Do-it-yourself country toilet - Personal experience. Do-it-yourself toilet in the country from blocks From a cinder block toilet

In the country, you need a toilet and a shower, because only thanks to these facilities you can spend time with relative comfort on your own site. Do you agree? And they should be built even before the start of garden work.

If not centralized systems water supply and sewerage (and usually it happens), you need to think over the project of a country toilet with a shower with a separate cesspool. The best option is combined buildings with a partition under one roof. We will tell you what a joint toilet and shower project should be like and what it will take to implement it.

The article sets out useful advice from experienced specialists on how to properly draw up a project and build a joint building with your own hands. The material is accompanied by thematic videos that will help to implement the drafted project in practice, as well as enrich it with new ideas.

The combined shower and toilet is one building under common roof. The rooms are separated only by a wall, and the entrance to each of them is separate. A tank is placed above the shower. It is installed on the roof and water is supplied through pipes, a faucet and a watering can are mounted.

If a washbasin is provided in the toilet, then water should come into it from a common tank. In the same way, water is brought to the toilet if they decide to install a standard toilet with a flush.

However, such plumbing fixtures are rarely installed in the country, much more often they get by with a standard “hole in the floor” with a cesspool.

Before building a structure with a cesspool, you should make sure that it will not poison the lives of your neighbors. Otherwise, conflicts, litigation, fines of state fire supervision and technical supervision services are not excluded

If a cesspool is used to accumulate wastewater from the toilet and shower, it should be located at least 20-25 m from the source drinking water. In areas where it is not possible to comply with the norms, it is necessary to carefully concrete the bottom of the pit.

This is to avoid accidental contamination of drinking water with faecal bacteria.

A toilet with a shower is built at a distance of 10 m from residential buildings (both their own and neighboring ones). Violation of sanitary standards in this case threatens with flooding of foundations and basements if the pit is overflowing during spring floods and / or depressurizes. The distance to the fence should be at least 1-3 m.

When planning the location of a pit toilet, one should take into account the distances not only to buildings, but also to communications:

• to asbestos-cement pipes - 5 m or more;
• to cast-iron pipes with a diameter of less than 20 cm - 1.5 m;
• to cast-iron pipes over 20 cm - 3 m;
• to gas - 5 m and more.

It happens that the site is too small or its location does not allow even the minimum distances between objects recommended by SNiP to be maintained. In this case, it is worth consulting the BTI on how to resolve this issue.

Building a toilet and shower under one roof has several significant advantages:

• compactness. Dacha is a place not only for recreation, but also for growing vegetables, fruits, berries. Every square meter should be used with maximum efficiency. The construction of a combined structure solves the problem of lack of space.
• Saving building materials. Any construction is a cost, and the lower they are, the better. The foundation is especially expensive. If it is one for two rooms, this is already a cost reduction. If we add more savings on roofing materials and load-bearing walls, the benefit is obvious.
• Time saving. The construction of two structures takes much more time than the construction of one. You get two vital structures in almost the same time as one, because. the most energy-intensive work (digging pits, pouring foundations) is done immediately for both structures.
• One drain hole. The arrangement of a drain pit requires effort, time and money. If she is alone, this is a significant savings. An additional plus is less unpleasant odors on the site, because. "Fragrant" zone is also only one.

There is only one serious drawback, but a big one: when bathing in the shower, the smell from the toilet may bother you, but this is a solvable problem. If the ventilation pipe is brought above the roof of the building, unpleasant odors can be avoided altogether.

There is a video below that details the odorless toilet ventilation design.

The toilet and pit shower need periodic maintenance. You will have to negotiate with the sewage services and arrange the building so that the length of the hose is enough to pump out sewage, and equip access roads for the car

Before building a summer shower, you should carefully consider how water will be drawn into the tank. The ideal option is a pump and a hose.

If it is not possible to pump water from the source to the tank, it will have to be carried in buckets by hand and lifted to the roof of the building, and this is quite difficult. To facilitate the work, you need to plan wide comfortable paths.

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Often, leaky brick pits are also built. In this case, a filter bottom is made, and the brick is placed in a checkerboard pattern, leaving gaps. Such structures do not waterproof, because. water goes into the ground, and only silt remains in the pit itself, which needs to be removed occasionally.

Difficulties may arise with the waterproofing of a brick pit, because. bituminous mastics are not always durable. Their service life depends on many factors: composition, correct application, operating conditions, climate

A sealed pit is best built from cast-in-place concrete or reinforced concrete well rings. For use penetrating compounds or bitumen, bitumen-polymer mastics.

Combinations of different types of materials are possible to create a durable and reliable waterproofing layer.

Volumetric barrels with a bottom (for sealed ones) or without it (for filtering ones) are installed as cesspools. To familiarize yourself with the scheme, calculations and rules for arranging a pit from a barrel, go to.

You can also build a structure from improvised materials, for example, from old used ones. There are a lot of options, especially if the drain from the shower is equipped separately.

Arrangement of a toilet without a cesspool

Sometimes it is not possible to build a cesspool due to the proximity of the aquifer. Then you can deduce drain pipe from the shower to the compost heap and put a dry closet or powder closet. Dry closets are sold ready-made. They are suitable for installation both outdoors and indoors.

Powder closet is a structure with a small sealed pit in which sewage is sprinkled with peat. The pit is cleaned regularly, taking out its contents on the compost. If the cottage is not inhabited during the entire summer season, this is a good option.

To make it more convenient to use the powder closet, they make a toilet seat with a lid, and the waste container is masked with sheathing. It is best to provide a special door for removing the tank. Ventilation is a must.

Although powder closet is not particularly convenient to use, you do not have to worry about soil and groundwater contamination, because. impurities do not seep into the ground

Relatively recently, an interesting modern variety powder closet - peat toilet. The principle of its operation is the same, but the peat tank is located right inside the structure. When it is full, it is removed and cleaned. The toilet is then ready for use again.

Let's analyze an example of the construction of a complex from a shower room with a toilet for a summer residence, located in a frame building 3 m long, 1.5 m wide:

In addition to the materials listed, you will need clamps to fix the lining, they will need about 300 pieces, the same number of wood screws, OSB sheet 1 m², hinges for hanging doors, linoleum

An example of the construction of a utility block with a toilet without cesspool will help you understand the intricacies of the process:

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The bottom of a shallow pit, no more than 0.5 m deep, is covered with a layer of sand, leveled and rammed. We install paving slabs on a leveled area, then gas silicate or foam concrete blocks, We set them according to the level

From a bar 100 × 100 mm we construct a harness. We simply lay the longitudinal elements on the supports, measure the length of the crossbars in fact and note the dimensions of the cut in half a tree

We fix the lower trim on the supports with anchors. Having measured the dimensions of the cuts in fact, in order to install ordinary logs, we cut them down and install

We impregnate all the details of a wooden building. In the example, the antiseptic Senezh was used, 5 liters of liquid is enough for a complete treatment

We install vertical frame supports made of 100 × 50 mm timber. We fasten them to the lower trim with metal mounting corners. We fix the position of the supports with temporary braces in order to accurately make the upper trim

From the side of the main facade, on the upper trim, we put short supports sawn at an angle. We lay rafters and a crate on them and on the rear strapping beam

We sew up the floor with a board 100 × 40 mm. We mark the length of the floorboards in fact. In the case of assembling a floorboard from two segments, we try to ensure that the seams in adjacent rows do not coincide, but fit into a run

In the two extreme spans, we install a strapping made of timber, into which the door frames will be mounted. We sheathe the building with clapboard from the bottom up, placing the elements up with a comb

Step 1: Installing the Support Posts for the Frame

Step 2: Assembling the bottom trim of the frame building

Step 3: Arrangement of the basis of the floor of the hozblok

Step 4: Treatment of wooden components with impregnation

Step 5: Installing the vertical racks of the frame

Step 6: Building the frame for the roof device

Step 7: Laying the board on the base of the lower floor

Step 8: Sheathing the frame of the sanitary complex

Having completed the cladding of the facade and the back wall, we proceed to the installation of windows, the installation of doors and the arrangement of the internal space:

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In the side walls of the building we build a strapping from a bar for installing window frames

We sheathe the side walls with clapboard. We install in the doorways made according to the actual dimensions of the box with the canvas

According to the actual dimensions of the windows, we prepare glazing beads, with which we will fix the glass in the frame

We install glass in window frames, fix the window elements that conduct light with pre-prepared glazing beads

We assemble the frame for the construction of the toilet seat. The height of the vertical supports is calculated taking into account the convenience of using the toilet

We sheathe the toilet seat with OSB or plywood. We put the top panel on hinges so that the resulting box can be opened to remove the filled container

We paste over the floor and toilet seat with linoleum - an easy-to-care material that is resistant to chlorine-containing agents

In the compartment with the toilet, we install a seat with a toilet cover. In the shower compartment we drill a drain hole, put a tray with a siphon, the outlet from which we bring out into the hole

Step 9: Window Strapping Device

Step 10: Sheathing the side walls and hanging the doors

Step 11: Preparing window glazing beads

Step 12: Glazing the windows of the country hozblok

Step 13: Assembling the frame for the construction of the toilet seat

Step 14: Sheathing the toilet seat frame with sheet material

Step 15: Pasting the floor and toilet seat with linoleum

Step 16: Finishing shower complex with toilet

Self-construction toilet with shower

Consider the option of building a toilet with a summer shower made of wood with your own hands. The structure is relatively light, it can be installed on almost any soil. It will require columnar foundation.

The roof can be equipped with a gable roof and covered with metal tiles or other suitable material.

If desired, under a gable roof, you can equip additional space like an attic for storing the necessary little things or garden tools

Before starting construction, you need to purchase materials:

• bars (for upper and lower trim, vertical supports, roof frame);
• edged boards (for lathing, subfloor);
• OSB-sheets (for finished floor, ceiling);
• pipes (for sewerage and ventilation);
• plywood (for formwork);
• metal tile (for the roof);
• bulk materials - gravel or crushed stone, sand;
• metal corners (for fastening bars).

Lumber must be dry (permissible humidity is not higher than 22%). There should be no defects on the boards and beams: knots, cracks, signs of fungus damage.

Stage # 1 - arrangement of a cesspool and foundation

To begin with, the site is marked out for a foundation and a cesspool, after which earthworks begin. A pit is dug under the pit with a perimeter of 1 x 1.5 m, a depth of 1.5 to 2 m. The walls are reinforced with either concrete or brickwork, and the bottom is concreted.

When the pit is ready, you can start building the foundation. Small holes (20 cm) with a depth of 0.8 m are made under it. A sand cushion (10 cm) is placed on the bottom of the holes and carefully rammed.

To strengthen concrete, 3-5 reinforcement bars are installed. To keep them well, they can be connected with strong metal wire.

Formwork, reinforcement are installed in the finished holes, poured concrete pillars and leave for 2-3 days to solidify the material. After that, you can already remove the formwork. If it is hot outside, it makes sense to cover the concrete for a drying period so that it does not crack due to the rapid evaporation of moisture.

Stage # 2 - construction of the structure

A drain pipe is installed under the shower so that moisture does not accumulate under the structure and does not destroy its lower part. After that, you can start building the lower trim.

The bars are connected with wooden elements, and attached to concrete with metal studs. Above the pit, a metal frame is made from a channel.

For the construction of walls, a frame of beams is installed in the corners, and two pillars are placed in the place of the doorway at a distance of 77 cm from each other. If everything is installed correctly, you can proceed to the arrangement of the upper harness. It is attached to self-tapping screws, metal corners and plates.

A ridge board is attached to the upper harness. Rafters are made of boards with a step of 65 cm, after which a crate is installed. Boards should protrude 20 cm beyond the edges vertical design. Later they will serve as a visor. Next, wind boards are fixed and the roof is covered with metal tiles.

The position of all vertical elements is leveled. There should be no deviations, because this threatens to quickly collapse the finished structure

The floor is laid from boards with a thickness of at least 4 cm. They are fixed with self-tapping screws to the bottom harness. They immediately make a “step” frame for the future elevation and sheathe it with boards 2 cm thick.

It remains to insulate the structure with foam plastic and blow out the cracks with building foam. The outer walls and ceiling are sheathed with boards.

Stage # 3 - arrangement of the shower and toilet

To equip the drain system, they dig a ditch and lay a sewer pipe, which is connected to the drain. The floors in the shower are covered with rubble, reducing the thickness of its layer near the drain hole.

Crushed stone is poured with concrete so that after solidification a floor is obtained with a uniform slope to the drain from all sides. The surface is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

A wooden floor is laid on top of the concrete floor with a distance between the boards of 1.5-2 cm. The walls are sheathed with boards and treated with waterproofing agents and antiseptics.

After that, all surfaces are opened with two layers of yacht varnish. The wood of the outer skin is treated in the same way.

The surface of the concrete floor must be smooth so that water does not linger in the recesses and freely drains into the drain.

🔨 A country toilet is easy to do with your own hands, if you make some efforts and efforts. We have selected drawings with dimensions for popular country toilets that will last you for decades! Also in the article is waiting for you step by step photo instruction for the construction of a country toilet.

The most time-consuming step in the process of building a latrine will be digging a pit, but this work can also be done. The aesthetic side of the building is a secondary issue, the most important thing is to properly arrange a cesspool and create a reliable foundation for an above-ground structure.

It should be noted that some owners of suburban areas do not build a toilet according to the rules and manage with an ordinary bucket substituted under the toilet seat. But, one way or another, waste products need to be put somewhere, so you still can’t do without a capital pit. Therefore, it is better to do all the work correctly once and not return to this issue for many years. It is especially important to make a capital building if the residents spend a significant part of the year in the country.

When if if you don’t want to spoil the design of the territory of the site by installing it, then you can hide it in the far corner behind the house, or you can come up with a design for it that will help to organically fit the building into the landscape.

Choosing a place for a closet and its design

Usually the toilet is installed closer to the far boundary of the site, and this is understandable, since at least a slight smell will be present in or near this room. But sometimes they use another option, arranging a cesspool near the house, and a free corner of the house is allocated for the toilet, leading a wide sewer pipe into the pit. This design is mainly used in cases where water is supplied to the house, and there are plans to install an insulated container for collecting waste.

In any case, you should adhere to the standards established by the sanitary and epidemiological services. They must be observed in order to protect yourself, neighbors and environment from unwanted consequences such as infectious diseases or soil contamination.

• If a cesspool is arranged, it must be located at a distance of at least 30 m from water sources, and its depth should not reach groundwater.
• If a septic tank is installed, then it is located no closer than 15 m from the house.
• If you plan to use an insulated container, which will be cleaned as it fills cesspool machine, then it can be installed anywhere, since the waste will not flow into the ground.

An isolated capacitance is also an option when ground water do not go too deep and the construction of a cesspool dug in the ground is impossible.

Usually the pits of the simplest country toilet have an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout one square meter. If the pit comes off round, then its diameter should be approximately 1 m. Its depth is 1.5-2 m, depending on the depth of groundwater.

After the place for the pit is determined, you can proceed to the choice of toilet design.

• The first thing to consider is the weight of the structure - it will largely be determined by the material that is planned to be used for construction. The house itself should not be too heavy, because over time, the soil under its weight may begin to sag and, in the end, the building will deform and be damaged.

Good for building wooden bars and boards, or thin metal - galvanized profiles and corrugated board.

If it is decided to build a toilet booth from logs or bricks, then you will have to think about a well-fortified foundation. But there is absolutely no need to build such heavy buildings, since they still will not become warmer than light buildings. It's better if it's necessary thermally insulate the room with heaters that are light in weight, for example, foam. Such a building will be both light and warm, not blown through during the cold season, and it will not be excessively hot in it in summer.

• Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the size of the booth.

Typically, a standard toilet has a width of 1 m, a height of 2.3 m, and a room length of 1.3 ÷ 1.5 m. However, these dimensions are by no means a dogma and may well vary. In any case, the room should be comfortable for any family member to be in it, both standing and sitting.

What will be required to build a toilet

Having decided on the design and placement of the toilet, they acquire necessary materials for its construction. A wooden or metal "house" can be bought ready-made. If you decide to build it yourself, then you will need the following materials:

• Boards and wooden blocks.
• Fasteners - nails and screws.
• Metal corners to reinforce the structure of the wooden frame.
• Door handle, hook or latch to close the door.
• Roof covering material - slate or corrugated board.
• Plastic or wooden toilet seat with a lid.
• At necessary - foamst for insulation of the booth, and material for inner lining insulated walls, chipboard, thin board or plywood.

For the device of the cesspool you will need:

• Cement, crushed stone, sand.
• Reinforcement to strengthen the foundation of the house.
• A metal chain-link mesh for covering the pit and metal brackets or pins for attaching this mesh to the ground.

Another option, instead of a grid and plastering it with concrete, may be a brick, which is lined with the walls of the pit.

In addition, for the device of the pit, they often use those that have holes in the walls. Many summer residents prefer old rubber tires of large sizes.

Another, the most environmentally friendly option, can be ready-made capacity- septic. They are produced in different sizes, so you can choose the right one, depending on the number of family members and the length of the period of residence in the country.

Naturally, when building a country toilet, you can’t do without tools, so you need to have:

• A hand drill that can help when digging a pit.
• Shovel and bayonet shovel, with a length and a short handle.
• If the soil in the area is rocky, you may need a rock drill.
• Hammer and screwdriver.
• Grinder - "Bulgarian" with discs for stone and metal.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Marking tool - ruler, tape measure, square, building level, pencil or marker.

Prices for popular septic tanks

Cesspool device

Toilet classification
by type of waste disposal

Of course, they always start with marking and digging a hole. It will have a square or round shape, depending on the chosen design.

1. If a two-chamber plastic septic tank will be installed, then the pit is dug in such a way that the inlet pipe is located directly in the toilet cubicle, since a toilet seat will be mounted on it. The neck of the second chamber should remain outside the room - it is needed for regular pumping of accumulated fecal matter.

There are tanks different shapes, and the dimensions and shape of the pit will depend on this. The size of the pit must be made 20-30 cm larger than the existing capacity, since the soil must be well compacted around it.

2. If the walls of the pit will be finished with concrete or brick, it can be made round or square.

• After digging a hole of the required depth, at its bottom it is necessary to arrange drainage from large rubble, stones, fragments of bricks
• Then, its walls are covered with a metal chain-link mesh with cells measuring 50 × 50 mm. The mesh is fixed by driving into the ground with steel wire shackles or pins.
• To make the walls stronger, you can additionally reinforce the walls with a metal grate with large cells 100 × 100 mm.
• Further, by the method of throwing, a concrete solution is applied to the walls, which is left until it dries completely. The total thickness of the concrete layer should be about 50 ÷ 80 mm.
• After setting the first layer, the walls are plastered to a smooth state with the same concrete mortar. The plastered hole is left to dry.
• The pit is covered with either a finished reinforced concrete slab, or made locally. It will serve as a foundation for the toilet and a platform around it.
• Boards are laid on the pit, which should go beyond its limits by 700 ÷ 800 mm and be sunk into the ground to the same level with the ground. Boards must be treated with antiseptic agents. This wooden substrate under the foundation can be completely replaced with concrete columns.

• Two holes are left on the surface for installing a toilet seat and for a cesspool, which should later be covered with a lid. Formwork is installed around future holes.
• A dense polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future foundation.
• Reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which is enclosed in formwork around the entire perimeter of the future foundation.

• The height of the hole formwork must be the same as that of the entire foundation formwork. Formwork boards will serve as beacons when leveling the surface.
• The concrete solution is mixed, poured onto the site, leveled and left to dry. For the durability and strength of the outer concrete layer, it is possible, after the initial setting, to “ironize” the wet surface with dry cement.

• On the finished site after its full maturation, it will be possible to install a booth for the toilet. A hatch must be arranged on the hole intended for pumping out accumulated waste. You can buy it at the store or make your own. The hatch cover should be easy to open and close.

3. Another option would be a round pit with car tires laid in it. But it should be noted that this type of cesspool is not suitable for permanent use. Such a toilet can only be used in country conditions, when residents come only occasionally, for example, on weekends, otherwise the collected waste will often have to be pumped out.

• For a cesspool of this type, a round pit is dug 150 ÷ ​​200 mm larger than the diameter of the existing tires.
• A drainage layer with a thickness of 15–20 cm is laid at the bottom of the pit.
• Then, tires are laid exactly in the middle of the pit. on the to the other to the ground.
• Around the tires, as they are laid, drainage from crushed stone and sand is filled up and compacted. This process is carried out to the very top.
• When the tires are fully stowed, a shallow hole can be arranged around the pit. strip foundation. To do this, a trench about 500 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the future toilet, into which concrete will be poured.
• trench bottom compacted and covered with a layer of sand of 50 ÷ 70 mm, which is also compacted and closed with a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.
• The waterproofing is made of dense polyethylene.
• Then you can proceed in two ways:

– weld and install the reinforcing grid, mount the formwork 100 ÷ 150 mm high above ground level and then pour concrete mortar;

- lay out the foundation of brick, and then plaster it with cement.

• After the mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the cement foundation, and the brick is leveled from above.
• A roofing material is laid on its surface, which will separate the concrete surface from the wooden one.
• A finished toilet structure is either installed on the foundation, or it is built independently.

For the convenience of the construction process, a wooden base-frame made of powerful bars is first fixed to the foundation, and other structural elements will be mounted on it, depending on the chosen building model.

4. It is impossible not to mention one more way to equip a cesspool - using metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed one on top of the other and in the same way as in the previous case. Around the resulting pipe, a gravel mixture or a mixture of sand and crushed stone is tamped.

Cesspool of metal barrels - obviously will not last long

Prices for country toilets

country toilet

It would seem that the method is simple in execution, but it has much more disadvantages than advantages. Metal barrels under aggressive influence both from the inside and outside, from the side of the ground, corrode very quickly, and such a toilet will last for a very short time.

Popular country toilet projects

Construction of a country toilet house

When both the pit and the platform for installing the toilet room are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the house according to a pre-compiled scheme.

Toilet houses can have a wide variety of forms, for example, even in the form of a fabulous hut. The uninitiated will not immediately determine what kind of room it fits so perfectly into landscape design site. It is quite possible to do such a structure with your own hands, knowing the scheme of its assembly.

The photo shows an option partially made of logs, which give this building a decorative effect, mask the purpose of the building itself.

The original teremok - you will not immediately understand that this is a toilet

The diagram shows the basis for building a log cabin, only boards are used instead of logs. You can clearly see how the walls are assembled and the roof slopes rise. Allocated interior space and selected location toilet seat.

Approximate scheme "teremka"

The next step will be the roof lathing, roofing and wall cladding with the material chosen for this - it can be either wood or metal.

Such a house can either be installed on a cesspool, or used as a room for a dry closet.

Video: making a house - "teremka" for a country toilet

Another version of the structure of the toilet, which is called the "hut". In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls are also a roof. The form is quite simple, so it will not be difficult to build a building.

Toilet - "hut"

This design is not only easy to build, but also convenient to use - it is stable at the base and quite spacious inside.

Installation of a toilet - "hut"

The picture shows everything internal structure house, the place of installation of the toilet seat and the method of lathing the walls-roof. Sheathing of the front part of the building and the rear wall has begun. The “hut” house can be placed on an equipped cesspool, as in this case, or it can also be used as a room for a dry closet.

This form of the house can be called traditional, since most often it can be found on the plots. But even such a simple design can be decorated according to your preference.

For example, it was decided to make a toilet in this backyard territory under a Japanese house. This is evidenced by hieroglyphs written on a tablet hanging on chains, a Japanese lantern at the entrance, and even an additionally arranged roof. In addition, the interior design of the room is also designed in the general style.

A similar attitude to the design of the site suggests that even from such a structure as, you can make a small work of art if you make a little effort.

An approximate scheme for the construction of such a toilet is shown in the figure. It clearly shows the arrangement of a cesspool, the installation of a toilet structure and a hatch for cleaning on top of it. The design is quite simple in the device, and it is not difficult to build it. But in order for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the ligaments of all parts among themselves.

The interior space of the toilet, arranged above the cesspool, in the process of building walls, may look like this. That is, the base bars are installed on the foundation, on which the frame of the future structure is fixed.

After the final finishing of the toilet from the inside, the room can have such a neat and cozy look.

If desired and opportunities can come up with another design for a country toilet, but do everything interior decoration need from warm materials. Not recommended for decoration ceramic tiles, since this is a very cold type of material, and besides this, in winter time the tile becomes also very slippery.

Video: several options for a country toilet device

dry closet

If there is no way to build a country toilet, or there is simply no desire to contact construction work you can use the dry closet. This option will save you from digging a hole and, possibly, from installing a house.

Dry closet - an excellent solution for country conditions

- this is an autonomous toilet that does not require a separate room or connection to branch communications

The dry closet consists of two compartments-chambers, the upper of which plays the role of a toilet bowl, and the other serves for biological processing waste. In the second, lower chamber, there are active substances that decompose feces and turn them into a homogeneous mass that has no smell. The action of the bioactive liquid for the decomposition of waste is enough for ten days, then the chamber is cleaned by pouring the contents into the central sewer or into the soil. The method of disposal will depend on which active substances will be used in the dry closet. These substances are t three types: composting, chemical and microorganic. Each of them is suitable for a certain type of dry closet.

• For a composting dry closet, peat is used as an active substance. It has a high absorbency - for example, one kilogram of peat absorbs ten liters of liquid. The odorless compost obtained from active processes is perfect for fertilizing garden beds.

Usually, complete with such a dry closet, there are tons of ventilation pipes that divert unpleasant odors during processing.

• The dry closet, whose work is based on the use of chemicals, has an indicator that will indicate that the container needs to be cleaned. Waste processed in this way is discharged into the sewer in order to protect the environment. For such models, special substances with non-freezing properties are produced.
• The third type of this useful device is a dry closet, in which microorganisms are involved in the processing of waste, turning them into compost. The resulting material is environmentally friendly and harmless to soil and animals, so it will not be ore to dispose of it.

Advantages and disadvantages of a dry closet

• high levels of environmental safety;
• ease of use;
• lack of unpleasant odors;
• affordable price;
• durable material.

• odor leakage is possible, installation in a ventilated area is required;
• if the receiver tank is very dirty, you will have to wash it yourself.
• in rooms with low temperatures, it is not possible to use a peat dry closet. From the cold, all processing processes stop, the contents of the lower reservoir freezes, as well as the peat itself. The problem is solved by transferring the dry closet to a warm room.

If desired, a bio-toilet can be installed in the most ordinary, self-built room, which is located in the yard, and on winter period- bring it into the house, taking a convenient corner for these needs.

Prices for a popular range of dry closets

Dry closets

Biological products for toilets

To help the owners of summer cottages with pit latrines on their territory, developed special means similar to those used in dry closets.

Before using the product, it is necessary to study the instructions, as the composition is poured or poured in parts. How to use such substances correctly can be found in the information on the package, since each agent is dosed differently. Such a substance is used, as a rule, very sparingly. For example, one package or a can of some funds is enough for a year for a cesspool with a volume of 3.5 ÷ 4 tons.

So, there are many ways to solve the problem of a country toilet - there is always the opportunity to choose one or another option.

I would like to share with you, dear readers, the experience of building a country toilet.

It all started with the fact that my old toilet began to slowly go underground, and so that at one fine moment it would not go away during the meeting, along with the construction, it was decided to build a new toilet, or, as I called it, "Rossortirbank".

Construction material:

1. Cement - 15 bags;
2. Sand;
3. stones;
4. Glass fittings 8 mm - 50 meters;
5. Plywood 9 mm -4 sheets;
6. Cinder block 84 pcs;
7. Bar 10x10 -6 meters;
8. Unedged board 4 meters -7 pcs;
9. Board 40 mm (on the floor) -6 pieces of 1.7m each;
10. Ondulin (Bitumen flexible slate) -6 sheets;
11. Sewer pipe - 3 meters;
12. Toilet seat - 1pc;
13. Slate nails;
14. self-tapping screws;

Tool:

1. Concrete mixer;
2. Plane;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Chainsaw;
5. Jigsaw;
6. Bulgarian;
7. A hammer;
8. Level;
9. Trowel;
10. Shovel;
11. Bucket;
12. Roulette;
13. Pencil;

1. Pit

Started to spend excavation- dig a hole. I spent 4 days on this, it couldn’t be longer, because my soil is sandy and the edges of the pit were constantly crumbling. Dimensions: width 1.7 m, length 1.7 m, depth 2 m. It was decided to fill the walls of the pit with concrete. This was decided due to the fact that the ground is sandy and any wood or even metal in it rots very quickly. After that, I began to make formwork from plywood, which I had left from making floors in the house.

He twisted the mesh of glass reinforcement and put it in the pit.

Started filling the hole with concrete. I mixed everything myself. Composition of concrete: Cement 1 part, sand 3 parts, 1 part stones. The benefit of the sand under your feet at least eat. I also made a gutter from old tin for convenient pouring of concrete into the pit.

In the course of pouring, he strengthened the formwork walls with spacers so that the plywood would not be squeezed out by concrete. After pouring to the upper limit, he made a formwork for the foundation and continued to pour.

Before pouring the foundation, I laid two beams 100x150 for the floors. Having finished with concrete, I left everything for a week to harden and harden.

2. Walls

A week passed and I set to work again, tried on and calculated the approximate number of cinder blocks I needed and the size of the boards. It turned out that in one row I need 14 pieces. By the way, I still have a cinder block from building a garage, which is why it was decided to build a toilet from it.

He began to knead the mortar and lay the cinder block on the foundation. In the course of construction, I decided to make one contraption for even masonry mortar.

Laid out 6 rows of cinder block, spent less than a bag of cement on them. I laid a 100x100 beam on top and attached it with a 12 mm hairpin to the cinder block. This method of fastening was also used in the construction of a garage 2 years ago.

I finished with the walls, began to make a box for the door and a roof.

3. Roof and door frame

Made a door frame from unedged board, or rather, from an unedged board with a chainsaw, sawed out an edged one and then planed it with a planer. It turned out very well. He did this due to the fact that the purpose of the construction was to buy as little as possible, therefore he built from improvised materials and remnants from previous construction projects.

It was decided to close the roof with ondulin, which my friend gave me in the construction market, or rather, these are lining sheets in which holes are drilled. I cut them and laid them with an overlap.

The rafters for the roof were made from a bar 50x100, and the crate from an unedged board.

4. Floors and seat

The floors were made from 40 mm boards. They remained after the alteration of the floors of the bathhouse. I outlined the location of the bench on which we will sit and laid the floors. Before these, I treated the logs and boards with a protective-tinting compound for wet rooms.

I made the seat (bench) from the same unedged board as the frame for the door, sawed it out, planed it and polished it, it turned out very well. I made the side part slightly sloping to make it convenient to put your feet.

Picking up a jigsaw sawed out a hole for the toilet seat.

5. Door

The door was made from plywood, which was left from the formwork. I made a light frame from a 50x50 bar and screwed the plywood on top, then sanded it with a grinder and covered it with a protective-tinting compound.

6. Ventilation

Ventilation was made from a 50 mm three-meter sewer pipe. I drilled a hole in the bench and lowered the pipe there below the floor level, put an umbrella on top for beauty.

7. Everything else

The skate was made from old tin. And the gables were sewn up with plywood (the same one that made the door).

For beauty, he made platbands and painted them in a dark color.

And most importantly made a sign on the door. The manufacturing technology of the plate is very simple. We print the text we need in a mirror image on a conventional laser printer, then we prepare the plate for the plate, it should be perfectly even. After that, we apply ordinary PVA glue on the board and glue the printed text face down, carefully expel the air from under the paper with a cloth and leave the whole thing overnight. And in the morning, with a wet rag, we shove our sheet on the board, the paper will peel off, but the inscription will remain. Then you need to varnish and the plate is ready.

Dacha plots in our time are becoming more popular every year, because many people seek to protect their families or protect them from noisy cities for a while and take them to an ecologically clean area. When you buy a plot, very often it is not equipped with amenities such as a bath and a toilet in the house or even on the street, so in some cases, you will need to build an outdoor toilet on your own. To begin with, you will have to decide how the construction will take place and what kind of material will be chosen. Usually a tree is chosen, because then the construction will be the easiest and fastest. If you do not know how to build a toilet from blocks, then the first step is the preparatory work.

That is, for starters, you will need to purchase the necessary material. In the case of a concrete block construction, you will need to purchase and bring blocks. In the case of a wooden toilet, you will need to bring wooden bars. When the construction itself begins, you will need to consider where the wind will blow. This is necessary in order to completely avoid the unpleasant smell, which after a while is simply inevitable. Next, you need to pay attention to the groundwater levels, because when you dig a drain hole, it should be located slightly above the intended level. Choose no more than 1.5 meters so that you do not feel unpleasant fumes in winter. Remove your toilet from sources of drinking water and select a low spot in this area so that you cannot pollute the water (soil) with a new building. Pay attention to the general regulations, which will indicate the minimum distances to the nearest allotment.

Wide selection of building blocks! Choose the best option for yourself. Go to catalog

So, in your work you will have to use: cement, lumber, concrete ring, nail, slate. Divide your construction into three stages, because first you will need to dig a cesspool, then you will need to finish and insulate the pit, and in the final stage, build the house itself. When you are finishing the pit, it is easiest to use ready-made reinforced concrete rings that you can buy at any hardware store. You are given a choice, because the rings can be easily replaced with brick lining. You will have to concrete the bottom under some slopes in the direction where there will be a slope towards the future hole (pit).

The corners will need to be drowned no less than 60 cm, for this an asbestos-cement pipe is usually used. A pole will be placed on such a pipe, which will need to be impregnated with bituminous mastics in advance. And only after that this structure will need to be cemented. The lower trim should be built no less than 50 cm from the common base. Pay attention to the thickness of the boards, because they should not exceed 4 centimeters. After that, proceed to the second stage - flooring. Further, you will need to cut holes in the far parts, in which the dimensions should not exceed 0.2 * 0.2 meters. Sheathe the frame, for this carefully use the boards, because they should fit snugly next to each other. After that, you will need to make a door that should be installed on a hinge - 2-3 and attach the latches inside the resulting house.

Then you need to deal with the toilet seat, which is usually knocked down with plywood. A so-called cube is made, which does not have a bottom, and standard sizes are very often used, that is, 40 * 40 * 40 centimeters, then you need to firmly fix such a toilet seat over a pit on the ground, cut a hole in the shape of a circle and attach the toilet ring to the resulting toilet seat . In any case, if questions arise in the field of how to build a toilet from blocks, intuition can help you, because in fact, in the course of work, this work is not difficult to carry out.

After the work is done, we move on to the roof. Usually, ordinary slate is chosen, which has dimensions of 175 * 125 centimeters. The slate must be nailed on top with special slate nails. This entire block structure must be carefully treated with fungicidal impregnation and some compounds that will not let your structure rot. After finishing and processing, we enjoy our design - the building is ready.

www.smartmsk.ru

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sqezo.ru

How to make a toilet in the country - a few simple construction methods for beginners

Andrey

The toilet is one of the most necessary objects in the country. Therefore, experienced people always advise starting the arrangement of a bare area from it. But, how to make a toilet on your own, without having any experience in such work?

Country outdoor toilet

Next, I will try to help in this matter. Of course, we will not consider how to install an installation in a house or perform any other complex operation. Below I will only describe a few of the most simple ways construction of an outdoor closet, focused on beginners. We will also touch on some aspects of arranging a restroom in a house or inside another building.

Options for building an outdoor closet

You can build a toilet in the country from almost any material that you have at hand. For example, if you are going to build country house, and bought building materials with a good supply, then the toilet can be built from the same materials, for example, from foam blocks. bricks, etc. In this case, a capital building with solid walls will turn out, however, it will take a relatively long time to build.

If you want to build a toilet with minimal cost time and effort, it is better to make it a frame from a bar or a metal profile, and then sheathe it with any material that is at your fingertips:

• boards;
• clapboard;
• polycarbonate;
• corrugated board, etc.;

If there is already a building on the site with free space sufficient for a toilet, then you can not build a booth. Below I will tell you how to make a toilet in the garage, in the house or any other building that is on the site.

Regardless of how you build the toilet, this procedure will include several main steps:

Main stages of construction

Let's take a closer look at each of these steps below.

Toilet design

So, first of all, we need to draw up a project for the future building. This stage involves the solution of several important tasks at once:

Design stages

In fact, there is nothing complicated about this, however, each of the stages has its own nuances.

Cabin design

The simplest is the frame structure of the toilet. The frame, as a rule, consists of four racks, as well as the lower and upper trim. To increase the strength, braces and crossbars are additionally used.

Of course, if you wish, you can use a more complex frame, for example, to make a closet in the form of a tower. Also, sometimes under one roof they combine a toilet and Summer shower which is also very convenient. Moreover, the layout may include a locker room so that things do not get wet while taking a shower.

An example of a frame toilet project in the form of a tower

On our portal you can find other ideas for the toilet. The main thing is that the level of their complexity is commensurate with your skills. If you are doing this kind of work for the first time, then it is better to perform a simple rectangular booth.

The project of a brick or block closet is simpler, since all walls are built by laying bricks or blocks. Therefore, the drawing should indicate only their location and the number of rows on each wall for the convenience of further work.

However, before drawing up a drawing of a structure, it is necessary to determine its dimensions. The latter, of course, can be taken arbitrarily at will, however, there are some generally accepted standards:

• height - 2 meters. This is usually quite enough, however, if there are tall people in the family, this parameter can be increased;
• the width according to the norms should be at least one and a half meters;
• length - 2 meters, this is also enough to position the toilet seat and provide a spacious area in front of it.

An example of a 3D toilet design

When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to indicate not only the overall dimensions of the toilet, but also the dimensions of all parts in millimeters in order to avoid mistakes during the construction process. After that, you can calculate the amount of materials.

toilet type

After the design of the cabin is ready, you need to decide how the waste will accumulate or be processed. Depending on this, outdoor closets can be divided into several types:

• with a cesspool - in this case, there is a pit under the toilet, which is usually cleaned every few years;

Scheme of the powder-closet device

• powder closet - in this case, there is a small container under the toilet seat, which is taken out and emptied from time to time;
• dry closet - in fact, this same powder closet, but in this case, waste products are sprinkled with peat, as a result of which they immediately begin to be processed. After filling the container, the waste is poured into compost pit, where over time an excellent fertilizer for plants is formed.

I must say that the dry closet can be placed even in the house or any other room. In this case, no additional plumbing for the toilet is needed. The only thing is that you will have to make partitions, for example, from drywall.

Dry closet can be put even in the house

On sale there are ready-made dry closets in the form of plastic toilet bowls with a tank. Instead of water in the tank is peat. The price of these products starts from 4500-5000 rubles.

The most common is a pit latrine, since after its construction, you can forget about any care for several years. The pit is necessarily made with sealed walls and a filter bottom to remove the liquid constituents of the waste. A layer of sand and gravel is used as a filter.

Groundwater should be located at a depth of at least six meters from the soil level. Otherwise, the bottom of the cesspool must be sealed.

As for the volume of the pit, two cubic meters is enough for a family of three to clean it every few years. If you have a large family, and you will spend a lot of time in the country, you can increase its volume to 2.5 cubic meters.

Of course, it is much easier and faster to make a powder closet, however, it is less convenient in terms of operation, since you will often have to empty the container. But, if you have made such a decision, put a bucket of peat near the toilet seat so that after each visit to the restroom you can sprinkle the contents of the bucket with peat. Thus, you will get a dry closet.

Minimum distances to objects on the site in accordance with sanitary standards

Location selection

The final step in designing a toilet with your own hands is to determine its location. You can place a dry closet or powder closet in any place convenient for you.

If there are level differences on the site, then the toilet should be located as close as possible to the highest point in order to exclude the possibility of it being flooded with melt or storm water.

But when choosing a place for a toilet with a cesspool, certain rules must be observed. The fact is that according to sanitary standards, a certain distance must be observed from the toilet to important objects on the site:

You need to place the toilet on the site so that unpleasant odors do not interfere with your rest or the rest of your neighbors.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that sooner or later the pit will have to be cleaned out. Therefore, it is desirable to place the toilet closer to the outer fence so that a sewage truck can drive up to it.

After preparing the project, you can proceed to the practical part - construction.

Pit preparation

Building a block or brick toilet

Pit and foundation preparation

First of all, consider how to build a capital toilet from blocks and bricks. Work should begin with the implementation of a cesspool, which in our case will serve as a foundation. The instructions for doing this work look something like this:

1. First of all, you need to mark the site. It is desirable to arrange the pit so that it is at least 30-40 centimeters longer than the booth. In this case, behind the toilet, you can make a hatch for pumping waste. In the process of marking, it should be borne in mind that the minimum width between the walls should be one and a half meters. Those. the width of the pit must be indicated taking into account the thickness of the walls;
2. then you need to dig a hole to a depth of about one and a half meters;
3. then the bottom is covered with sand and gravel, after which it is carefully rammed. If groundwater is located nearby, the bottom should be reinforced and angered with concrete;

Cesspool with brick walls

1. then the walls of the pit are completed. They can be built of brick or poured with concrete. This operation is performed according to the same principle as the strip foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information on how this is done;
2. when the walls are ready, it is necessary to pour a concrete floor with a thickness of at least 5 cm. At the same time, do not forget to make a hatch over the toilet seat, and also leave an open area that will be located behind the toilet.

After each stage of pouring, i.e. pouring the bottom, floor, walls and ceiling, you need to stop work so that the concrete gains the necessary strength.

This completes the process of building a cesspool. Now you need to wait until the concrete gains brand strength.

Building a brick toilet

Building walls and roofs

The laying of the walls of the toilet has no features and is performed in the following sequence:

1. along the perimeter of the concrete slab, several layers of roofing material should be laid to waterproof the walls;
2. then the laying of bricks or blocks is carried out. There is nothing particularly difficult in this procedure. The only thing is that you need to carefully lay each row so that all the bricks are located in the same horizontal and vertical plane. To do this, you need to use the level, as well as pull the ropes that will serve as beacons. In addition, try to ensure that all joints have the same thickness (about 5 mm) and are completely filled with mortar;

Lighthouse bricklaying

1. above the door and window openings jumpers are required. For these purposes, you can use two metal corners located so that a brick or block can become on them;
2. when the walls are "raised" to the required height, you need to complete the roof. To do this, lay boards that can be fixed to the walls with dowels. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the boards and lathing is carried out with slats.

Any roofing material- slate, corrugated board, metal tiles, etc.

The back wall of the toilet should be 15-20 centimeters lower than the front to ensure the slope of the roof.

On this, the construction of the capital toilet is almost completed. Now you need to make a toilet seat from the boards, which is a box with a hatch, as well as install a door and make a cover for the pit from the boards. Below I will tell you in more detail how the door and the toilet seat are made.

In the photo - a cesspool of stingrays

Arrangement of a cesspool and foundation

If the toilet will be your first construction experience, then it is better to make it framed, as it is much easier. In this case, the cesspool can be made from car tires.

To do this, follow these steps:

1. First of all, you need to mark the site and dig a hole in the back of the toilet. Its dimensions must be such that it is possible to lay the tires flat;
2. then the bottom of the pit is made according to the scheme described above, after which tires are stacked on top of each other until they reach ground level;
3. now you need to complete the columnar foundation. To do this, you need to dig pits according to the size of concrete blocks at each corner of the structure to a depth of about 40 cm. After that, the bottom of the pits needs to be covered with sand and gravel about 30 cm thick, carefully compacted and then laid concrete blocks. The blocks must be located in the same horizontal plane, so use beacons and a level during their installation;
4. At the end of the work, several layers of roofing material must be laid on the blocks.

Now that the pit and foundation are ready, you can start arranging the frame.

Construction of a frame toilet

Frame construction

The easiest way is to build a frame from a bar with a section of 50x50 mm, since this does not require welding machine and any special tools. It is made as follows:

1. a grillage in the form of a rectangle of timber is laid on the foundation. You can fasten the timber together with self-tapping screws and metal corners;

toilet base

1. further, according to the same principle, vertical racks are installed, which can be strengthened with braces;

An example of mounting vertical racks

1. a cross member is mounted at the base, which will separate the toilet seat area from the floor. On this crossbar, the toilet seat racks will be located in the future;
2. from above, the upper strapping is performed, which is also fastened with corners and self-tapping screws;
3. now you need to fix the racks and crossbars at the locations of the door and window openings;
4. at the end of the work, you need to complete the frame of the toilet seat, which also consists of racks from horizontal crossbars.

sheathing

Now that the frame is ready, it needs to be sheathed. As mentioned above, it can be made from any "improvised" materials. For example, polycarbonate sheathing looks original.

If the exterior of the site is made in a rustic or Russian style, make it from a lining or at least from boards. Sheathing is also attached to the frame using our favorite self-tapping screws. By the same principle, the toilet seat is sheathed.

Sheathing the frame with boards

The roof is made according to the scheme described above. As for the door, it can be made from boards of suitable length, which are fastened together with Z-shaped slats. Boards are simply laid on the floor of the toilet.

Toilet seat example

That, in fact, is all that I wanted to tell you about the construction of an outdoor toilet. I note that the presence of a restroom on the site does not at all mean that you need to abandon the amenities in the house. On the contrary, if the toilet was not originally planned, you can allocate space for it at the expense of the living room.

The dry closet in this case is not the only way to equip the toilet in the house. If you want to create the most comfortable conditions, you can perform an autonomous sewage system and install a septic tank.

In this case, even the installation of an installation in the toilet can be realized. However, this is a separate topic for conversation, which we will talk about next time.

Conclusion

Building a toilet is a task that every home craftsman can handle. Moreover, you can build a frame structure yourself in just a few days. I hope the above information was helpful to you.

For more information, see the video in this article. If you have any difficulties during the construction process or have other questions, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

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Do-it-yourself foundation for a toilet in the country

Put good foundation- will serve for a long time

Holidays in the country should be comfortable and convenient, so often the arrangement garden plot start with the construction of a sanitary facility. In order not to regret later on the work done, you must immediately take into account all important points: choosing a good place, how to properly build a foundation for a toilet for many years, what should be the sequence of work and what we need for it.

Installing a foundation for a toilet in a country house is a simple task, and with the right approach, you can easily do it yourself.

How to find the right place

The convenience and durability of the structure depends on how correctly the installation site was chosen. Let's turn to the experience of experienced summer residents and find out a few important nuances.

Before starting work, draw a simple circuit, reflecting on it all summer cottages, a well or a well.

An important point: the toilet should be located at least 25 meters from the well, 7 meters from a residential building and 1 meter from the border line.

Based on these indicators, mark on your diagram the most suitable areas for the construction of a country toilet.

1. If the height of the soil fluctuates significantly in your summer cottage, then the most the best option there will be a lowland for building a toilet with your own hands. Remember: in order to avoid flooding the cesspool with precipitation, it is necessary to thoroughly waterproof it. Don't forget to waterproof the foundation.
2. The soil on which the base of the toilet will be placed should not have high moisture levels or be floating. In the case with clay soil, for better absorption of liquids, it is necessary to line the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel.
3. One of the determining factors is the prevailing wind direction on the site. Therefore, it is necessary to build a toilet so that unpleasant odors do not spread to the residential sector.
4. If you plan to install a sanitary room with the expectation of many years, and you are not going to change the place every time after the pit is completely filled, then it is necessary to provide access to the toilet of the sewer truck.
5. Before you make a country toilet with your own hands, consider the following: it is equally contraindicated for this room to be both in the sun and in constant shade. The most acceptable option would be to place the building next to buildings or trees that cast a shadow at certain times of the day.

For the construction of a new toilet, a place that has already been used previously for garbage or the construction of a closet is not suitable.