What is better to lay on the ceiling of the house. Insulation of the ceiling in the house: principles and features, materials, technology of work. Attic insulation requirements

An uninsulated attic floor is one of the most vulnerable building structures in relation to heat loss. Through it, from 20 to 40% of the thermal energy needed by the residents easily “disappears” into the atmosphere.

The percentage of losses depends on the material used in the construction of the truss frame, and on the type roofing used in the arrangement of the roof.

Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof will significantly reduce heat loss. We will talk about how thermal insulation works are carried out.

We list in detail what materials will be required for the implementation of activities. Taking into account our recommendations, you can significantly increase the energy efficiency of the building.

The ceiling is insulated if it is located above it non-residential attic, respectively, not equipped with thermal insulation.

It is not used as a living space in winter, therefore, it does not need to lay a layer of insulation on the slopes. Often this is just a warehouse for inventory and a room for drying mushrooms / berries.

The non-residential attic itself plays the role of an air chamber that prevents the movement of heat waves both inside the building and out. However, to dry the wooden elements of the frame structure, roofing, metal parts mounts cold attic usually equipped with effective ventilation.

Ventilate it naturally, i.e. regular ventilation without the use of any mechanisms. The system operates without coercion. Air moves due to the difference in temperature with pressure outside the attic and inside it.

The air flow enters the attic space through the dormer windows in the summer and the gaps framing them in the winter, when a rarefaction forms inside. It is removed spontaneously, displaced by a new portion coming from the street.

For building structures, constant air circulation is really necessary. But along with the continuously moving air masses, heat is blown out of the attic. As a result, instead of saving it to save energy resources, additional costs are obtained.

How to deal with them? Be sure to warm up! Warming is carried out in two standard ways, these are:

• Thermal insulation device on the ceiling from above. Those. from the side of the attic to the reinforced concrete floor or between wooden lags lay foam polymer slabs, mineral wool, expanded clay or folk remedies(sawdust, dry leaves, etc.).
• Installation of slab insulation from the inside of the premises. Simply put, fixing polystyrene plates from the side of the premises to the lower plane of the ceiling.

In both cases, the insulation layer increases along the perimeter, i.e. along the line of joining the ceiling and the adjacent wall. Strengthening is required here due to increased heat loss. A vapor barrier membrane is placed between the wall, ceiling and insulation layer.

Why is not waterproofing used in the formation of a heat-insulating cake over the floor? Yes, because it is necessary to protect it, first of all, from steam penetrating from living quarters, and not from atmospheric water flowing from above.

It is the vapors emitted during breathing by us, our pets and house plants, formed in the process of cooking, during the intake hygiene procedures can damage the insulation system. But on top of the water must protect the roof.

By the way, when laying all types of heaters from the side of a cold attic, they are not covered from above with either steam or waterproofing. Thus, they leave the opportunity for materials to spontaneously dry out when airing the attic space.

In no case should heaters “sweep” and “get wet” under a practically sealed insulating film. Together with moisture, they lose their insulating properties. Wet thermal insulation retains almost nothing, but it can rot, and mold will spread to wooden elements.

Vapor barrier under the insulation, laid from the side of the attic, is arranged in the form of a trough: with the edges of the panel entering the walls. So it will prevent the insulation from getting wet not only from steam moving up from the side of the premises, but also from the side of walls that absorb atmospheric moisture.

Not using a vapor barrier layer is only permissible when extruded polystyrene boards are used as thermal insulation. They have practically no pores capable of absorbing and retaining moisture.

Moreover, this is allowed only above rooms with a stable "dry" operating mode. Above bathrooms, showers, swimming pools, the vapor barrier layer is laid in a pair with extruded polystyrene as usual. There after all there is a possibility of penetration of moisture between joints of plates.

Insulation from the attic

Almost all types of insulating materials are used in the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. Bulk options, rigid foam boards, soft wadded mats are in use.

Both industrial products and good old folk materials are used. The main advantages of the former include manufacturability. Their manufacturers have thought through and provided for everything for the prompt implementation of lightweight styling.

Folk remedies are much harder to lay. It is not easy to assemble them in the required volume, and even deliver them to the place of work, which is most often done by hand in buckets. But they are much cheaper, better than industrial products, they coexist with wood and do not emit toxins that are harmful to us.

The device of thermal insulation from the side of the attic space involves periodic maintenance of the insulation system.

Bulk materials should be periodically loosened so that they dry better, the rest should be inspected and artificially dried, for example, with a hairdryer if necessary.

For inspection and maintenance, along the logs above the thermal insulation, “paths” are constructed from two or three boards. If it is planned to fill the screed over heat-insulating plates and rigid mats, then the trajectory of the proposed path is laid out with a reinforcing mesh.

Use of mineral wool

The mineral wool group includes glass wool, stone (i.e. basalt) wool and slag wool. glass wool in last years they are used less and less because of its ability to abundantly "dust" small vitreous particles, which are strictly forbidden to inhale.

Work with glass wool is allowed only in a respirator and glasses. In addition, the smallest glass fibers are harmful to the skin.

Therefore, to the means personal protection you should add a jumpsuit made of thick fabric with strong elastic bands on the legs and sleeves, and be sure to have gloves.

Slag wool for insulation of ceilings in low-rise buildings is not used due to toxicity. It remains basalt, it is also stone wool, produced from volcanic rocks. This is because it is not harmful to use and easy to install.

The technology of thermal insulation with basalt wool is determined by the type of floor:

• On reinforced concrete floors. First, the base is repaired and leveled, then the vapor barrier is laid with the edges entering the walls. After that, the mats are rolled out and laid in 2 layers so that the butt seams of the lower tier overlap with the middle of the upper mat, i.e. scatter.
• On wooden floors. Mats are placed in the space between the lags. Previously, a vapor barrier material is placed in each “cell” formed by the lags with a stop on the logs and around the perimeter on the walls.

Cotton wool is cut before laying. Cut it so that the piece is at least 2 cm wider and longer than the actual size of the cell.

Before putting it in place, the piece of cotton is slightly compressed, so that after it it straightens out in the right place and closes the entire space. This prevents the formation of cold bridges.

Thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

Slab heaters are used mainly for reinforced concrete floors. For laying in the space between the lags, it is difficult to choose the size. You have to cut, waste time, and often the material with an illiterate cutting, and in general it is difficult to do everything without gaps, and these are ways for heat loss.

In the arrangement of the insulation complex for reinforced concrete floors, two types of slab thermal insulation are used:

• Styrofoam. It's non-extruded polystyrene foam. The material requires a mandatory vapor barrier before laying due to the fact that there are channels in its structure that can absorb water.
• extruded polystyrene. Most often it is Penoplex. Due to its practically waterproof surface, it is not necessary to install a vapor barrier before laying it over living areas, bedrooms, living rooms, children's rooms.

Before installing slab thermal insulation from the side of the cold attic, the bases must be repaired and leveled. The vapor barrier film is laid in the form of a pallet with sides bent on the walls.

Lay the boards freely. They are arranged in two layers with a run-up of seams in the lower and upper tiers. If Penoplex with a mounting chamfer is used, the seams do not need to be sealed, if the foam is used, then the seams and stacks are filled with sealant or mounting foam.

The screed on the slabs is most often performed partially, only at the site of the maintenance paths. It is either poured with a cement-sand mixture with a reinforcing mesh layer not exceeding 4 cm, or constructed from gypsum-fiber sheets.

If they are poured with a solution, then waterproofing is laid over the insulation. Purely so that the concrete milk does not seep into the insulation and does not affect its insulating qualities.

Arrangement with expanded clay gravel

The most famous sleeper thermal insulation material- expanded clay. It is used both directly for insulation and for lightening insulating compounds and mixtures. Expanded clay is produced in the form of gravel ranging in size from 4 to 10 mm.

Expanded clay is made from environmentally friendly easily sintered clay. The material is affordable, non-flammable, moisture resistant, lightweight, which greatly facilitates the delivery and backfilling. They fall asleep either in the space between the lags, or directly on the reinforced concrete floor.

Before backfilling expanded clay, the base is covered with a vapor barrier film, the edges of which traditionally go onto the walls. These peculiar sides should be 10-15 cm above the level of the gravel layer poured onto the ceiling.

It is not necessary to arrange maintenance paths for expanded clay. You can walk right along the backfill. Periodically, it needs to be agitated with a rake so that all the artificial pebbles of the insulating layer can dry out.

In addition to expanded clay, a wide range of folk filling insulation products are still used, attracting mainly owners of eco-houses as adherents of materials that are safe for themselves and the environment.

Bulk folk materials

Adherents of environmentally friendly construction methods have their own opinion, substantiated by centuries of successful practice, about the options for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

They believe that it is correct and reasonable to insulate both the ceiling directly under the cold roof and the slopes. natural materials.

In terms of insulating qualities, natural options are certainly inferior to industrial heaters.

But thermal insulation of natural origin is distinguished by:

• Environmental priorities. They don't pose the slightest threat environment, do not emit or spread harmful chemical components. Natural thermal insulators do not need to be disposed of in a special way, they can simply be burned or placed in a compost heap.
• Practicality. Folk heaters perfectly retained heat even in those days when the dwelling was heated only by a stove. In addition, there was no such powerful heating equipment, which the current owners of private houses have.
• Economic benefits. You can prepare natural thermal insulation for a penny or even for free. Replace when lost specifications can be much more often than factory products.
• Symbiosis with natural building materials. Natural heat insulators perfectly coexist with wood, clay, soil backfill. With a stable temperature regime, they do not deteriorate from contact with the stone.
• Safety for residents. In extremely rare cases natural materials can cause an allergic reaction, the origin of which has indisputable chemical prerequisites.

Most natural heat insulators, according to the method of laying, belong to backfill varieties. They are freely distributed over the ceiling, periodically stirred to dry and increase thermal insulation properties. For maintenance, paths are arranged from a pair of boards laid on logs.

One of the popular options for natural insulation is ecowool, made from natural cellulose. Its advantages include manufacturability of application, thoroughly thought out by manufacturers, and pre-treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics.

To this day, natural thermal insulation is used:

• Shavings and sawdust. Their abundance remains after construction wooden house, you can replenish stocks at sawmills and woodworking workshops. Fall asleep with a layer of 15 - 30 cm.
• Straw. You can prepare in the nearest farming engaged in the cultivation of cereals. It is laid in a layer of 25 cm.
• Moss. Excellent, practically non-rotting thermal insulation, used both from the inside of the building and from the outside. The qualities laid down by nature allow the use of moss for a dozen or more years. The insulation layer can be relatively small, up to 10 cm.
• Dry leaves, hay. You can stock up on such thermal insulation absolutely free of charge, but you will have to change it almost every year because of the tendency to quickly saturate with moisture. You can use not only foliage, but also needles. It is enough to insulate with a layer of up to 20 cm.
• Seaweed. Not in all regions of our country you can freely get this version of insulation. True, the inhabitants of Primorye have them in abundance and can change every year. The stacking power is up to 20 cm. Significant advantages include the distribution of volatile iodine molecules that are useful for people.

If your area has a pond overgrown with reeds, this plant will also serve. Its stems are tied together with a tourniquet or metal wire. Then the bundles fill the space between ceiling beams and lags.

The above types of natural thermal insulation have a number of significant drawbacks that are not characteristic of factory products. Therefore, in order to improve consumer qualities, filling natural heaters must be carefully prepared before laying.

The disadvantages that should be minimized before use, quite rightly include:

• Flammability and the ability to perfectly support combustion. Flame retardant treatment ideally combats this disadvantage. Instead, you can use clay or slag, a layer of which covers the top of the insulating backfill.
• Reduction of the heat-insulating thickness. The thermally insulating natural backfill must be stirred frequently to avoid pressing, it must be dried to prevent wetting and the associated reduction in insulating properties.
• incoherence. During the maintenance of the insulation and the device within the attic of the drafts necessary for drying, part of the material can be taken out corny. So, you need to constantly replenish the stock. This disadvantage can be overcome by baling.
• tendency to rot. The ability to quickly and easily absorb moisture can lead to decay, especially if regular maintenance is neglected. As a prophylactic, antiseptics used for wood processing are suitable.
• Attractiveness for rodents. In dry and warm layings of straw, moss, hay, rats and mice live freely, to scare away which you will have to purchase specialized tools in the SES.

There are two more popular types of folk thermal insulation, these are the soil-vegetative layer and crumpled clay. They do not burn and do not attract mice.

They are not afraid of moisture and drafts weathering dry plants. But there is a serious drawback - considerable weight, due to which it is necessary to strengthen the overlap.

Soil - a layer of soil in contact with the day surface, enriched with the waste products of representatives of flora and fauna, is mixed with any of the above folk heat insulators to facilitate it. It is simply scattered over the ceiling, like expanded clay.

Clay is diluted in containers with water to the consistency of sour cream, chopped straw or shavings are added to it and poured onto the floor with a layer of 10–15 cm. After the poured composition has hardened, the cracks are sealed with softened clay.

Ceiling insulation technology

If, for technical reasons, insulation from the side of the cold attic is not possible, then thermal insulation systems are installed from the side of the room, i.e. put on the ceiling. This option is more difficult to implement, but sometimes it is the only possible one.

In the case of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the ceiling, the following are used:

• Styrofoam. Panels of non-extruded expanded polystyrene are easily glued to a pre-leveled ceiling. Silicone sealant or mounting foam is introduced into the gaps between the elements, the excess of which should be removed immediately.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Also glue. Most often, Penoplex is used with a mounting edge that eliminates the likelihood of cold bridges. The thickness of the insulation can be accurately calculated according to the climatic data of the area and a material with the appropriate characteristics can be selected.
• Cork. The simplest option is a sheet cork substrate used as a flooring under warm floors. Panels glued to the ceiling are also suitable, but the cost of the insulation system will end up being much more expensive.

Sticking, holding the material to the canopy, of course, is much more difficult and more difficult than falling asleep from above. In addition, these options are not applicable without exterior finish. They just need to be decorated.

Masking of the ceiling insulation system is carried out by installing frame structures: stretch and slatted ceilings. For their installation, a fixing profile is installed around the perimeter of the room, located at least 1-2 cm below the glued insulation.

If you plan to install ceiling lights and exhaust ventilation ducts, then the distance between the plane decorative ceiling and the thermal insulation system is further increased. As a result, an unnecessarily low, as if “pressing” ceiling may turn out, which negatively affects the interior picture and the well-being of the owners of the house.

The options actively used in practice also include single- and multi-level drywall constructions. The rigid GVL option is a priority due to the fact that in case of wetting and peeling off the heat-insulating plate, it will freely hold the detached part.

In the field of building an insulation system from the inside of the room, heat-insulating plasters stand apart. Materials for their implementation have been developed relatively recently. The pioneers in their application were progressive industries: the military space complex, civil aircraft industry.

The composition of the heat-insulating plaster material applied to the ceiling contains the smallest ceramic balls, inside which air is contained. It is he who is the most active insulator.

A valuable advantage of heat-insulating plasters is the ability to apply the thinnest layer of 1 mm, the effectiveness of which will be equal to the efficiency of a foam board 5 cm thick. The downside is the considerable cost and complexity of application, which requires special equipment.

Video #1 Correction of errors in the ceiling thermal insulation device made by the former owner of the house:

Demonstration of the process of warming the attic floor with mineral wool:

The use of ecowool in the thermal insulation of the ceiling:

Properly executed thermal insulation of the ceiling will ensure ideal heat preservation, while creating conditions for the unhindered removal of household fumes and condensate outside the roof structure.

However, not only technologically accurately performed work is important, but also the correct selection of the insulation scheme and the material for its execution. We hope that our article will provide you with effective assistance in this matter.

If you need to perform thermal insulation on the inside or outside of the room, you need to know which ceiling insulation can be used. To do this, you will need to understand the characteristics of each material, to study their positive and negative sides.

Criteria for choosing a reliable insulation

The main requirement for heaters is good thermal conductivity, which does not allow warm air ceilings to leave the room. Another important criterion to consider when choosing a material is moisture resistance. Due to this property, the insulation will last for a long time, protecting the room from possible flooding with water.

Other factors include:

• elasticity and resilience, allowing you to maintain the original shape, restore it after installation;
• fire resistance;
• environmental Safety;
• ease of installation;
• vapor permeability - the insulation layer should not interfere with the normal circulation of air flows during natural ventilation in the room.

To insulate the ceiling, several types of materials are used. The most common include:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• expanded clay.

This material is lightweight, does not accumulate moisture, and is not subject to decay. The main disadvantage of foam plastic is increased flammability, however, it will be possible to secure the room if a layer of plaster is applied to the heat insulator.

Styrofoam is now often insulated in residential buildings and apartments. Wherein installation work do not require special knowledge and skills from you.

The basis of the foam is foamed plastics, and the main volume is occupied by gas, so the material is very light. The foam plastic manufacturing technology makes it inaccessible to rodents and insects, the heat insulator easily withstands mechanical damage and negative environmental factors.

Despite the unnatural origin, the foam absolutely does not pose a health hazard and belongs to the category of environmentally friendly materials.

On a note! If concrete floors are insulated with foam, you can choose a plate thickness of 50-75 mm, for external thermal insulation- 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam in comparison as heaters

As already noted, the main requirement for heat insulators is high thermal conductivity. If we compare two materials, then polyurethane foam is more effective in this indicator, since its thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.019 to 0.028 W / m * K, for expanded polystyrene this indicator equal to 0.04-0.06 W / m * K.

Comparative characteristics of the two materials are presented in the table.

Type of insulation	Density (kg/m³)	Thermal conductivity (W/m*K)	Temperature range (°C)	Service life (years)	Porosity
polyurethane foam	25-750	0,019-0,028	-160 to +150	50	Closed
Styrofoam	40-150	0,04-0,06	-100 to +80	15	closed

Thus, in addition to high thermal conductivity, polyurethane foam has a longer service life and a wide temperature range.

Mineral wool

It is resistant to fire, quickly takes the desired and restores its original shape, is produced in rolls or plates. Among other positive characteristics of mineral wool, low heat and sound conductivity can be distinguished.

For insulation, it is best to use basalt wool, which has increased strength and a long service life.

A prerequisite is waterproofing, since mineral wool has one significant drawback - the ability to accumulate moisture. Moisture-impregnated material quickly loses its original properties.

In terms of thermal conductivity, mineral wool corresponds to foam plastic (0.3-0.4 W / m * K), however, under real operating conditions, the coefficient is much higher.

Bulk insulation

Such materials are used as backfill from the attic. The most common bulk insulation on the ceiling is expanded clay. It is made from clay by firing. Depending on the size of the fractions, expanded clay is represented by several types:

• gravel;
• crushed stone;
• sand (screening).

The main advantage of expanded clay is low thermal conductivity (0.10-0.18 W / m * K) and low cost. The material is resistant to the formation of fungus and mold, is not afraid of rodents and does not pose a health hazard, since it is made from raw materials of natural origin.

Another good insulation, the thermal conductivity of which is from 0.07 to 0.08 W / m * K, sawdust. As an independent heat insulator, they are used very rarely, as they absorb moisture well. In connection with which they are mixed with clay, expanded clay, perlite or vermiculite. All of the above materials remove excess liquid well, preventing sawdust from rotting.

Important! You can use only small sawdust obtained in the process of processing wood on modern machines operating at high speeds.

When deciding which modern insulation is better to insulate the ceiling with, pay attention to the following heat insulators:

• polyurethane foam often used in construction, although it is quite expensive. The characteristics of the material are similar to extruded polystyrene foam, it is resistant to moisture, durable (service life is up to 50 years). Due to the fact that the application of polyurethane foam is carried out in a continuous layer, this insulation is not suitable for wooden floors;
• ecowool. It is a natural and environmentally friendly material. It contains special flame retardants that prevent combustion. Ecowool does not need to be additionally waterproofed, since moisture does not impair its quality. The thickness of the layer during thermal insulation is approximately 20-40 cm, in connection with which there are no ducts through which warm air can escape from the room. At the same time, it is allowed to use ecowool for any types of coatings;
• penoizol despite the original name, hides behind itself liquid foam. Since it is also applied in a continuous layer, penoizol can only be used as a heater for concrete floors;
• foiled polyethylene foam combines thermal insulation characteristics polyethylene foam and reflective foil functions. It is produced in rolls with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm, a width of 30 cm to 1 meter. With the help of polyethylene foam, it is possible to insulate both the inner and outer surface of the ceiling. It can also be used for waterproofing mineral wool. The material creates the effect of a thermos, not releasing heat from the room, preventing cold streams from entering it from the street.

Ways to install ceiling insulation

If you live in two-story house, then it is pointless to carry out foam insulation between the first and second floors, since it will be warm in the rooms without thermal insulation. Acoustic panels can be used instead of foam to provide sound insulation.

For a one-story building, foam insulation is best done from the side of the attic. If this is a high-rise apartment located on the top floor, you will have to be content with internal work. Then the procedure will be as follows:

• the ceiling surface is cleaned to the base floor (concrete);
• the base is treated with pesticides;
• install a waterproofing layer;
• material can be laid on top of the film, while the thickness of the insulation on the ceiling should be from 5 to 15 cm. The foam is fixed on dowels or glue;
• the next step is to press a reinforcing mesh (usually a basalt sheet) into the foam plastic, attach it to a construction stapler;
• the heat insulator is coated with a primer, finished with any selected material

From the inside of the room, the material is laid as follows:

• make a frame in the form of a metal crate screwed to the ceiling ceiling. In this case, the profile is used standard sizes or wooden bars 30x100 mm or 40x20 mm. The dimensions of the bars depend on the weight of the insulation. Reiki are fixed on dowels with suspensions every 60 cm;
• a layer of waterproofing is laid. On the wooden frame the film is fixed with nails, to a metal base - on self-tapping screws;
• insulation is laid in the cells of the frame, fixed on a stapler or self-tapping screws, while simultaneously performing vapor barrier as the top layer of the “pie”;
• from below, the entire structure is sheathed with drywall.

Mineral wool is one of the best insulation for the ceiling of the house, but if outdoor work is carried out, it is necessary to ensure full and free access to the ceiling surface from the attic. The installation algorithm will be as follows:

• a layer of vapor barrier is installed. If there are logs from the side of the attic, the film is laid directly on them. If there are no lags, you will have to make them yourself. For this, metal profiles or wooden slats are used;
• the crate is mounted in two stages. On the first, a horizontal beam is installed, on the second, vertical slats are fixed;
• insulation is laid between the lags, mineral wool is fixed on dowels with wide caps;
• the final stage - laying waterproofing;
• on top of the structure, a flooring of boards is installed.

Usually, internal and external methods of insulation in combination are used extremely rarely and mainly in those rooms where constant heat maintenance is necessary. For example, in baths.

Conclusion

Comparing foam plastic and mineral wool, it can be noted that according to technical parameters mineral wool is superior to polystyrene, but at a cost it is higher. In addition, foam is easier to work with. If it is necessary to replace a certain area, it is enough to pull out the plate, and then put a new one in its place. As for mineral wool, you will have to dismantle all the thermal insulation on the ceiling.

Related videos

Most people try to insulate the walls in a private house as best as possible to avoid heat loss. In fact, 60% of the heat energy goes through the ceiling, because warm air tends to rise up and goes out through the ceilings. In addition, there is always an increased level of humidity in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, hence mold and fungus in the corners. The insulated ceiling will not only make the house more comfortable, but also protect the property from damage.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

In a private house, ceiling insulation becomes task No. 1. To insulate the ceiling and reduce heat loss, you can use the following methods:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside. This is the case if under the roof is not an attic, but an attic. From wooden beams a frame is constructed, which is attached to the ceiling with a puncher and dowels-nails. Inside the frame is filled various heaters, and a vapor barrier is placed between the ceiling and the insulation. Then the insulated ceiling is sheathed with drywall. The disadvantage of this method is the "hiding" of a significant part of the ceiling, as well as the complexity of the work.
• Insulation of the ceiling from the outside. This method good if there is an attic under the roof. There are also variations depending on the type of insulation.

Foam insulation

Before starting the process of warming, you need to free the attic from excess rubbish, sweep out all the debris, and carry out wet cleaning down to clean concrete. According to the size of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room to be insulated, it is necessary to purchase the appropriate amount of foam not less than 40 mm thick or foam styrene, but it will cost much more. Both materials have low thermal conductivity and high resistance to damage by microorganisms. The entire space of the floor is covered with foam sheets, the joints are glued with mounting foam. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the foam and poured screed with a layer of at least 50 mm. This procedure is necessary if the attic is to be used.

Foam Disadvantages:

• questionable refractory properties, added flame retardants are short lived
• exudes formaldehyde
• it has rodents
• there is a "greenhouse effect", the room must be often ventilated

Technology for installing foam and penoizol

The effectiveness of thermal insulation when using penoizol is much higher than when installing finished foam boards. The plates may not fit snugly against the supporting frame, forming cracks and “cold bridges”. Filling with penoizol saves fare, electricity. Penoizol adheres tightly to the wall due to the resins included in its composition. It dries within 15-20 minutes. The only drawback is that it is impossible to pour penoizol on your own. Whole procedure should be carried out by experts.

To install foam boards you will need:

1. Styrofoam
2. drywall sheets
3. metal profile or wooden slats
4. a hammer
5. polyurethane foam
6. waterproofing material
7. screwdriver
8. waterproofing membrane glassine, which is made of roofing paper and impregnated with bitumen. It prevents the penetration of moisture into the thermal insulation layers.
9. fasteners - screws and self-tapping screws, sometimes nails
10. hacksaw

There are two ways to mount foam boards: frame and adhesive. The preparatory process for both methods is the same. The length and width of the area are carefully measured. These indicators are multiplied, and the area is obtained. Based on it, the appropriate number of foam boards with a minimum thickness of 5 cm is purchased. Then surface is processed, to which the plates will be glued. Old whitewash, plaster is removed, dust and dirt are washed off. Can even be surface treated antiseptic. Apply a coat of primer to make the surface even. If possible, replace with a newer existing electrical system.

The adhesive method has its own nuances. In order for the foam to bond well with the surface of the ceiling, it is necessary observe temperature regime not lower than 50C and not higher than 250C . As an adhesive, you can use ordinary tile adhesive. They can also process the surface to which the plates will be attached. After it dries, you can continue the installation work. Glue is applied to the foam sheet and the wall, held for 2-3 minutes and the foam is pressed to the surface.

You can also use dowels with large caps. In the same way, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulated surface is pasted over. After the entire ceiling is insulated, all joints and cracks are carefully coated with glue or mounting foam to enhance tightness. When the glue or foam is dry, you can reinforce the ceiling. To do this, a special solution is applied to the foam sheets, into which a fiberglass mesh is immersed. Another layer of solution is applied on top. It is necessary to wait until the solution is completely dry, and only then continue the installation work.

With the frame method of mounting the foam, wooden or metal slats are attached to a previously cleaned and primed surface in such a way that cells are obtained. Cell size depends on the size of the foam boards. For example, if the plates are 1/1 m in size, then the cells must be made 50/50 cm. Accordingly, during installation, the foam sheet will need to be cut into 4 equal squares. In the case of using an aluminum profile, metal rails are attached to the ceiling using a perforator and screws.

A foam sheet is inserted into the grooves obtained, smeared on the side on all sides with “liquid nails” for reliable bonding of the plates with the supporting structure. A whole sheet of foam plastic is inserted into the aluminum rails and reinforced with self-tapping screws. Further also reinforcement is being carried out: a special mortar is applied, a reinforced mesh is placed and a pouring layer is applied again. Everything, the insulated ceiling is ready. If desired, drywall can be sewn over whole foam boards.

Penoizol as a heater for the ceiling

Penoizol is expanded foam in liquid form. For the installation of penoizol, special equipment must be used. It is not very expensive in terms of cost, and it is easy to fill them. hard-to-reach places. Penoizol is fireproof, hygroscopic, has low thermal conductivity. It does not contain rodents, it is not affected by microorganisms. Penoizol can be operated at temperatures from -600C to +800C. The material has high soundproofing properties. The environmental friendliness and safety of penoizol has been confirmed by numerous experiments.

Penoizol installation technology

Is being done wooden or metal cell frame, the cells of which are filled with penoizol. It expands and fills the entire space. Gradually, it polymerizes and becomes an excellent insulation. When using it, it is not necessary to use either a steam or a waterproofing agent.

Warm ceiling with mineral wool

This material is divided into glass wool, ceramic, slag and stone wool. Varieties of glass wool are modern materials for insulation Rocklight, Technoblock, Technovent, Technolight, Technoruf, Technofas, etc. The raw material for the production of the material is basalt, limestone, diabase or dolomite. The highest quality mineral wool is obtained from rocks.

When using mineral wool, it is necessary to wear work clothes, goggles and a respirator, because the particles of the material irritate the skin. After laying, mineral wool becomes safe for humans. Before using it, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris and dirt. to pure concrete. A frame for the future floor is made of wooden beams. Measurements are taken, logs are mounted, a vapor barrier is laid, glassine is better. Sheets of mineral wool are placed on top of it, but this should not be done too tightly, cotton cannot be squeezed. To make the floor even warmer, you can put mineral wool in two layers, and upper layer should overlap the joints of the bottom. Next, the flooring is laid, which is attached to the wooden frame.

Flaws:

• the material must not be removed and compacted, because it may lose its thermal insulation properties
• mineral wool must be carefully protected from moisture
• even a small gap can reduce the heat capacity of the ceiling
• along with mineral wool, another moisture-proof material is also used, which increases the cost and complicates the process
• needs to be changed every 10-15 years

Mineral wool installation technology

First you need to accurately calculate how much insulation, hydro and vapor barrier materials need to be purchased. Remember that when working with glass wool, dust is released that irritates the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, it is necessary purchase protective clothing and goggles, respirator, gloves. It must also be turned off while working with mineral wool ventilation system to keep dust from getting in. For mounting mineral wool you will need the following:

1. insulation
2. wooden slats (width 150 mm, thickness 30 mm) or galvanized profile
3. perforator
4. self-tapping screws
5. big scissors
6. protective equipment
7. vapor barrier
8. metal staples
9. roulette

If the house is wooden, then as a supporting structure are selected wooden slats. A waterproofing layer with an overlap of 10 cm is placed on the wooden floor. A crate is attached on top. The distance between the rails is 50-60 cm. Mineral wool is unpacked immediately before installation. The insulation is cut into pieces in width corresponding to the distance between the slats plus 2 cm for a snug fit.

Between waterproofing and insulation is done a gap of 1-2 cm for natural circulation air. Mineral wool is placed tightly enough so that wrinkles and crevices do not form. Then, a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm is attached from above, perpendicular to the rafters, and attached to the wooden slats with a stapler. All seams are carefully fastened with a mounting film. This will enhance the tightness of the structure.

It is a cellulose based material, absolutely harmless to humans. 81% ecowool consists of recycled cellulose, a product of paper processing, 12% of antiseptic, 7% of flame retardants. The fibers contain lingin, which gives the structure its stickiness. The material is resilient and elastic enough not to shrink, and at the same time has a capillary structure thanks to which the ceiling "breathes". Ecowool protects the surface from the spread of fungus, and rodents are not found in it. Upon contact with metal structures corrosion does not occur, and in case of fire, the material smoldering but not burning.

• during installation, ecowool emits a lot of dust from boric acid
• installation can only be carried out by specialists using special equipment
• ecowool cannot be used near a source of fire or high temperatures (bath), otherwise ecowool starts to smolder

Ecowool installation technology

Manual way to install ecowool complicated and tedious. The material installed by an unskilled specialist reduces its effectiveness by 20-30%. There are two ways of mechanical installation of ecowool: dry and wet. The dry method is convenient for attic insulation. The use of special membrane films such as Tyvek makes it possible to pump ecowool not only into horizontal, but also into inclined and vertical surfaces. For this on special equipment fill the ecowool cavity of the building frame under air pressure.

The wet mounting method arose due to the ability of ecowool, when wetted with water, to stick to any surface due to the special substance lignin included in its composition. Wet ecowool groans viscous and sticky, and with the help of a pneumatic installation under air pressure, the ecowool is sprayed and adheres tightly to the surface. After drying, a uniform and homogeneous layer is formed, which has soundproofing ability.

If it is not possible to do surface cladding, then apply wet adhesive method of application ecowool. With this method, ecowool is treated not with water, but with an adhesive solution, which significantly enhances the adhesive ability of the material.

Insulation with ecowool should be carried out by specialists, then the material will 100% realize all its advantages.

How to insulate the ceiling with sawdust

This method obsolete, but is still used for insulation of ceilings.

Flaws:

• shrink, they need to be sprinkled
• fire hazardous

Sawdust insulation installation technology

First you need to replace the wiring, isolate it in metal pipes and insulate the chimney. To use sawdust as a heater you will need:

1. sawdust
2. lime
3. cement
4. blue vitriol

We prepare sawdust for laying. It is difficult for one person to cope, you need an assistant. In a large spacious barrel, 10 buckets of sawdust, 12 buckets of lime and 1 bucket of cement are mixed. Everything is well mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Water is poured into a 10 liter watering can, poured a few tablespoons of copper sulfate as an antiseptic. Slowly, the contents of the watering can are poured into a barrel with sawdust mixture. If, with a clenched fist, the mixture stops emitting moisture, then it is ready for use.

Glassine is spread along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and fastened with adhesive tape or galvanized clamps. On the surface of parchment sawdust mixture is laid out evenly. You don't need to push it too hard. Level the surface and let it dry for at least 2 weeks. Everything, the heater is ready. Only walking on it is not recommended, so the room should not be used.

Clay ceiling insulation

Clay is considered environmentally friendly, fire resistant and inexpensive roof insulation. To use sawdust and clay as a heater, you will need:

• sawdust
• lime
• cement
• blue vitriol

Clay insulation installation technology

From beams, bars and boards, treated with an antiseptic, a special overlap is made (the description was made earlier), where clay will be poured. The bottom of the ceiling is lined with polyethylene or PVC film, which is attached to the beams and boards with a stapler. In a concrete mixer or a large barrel, 5-6 buckets of clay (which you can dig up in your garden) diluted until completely dissolved with water. Then sawdust is added and mixed until such a state that the mixture is not too wet or very dense. The resulting mixture is laid out on the floors between the beams with a layer of 5-10 cm. It is necessary to wait for the clay to dry completely. This may take over a month. To speed up the process, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the attic. On a clay surface small cracks may appear but they rub off easily.

Flaws:

• under the clay, the tree can become moldy and rot
• with the wrong ratio of clay and sawdust, thermal conductivity increases and heat is lost

Expanded clay for ceiling insulation

Expanded clay is a lightweight refractory material made from fired clay of low-melting grades. Glassine is placed on the floor and reinforcing mesh is laid, expanded clay is poured over all this. It is heat and sound insulating, resistant to moisture, rodents are not found in it. Expanded clay performs the function of a thermal cushion, which is poured from above with a screed. For installation of expanded clay insulation you will need the following:

1. expanded clay
2. waterproofer
3. vapor barrier
4. adhesive tape, aluminum tape
5. stapler
6. staples

Installation technology of expanded clay insulation

This technology is similar to the technology of laying other heaters such as clay or sawdust. First, the surface on which expanded clay will be poured is cleaned of dirt and old whitewash. A cellular structure is made from wooden beams over the entire surface. Then, with an overlap of 10 cm, they creep wide strips of waterproofing. Joints are glued with adhesive tape. After fixing, a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the waterproofing agent and a layer of expanded clay is poured. Its surface is leveled. A vapor barrier sheet is laid over the expanded clay layer and attached to wooden slats stapler or metal staples. A vapor barrier is placed on top of the expanded clay layer and beams, which is also fixed to the wooden structure with a stapler and staples.

Flaws:

• material is heavy
• air "walks" between the granules
• requires subsequent pouring or vapor barrier
• Requires special equipment for quality work

Foil insulation

The tree itself is a regulator of heat and humidity, so foil insulation is best used in a room with a concrete floor. When using it, you can exclude the use of a vapor barrier. The foil itself good conductor heat. Foil expanded polystyrene is produced in sheets of 60/120 cm and has a thickness of 2-10 cm.

Sheets have stepped locks to eliminate "cold bridges". Foil polyethylene foam can be one-sided and two-sided. The material also has a thickness of 2-10 cm, and is available in rolls 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 m long and looks like a carpet. Sometimes a layer of mineral wool is covered with foil polyethylene. Thus, thermal insulation is enhanced, and the release of carcinogens from mineral wool is also reduced. Foil glass wool is produced in the form of mats, supplemented reinforced mesh. Typically, foil insulation is used to insulate the ceiling and walls of a bath or steam room.

Foil insulation installation technology

According to the method described above, a cellular structure is made from wooden beams or metal planks. Cut to size with scissors required size foil insulation and fixed with a construction stapler. The foil side should “look” at the room, and not at the floor. Sometimes manufacturers produce foil insulation with already applied to the surface a layer of glue.

Sheets of foil insulation are placed end to end, and the joints are glued with a special aluminum adhesive tape. Thus, a surface is obtained that perfectly reflects heat rays. If you plan to use drywall or lining on top of the foil insulation, then you need to make an air gap of 1-2.5 cm between the insulation and the final finish. Otherwise foil will heat up and warp the building material. Everything, the insulation is ready. Simply and easily!

Flaw- a tree under a foil insulation with loose laying can ban and rot.

In winter, at least 25% of the heat goes through the roof of an uninsulated building, the losses are compensated by enhanced heating. Of course, heating also entails increased energy consumption. A budget way to solve the problem is to insulate the ceiling in a private house, the attic remains cold. The overlap is smaller than the roof slopes in area, hence the savings. Our task is to tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling, after selecting the appropriate materials.

The eternal question - to insulate from the inside or outside

Any external fence separating the living space from the street is best sheathed with thermal insulation from the outside. Accordingly, the insulation of the ceiling on the upper floor of a private house is done from the side of the attic. The reasons:

1. Installation is physically simplified, which is important when doing do-it-yourself work. No need to make a hanging frame or hem the insulation from below to the ceiling.
2. A layer of insulator with a thickness of 10-20 cm (depending on the region of residence) will not reduce the height of the rooms. This is an important plus for old buildings and "Khrushchev" with low ceilings.
3. In a habitable house or apartment, you do not have to redo the repairs.
4. If you do not follow the technology of internal thermal insulation, the surface under the insulation will get wet, a fungus will appear. Moisture condensation inside the “pie” is facilitated by 2 factors: the penetration of water vapor and the formation of a dew point at the junction of dissimilar materials.

When the outer fence is sewn up from the inside, the moisture condensation point is located near the interface of 2 different building materials

About the notorious dew point, which frightens ordinary homeowners. To avoid condensation inside the structure, it is worthwhile to withstand 2 conditions: prevent water vapor from the room from entering and use an insulator of sufficient thickness. Then the dew point will be inside the insulation, where there is nothing to condense. The second way is to organize the removal of moisture with the help of ventilation (read below).

Reference. The dew point is the phenomenon of condensation of water vapor from the air at a certain humidity and temperature. The lower the air temperature, the sooner the degree of extreme saturation with moisture is reached and condensation begins.

There are exceptions to the rules, not every room can be finished with insulation from the outside. Examples:

• the ceiling of the upper apartment of a multi-storey building;
• attic;
• balcony, loggia;
• concrete floor of the garage above the basement, cellar;
• the need to save money, etc.

For obvious reasons, it will not be possible to insulate the garage basement from above.

In these cases, internal thermal insulation of ceilings is arranged with strict adherence to technology. We will describe the procedure for doing work in the form of step-by-step instructions, but first you need to find out ...

The better to insulate ceilings

For insulation of ceiling structures, 4 groups of materials are used:

1. Fibrous - mineral, stone (basalt) and glass wool.
2. Loose - sawdust, clay, expanded clay, vermiculite.
3. Polymers made from expanded polystyrene and polyethylene.
4. Sprayed - ecowool, polyurethane foam, liquid foam - penoizol.

We will not focus on the last group of heaters - liquid mixtures are applied by spraying or filling cavities under pressure, which requires an appropriate technological equipment. You can’t do such ceiling insulation in a private house with your own hands - you need to hire craftsmen from a specialized company and pay for services.

Application of cellulose ecowool (left) and PU foam (right)

Note. Sprayed materials are the most effective and at the same time expensive. Only Polynor insulating polyurethane foam with a low thermal conductivity coefficient λ = 0.04 W/(m °C) is applied manually. The price of an aerosol can is 8 USD. e., the coverage area is 1 m² with a thickness of 50 mm. Thermal resistance of the layer: R \u003d 0.05 / 0.04 \u003d 1.25 m² ° C / W - the information will be useful to us for comparison.

Let us consider in more detail each group of building materials, then we will choose suitable heaters for ceilings in various rooms.

Porous fibrous materials

For thermal insulation of roofs and attics under a cold roof, 3 types of fibrous products are used:

• mineral wool on a synthetic binder, thermal conductivity λ = 0.055-0.06 W / (m ° C);
• basalt non-combustible insulation λ = 0.05-0.053 W / (m ° C);
• mineral wool based on fiberglass (otherwise - glass wool) λ = 0.044 W / (m ° C).

Clarification. We give the parameters of heaters for real operating conditions, taken from regulatory construction documentation. To overestimate the characteristics of insulators, manufacturers indicate the coefficient λ for the material in the dry state. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better insulation resists cold.

Above, we calculated the thermal resistance R of foam insulation 5 cm thick (1.25 m² ° C / W). Let's compare the indicator with the characteristics of fibrous materials of similar thickness by performing a short calculation for each (the technique from SNiP was applied):

• mineral wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.055 \u003d 0.9 m² ° C / W;
• stone wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.05 \u003d 1 m² ° C / W;
• glass wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.044 \u003d 1.14 m² ° C / W.

Conclusion. By thermal insulation properties fibrous heaters lose to liquid and foamed polymers. Glass wool shows the best result, ordinary mineral wool insulators show the worst result. By the way, the values ​​​​of thermal resistance R are interpreted the other way around: the higher the indicator, the more efficient the insulation of a certain thickness works.

Externally, basalt wool differs from mineral wool in color and corrugated fiber structure.

We list the remaining, no less important properties of fibrous insulation:

1. Cotton wool is produced in rolls, slabs and mats different density– from 35 to 200 kg/m³.
2. The structure with open pores promotes good vapor permeability of materials.
3. Mineral wool absorbs moisture, but with proper ventilation dries quickly.
4. Basalt fiber is considered non-combustible because it can withstand temperatures of 600-700 °C. Ordinary mineral wool slabs also do not burn, but are destroyed by strong heat. Glass wool begins to melt at 250 degrees.
5. Heaters do not have high strength, they are attached to glue or using a frame.

Wool based on fiberglass contains the smallest particles of glass, therefore it is not applicable inside residential premises. The well-known manufacturer of roofing insulation "Isover" recommends covering attic floors with glass wool from the outside.

The structure of glass wool - the fibers form many air spaces

Other mineral heaters use a synthetic binder containing formaldehyde. Under certain conditions, these substances can be released and mixed with air. At internal insulation mineral wool must be well isolated from the living space with the help of a film, drywall, and so on.

Loose insulation

All backfill materials are of natural origin, and therefore environmentally friendly. The following heaters are used for insulation of ceilings:

• expanded clay;
• small chips, sawdust;
• clay;
• vermiculite gravel.

Reference. Vermiculite is much more expensive than expanded clay, so it is used quite rarely. Clay in its pure form is also not used - it is usually mixed with reeds or sawdust.

The main disadvantage of natural heaters is their low efficiency compared to mineral and polymer products. Example: the thermal conductivity of expanded clay gravel with a density of 200 kg / m³ is 0.11 W / (m ° C). The thermal resistance R of a 50 mm layer will be only 0.05 / 0.11 = 0.45 m² °C / W. The indicators of expanded clay of increased density, sawdust and clay are even less.

Vermiculite (left) and expanded clay gravel (right)

Briefly about the properties of building materials:

1. All bulk insulation well pass water vapor.
2. Flammability of clay, expanded clay and vermiculite gravel is practically zero. Sawdust or reeds mixed with clay mortar also successfully resists fire.
3. Long service life (excluding wood shavings).

The low price of natural heaters is a relative concept. To create a heat-insulating layer comparable to mineral wool 5 cm thick, you need to fill in expanded clay to a height of 100 mm, that is, spend twice as much.

Characteristics of polymer thermal insulation

To begin with, we give a list of the materials used, indicating the heat-conducting characteristics in the operating mode:

• foam plastic with a density of 15 ... 35 kg / m³, λ \u003d 0.045-0.041 W / (m ° C);
• extruded polystyrene foam EPPS, density - 20 ... 40 kg / m³, λ = 0.039-0.037 W / (m ° C);
• foamed polyethylene 30…50 kg/m³, λ = 0.044-0.042 W/(m °C).

Reference. Extruded polystyrene foam is often called Penoplex after a popular brand name. Products made of polyethylene foam are known by the names "Penofol", "Izolon" and "Tepofol".

Thin insulation PE foam with foil reflective layer

For comparison with fibrous insulators, we determine the thermal resistance of polymers 50 mm thick:

• polystyrene 25 kg / m³ - R = 0.05 / 0.043 = 1.16 m² ° C / W;
• "Penoplex" - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.038 \u003d 1.32 m² ° C / W;
• "Penofol" - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.042 \u003d 1.19 m² ° C / W.

It is noticeable that the thermal insulation performance of polymer insulation exceeds the characteristics of mineral and basalt wool. The leader is extruded polystyrene, whose result is comparable only to machine-applied polyurethane foam.

The rest of the properties look like this:

1. Thanks to closed air pores heaters practically do not pass moisture. An exception is foam plastics with a meager vapor permeability of 0.05 mg / (m h Pa). Mineral wool indicators - 0.4 ... 0.6 mg / (m h Pa).
2. All polymers are combustible, no matter what sellers and manufacturers claim.
3. Materials based on polystyrene have high strength, are produced in plates.
4. Foamed polyethylene has a soft and flexible structure and is sold in rolls. To reflect the infrared heat flux, the surface of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil.

In terms of availability, polystyrene is the leader - its price is comparable to natural materials. "Extruder" is sold at the price of basalt non-combustible wool or even more.

Useful fact. A good insulator can be a polymer stretch ceiling, which forms an air gap under the ceiling. This cavity cannot be called airtight, but there are very few ways for the penetration of warm air.

A review and comparison of the characteristics of insulating materials showed that each group of insulators has strengths and weaknesses that limit the scope. For example, combustible polymers cannot be used to insulate interfloor floors. wooden houses- Prohibited by fire regulations. You should not ignore the requirement - with the help of a heater, the fire will easily spread to the next floor.

Reference. When installing wooden ceilings, the regulations require that the supporting beams be treated with a refractory compound and the use of non-combustible insulators. If you follow these instructions, then in the event of a fire, the ceiling will last 30-60 minutes until complete collapse. Here is the answer to the question of whether it is possible to insulate a wooden ceiling with foam plastic.

building codes recommend processing. wooden structures flame retardant

Based on experience in construction and other regulatory requirements, we will give the following recommendations for choosing thermal insulation:

1. It is better to insulate wooden floors from the side of the attic with basalt wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, or a mixture of clay and sawdust.
2. The ceilings in the bath rooms (especially the steam rooms) must be insulated with environmentally friendly materials. Here the choice is small - the same expanded clay, sawdust mass, vermiculite gravel, natural moss. No polymers and mineral wool, from strong heating, the release of harmful substances will begin.
3. The ceilings of attic rooms are sewn up from the inside with dense basalt fiber, glass wool is not applicable.
4. Concrete monolithic coatings are usually insulated with foam or polystyrene foam. AT country house- from the side of the roof, on the balcony of a high-rise building or in the basement of a garage - from the inside.
5. It is more correct to insulate flat reinforced concrete roofs with polymers from the outside, before the installation of a built-up bitumen roof. If this is not possible, "Penoplex" is hemmed from below without problems, but in compliance with the technology.
6. Foil polyethylene foam is desirable to use as an additional insulating layer. How to properly insulate the ceiling with Isolon and Penofol, from a separate guide.

Practice shows that it is better not to combine wood and vapor-tight building materials. The polymer, which is tightly attached to the beam, blocks the access of air, the wood does not “breathe”. If steam begins to condense at the junction, which has nowhere to go, the wood will turn black and rot.

The author of the video is clearly exaggerating and exaggerating the problem, but the situation shown is, of course, unacceptable. There is only one way out - when using polymers, it is necessary to ensure the contact of wood with air, which is not easy to implement technically.

How to calculate the thickness of thermal insulation

We will show the determination of the thickness of the insulating layer with examples. We take the formula for calculating thermal resistance as a basis (in the previous sections, we have already used it to compare the effectiveness of different materials):

• R - heat transfer resistance of the insulating "pie", m² °C / W;
• δ is the thickness of the insulation, m;
• λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, W/(m °C).

The essence of the calculation: according to the standard thermal resistance specified for your region of residence, calculate the thickness of the insulation, knowing the characteristic λ. The value of R is determined according to the scheme given in the regulatory documents, the map with indicators for the Russian Federation is shown in the photo.

Similar maps can be found in the regulations of other CIS countries

Example 1 It is necessary to calculate the insulation of a dacha with an attic, located in the suburbs. We find the characteristics R for Moscow, select the indicator 4.7 m² °C / W (for coatings), take the coefficient λ of basalt wool equal to 0.05 W / (m ° C) and calculate the thickness: δ = 4.7 x 0.05 = 0.235 m ≈ 240 mm.

Example 2 We determine the thickness of the insulating layer from "Penoplex" for concrete floors, location - Cherepovets. The algorithm is this:

1. We find on the Internet or reference literature the thermal conductivity of reinforced concrete λ = 2.04 W / (m ° C) and find out the thermal stability of a standard floor slab 220 mm: R = 0.22 / 2.04 = 0.1 m² ° C / W.
2. According to the map-scheme, we find the standard value R for Cherepovets, we take the overlap indicator - 4.26 m² ° С / W (the figure is highlighted in green).
3. We subtract the found resistance of the plate from the required value of heat transfer: 4.26 - 0.1 \u003d 4.16 m² ° C / W.
4. We calculate the thickness of the polystyrene foam insulation λ = 0.037 W / (m ° C): δ = 4.16 x 0.037 = 0.154 m ≈ 160 mm.

Comment. The algorithm does not take into account the heat resistance of the interior and attic floors, so it gives a result with a small margin. If we subtract the resistance of the floorboards and the plasterboard ceiling lining, the thickness of the XPS will decrease to 135 mm.

We warm the ceiling with mineral wool

As mentioned above, mineral wool is used to insulate wooden floors and ceilings in attic rooms. So that the material does not become saturated with moisture and does not lose heat resistance, 3 conditions must be met:

• protect cotton wool from the ingress of water vapor from inside the premises;
• ensure ventilation of the outer surface so that the resulting moisture is weathered from the thickness of the insulation;
• the vapor permeability of the materials used in the "pie" should increase towards a colder room or street, as shown in the diagram.

Slab or rolled mineral wool is located in the space between the ceiling beams, as shown in the insulation diagram. When laying thermal insulation with your own hands, follow the following procedure:

1. Roll out a vapor barrier film from below the beams, laying adjacent sheets with an overlap of 100 mm wide. Make an overlap on the walls with a width of 10-15 cm. Carefully glue the joints with adhesive tape.

   The right photo shows a variant of moisture insulation with polyethylene foam with a reflective foil layer.

2. Glue the film overlaps to the walls of the structures silicone sealant. The goal is to cut off indoor moisture from penetrating into the attic.
   
3. Work is being carried out from the side of the cold roof. Therefore, first make a rough lining of the ceiling, where the cotton wool will subsequently fall.
4. Lay the mineral wool boards as shown in the photo. The rolled material is carefully trimmed and inserted between the log; wadding is unacceptable.
   
5. Lay out waterproofing sheets on top of the insulation - a diffusion membrane that allows moisture to pass only in one direction - out. Overlap 10 cm and glue the joints.
6. Arbitrarily lay attic floors across the lag from edged boards. Solid flooring is optional.

An important point. Between the surface of the wool and the waterproofing, a ventilation duct must be provided. Thanks to air gap moisture is removed from the heater.

Sometimes builders lay the first moisture-proof film over the boards of the draft ceiling, bypassing each beam. We do not recommend using this approach - the vapor barrier will close the access of air to the log wood, and from below it will remain open for saturation with steam. Further it is clear - the tree will begin to rot.

How to lay mineral wool on the ceiling if the thickness of one layer is not enough. In such cases, a second tier of heat-insulating plates is made, shifted by 30-50 cm relative to the first row. If the height of the supporting beams is not enough to organize the air, the frame is built up from the battens of the crate, then the 2nd layer of insulation and waterproofing are arranged.

On the left, an additional crate is shown when the height of the beams is not enough

The attic insulation scheme is very similar to the thermal insulation of a wooden floor:

1. A counter-lattice is provided on the roof, the diffusion membrane is rolled out from above along the rafters. If there is no external frame, waterproofing can be fixed from the inside, bypassing each rafter leg and shooting the edges of the canvases with a stapler.
2. The insulation is placed between the rafters by surprise. If the width allows, we put the plates in 2 layers with dressing, otherwise we mount a horizontal counter-lattice.
3. We nail the vapor barrier to the rafters through the slats, where the interior trim from the plasterboard or lining is subsequently attached.

Reminder. When working with glass wool or basalt fiber, do not forget to wear a respirator and gloves, the material is very dusty and irritates the skin. How to isolate wood flooring without errors, look at the video:

It is extremely undesirable to insulate concrete ceilings with cotton wool from the inside, especially in wet rooms - the kitchen and bathroom. The porous material will freeze and lose properties if not provided. Another thing is to fix the mineral wool in space behind stretch ceiling where water vapor hardly penetrates.

Expanded polystyrene technology

Polymers are usually used to insulate reinforced concrete floors and ceilings, and on both sides. In order to isolate the structure from the inside, the surface must be prepared - seal the joints of the plates, level with mortar and carefully treat with a primer.

Second phase internal thermal insulation- installation of a subsystem of wooden bars or metal profiles. The frame plays the role of a platform for the finishing device - drywall, false ceiling and so on. Polystyrene boards are attached directly to the concrete surface with an adhesive mixture and dowels-umbrellas.

Reference. Performing thermal insulation of balconies and loggias with extruded polystyrene, craftsmen often do without a subsystem - they glue or screw the plates to the ceiling in a continuous layer. Reiki under inner lining fastened to the concrete floor through the insulation with special screws - dowels.

How to insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling in a private house from the inside:

1. After preparing the surface and assembling the frame (or without it), prepare the adhesive building mix according to the instructions on the container.
2. Apply glue to the foam board and press it to the surface, hold for a while. Fasten the next element end-to-end with the previous one, do the next row with a shift relative to the first.
   
3. When the mixture hardens, additionally fix the polymer plates with dowels in the form of umbrellas. It is advisable to blow the joints with mounting foam.

   The right photo shows the option of mounting the EPPS together with the false ceiling frame under the gypsum plasterboard

4. Cover the ceiling with a vapor barrier, observing the overlaps and gluing the joints. The film or "Penofol" is aimed at the subsystem with a stapler.
   
5. Lay the edges of the film on the walls and glue with building sealant. Install the slats of the crate and proceed to the finish.

Advice. Do not screw "Penoplex" to the ceiling without glue. Firstly, there will be gaps under the insulation, and secondly, you need to perfectly level the surface. Otherwise, differences of 1-3 mm will appear at the joints of the plates.

External insulation of reinforced concrete slabs polymeric materials used on flat roofs and operated attics. The "pie" on the roof is formed like this:

The technology for mounting polystyrene insulators from below to the ceiling is shown in detail in the video:

Of course, you can insulate reinforced concrete from the inside with mineral wool, and the ceiling of a log house with polystyrene foam. Then take additional measures: carefully isolate the mineral wool from the room, and blow mounting foam between the polymer and wood - it allows air to pass through and prevents decay.

Finally, backfilling the attic

Use of bulk materials - the simplest option ceiling insulation country house, although not the most efficient. Thermal insulation is carried out on top of the floor in various ways:

If you have an auger concrete mixer at your disposal, you can prepare a more modern ceiling insulation - polystyrene concrete. Cement-sand mortar mixed with polystyrene balls and laid on the ceiling with a layer of 200-300 mm. You don’t have to lay the flooring - the monolith has sufficient strength.

Note. A mistake was made on the video - it is not necessary to lay the film under bulk materials. Water vapor (especially in the bath) should freely escape through expanded clay or sawdust concrete to the outside, and the tree should dry thoroughly.

Updated: 19.09.2019 11:10:36

Judge: Boris Mendel

*Overview of the best in the opinion of the editors of the site. About selection criteria. This material is subjective, is not an advertisement and does not serve as a guide to the purchase. Before buying, you need to consult with a specialist.

The ceiling between the unheated attic and living rooms needs to be further insulated. This process is carried out both from above (the material is laid above the ceiling along the logs) and from below (insulation is attached from the side of the heated room and sewn up with decorative panels). We have prepared a rating the best materials for ceiling insulation, which are suitable for different types installation. Experts analyzed the characteristics of the insulation and reviews to them, which will help you choose the best material for the price, ease of installation and insulating properties.

Rating of the best materials for ceiling insulation

Mineral wool

The first place in the ranking is occupied by mineral wool. This is the name of the material obtained by melting basalt rocks, therefore, the product can be found on sale under the designation "stone" or "basalt" wool. Warming is achieved due to the formation of thin villi, tightly intertwined with each other. At the same time, the material is light, flexible and with high insulating properties. Mineral wool is produced in rolls or square slabs. It is convenient to choose it for insulating the ceiling along the height of the thermal insulation - there are options from 50 to 200 mm. The density of the insulation is from 11 to 200 kg / m³. The higher this indicator, the better material keep the cold out. Buyers in the reviews share that cotton wool is easy to cut and does not need to be accurately sized - the extra edges are simply compressed and inserted between the ceiling beams.

Our experts awarded the material the first place in the ranking, since mineral wool has one of the lowest thermal conductivity values. Depending on the density, it varies from 0.033 to 0.040 W/m*K. This option of ceiling insulation is also as safe as possible, because cotton wool is environmentally friendly and does not burn.

Advantages

• absolutely does not burn;
• the insulation is not subject to decay;
• rodents are indifferent to him;
• light weight is optimal for ceiling construction.

Flaws

• insulation is hydrophobic (absorbs water);
• when mounting from below to the ceiling, a sufficient number of supports is necessary, otherwise it will sag;
• shrinks over time.

Penofol

The second place in the rating was taken by penofol - a material consisting of polyethylene foam and a screen. The reflective part is made of foil, 14 microns thick. Due to this design, the insulation easily bends and follows the contour of the surface. She insulates the ceiling of the house both from the side of the attic and from the residential part. The product is produced in rolls and is available in height from 10 to 20 mm. The thermal conductivity indicator is slightly inferior to the leader of the rating and is 0.049 W / m * K. Buyers in the reviews like the ease of transporting the material, because 50 m is placed in one roll at once. Penofol is attached to a special glue that does not have a very pleasant smell, so ceiling insulation work should be carried out in a well-ventilated area.

Experts put the insulation in second place in the rating for its reflective ability. Thanks to the foil layer, heat is returned back to the room. In the case of insulation of the ceiling with foam foam with two screens, a double effect occurs, contributing to the reflection of the increased temperature in the summer from the room, which will keep cool.

Advantages

• a small height of 10-20 mm is practical for houses with low ceilings (does not take up much space);
• easily bends and takes any shape, which is convenient for warming relief ceilings(for example, where the beams go inside the room);
• low water absorption;
• reflective ability.

Flaws

• the side with polyethylene burns and emits acrid smoke;
• there are many low-quality fakes on sale;
• high price;
• it will not cope on its own in cold regions (it will need to be used in tandem with another heater).

Styrofoam

In third place in the ranking is expanded polystyrene, which is a material filled with gas. Produce insulation from polystyrene and copolymers. Unlike regular styrofoam, which is steam-treated, resulting in large cells, styrofoam undergoes an extrusion process in which the substance is passed through a hole with a small cross section. Thanks to this technology, a heater with small pores and a homogeneous structure is obtained. When insulating the ceiling, the plates are cut with a knife. In bending, they are 6 times stronger than polystyrene, but still break. But the material is ahead of competitors in density - the minimum value starts from 27 kg / m³. Most often, goods with an indicator of 35 kg / m³ are on sale. It is possible to apply ceiling insulation in liquid form along the logs in the attic, but this requires specialized equipment.

According to our experts, the material has earned a place in the rating due to the large selection of plate heights. On sale are available options with 20, 30, 40, 50 mm in cross section. The thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is also ahead of mineral wool: they will have the same effect with a thickness of 30 and 57 mm, respectively. But in terms of strength and ease of installation, it loses to the leader of the rating. In the reviews, the owners praise the ceiling insulation for the presence of grooves that allow you to mount a solid surface.

Advantages

• not afraid of water and steam;
• does not crumble when cutting;
• homogeneous structure;
• a large selection of cross-sectional options;
• density from 27 kg/m³.

Flaws

• takes up a lot of space during transportation;
• emits toxic smoke when burned;
• you need to more accurately adjust the dimensions of the ceiling;
• low bending strength.

Penoizol

The fourth place in the ranking belongs to penoizol, which is one of the varieties of foam. The material is called urea-formaldehyde foam. It is formed from foam and resin, enveloping each cell with air. A hardener (orthophosphoric acid) is added to the composition, so the applied mass hardens. Most often, penoizol is applied in liquid form, for which they hire craftsmen with a special installation or purchase an apparatus and perform all the manipulations on their own. Users in the reviews like the affordable cost of insulation and the fact that the material does not create pressure on the walls of the structure. After polymerization of the substance, the logs and beams are not deformed.

We noted this material in the rating as the best for insulating large area ceilings and with complex relief. Penoizol is supplied from the installation in the form of a mass resembling shaving foam in consistency, so the substance fills bottlenecks and crevices well. But they can insulate the ceiling only from the side of the roof.

Advantages

• the material does not burn;
• finely dispersed foam is not attractive to rodents;
• thanks to the supply in liquid form, you can create any height of insulation;
• relatively cheap way insulate the ceiling.

Flaws

• high water absorption (18-20% by weight);
• additional finishing is required to protect the ceiling from moisture;
• when destroyed, it releases formaldehydes and urea;
• possible shrinkage and microcracks after solidification.

Foil polyethylene foam

In fifth place in the ranking is foil polyethylene foam. As the name implies, it consists of foamed polyethylene, duplicated with aluminum foil. But the screen is located only on one side. Ceiling insulation material is produced in rolls and can be: not stitched, chemically stitched and physically stitched. The most famous manufacturer of such a product is the Izolon brand, whose name has become a household name and now refers to the material. Buyers in the reviews like that foil polyethylene foam can be attached different ways: stapler, self-tapping screws, glue. Due to the screen, up to 95% of the heat is reflected from the ceiling and returned back to the room. Good sound insulation with a small cross section of 5-8 mm. Density varies from 20 to 200 kg/m³.

We included the material for insulation in the rating, since it is well suited for mounting on the ceiling in wet areas (kitchen, sauna, bathroom). The foil not only reflects heat, but also resists water penetration. There are types of isolon with PET film, which increases the life of the insulation and prevents screen corrosion.

Advantages

• environmentally friendly;
• reflective effect;
• good sound insulation;
• convenient transportation in rolls.

Flaws

• happens only in small sections of 5-8 mm;
• in cold regions, use in tandem with other insulation will be required;
• thermal conductivity 0.051 W/m*K.

Styrofoam

In sixth place in the ranking is the material known to everyone since childhood - polystyrene foam. For manufacturing, a polymer subject to foaming is used. This forms large cells with thin walls. Most the insulation is gas, so the foam plates are light - they can be mounted on the ceiling both from the inside of the room and from the side of the attic. For installation, building sealant (foam in cans) is used. Blocks are produced with a thickness of 10 to 100 mm, which is convenient for selecting the height of the insulation and the degree of insulation. But when cutting with a knife, the plate crumbles, which delays the laying process. Additionally, the joints must be filled with foam, otherwise "cold bridges" will form there.

The experts added the material to the rating due to the most affordable price in the category. With the help of polystyrene, insulation of the ceiling will not require a lot of money from the family budget. Due to the thin walls between the cells, the heat transfer process slows down significantly. Masters in the reviews like the product due to the absence of dust when laying, as is the case with mineral wool.

Advantages

• affordable price;
• skips steam;
• there is no shrinkage;
• does not put pressure on ceiling structure;
• various options in thickness (10-100 mm).

Flaws

• for fixing to the ceiling from the side of the room, mounting foam is needed;
• emits toxic smoke when burned;
• during installation, time is spent on sealing "cold bridges";
• precise cutting to size is required;
• crumbling corners.

Attention! This rating is subjective, is not an advertisement and does not serve as a purchase guide. Before buying, you need to consult with a specialist.