an adhesive solution. You can make it yourself, or you can buy it.

• The second comes out a little more expensive, but with a small amount of work, this difference is not too significant. If the building is large and it is supposed to be completely lined, it is more profitable to mix the mortar yourself. Let us draw your attention to some significant nuances.
• Cement is the binder for ceramic tile installation mortar. When it comes to outdoor work, the brand of cement used should not be lower than M300 - in any case, when the base for cladding is concrete or brick.
• Relaxation is only allowed for the installation of tiles on plaster, insulation, or when facing asbestos-cement partitions inside buildings. Here is one of the rules adopted in construction, which should be observed: the strength of the adhesive solution should be close to the strength of the base.
• In order to enhance the strength characteristics of the adhesive layer, modifying additives must be present in its composition - they are also found in factory mixtures. So that you do not have to dose certain additives when making the solution yourself, the easiest way is to buy plasticized Portland cement.

• The necessary additives are used in its production, while the brand of cement rises to M400 or M500. The plasticizing effect is necessary to reduce the proportion of water in the solution, and, consequently, increase its density. In this case, the composition acquires frost resistance and water-repellent properties.
• An obligatory element of tile adhesive is also sand, and it would be a mistake to think that its quality does not affect the quality of the solution. Influences, and how! For the manufacture of facing mortars, sand must have an average or coarse fraction and the content of impurities in it should not exceed 1% of total mass.
• The ratio of cement and sand in the solution depends on the brand of cement. If it is M500, then the dry ingredients are 1:6. Water is added until a usable consistency is obtained - this is approximately 30% of the total mass of dry aggregate. By the way, ceramic tile cladding can be repaired with the same solution.

The amount of glue made in one batch should be such that it can be worked out before plasticity is lost. It is useless to reanimate the solidifying mixture by adding water to it.

Substrate preparation and cladding

Facade durability ceramic finish depends not only on the quality of the tile and the correct solution for its installation. Important role also plays the quality of the base, which is to be revetted.

So:

• In order for the final result to please, the vertical surface must be thoroughly cleaned, leveled and primed if possible. External corners in ceramic tiling are of paramount importance. They must be even, otherwise it will be difficult to mount corner tile elements.

• The corners, as well as the walls of brick houses, are especially guilty of unevenness. Therefore, the first thing to do after stripping is hanging. That is, with the help of a plumb line and a rule, deviations of the surface from the vertical should be identified by circling them with chalk. All recesses with a depth of more than 1.5 cm must be plastered - for this you can use the same mortar that will be used for gluing the tiles.
• If the irregularities turn out to be more significant, the ceramic tile cladding technology provides for pre-installation plaster mesh. To do this over the entire area or only in those places where there are recesses, you need to navigate according to the situation. To align the corners, it is better to use a plaster corner with a grid.

• In any case, the mesh will improve the adhesion of the mortar to the base base and make the cladding more durable. If the walls are very uneven, in order to bring their surface into a single plane, beacons must be installed before plastering. How to do it right, you can easily understand by watching the video. After the walls are leveled, tiling becomes, as they say, a matter of technique.
• The main thing to pay attention to is the thickness of the adhesive layer. It must be at least 7 mm and must not exceed 15 mm. Minimum and maximum thickness is set building codes. The fact is that when facing, especially in hot weather, water from the solution is actively absorbed by the heated surface of the walls.

Note! The thinner the layer of glue, the faster it loses moisture, which means that the strength of the screed will decrease. As a result, the tiles will peel off the walls - if not immediately, then in the near future. Therefore, surfaces heated by the sun are not subject to facing.

• Excessive thickness of the adhesive layer also contributes to the loss of tiles. In this case, the reason lies in the shrinkage deformation of the solution. That is why, when facing tiles, they are not mounted closely, but leave horizontal and vertical seams. Their uniformity is ensured by installing crosses between the tiles.
• The permissible width of the joints is also regulated by the norms and depends on the format and thickness of the tile. The horizontality of the seams is ensured by mounting a wooden plank or a metal corner along the lower perimeter of the wall. After all, the facing is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the corners, and the starting bar serves as a support for the first row of tiles.
• If the wall is long, it is quite difficult to ensure the horizontality of the remaining rows by eye. For reference, experts use a mooring cord. The verticality of the rows is controlled by a plumb line.

It is not necessary to wet the tile before sticking. A solution is applied to it with a notched trowel, leveled and pressed to the base. The position of the tile in the cladding is corrected by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet, and the excess mortar is removed.

Then, without waiting for the mortar to harden, a selection is made from the tile joints using curved jointing. Subsequently, these recesses will be filled with grout.

Wall tiling requires certain knowledge and a special tool, there is an opinion that this type of work can be performed by anyone, but this is not so. There are many technologies and nuances that are inaccessible to an ordinary master, using and following which a professional will perform installation in accordance with a single SNiP standard.

Do not forget that the installation of a ceramic “shirt” is the final stage of improvement, a kind of face of the room. Therefore, it should not only be a practical element of decor, but also perform protective, water-repellent, fire-retardant functions. The main part of the work remains invisible, but the quality of the finish depends on them.

Cost of wall tiling

By ordering cladding from the San-Sanych company, you can not only save on the purchase of material, but also receive highly qualified services for affordable price. Thanks to a variety of constructive, stylistic forms, modern ceramics can be laid in the bedroom, living room, kitchen, bathroom. It all depends on the main goal, as well as the financial capabilities of the customer.

Name of works	Unit rev.	Price per one.
Wall cladding with ceramic tiles standard sizes with grouting, on the finished base	m2	633 rub.
Wall cladding with ceramic tiles custom size with grouting, on the finished base	m2.	782 rub.
Wall cladding with brick, stone tiles on a prepared surface	m2	748 rub.
Facing slopes, pillars, semi-columns with ceramic tiles	m.p.	748 rub.
Wall cladding with porcelain stoneware over non-standard sizes	m2	978 rub.
Wall cladding with marble slabs	m2	1093 rub.
Installation of a panel of tiles, porcelain stoneware	m2	1001 rub.
Installation of a mosaic panel	m2	1783 rub.
Installation of curb, plinth, corner, facade, window tiles	m.p.	127 rub.
Floor cladding with ceramic tiles with grouting, on the finished base	m2	610 rub.
Floor cladding with porcelain stoneware, with grouting, on the finished base	m2	748 rub.
Laying tiles with an ornament	m2	679 rub.
Facing steps with tiles, porcelain stoneware	m2	771 rub.
Wall, floor cladding mosaic tiles, from	m2	978 rub.
Installing corners	PCS.	58 rub.
Inspection hatch door device	m2	1093 rub.

The surfaces in the apartment, finished with ceramic material, are practical, durable, unpretentious in care. An extensive color palette allows you to select the cladding for a specific purpose of the room.

The total cost of wall cladding with ceramic tiles consists of:

• Market price, dimensions.
• The cost of consumables.

It must be understood that Finishing work using small, as well as extra-class tiles, will cost more, as the time for the provision of services increases and the risk of damages increases if individual elements of the material are deformed or damaged.

When ordering services for the comprehensive improvement of the premises, you can get a discount on the footage of work.

The article contains information about facing tiles for the facade of a house: the advantages and disadvantages of each type of this material, and also considers the technology of facing the facade with tiles.

Source is.everaoh.com

Requirements for facade tiles

Let's start with the requirements, because the facade is subjected to all known natural loads, the totality of which can not withstand any finish.

High moisture resistance. Humidity fluctuations in outdoor air are known, so the lining must calmly withstand the highest humidity: the main thing is not to absorb it.

High sustainability to chemical attack. Polluted air quickly destroys many Construction Materials. Facade tiles must withstand chemical attack.

High mechanical strength.

Easy cleaning, optimally - resistance to pollution.

Ease of installation.

Types of facade cladding

Tiles for the facade of the house are made from a variety of raw materials, using several manufacturing methods. We list the most popular types:

ceramic tile;

porcelain stoneware;

clinker;

terracotta;

tile from agglomerate;

concrete.

Let's consider each type separately.

Source otdelka-rykami.ru

Ceramic facade

Ceramic tile, aka tile, a material known for its diversity decorative design and high moisture resistance. More often it is used for interior decoration, but there is also a facade variety among them. It differs from the usual high rate of frost resistance. Because an ordinary tile laid on the street cracks in the cold already in the first year of operation.

According to other characteristics, this finishing material practically does not differ from ordinary tiles. It just needs to be noted that manufacturers do not offer the widest range in terms of decorative design. More often it is an imitation of brick, stone, plain tiles of soft colors.

Source otdelka-expert.ru

Porcelain stoneware

In fact, this is still the same ceramic tile, but with higher strength and other characteristics. Because the technology of its production is not only firing at a temperature above +1000C, but also the preliminary molding of products by pressing under high pressure(400-500 kg/cm²). It is the last operation that gives porcelain stoneware special strength.

Initially, this material was intended for finishing floors that are subjected to high loads. Over time, the approach to it has changed. Designers and architects began to offer cladding from this material. Moreover, it perfectly copes with any natural loads. True, it should be noted that porcelain stoneware must be laid on special adhesives designed specifically for this material.

Source aliansgk.ru

Clinker

Clinker tiles for exterior finish facade of the house is one of the most amazing and beautiful materials. It is made, like ceramics with porcelain stoneware, from clay. Only here it is not white clay mixed with kaolin that is used, but shale. At the same time, the production technology is based on the extrusion method, when the finished clay mass is passed under pressure through a gap that forms a tape. It is subsequently cut into tiles and fired at a temperature of +1300C.

In addition, it should be noted that clinker tiles are a structure of small pores, hence the high moisture-proof characteristics of the finishing material and cracking resistance, especially in winter frosts. In terms of frost resistance, clinker is much superior to durable porcelain stoneware.

Source yastroyu.ru

It should be noted that today manufacturers offer clinker tiles assembled in panels. Models with a heater are offered. They are called thermal panels. A convenient option, assembled on a frame or on special dowels. Paneling is done quickly and easily, and there is no need to think about how to insulate the house from the outside. Everything is already included in the package for the facade cladding.

Agglomerate tiles

Agglomerate is nothing but fake diamond. These are granules of stone rocks, which are interconnected by cement or polyester resins. Manufacturers, in order to give the stone an unusual texture, add various components to the raw mixture: metal shavings, shell rock, glass of different colors, synthetic-based pigments. Hence the huge variety of designs.

To finish the facades, tiles are used, in which a reinforcing mesh is laid during production - this increases the strength of the product several times. At the same time, it should be noted that the agglomerate, in terms of its filling with rocks, is close to the natural stone, because this concentration is in the range of 80-95%. For example, in Corian or any other composite, this value does not exceed 70%.

More often, agglomerate is used for the production of household and interior products: window sills, countertops, pilasters, railings, columns, etc. Recently, manufacturers have begun to offer agglomerate tiles for facing the house outside. An excellent material that is not inferior in its technical characteristics to any similar type of cladding.

Source otdelka-rykami.ru

Terracotta tiles

A distinctive feature of this facing material is that dyes and pigments are not added to it. It is kaolin clay shaped into tiles and fired at different temperatures. The higher the temperature, the darker the color.

It should be noted that terracotta tiles are hygroscopic material, that is, it absorbs moisture. Therefore, it is recommended to use it for finishing facades located under a wide cornice or under a canopy. The main thing is that atmospheric precipitation does not fall on it.

Source otdelka-rykami.ru

On our website you can find the most . In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Concrete facade tiles

This type of cladding is not as popular as the previous ones. It's all about the material itself. Concrete products are heavy. Under them, you have to fill in a good large foundation, which leads to material costs. If dry installation technology is used for installation, then a powerful frame is assembled under the tile. Again, this is a financial cost.

Although it should be noted that the variety of sizes, textures and colors is quite large. And here this material is not inferior to others.

Source obustroeno.com

Polymer sand

it artificial material, which includes sand, polymer and dyes. All components are mixed with each other in certain proportions. Then the finished mass is fed into the mold, where the mixture is compressed under high pressure. In this case, the press piston is heated to a high temperature.

Under the influence of temperature, the polymer is melted and sintered with sand. That is, he acts as a liaison. The pressure of the press creates the strength of the resulting material. Of all the tiles offered, polymer sand is the cheapest.

Source soyuzantiseptik.ru

House facade cladding technology

Finishing the house with tiles is carried out according to two different technologies: wet and dry. Let's consider each separately. But we immediately indicate that, regardless of the method of laying the cladding, the surface of the facade wall must be prepared:

are repairing,

align,

strengthen primer solutions.

Wet veneer

It is called so only because the tile is “planted” on an aqueous adhesive composition: cement, polymer or resin-based. But in any case, it is a solution mixed with water. Please note that special adhesives are used to work with facades. They are frost resistant.

The very technology of tiling a house is no different from laying tiles in a bathroom or kitchen. That is, on the prepared surface, starting from the bottom, tiles are laid with gaps that are formed by plastic crosses.

Video description

We invite you to watch the video wet way wall cladding with clinker tiles:

Dry cladding

This is a more complex technology called wireframe. That is, on the facade, a frame is first assembled from galvanized metal profiles, on which the tile itself is mounted. Such facades are called ventilated, because between finishing material and the wall of the building remains a gap that is not closed. That is, the air in it moves without problems. This is how the facade is ventilated.

This gap is often filled heat-insulating material creating insulation on the outside. What are polystyrene boards used for? mineral wool. The insulation in this case is attached to the wall with special mushroom-shaped plastic dowels. You can see them well in the photo below.

Source fasadproekt.com

The most important operation is the assembly of the frame. There are ready-made frame structures for a certain cladding material, which include brackets in the form of a corner and guides. How is the installation of the frame.

Produce first markup on the wall.

Along drawn lines define bracket mounting locations.

them by these points mount with anchors.

Spend warming walls, for which, at the points of coincidence with the brackets in the insulation, cuts are made with a knife. Please note that holes cannot be made. Thermal insulation boards are laid tightly to each other. Even the smallest cracks or gaps cannot be left.

Spend fastening heat-insulating plates with mushroom-shaped dowels - two per plate.

The frame is ready, it remains only to install the tiles for facing the facade of the house. For this, clamps are used. Install the first lower row of fasteners on the rails at the same level horizontally. One tile is inserted into them, two more clamps are applied on top, which, like the lower ones, are attached to the guides with metal screws. Such a mount is very reliable, not weaker cement mortar. In addition, this type of fastener makes it easy to dismantle the tile without breaking, if such a need arises.

Video description

The video tells how to dry-facing the facade with porcelain stoneware:

Conclusion on the topic

So, we have told you about all facade tiles. The variety is wide enough to choose from. In addition, in each model range there are a large number of products, different in color, size and shape. So go ahead, choose. But be sure to consult with the masters how to mount the cladding. That it was inexpensive, but with a guarantee of long-term operation.

For many years, wall cladding with ceramic tiles has been a traditional option for interior decoration. In particular, this solution is the most popular for the kitchen, bathroom or bathroom. The tile gained its recognition due to its resistance to moisture, and besides, it is not picky in care. Tiles are fairly easy to clean high level strength and does not conduct electricity. In addition, ceramics is an environmentally friendly material.

The choice of tiles for wall cladding

To date, the variety of tiles is quite large. A large assortment of types, shapes, colors and shades is simply misleading. But let's look at the main criteria for choosing a tile. It is enough to follow a few simple rules:

• If the room is not large, then a good option would be to choose a light tile. Since this will give the effect of increasing the room, and also make it brighter.
• Note that the tiles intended for walls are somewhat thinner than the material for flooring.
• High-quality tiles should be of regular geometric shapes. And the quality in this regard is easy to check. Take several tiles from the same package and place them next to each other. If their size does not match, then you do not have quality material.
• Each seller must have a quality certificate for the products that he sells. Ask him to present.
• If you buy several boxes of tiles, be sure to check the color in each package, it must be completely identical.
• Ask the seller what glue to buy for this type of facing material. Since each tile has a different adhesive, depending on the type of material, size and weight.

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles: surface preparation

The quality of work will depend directly on how smooth the walls are. That is why first you need to check the surface of the walls for irregularities. To perform this task, a plumb line or a building level is well suited. We apply it to the wall, and all the flaws immediately become visible.

We also note that cladding on curved walls will lead to significant costs of tile adhesive. It will be much cheaper to pre-putty or plaster to level the surface.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that it is quite difficult to equip tiles on a large layer of glue, and this will undoubtedly have a detrimental effect on the result of the work. Ultimately, it’s not enough that you have to hold each tile for 10-20 minutes, but in the end, the tile may simply fall off soon.

As already mentioned, tile laying is carried out on a previously leveled surface. Alignment can be done in several ways:

• Surface plastering.

Considering the option of plastering, it should be noted that the work will require some skill. In addition, the process itself takes a long time, and at least three weeks will pass from the moment preparations begin until the laying begins.

Surface plastering technology

The work is carried out in several stages:

• First of all, you need to install beacons.
• After that, the solution for plastering is prepared.
• The third step is the application of the solution.
• And final stage– alignment using a level or a rule.

GKL installation technology

Considering the second alignment option, it should be noted that it is somewhat simpler, but much faster. You can install drywall sheets in one day. In addition, the very next day you can begin work on wall cladding with ceramic tiles. As you can see, the time savings are enormous. At the same time, we note that special skills for the work will not be required.

The process itself is carried out as follows:

1. Initially, the walls are primed. It should be noted that a deep penetration composition is used.
2. Next, tile adhesive is applied to the drywall sheet (around the perimeter and in the center).
3. The sheet is pressed against the wall and aligned with the rule. Then it is checked by the building level.
4. Next, a full fixing with dowels is carried out. If necessary, adjust the position of the sheet.
5. After that, the GKL is primed for the best adhesion of the glue and the drywall itself.

Wall cladding technology with ceramic tiles

Preparatory work

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles should be carried out on a flat base, respectively, we figured out the alignment options.

Before starting work, if you do not yet have sufficient experience in their implementation, read the literature on doing wall tiling with your own hands.

As part of preparatory work, it is necessary to check the integrity of the base. If there is damage, they must be repaired. Then calculate the consumption of tiles and purchase the required amount.

How to divide a tile into parts?

When carrying out work, sometimes you may not need a whole tile, but a certain piece of it. Therefore, it is necessary to know how to divide the tile into parts. And this is done as follows:

• It is necessary to measure and mark the line along which you will separate the tiles
• Then attach a ruler in the line and draw a glass cutter along the line, while pressing hard on it
• Then turn the tile on the back side and tap it a little

somewhat more convenient and quick option will use a special cutter. If you have one, then you are lucky, and the work will be somewhat faster and easier. If not, then buying it for the sake of one room is not worth it. Its price is quite decent, and in the absence of the need to constantly cut tiles in in large numbers to acquire such a device would be irrational.

Also, if you need to do round holes in the rosette tile, you can use the ballerina cutter attachment. In addition, cutouts can be made in the same way as in the case of separation, using a glass cutter.

Laying tiles on cement mortar

The first way of laying tiles, and the oldest, is the arrangement on cement mortar. Technological process as follows:

• To begin with, you need to hang a plumb line on the wall, mark it and install beacons by which we will mark the coverage levels.
• Next, on the edges of the walls, it is necessary to fix plumb slats up to 2 meters long, further to these slats there will be a guide thread that will determine the level of the tile. Those. a kind of beacon, on which we will carry out all the work.
• Before starting work, the tile must be moistened, which will lead to a stronger adhesion of the material with the adhesive.
• Then we apply a solution to the tile, and press it against the wall. It should be noted that it is necessary that the tile touches the beacon (i.e. the equipped thread / lace). After that, it is necessary to knock on the tile for its uniform laying. To do this, use a rubber mallet.
• For arranging even seams, special crosses are used. Between each tile, depending on its size, at least two pieces are inserted, not far from the tops of the tile. After the solution dries, the crosses are removed.
• After completion of work, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the mortar from the tile, and also wipe it.
• Further, after drying, grouting is carried out (we will consider its technology a little later).

Thus, the walls are lined with ceramic tiles on cement mortar.

Laying tiles with glue

Also, in addition to using cement mortar, tiles can be equipped with PVA-mastic, or special tile adhesive. The technology of work is very similar to the previous version, but there are some characteristic differences. Let's take a look at them.

• First of all, it is necessary to prime the surface. A primer is applied to the previously cleaned base with a layer of up to three millimeters.
• Before laying the first row, equip the guide rail by leveling it with a level. In the future, you should focus on the first row, while checking each subsequent level for the absence of deviations.
• Using a spatula, apply glue evenly on a flat surface and level it so that the layer is about 3-4 millimeters.
• Next, lean the tiles against the wall. You should also tap it lightly with a rubber mallet or wooden block, which will help to evenly distribute the mastic over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tile.
• If the glue protrudes beyond the seams, it must immediately be removed with a spatula, because, having dried, it will not provide such an opportunity and will somewhat spoil appearance tile covering. To arrange the seams, crosses are also provided between the tiles.
• After the glue dries, it is necessary to remove the crosses, and then the arrangement, putty and grouting are carried out.
• The last step is to clean the surface from debris, dirt and dust.

Note that when gluing tiles, there is no need to pre-wet it. At the same time, the seams are filled with special tabs for the duration of the work, which will help keep them in the required position and prevent them from slipping. In addition, constantly monitor the level of the tile. The slightest error at the bottom by 1 millimeter, reaching the top, will lead to surface distortion and the creation of a rather large slope, which will subsequently lead to flaking and falling off of the tile.

Grouting and jointing

After completing the tiling of the walls, it is necessary to allow the glue (or mortar, depending on the choice of method) to dry. Drying occurs during the day.

After drying, the crosses are removed and the seams are cleaned from excess mortar. Cleaning work is carried out with a spatula. Next, grouting is carried out, for which a gypsum mortar is used. It should be noted that this gypsum grout is commercially available in several color variations. Therefore, it can be matched directly to the color of the tile.

Note that grouting compounds floor tiles not suitable, because they are based on sand and cement, which does not allow you to choose the desired color.

The grouting solution itself is diluted with water in a shallow container, after which it is applied using rubber spatula. Then it is pressed against the seam, since it is necessary to ensure the maximum level of penetration, which will determine the reliability of the fixation. Then the excess material is removed with a damp sponge.

Two hours after the lining, or rather its completion, the tiles are washed in order to remove grout residues. It is carried out with the help warm water and rags. We also invite you to see how the walls are tiled with ceramic tiles in the video: