What ceiling to make in the corridor. What kind of ceiling to make in the hallway: finishing options, whitewashing and painting, decorative plastering, plasterboard, plastic and stretch coatings. Creating slatted ceilings in corridors

Given the high cost quality material need to produce accurate calculations consumption for a given area. In order to determine how much, including borders and decorative inserts, you need to know the answers to some questions in advance. You must decide in what color scheme and style the masonry will be done. What type of styling will be used.

What are the types of tiling

Depending on the surface, the type of masonry varies. So, for the floor and walls, different approaches are used. The floor is most often laid with a simple classical method. It's called seam to seam. If you want to create original patterns, you can use decorative masonry, for example, staggered or diagonally.

These types are more suitable for original tiles with a pattern or imitation of parquet. Diagonal styling, in turn, is divided into simple, where the angle is 45 degrees and checkerboard.

The latter looks good when alternating colors.

Several types of masonry are also used for walls.

1. The first is the classic straight line. In this case, the tile is laid parallel to the floor covering. If there are borders, then they can be interspersed with rows of wide tiles.
2. The second option is diagonal. It does not differ from the laying method floor tiles.
3. For walls, chessboard masonry is also allowed. It can be performed in a horizontal direction or with a diagonal offset.

It is necessary to decide on the type of installation, style design of the room before purchasing materials. The tile directly depends on this. The presence of borders, color inserts, diagonal solutions increase the overall consumption.

How is the calculation made?

As in any kind of work, to count tiles have their general rules. They are used to calculate the volume of materials in any room, no matter if it is for tiles.

1. Take measurements of all walls and floors where masonry will be done.
2. On the wall where there are openings or a bath () should be installed, subtract their size.
3. Find out the dimensions of the tile you will be buying. For floor covering and the walls it is different. standard sizes 30x30, 40x40 are considered; for walls, rectangular tiles with sides of 20x30 or 25x33 centimeters can be offered.
4. Calculate the resulting area in . And determine how many plates in pieces you need.

Add 10% to the resulting value. This figure will cover possible scrap and material that will require cutting. Material calculation different colors produced separately. It is determined in advance at what height the transitions will be. To automate the process, you can use online calculators.

Calculation example for floor and wall tiles

The easiest way to understand these rules is to calculate. Let's say the width of the floor is 1.5 meters, the length is 1.7 meters. The tile is used square 33 cm side. The entire surface is laid with a single-color material. To determine how many slabs you need in width, divide 1.5 by 0.33. The result will be 4.5 - the number of tiles that will fit in the width. This figure needs to be rounded up and add a margin of several pieces. A similar calculation is made for length. It will be 6 tiles. After that, we multiply 5 by and we get that 30 pieces + a margin of 10% are required for the floor.

In the case of calculating tiles on walls, similar calculations are made. For each wall, the amount of plastic in height and width is determined separately. The resulting number is multiplied. If there is a division of tiles by color, then you can decide in advance how many rows in height one shade will occupy, and how many another. Then the final figure is divided by 2.

Don't forget to take into account. It reduces the number of tiles used. A similar rule applies to the bathroom, if it is not supposed to have tiles behind it.

At the end of the calculations, it is necessary to determine the amount. It is determined based on their 12 tile perimeter divided by the area and multiplied by the thickness. The resulting value is multiplied by the coefficient and the width of the seam. The result indicates the mass of grout per 1 sq. surface meter.

Preparing a wall for laying tiles is the topic of the previous part of this article, in which we described in detail this process. This chapter will describe the laying of tiles on the wall, a video with the process of which you will also find here. An example is the same bathroom that was mentioned earlier.

As we already wrote, at this stage, the preparation of the walls for laying tiles is 95% complete, and to complete it, you must wait for the plaster to dry completely. Usually it takes up to 7 days, but do not forget that each manufacturer has its own parameters and requirements, so each instruction must be studied without fail.

Surface work

The first step is to clean the entire surface of the walls with an ordinary spatula. Thus, we remove unnecessary growths and small fragile particles that will crumble in the form of gypsum chips. Special attention give the corners of the room.

The next step is to apply a primer. In our case, a deep penetration composition from Lakra was purchased, which contains additives to combat mold. This soil belongs to the budget class and the average price for 10 kg fluctuates around 400 rubles. From total weight it does not stand out in anything special and is quite well suited for a plaster surface.

This stage is mandatory, as we will give the wall additional antimicrobial properties, bind dust and increase adhesion, which will improve the quality of the adhesion of the tile to the wall.

The procedure will not take much time. The primer is applied with a brush or roller, while making sure that it covers the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall and literally flows down the wall - this way the plaster will soak much better.

Tile layout

While we are waiting for the soil to dry, we can take the time to distribute the tiles. If you still have not decided on the size of the tile, then now is the time to deal with this issue.

All that needs to be done is to accurately measure all the walls and calculate the optimal width of the future tile in order to avoid large waste when cutting. Pay special attention to the wall doorway, since above it you will have to bring the two sides together, we will describe in more detail below.

The following diagrams show the types of laying tiles on the wall:

Laying tiles on the walls - pretty milestone, which will determine the further appearance of your bathroom.

She happens three types(diagonal masonry is not considered in this article):

• When laying out from the edge of the wall, the first tile is installed in a corner with an indent of about 5 mm. All cuts are made on the opposite edge of the wall, so a symmetrical seam pattern will not work. It makes sense to use this scheme only when the cut of the finishing tile does not exceed half of its full size, otherwise the appearance of the masonry will suffer greatly. For many masters, this method is the most convenient and preferred.
• The second method is the definition of the central seam. To do this, we calculate the middle of the wall and lay the tiles from it simultaneously in two directions. The result will be a symmetrical distribution with trimming tiles on both sides, which will take you a little more time.
• And finally last way layouts are the centering of the tile itself. We also find the middle of the wall, but now we shift the seam in relation to the center by half the length of the tile. In other words, the middle of the tile must match the received label. This distribution resembles the previous version, with the difference that the seam will be shifted by half the tile.

The last two methods are the most correct, but most likely you will get increased material consumption. So, if it’s not a problem for you to buy a couple of squares of tiles, then use them. Deciding between them, choose the one in which the cuts from the finishing tiles will be minimal, which depends on the length of the wall and the tile itself.

Additional Consumables

What else do you need to buy before starting installation? The most important material is tile adhesive, as all the strength of the surface depends on it. Which of the options presented in stores is worth buying, or is it better to make the mixture yourself using cement, sand and plasticizers?

Independent production of the solution is beneficial only with large volumes of masonry. Also, do not forget that inaccuracies in the recipe can worsen the properties of the resulting mixture. Therefore, for small spaces, such as the bathroom in question, it is better to buy a ready-made solution.

The photo above shows two options for tile adhesive (SR and Ivsil), both of which are produced in Russia and are easy to find on store shelves in almost any city. The products of these companies are distinguished by good quality and reliability, which has been repeatedly tested experimentally.

Of the advertised brands, recently, Unis glue began to lose ground, which was purchased for this object. More precisely, I did not like the low elasticity, which made it difficult to adjust the position of the tiles already on the wall. There are no complaints about the strength of the hitch.

The worst mixture that the author has ever worked with is the products of the Bolars company. It seems that the manufacturer uses heavy river sand, as the mixture precipitates and does not stretch well over the tile. We are generally silent about elasticity - the tile is glued tightly without the possibility of further amendments. And if you still pull, then it will simply peel off - and this despite the fact that the surface is well primed.

The next item will consider tile leveling systems. The simplest and most common are crosses and wedges, the price of which will not burden any wallet in any way.

The edges of the crosses should not contain marriage in the casting, and the presence of differences in the thickness of the blades will make you sweat when leveling the seam. Therefore, we recommend manufacturers such as Zubr and Stayer, since their products, at the same cost, are much better than other analogues.

To get the perfect result, use the SVP wedge-clamp leveling system, the principle of which is clearly shown in the photo above. It is a more expensive solution, since in addition to the price, the expense also increases - after all, four elements are installed on one crosshair.

Using a wedge, it is easy to pull up the sagging tile and set it in the same plane with the rest. This will allow you to do all the work with your own hands, no worse than an experienced craftsman. Best of all, SVP is used when laying expensive tiles, the evenness and dimensions of which do not give errors.

If it becomes necessary to start laying not from the bottom rows, then buy several metal guide profiles with a section of 27 by 28, which are used when mounting the frame for drywall. Of these, we will make an emphasis under the tile, which will greatly facilitate the task.

We start finishing

During the time we got everything we needed, the primer dried up and now the wall is completely ready for tile installation. Since everything remains unchanged behind the bathroom, the first thing we do is set our profile. Of course, the bathroom itself can be used for these purposes, but in our case, its edges turned out to be rounded, which is why the starting seam had to be lowered by 2 cm.

For ease of fixing, use self-tapping screws with a press washer for wood, they hold well in plaster and press the profile tightly against the wall. Follow the level strictly, as this will greatly facilitate your task in the future.

We attach a double profile to the back of the bathtub. Part of it, which is shown in the photo, is fixed with dowel screws, as it will later become the basis for a shelf for shampoos and other small things.

Wall marking

In order for the seams between the tiles to converge on all walls, it is necessary to perform the correct marking. For this purpose, it is not recommended to use the building level, as it can give a good error. It is best to use a laser or water level. The last method will give the most accurate result, but its complexity lies in the fact that it will not be possible to make markup alone.

We put marks in the corners of the room that need to be connected to each other. You can use a dyeing cord, but the most reliable way is to drive the dowels into the marks and pull the nylon thread tightly.

Advice! If the length of your wall exceeds 3-4 meters, then when pulling the thread, drive in an additional dowel in the middle to avoid sagging.

In our case, due to the fact that the room was very small, we relied on our own eye and did not use more accurate tools than the usual level (highly not recommended for beginners).

The process of laying tiles

Installation starts with correct installation the first row - it is he who will determine the subsequent evenness of the plane. At the site being renovated, we settled on laying the tiles from the edge of the wall, as this was the most economical solution, and the cut of the finish tiles was not very large.

Advice! When preparing the glue, make sure that it is not too thick or too liquid. In the first case, it will be more difficult for you to stretch it over the surface, and in the second case, it will drain.

So:

• We apply glue on a tile or on a wall - as it is more convenient for someone. We install the first tile in a predetermined place, and lightly slap it with the palm of our hand to press down the glue a little - this will create a better grip.
• Now you need to align the planes of the tiles and plaster. To do this, we take the rule, and apply it to the surface of the tile, first horizontally, and then vertically. Make sure that the distance from the rule to the plaster does not change - if necessary, press or pull the desired edge. You no longer have to worry about the level, this should have been taken into account at the stage of leveling the wall.
• After, we set the level of the horizontal seam(with a stretched thread, we focus on it). To do this, we use wedges that must be slipped under both edges of the tile, achieving the desired result. We set the gap between the tile and the profile in the region of 3 mm so that there is room for adjustment.
• We repeat the manipulations described in the second paragraph of this list., correcting possible misalignments when aligning the seam. If everything is done correctly, then you have guaranteed yourself a flat plane of the future wall.
• The next tile is placed strictly according to the first, for this we apply a rule or something even, in our case it is the lower part, all of the same level. Carefully watch the corners of the tile - they should not bulge or sink. In a similar way, the first tile of each next row is aligned. An example can be seen in the next photo.

• The second and subsequent tiles of the upper rows are aligned strictly at three corners formed by the already laid tiles. First of all, the second tile is installed, since it is a difficult task to accurately slip the cross from the corner.
• To maintain the seam, crosses are inserted between the tiles. In our case, their thickness is 2 mm - this is not much, and makes it possible to correct the irregularities of the tile itself. If your tile is of low grades, then the difference in its size can reach 1-2 mm, therefore, it is best to pre-sort the tile, sending the rejected one for cutting. Wedges are also used for intermediate adjustments.
• Please note that crosses, like tiles, have a bevel on their edges. Therefore, make sure that they are installed strictly with a bevel to the tile. Embed them to the same depth, otherwise you risk that the seams will “float”, that is, they will begin to converge, or, on the contrary, diverge.

After the first wall is completely laid out, we move on to two adjacent ones, but first apply the level rule to the resulting plane, and evaluate the deviations from the vertical. If the level ran away, then you will have a new difficulty - this is the corner seam crossing.

It is eliminated by applying a layout on adjacent walls, in which the extreme tile in this corner will be cut. But everything is fine with us, and we are moving along the intended path.

We completely repeat the procedure for installing the first row, additionally focusing on the seams of the first wall. All further procedure is completely identical.

The main problem at this stage is the exact angle, so check each row and adjust the position with the wedges. Minor flaws will easily hide from the eyes of the subsequent grout. Correct Angle as follows.

Now, after we have finished bypassing the bath, we can lower the first row closer to the floor, but first we will assemble the already mentioned shelf. Detailed Description We will not give the process, we will limit ourselves to only a few photographs.

Now, having measured the desired distance, move the stops down. bottom row the tile will be cut to the level of the floor, so at this stage it will not be placed. We report the side walls and move on to the most difficult - the finish. The main snag is the reduction of horizontal seams above the doorway, but if the markup is done correctly, then it won’t take you much time, just pull a nylon thread between them.

It is best to start laying from both sides at the same time, and keep it strictly in parallel, which will allow you to check each row and, if necessary, make corrections.

“But how do I calculate the length of undercuts?” you say, and this is the right question. Most often in these places, tilers use the following technique. On both sides, the row starts with a whole tile. To avoid very narrow inserts in the middle of the masonry, all trimmings are made above the door, for which you need to make a preliminary calculation. If the dimensions of the wall and tiles do not match in the right way, then you still have to additionally cut the starting tile.

In our case, the extra distance was 6 cm, so we had to remove two centimeters from three rows of tiles. The result can be seen in the photo above. All cut edges are ground with a regular grindstone. Note that wood screws screwed into the draft part of the door frame are used as a stop.

Now let's say a few words about the tool with which the tile was cut. In our work, we use the Matrix tile cutter from the Professional series. It was bought even before the fall of the ruble for 3000. It copes well with almost any tile, with the exception of porcelain stoneware.

For cutting complex shapes and holes, we use a Makita grinder and an electric drill with diamond nozzles.

Floor laying and grouting

The next step is to lay the floor tiles. Do not forget that the adhesive layer should not exceed 2 cm, with large differences, you will have to pre-level the base with a self-leveling floor.

We start by doing a preliminary layout right on the floor, determining the most beautiful arrangement of the tiles. After that, you can start laying.

The process of laying the floor is a pleasant experience if the base is perfectly flat. We also have to regularly raise the tiles, and put glue in places of subsidence. Carefully monitor the seams, level and evenness of the plane.

After the floor has dried (the first walk is possible after one day), we report the remaining tiles to the walls, and proceed to clean the joints.

Now you need to clean all the seams from the squeezed out glue and crosses, for which it is best to use a mounting knife. After we pass all the walls with a clean, dry sponge to remove any remaining dust.

Next, you can start grouting. Great for this rubber spatula, which repeats the shape of the tile. After the grout dries slightly, it is necessary to wash off its excess with a damp sponge. Carry out these works in latex gloves to protect the skin of the hands from corrosion. Below are some photos of the room after grouting.

Now let's make a short summary. Laying tiles on the walls of a kitchen or any other room will not differ in any way from the method discussed above.

The only thing we haven't touched is installation. outside corners under the tile, as we did not have to install them on this site. Look for the information you need on our website, watch the video in this article, try your hand, and you will definitely succeed.

489 02.10.2019 8 min.

Every year the number of finishing materials in the construction market increases. However, for the bathroom, the choice is still limited. For decades, among all moisture-resistant finishing materials, tile has firmly held the palm. But we must pay tribute to the manufacturers who are doing everything possible to expand the range. The variety of textures, colors, sizes and shapes of tiles strikes the imagination of any consumer. It’s just that “eyes run wide” from such magnificence of samples from different manufacturers. That is why it is so difficult for the buyer to decide on the choice of bathroom tiles. Yes, and sometimes it causes difficulties not only in terms of technology, but also design, as well as choosing the most appropriate method. This article is intended to facilitate the task of the consumer.

Features of choice and masonry

When choosing a tile, you should pay attention to such indicators as:

• Strength class. There are 5 classes of products that are characterized by the level of wear resistance. The most durable and resistant to stress is the tile of the fifth class. It can be laid even in places where there is a large load on the floor. For home use, you should not purchase samples of the highest strength class. A tile of 1-2 classes is suitable, since the load on it will be minimal.
• Modern is practical polymer material for interior decoration of any premises. This cover is made of vinyl chloride based plastic. The latter endows the material with resistance to most chemicals. detergents, acids, alkalis.

• The degree of moisture absorption. Moisture resistance - very important indicator for tiles: after all, the bathroom is almost always humid. It is marked with an alphanumeric combination: Roman numerals indicate the moisture absorption class (from I to IV), and the letters indicate the method of manufacturing tiles (a - extrusion method, b - pressing method). For bathrooms, it is advisable to purchase tiles Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb. Products with a lower moisture absorption class are not suitable for bathrooms.
• Tile size. Modern manufacturers produce multi-format tiles. The choice of size depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and on the design of the bathroom. So, for small rooms, you should prefer a small tile of light shades.
• Tile shape. Traditional designs are square or rectangular in shape. But today you can find complex configurations of tiles produced by large foreign manufacturers. Working with such tiles is also very difficult, but polygonal tiles allow you to create spectacular compositions.

• Color. As for the color scheme, here the choice is simply huge. There are plain samples of different colors, as well as tiles with ornaments and prints. The choice depends on the design and style of decoration, the color of plumbing and furniture. AT last years the range of decorative elements for tiles has expanded: borders,.
• Relief. In addition to tiles with a smooth surface, manufacturers also offer embossed products. This tile is best used for the floor, as it has an anti-slip coating.

The cost of high-quality tiles is quite high, so you should not buy material "by eye". You need to accurately calculate the right amount, and then go to the store for a purchase. It is better to take a few tiles in reserve, so that later you do not run around the outlets in search of products from the same batch.

To maintain the style in the bathroom, you can use.

Granite has several varieties. used in the interior of modern offices, for facing floors, stairs, building facades.

Types of bathroom tiles

If earlier the varieties of bathroom tiles were limited to two or three items, today their diversity allows you to show your design abilities to the fullest. A wide variety of ceramics can be found in the Tesser network of salons.

The most famous types of tiles:

• cottoforte;
• metlakh tiles (majolica);
• cotto;
• clinker;
• porous tiles;
• mosaic.

Italian and Spanish designs

The largest tile manufacturers in Europe are Italy and Spain. In the construction market, both countries, represented by different manufacturers, are equally popular among buyers. At the same time, each of the countries proclaims itself the best in the field of manufacturing high-quality samples.

There are even entire associations of manufacturers that annually spend a lot of money to promote their products on the world market. For example, the Italian association issues special editions, where it describes all the advantages of Italian tiles. Spanish associations, in turn, arrange workshops for designers to promote their products.

It is impossible to say unequivocally which tile should be preferred. The main differences between Italian and Spanish tiles are determined by two indicators: price and appearance.

Italian manufacturers (, Ragno, Vallelunga Ceramica, etc.) pay great attention fashion trends, cooperate with the most popular designers. That is why Italian collections look more stylish and elegant. In most cases, the samples are restrained in design, but elegant and sophisticated. There are many monochromatic functional solutions in the collections, for example, cement-effect tiles.

As for the Spanish designs (Bisazza, Porcelánico, etc.), they are created on the basis of bright contrasts, eye-catching design and the presence of many ornate patterns and original designs. The Spanish collections have a lot of decorative tiles that will brighten up any bathroom. This is probably why the Russian market is literally filled with Spanish tiles. Bright and saturated decors are closer to our consumer, who is pretty tired of gray and dull everyday life.

Inexpensive tiles from Polish manufacturers (Paradyz, Opoczno, Cersanit, etc.) attract consumers with an excellent price-quality ratio. In terms of technical performance, Polish ceramics are somewhat inferior to more eminent manufacturers, but the difference is insignificant and does not affect its properties in any way. But not only the cost of tiles determines the popularity of Polish products. The richness of colors and textures of bathroom tiles, high-quality pattern printing, accurate dimensions, reasonable cost - all this ensures the availability of tiles for almost every customer. Share of products of Polish manufacturers in the domestic market ceramic tiles is about 15%.

domestic production

Russia takes into account and improves international standards for the manufacture of ceramic tiles for the bathroom. Italy and Spain have always been recognized as trendsetters in the ceramic field. However, recently Russian enterprises have been purchasing innovative equipment, mastering advanced technologies, and developing their own methods for producing tiles. As a result, it is already able to withstand the toughest competition with foreign counterparts. Huge plus tiles Russian production It also lies in the fact that it costs at least two times cheaper than Italian-Spanish samples. The lower cost is obtained by deducting logistics and customs costs.

The modern design of domestic bathroom tiles is developed by leading experts. For a long time in the past, monotonous typical tiles. Each collection has not only background tiles, but also various types of decors. Different styles of collections (classic, modern, hi-tech, eco-style), a variety of colors and textures allow you to choose the most suitable samples for wall and floor cladding in the bathroom.

Among the well-known domestic manufacturers of ceramic tiles, Shakhtinskaya Tile, Volgograd Ceramic Plant, Cersanit-Russia, Nephrite-Keramika JSC stand out.

Materials and tools for laying tiles in the bathroom

To carry out work on laying tiles, the master will need the following materials and tools:

• samples of tiles and decorative elements;
• tile adhesive;
• sealant;
• measuring instruments;
• drill with a mixing nozzle;
• sponge;
• notched trowel;
• brush;
• tile cutter or grinder with a diamond blade;
• plastic crosses;
• trowel for grouting;

masonry process

So, the tile is selected and purchased. You should not immediately start laying: first you need to carefully prepare the surface for fixing the tiles. Take out all the furniture, turn off the water supply valves, dismantle the plumbing. If you do not plan to change the washbasin and toilet, then remove them very carefully so as not to damage them.

Preparatory stage

There are 3 types of walls in bathrooms: plastered, already tiled and painted over concrete. The most problematic are the latter, since in this case, fastening will be required to ensure reliable adhesion of walls and tiles. plaster mesh to the surface. But first, the walls should be cleaned of paint at least partially. You can do this with a perforator. In other cases, you just need to knock down the tiles or plaster from the walls.

The grid must be securely fixed to the surface with dowels. Use dowels with a cap that will hold the mesh.

Next, you need to ensure high-quality adhesion of the tile to the surface of the walls. Arm yourself with a spatula, prepare tile adhesive and apply it to the surface as if plastering. Glue must be pressed in so that it fills the holes. After the process is completed, leave the walls for a day to dry. After this time, you can start laying tiles in the bathroom.

Work technology

So, the tiles have already been purchased, the surface is ready, it's time to start laying the tiles. Carry out the work in the following order:

1. Attach a metal (wooden) rail horizontally to the wall, level. The first row of tiles will be mounted under it.
2. Prepare the adhesive solution. To do this, pour water into the container, and then pour in the dry polymer-cement mixture. Proportions should be indicated in the instructions. To get a homogeneous creamy mixture, use an electric drill with a nozzle that serves as a mixer.
3. Apply the adhesive to the wall surface in a thin layer using a notched trowel.
4. Start laying tiles from a row resting on a metal rail (it is removed after the glue has hardened).
5. In the corners and between the rows, fix plastic crosses that ensure the same thickness of the tile joints.
6. Press each tile against the wall so that excess adhesive protrudes from the seams.
7. Constantly check the evenness of the rows with a level.
8. Try to place whole tiles in noticeable corners so that cut fragments do not catch the eye.
9. After completing the tiling process, take a break for a day, during which the glue should dry completely. Then just start grouting the seams. To do this, pour the dry mixture into a container with water, mix thoroughly, leave for 10 minutes and mix well again. Fill the seams with a rubber spatula.

Hidden styling problems: video

Masonry options

Every year, masters surprise with interesting compositions that are obtained as a result of combinations different ways laying tiles. Let's consider the main ones.

Traditional option

This is the easiest way, performed according to the "seam to seam" pattern. This option provides for the direct direction of the rows, parallel to the geometric lines of the room. Rectangular and are suitable for its implementation. Material consumption is minimal, and simple installation is complemented by a combination with ornamental trim and all kinds of borders.

Laying tiles "in the dressing"

This method is similar to the usual brickwork. Rectangular tiles work best here. The laying method is simple. However, some nuances should be taken into account: you should not use two contrasting colors of tiles, as they will create the effect of an uneven floor. Lay the rows only horizontally, vertical masonry does not look good here.

Diagonal styling

The method is difficult for beginners. Another disadvantage is the high consumption of tiles and the laborious division of elements into parts. However, there are also advantages: thanks to diagonal lines, non-parallel walls are visually corrected, and a small room seems a little larger.

Chess

The method is a variation of the seam-to-seam installation using tiles of two different shades.

modular way

Laying tiles involves the use of three or more sizes of tiles, due to which an interesting and dynamic pattern is created. To implement the modular method, it is necessary to choose tiles of the same company with multiple sizes. This option requires a preliminary without gluing.

Linear option

The method involves the use of two or more shades of tiles, the same size. From a tile, you can create solid, intermittent, intersecting, parallel, symmetrical, broken or chaotic lines.

Ornament

Tiles installed in this way resemble a carpet with a geometric pattern or a beautiful colored border. You can also create a plain canvas with a bright pattern in the center.

The above methods can be combined with each other, obtaining extraordinary tiled compositions.

Cosmetic improvements

Tiled flooring can be decorated in simpler ways. The most elementary thing is to paint the canvas (or only part of it) with waterproof paint. The second option is to apply a bright pattern to the surface of the tile. Don't forget to thoroughly wash the tile before you start painting. It also does not hurt to clean off the glossy surface of the tile with sandpaper so that the paint fits well on the canvas.

An alternative solution for tile decor is special vinyl stickers that are perfectly attached to it and are easily washed off from it.

Video review of styling methods

conclusions

As you can see, being a traditional option for wall and floor decoration, it can turn a bathroom into a stylish, beautiful, cozy room. The simplest thing is to attract specialists for this. However, if you wish, you can do it yourself. And this article will tell you the answers to the questions that have arisen in the process of work.

The ceiling in the hallway is a kind of hallmark of the house. It is here that the first impression of the style preferences of the owners is created. Therefore, when planning repairs, it is advisable to pay due attention to the ceiling in the hallway.

Ceiling design options in the hallway

As in any other room, the ceiling in the hallway can be painted, whitewashed, pasted on it inexpensive tiles from polystyrene foam. All these options are profitable from a financial point of view, but few people are already satisfied with the aesthetic. Those who decide to stop at one of these finishes simply do not realize that more spectacular ways to decorate the ceiling can also be inexpensive and affordable.

Modern options for ceilings in the hallway:

• rack;
• from plastic panels;
• tension;
• suspended plasterboard;
• with decorative plaster;
• covered with plastic mirror tiles.

Distinctive features of suspended plasterboard ceiling

Plasterboard ceiling more than others requires financial costs and physical effort. These structures are mounted on the basis of a frame made of a metal profile, which is subsequently sheathed with plasterboard. At right choice The “drawing” of such a ceiling can visually enlarge, as a rule, a small hallway space.

If a plasterboard ceiling make a bunk, with a protruding niche around the perimeter and a curly recess in the middle, the room will seem higher. A small ledge on the ceiling, located at the opposite front door walls, can visually increase the width of the hallway.

The plasterboard ceiling is also good because it allows any finishing options - painting, tiling and wallpapering, applying decorative plaster. And the lighting built into the niches will help create a welcoming, cozy atmosphere in the hallway.

A classic single-level plasterboard ceiling is relatively easy to make, requiring at least two people and minimal knowledge of construction technologies. Detailed step by step instructions find in .

Distinctive features of a stretch ceiling

Device stretch ceiling not as expensive and troublesome as it might seem at first glance. For installation in small room will not require significant financial and time costs. All work can be done by hand, without inviting specialists. But for this you need competent detailed step-by-step instructions.

Prices for rack ceiling

rack ceiling

About efficiency and variety color solutions Stretch ceilings are known to all. Therefore, it will only be necessary to choose the film pattern that is in harmony with the interior design. Each manufacturer of stretch ceilings offers a catalog of samples. At each point of sale of stretch fabrics, designers work to help you choose the most impressive option for a particular room.

The installation of a stretch ceiling consists in fixing a lightweight, durable film or fabric made from high quality material in a framing structure that will keep the panel taut. Read more.

Distinctive features of the ceiling made of plastic panels

The ceiling made of plastic panels attracts, first of all, with its low price, modern appearance and ease of maintenance. To decorate the hallway, you will need a small number of panels and wooden blocks. The latter are needed for the device of the crate and serve as a support for finishing material.

Any owner who does not even have experience with this material can handle the assembly of plastic panels. Each panel is equipped with a protrusion on one side and a recess on the other, so the assembly is carried out according to the tenon-groove principle. Manufacturers offer a wide range of colors and patterns of this finishing material. Therefore, there will be no problems with choosing the material most suitable for the design of the hallway.

Video - Installation of panels on the ceiling and walls

Distinctive features of the ceiling made of plastic mirror tiles

Mirror tiles are attractive, first of all, for their reflective ability. Thanks to it, any room will become visually more spacious. It is important that such a tile can reflect light, which will make the hallway lighter and more comfortable.

Mirror tiles are an inexpensive finishing material, quite durable and light in weight. Therefore, its installation is simple and convenient. The tiles are glued to a flat surface, so the base ceiling will need to be. The most convenient compositions based on gypsum.

Distinctive features of the ceiling with decorative plaster

Modern methods of applying plaster make it possible to create an atmosphere of an old castle, a respectable bungalow, a unique house in the room. All these techniques are easy to perform and can be implemented even by a beginner. Not required for ceiling decoration a large number plaster mix. Of the tools you need only a spatula.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

The composition of decorative plasters, as a rule, already includes pigment. But you can buy white plaster and paint it exactly as required for a particular room. Effective reception - varnishing of decorative plaster. Such protective covering will increase the life of the finish and make it even more attractive.

Ceiling plastering is a repair process consisting of a number of stages. If you do not want to be disappointed as a result of plastering work, then you must take into account all the nuances that you can learn about from.

Distinctive features of the ceiling made of aluminum or plastic rails

Mounted from a thin profile (rails). These structures are of two types: slotted or slotless (or otherwise: open and closed type). The former are distinguished by the absence of gaps between the panels, so they look like a continuous canvas with barely noticeable seams. The latter, due to the small gaps between the panels, give the impression of a type-setting ceiling. Both those and others are an excellent solution for decorating the ceiling in the hallway.

Slatted ceiling in the hallway

Slatted ceiling - one of the most profitable options for decorating the ceiling in the hallway. Like any other type of finish, it has its pros and cons. After evaluating each of them, we can conclude whether this method of ceiling cladding is suitable in a particular case.

Choice of material and mounting method

As already mentioned, rack ceilings are of two types. But they differ not only in the way of laying, but also design features rails. The slot-type panel has a U-shaped profile. The gapless type rail is equipped with a stepped ledge, with which it is attached to the adjacent panel.

Rails are made of aluminum, steel or plastic. Metal ones have a varnish coating, which can be of any color, but always glossy. This determines the reflectivity of such ceilings. Therefore, they are often installed in small areas: bathrooms, bathrooms and showers, hallways.

When buying, you need to pay attention to the length of the panels. Most manufacturers offer slats with a length of 4 m. Such panels are difficult to transport and cannot be transported in an elevator. Therefore, they have to be cut in half beforehand, while receiving slats 2 m long. Not every outlet provides such a service, so the length of the panels is an important criterion for their selection.

Drywall prices

drywall

Transportation must be careful. It is necessary to prevent the possibility of impact, otherwise barely noticeable dents will remain on the aluminum rails. But on the mounted ceiling, they will be visible due to its reflective ability.

Table. Distinctive features slatted ceilings open and closed type.

open ceiling	Closed ceiling
Forms a flat solid surface	Forms a textured embossed surface
Due to the absence of depressions, it is easier to maintain than a closed type ceiling	The presence of slots allows for better ventilation of the space above the panels, which is important when installing recessed lighting
To close the space between the panels, a special profile is required - layout	Does not require a profile to close gaps, therefore more cost-effective
Allows you to design a multi-color ceiling	Colored panels with gaps are not so attractive

Complete set of rack ceilings

You can order an individual rack design or buy a ready-made standard. Manufacturers offer kits for sanitary facilities with dimensions of 1.7x1.7 m and 1.35x0.9 m. To design a ceiling of other sizes, you will either need to select the equipment yourself in accordance with the parameters of the room, or contact the outlet manager for help.

What is included in the standard package of ceilings.

1. ceiling rail. Standard width 50mm, 84mm, 100mm, 150mm. You can choose any color according to the RAL table.
2. Tire(traverse, comb, stringer) - a bar designed to fix the panels to the base ceiling. Equipped with special notches.
3. U-profile. Designed for installation around the perimeter of the room and fixing the ends of the panels. Some manufacturers produce a U-shaped profile with perforations for wall mounting.
4. H profile. Designed to connect the ends of the panels when they are double (or more) laid along the length.
5. Installation instructions from the manufacturer.

To close the gaps between the panels of closed ceilings, a "layout" profile is required. Otherwise, it is called "insert". This element of the ceiling can be considered decorative. You can buy panels in one color, and layouts in another. But even single-color inserts will provide a spectacular play of light and shadow on the ceiling.

In addition to layouts, suspensions are not included in the standard package. They are necessary to regulate the level of the suspended ceiling in the event that the base surface has significant height differences or other flaws. You can also buy a corner perimeter profile, which is used to decorate joints.

Standard kits are packed in boxes equipped with a plastic handle. The CESAL manufacturer, taking care of the customers, informs them about the contents of the box by attaching a panel sample to its handle.

Design of slatted ceilings

Currently, depending on the shape of the slats and inserts, the standard classification of the design of slatted ceilings has been adopted:

• French (S-design);
• German;
• design.

Slatted ceilings with French design produced by three companies: Albes, Alconplas and CESAL. These designs are distinguished by the rounded shape of the panels, the width of which is 100 or 150 mm, the thickness is 0.5 mm. Such ceilings are open and closed. In the first case, inserts with a width of 25 mm are included in the package.

Slatted ceilings of German design are distinguished by a strict geometry of forms. Panels of this type have a rectangular edge profile, which gives the ceiling a concise look. These models can also be either open or closed. Designer ceilings are made to order according to the technical specifications provided by the customer.

Installation of a rack ceiling in the hallway

Tools for the job:

• tape measure and marker;
• level;
• metal scissors or a grinder with a thin metal disk (required for cutting panels into strips of a certain length);
• a drill and a drill corresponding to the material from which the walls are built;
• a hammer.

Step 1. Determination of the ceiling level. If the base ceiling is even, the U-profile can be attached directly to the corner joints of the walls. But in this case, you need to make sure that the height of the walls is the same. This can be done with a tape measure. But in apartment buildings the correct geometry of the room is a rarity, so the rack ceiling is often installed on suspensions that allow you to adjust the height of the structure.

To determine the height of a false ceiling, a self-leveling laser level is most convenient. When using it, no measurements are required. The level shows the horizontal with a red line, focusing on which, you can proceed to fix the U-shaped profile around the perimeter of the room.

Applying markings for mounting a ceiling made of plasterboard using a laser plane builder

If there is no such device at hand, the false ceiling level is beaten off “the old fashioned way”, using a tape measure, marker, thread and bubble level.

When beating a line in this way:

Determining the offset from the base surface and the length of the screws that are used to align the stringers (guides):

• a built-in lamp (on its side) and a suspension are alternately placed on the table;
• the suspension should be 0.5-1 cm longer than the lamp body;
• select the length of the screws (it should exceed the height of the lamp by 0.7-1 cm, taking into account the fact that the head of the screw will go into the recess on the stringer.

Step 2 Installation of a U-shaped profile. Instead of a U-shaped profile, you can use an aluminum corner.

Step 3 Stringer installation. The load of the suspended rack ceiling falls not on the U-shaped profile, but on the stringers. If the room is large, these guides may not be long enough. Therefore, you need to build them up.

They do it like this:

• impose one stringer on the other so that their recesses for fixing the panels are fully aligned;
• connect both strips using metal screws.

To ensure the rigidity of the suspended ceiling, it is installed on stringers located at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other. Side guides should be at a distance of 1-2 cm from the walls of the room. If necessary, hangers are attached to the base surface by the method indicated in step No. 2.

Prices for decorative plaster

decorative plaster

Two methods are used to level stringers.

1. Threads are pulled between opposite U-shaped profiles.
2. Attach the stringers with self-tapping screws to the base surface. This method is convenient in the presence of a wooden base ceiling. Screwing and unscrewing the screws, adjust the height of the stringers.

Step 4 Installation of wiring and installation of fixtures.

Step 5 Panel installation.

1. One end of the rail is inserted into a U-shaped profile.
2. Having slightly shifted the panel diagonally, its second end is inserted into a U-shaped profile located on the opposite wall.
3. Slide the rail so that it is under the notch of the stringer.
4. Raise the panel and press it against the stringer so that it snaps into place with a characteristic sound.

   

5. Install the next panel in the same way.

   

6. If the rail is located under the installation site of the lamp, appropriate markings are made on it and a hole is drilled using a crown desired diameter(it is important not to deviate from the markup and not scratch the surface of the panel while drilling).

   

   

7. After installing the rail, the lamp body is attached to it.

   

   

Step 6 Installation of the last rail. If the last rail does not fit in full size, it is cut along the entire length with scissors for metal.

Sequence of work:

• using a pencil, level or rule, draw a straight line along the rail;
• with scissors for metal, side cuts are made to the drawn line (the cuts must be perpendicular to the markup);
• cut off the incised part along the line with metal scissors.

Step 7 Installation of layouts (plug-in strips). The layouts are slightly compressed and inserted into the gaps between the rails so that they snap into place. These planks not only decorate the ceiling, but also make it more durable.

glass ceiling prices

glass ceiling

Upon completion of the installation, check the performance of the fixtures. If necessary, remove dust and stains from the ceiling with a damp cloth.

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of a rack suspended ceiling

One of the final stages of repair is finishing the hallway ceiling. And indeed, it is the entrance hall that we take up last, so as not to violate the integrity of the already repaired walls, floor and ceiling during the repair of other rooms.

But despite the fact that the decoration of the hallway is carried out when the main part of the repair is completed - it's too early to relax!

Ceiling finishes

To date, there are several dozen methods and varieties of ceiling decoration in the hallway.

But as a first approximation, they can be divided into two groups:

• Finish that is applied directly to the ceiling;
• Finishing, requiring the construction of additional structures.

The first group of finishing methods are:

• Whitewash;
• Painting;
• Wallpapering;
• Finishing ceiling tiles;
• Finishing with decorative plaster.

All of these finishes use the ceiling as the basis. Naturally, in order for the finish to be of high quality, the floor must be properly prepared - cleaned of the old finish and primed (see).

The second group includes:

• Ceilings made of plastic panels;
• Suspended plasterboard ceilings (single and multi-level);
• Stretch ceiling.

These types of ceilings in the hallway are mounted at some distance from the ceiling. Therefore, there are no special requirements for processing the overlap here.

Below we will take a closer look at the most common of these methods. After studying them, you can decide which ceiling to make in your hallway.

Finishing ceilings on the ceiling

Ceiling preparation

Before you start applying the finishing material, the ceiling must be prepared.

If we finish the hallway in a typical high-rise building with concrete ceilings, then we prepare the ceiling ceiling as follows:

• We clean the ceiling to concrete: we wash away the old whitewash, we clean the paint with a metal brush, and the old wallpaper with a spatula.
• We process the ceiling with a primer.
• With the help of a level, we attach beacon profiles to the ceiling - we will use them to navigate when plastering the ceiling.
• Using lighthouse profiles as a basis, we proceed to plastering the ceiling. To level the plaster layer, we use a long rail-rule (see).

Note! Before the completion of the plastering work, the beacon profiles are removed from the plaster layer. The cavities remaining from the profiles are filled with a plaster composition.

After waiting for the plaster to dry (the period depends on the composition of the plaster mixture), we putty the ceiling. For whitewashing and decorative plastering, especially thorough putty is not needed, but we putty the ceiling very carefully for painting (see). When the preparation is completed, we move on to finishing.

Whitewashing and painting

Whitewashing and painting the ceiling in the hallway is one of the most simple ways. However, as we noted above, these methods are simple only in themselves - since at the stage of preparation for whitewashing they require serious efforts to level the surface.

Note! If you are planning to whitewash or paint the hallway ceiling, it is important to level it very carefully with putty. In such a small room as a hallway, any unevenness of the ceiling will not only not be masked by painting - it will be emphasized by it.

This decoration of the hallway ceilings has proven itself in small hallways with relatively low ceilings.

The thing is that both whitewashing and painting:

• Minimally “eat up” space in height (where false ceiling you need 100-150 mm, for painting, taking into account the plaster, 10 is enough).

• Visually increase the height of the corridor. Competently choosing color scheme- a light ceiling, an intermediate shade of the wall and a dark floor - we can very much "stretch" the hallway.

Naturally, both whitewashing and painting of the ceiling are carried out before the floor and walls in the hallway are finished (see).

Decorative plastering

Decorative plaster is another way to quickly get a beautiful and even ceiling.

The plaster is applied according to the following scheme:

http://design-remont.ru/images/article/109_3.jpg

• On the ceiling plastered with a base plaster mixture, we apply a decorative mixture in an even layer a few millimeters thick.

• After the cut, until the plaster has begun to polymerize, we apply a relief to the plaster with a sponge, grater or notched trowel. The relief can be furrows, dots, lines, waves - in general, here you are given complete freedom of creativity.

• After polymerization decorative plaster we paint, but we simply tint IMLI, passing with an almost dry brush over the protruding parts of the relief.

In addition to whitewashing, painting and plastering, the ceiling can be pasted over with wallpaper or ceiling tiles. These finishing methods are quite simple, so they should not cause you any particular difficulties (see).

Independent ceilings

Suspended ceiling made of plasterboard or plastic

The second group of ceilings consists of the so-called independent ceilings - structures that are not fixed on the floor itself, but on a frame made of wooden planks or a metal profile:

• At a selected distance from the ceiling (most often it is 10-15 cm), we fasten the starting profile or the base rail along the perimeter of the hallway.
• We attach metal suspensions made of galvanized iron to the ceiling itself.

• We attach frame elements to the suspensions, which we connect to the starting profile and to each other.

• From below, we attach sheets of drywall to the frame, or plastic panels. We use self-tapping screws to fasten drywall, we fasten plastic panels either with a construction stapler or with “liquid nails”.

The resulting ceiling made of plastic panels does not require additional finishing, but plasterboard sheathing is most often puttied and painted.

Stretch ceiling

Stretch ceiling - almost ideal for finishing the hallway.

Such a ceiling is an elastic PVC sheet, which stretches at a certain distance from the ceiling between the walls of the hallway:

• First, we attach clamps for the canvas to the walls.
• Then, using a plastic spatula or a special tool, we insert the edges of the canvas into the grooves of the clamps.
• Using a heat gun or a building hair dryer, heating the canvas, stretching it into a single plane.

Stretch ceilings have only one drawback: they are quite expensive, and only professionals can make them with high quality.

There are many answers to the question "How can I finish the ceiling in the hallway?" so, when starting to repair, do not stop at the consideration of only one option. It is quite possible that after reading this article, you will find exactly the way that you needed!