Step-by-step instructions: how to insulate a bath from the inside. Useful tips: how best to insulate a bath Do-it-yourself warming a bath

Proper layout of the bath will significantly reduce heat loss. But to extend the service life of the building and reduce the cost of its maintenance will allow the use of all 4 layers of steam room insulation:

1. vapor barriers;
2. waterproofing;
3. thermal insulation;
4. finish coating.

Modern solutions offered by manufacturers vapor barrier, work in both directions at once: they do not release steam and moisture from the steam room and do not allow water from outside. This significantly increases the service life of the bath, because. protects it from rotting and fungal infections, which can be caused by high humidity. It is made, as a rule, from foil materials.

Hydroprotection It is aimed at isolating the interior from moisture from the outside. Needed for frame construction and for aerated concrete walls.

IMPORTANT! You should choose different solutions for waterproofing the steam room and other rooms. Steam room waterproofing should be made from materials that can withstand the highest temperatures (for example, based on kraft paper).
. Warming of the steam room should be aimed at reducing heat loss and creating the effect of a "thermos"

Then all the heat will remain inside the steam room, and not warm environment. Therefore, when choosing a heater for a bath, the steam room requires the closest attention.

Warming steam rooms should be aimed at reducing heat loss and creating the effect of a "thermos". Then all the heat will remain inside the steam room, and not warm the environment. Therefore, when choosing a heater for a bath, the steam room requires the closest attention.

Finishing (finishing) materials allow you to hide flaws during construction, in addition, they provide a beautiful visual view of the steam room.

REFERENCE. The market is mainly represented Decoration Materials from tree species such as: pine, linden or aspen. This wood has a low density, so we recommend using narrow boards and laying them horizontally to eliminate the risk of warping. In addition, it is imperative to treat them with oils or other specialized compounds to extend their service life.

Warming the bath from the inside

Warming feature internal walls in the bath is a high level of humidity. Therefore, even in the case when thermal insulation insensitive to moisture is chosen, insulation will be required. securely cover with a layer of vapor barrier. If this is not done, then moisture will begin to condense inside the insulation material, which is fraught with a decrease in the ability to retain heat and the likelihood of rotting of the wall material.

As a vapor barrier for baths, aluminum foil can be used, which not only protects the insulation from condensation, but also reflects heat to a large extent. To ensure the integrity of the vapor barrier, all seams between sheets of foil should be glued with metallized tape.

Since the conditions in the bath in different rooms are significantly different, the insulation technology will vary significantly.

1. Wall insulation in the steam room.

Here the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• a crate of dry wooden beams or slats is hung on the surface of the walls;
• the cells formed by the laths of the crate are covered with a fiberglass cloth;
• heat-insulating material is laid (basalt is best);
• a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of everything.

The final stage of wall insulation in the steam room will be installation decorative finishes. As such, it is best to use a wooden lining.

Another video about warming the bath from the inside and how to sheathe the steam room inside.

Ceiling insulation.

This operation is in many ways similar to improving the thermal insulation of walls. The differences will be that when insulating the ceiling in the washing room and in the dressing room, you can refuse to use aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. Instead, it is quite possible to use cheaper polyethylene or kraft paper.

In addition, it is worth leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative ceiling cladding. This distance will improve the ventilation of the cladding material to speed up its drying. This moment is quite important, because during the bath procedures, the ceiling lining is exposed to the damaging effects of moisture at very high temperatures. The presence of a gap will allow the tree not to rot, but to dry out without compromising its operational and aesthetic qualities.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a bath, you will learn by reading this article.

And this article talks about the insulation of the roof of the bath.

Floor insulation.

Heat loss in the bath can occur not only through the walls or ceiling, but also through the floor, which is especially important in winter time. Therefore, the floors must also be carefully insulated. The sequence of actions for floor insulation will be as follows:

• a concrete screed is poured on a leveled and compacted base of the earthen floor;
• after the screed has hardened, a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene or roofing felt is lined;
• sheets or sheets of insulation are laid;
• another layer of waterproofing is lined;
• poured another layer of concrete screed.

Since the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, when they are insulated, the thoroughness of laying the waterproofing should be given the greatest possible attention. .

It is very important that water, even with minor damage to the top layer of the concrete screed, cannot penetrate into the insulation layer and thereby deprive it of its heat-insulating qualities.

Having solved the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, you can get a guarantee that it will be possible to quickly warm up all the rooms even in severe frosts. The sauna event itself will become much more comfortable, as the temperature will be consistently high.

This is especially important for lovers of a strong steam bath, because with insufficient thermal insulation of the steam room, the procedure will lose its attractiveness. Using the same modern insulating materials, you can permanently get rid of such problems.

How to insulate the door to the bath? The answer to this question is here.

See our website http://ru-house.net/. And you will learn a lot more informative, useful information.

Section materials
Warming

How to insulate walls in a bath: materials and the simplest technologies

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the outside: technologies, materials, step-by-step instruction

Do-it-yourself high-quality warming of the bath

Internal insulation of the bath

When insulating a bath, it is required to sheathe all planes of the room with insulation: floor, walls and ceiling. Only in this case there will be no heat leaks and water procedures will be as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

Internal insulation of the bath

Insulation of the bath must begin from the floor. As a rule, in rooms with high humidity, the arrangement of two types of floors is practiced: leaking and solid. Solid structures are supplemented with a central drain, and leaking ones are equipped with a crate, under which water flows into a drain mounted below the level of the finished floor.

Insulation of a leaking floor structure

Insulation of a leaking floor structure

The floor under the wooden crate, through which water escapes, resembles a multi-layered sandwich made of various materials. All insulation materials must be installed in series.

Step 1

To equip leaking floors with insulation, you need to dig a hole 60 cm deep. The size of the hole should match the perimeter of the washing room or steam room.

Step 2

The bottom of the pit should be flat and dry. At the bottom, you need to pour a pillow of sand and carefully tamp it down. Pillow height - 5-6 cm.

Step 3

Styrofoam slabs are laid on top of the sand. The material must be at least 20 cm wide. The joints of the plates must be carefully fitted to each other, there should be no gaps.

Step 4

A solution is poured over the plates, consisting of a mixture of cement and finely crushed foam plastic, 50-60 mm thick. The solution must dry.

Step 5

A waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete screed; ordinary roofing material can be used. The edges of the roofing material should be overlapped on the walls.

Step 6

A cement screed is poured onto the roofing material, in which vermiculite is added 1 to 1. Screed thickness - 50 mm.

Step 7

Reinforcement. For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the screed.

Step 8

On top of the grid, a concrete screed is again poured, into which fine gravel is added, the recommended layer thickness is 50 mm.

Step 9

Installation of posts to support a wooden floor.

Step 10

Flooring with technical gaps through which water will escape.

Important: the installation of the drain pipe must be carried out before the start of insulation. The last layer of screed should be poured at a slight slope towards the drain so that water does not accumulate on the concrete floor.

Solid floor insulation

Solid floor insulation

Insulation of solid floors in the bathhouse is carried out in the same way as in residential buildings.

Insulation installation is best done when construction work. It is optimal to build a double floor structure: rough and finish.

The insulation that is most suitable in terms of technical characteristics and price, for example, mineral wool, is located between the finishing and rough layer of boards. It is recommended to lay a waterproofing material on top, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet.

Insulation of solid floors in the bathhouse

It's important to know! In the washing room it is best to lay ceramic tiles, resistant to high humidity.

Artificial and thermal insulation coatings

Industrial-made materials are more versatile and have many advantages compared to natural materials - they are not subject to physical deformation and are resistant to attacks by rodents and insects.

When choosing a heat-insulating coating, it is important to pay attention to the following indicators:

• tightness;
• low thermal conductivity - the lower the coefficient, the less heat loss;
• sufficient level of thermal protection;
• wear resistance;
• the ability to provide an airtight coating;
• resistance to both chemical aggressors and physical impact;
• incombustibility;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• non-toxicity and safety for humans;
• moisture resistance;
• elasticity and resistance to deformation;
• weather resistance.

For better protection surfaces will be more effective combined synthetic materials:

foamed polyethylene with one, two or three layers of foil - "Teplofol";

Teplofol

multilayer corrugated paper and several layers of foil - "Alfol";

"Megafol" - a heat-insulating polyethylene base with a UV-reflective coating;

"Isover" - a combined material of a fiberglass base and a reflective top layer.

Important! If the walls of the bath are built of bricks or blocks, then before starting work, all gaps and places of loose fit of the plates must be sealed. For this, slag, expanded clay or a sand mixture with the addition of sawdust mixed with limestone is suitable. The wall is being worked on from the inside. With a shortage of time, you can use hard mineral wool sheets.

1 Why you need to insulate the sauna

Let's think about what we want to get from a good, high-quality sauna or bath. Most owners, as a rule, answer that the main requirement is to maintain the required temperature for a long time and quickly warm up the room.

For example, the average temperature in a Russian bath is from 70 to 90 degrees, with high air humidity, in a Finnish sauna - about 100 degrees, with low humidity.

To maintain this temperature for long period, the design of the sauna and bath should have high thermal insulation properties, which, in most cases, can only be obtained with the help of their insulation.

As practice shows, the use of high-quality thermal insulation materials, and technologically proper insulation, gives you the following results:

• Significantly reduce energy costs or solid fuel, for heating saunas and baths;
• A significant extension of the durability of wooden baths, as the walls receive effective protection against moisture, under the influence of which, in the long term, the tree will rot and collapse;
• Extending the service life of stoves - to warm up an insulated sauna or bath, much less thermal energy is required, since heat losses are minimized, which makes it possible to operate stoves in a gentle mode;
• The time required to fully warm up the sauna decreases, and the period during which the sauna maintains the required temperature increases;
• If refractory material is used for insulation - basalt or foil insulation, the fire safety of the room increases.

Complex thermal insulation of the steam room with mineral wool and foil

1.1 Key requirements for sauna insulation

In order to decide which insulation to use for saunas and baths is better, it is necessary to identify the basic requirements that the thermal insulation of the bath must meet. The selection of a heater for a bath should be carried out with a focus on a number of requirements.

These requirements, apart from general rules, which all high-quality heaters must comply with, three:

1. The presence of a shielding layer (foil);
2. Resistance to moisture and evaporation;
3. Fire resistance.

Since baths and saunas are rooms in which there is a powerful source of heat - a stove, simple insulation for such rooms is not enough. Much greater efficiency can be obtained by using insulation with foil, which has the properties of reflecting thermal energy. To insulate the floor in the bath, bulk heaters can be used.

A conventional insulation with low thermal conductivity simply prevents heat transfer, but the heat is still much slower, but goes into the environment or neighboring rooms

When insulating a bath with your own hands, this fact should be taken into account.

While the insulation with foil has two advantages at once - the base of basalt wool or foamed polyethylene prevents heat transfer between the cold wall and warm air inside the bath, and the foil layer reflects into the room coming from heating furnace thermal energy.

Moisture resistance is necessary so that the insulation does not begin to lose its thermal insulation characteristics and break down under constant exposure to moist air. Do-it-yourself warming of the steam room should be guided by this fact.

In the case of using vapor-tight insulation - foam and similar products made of polyethylene foam, there is no need for additional vapor barrier, however, if you decide to lay non-foil basalt insulation, then you must use special vapor barrier membrane films (as budget option you can use regular cellophane).

Thermal insulation of the sauna walls with foil insulation

In the issue of fire resistance, not only the combustion class of the material is important, but also temperature regime for its operation. For example, the boundary temperature when using Penoplex is 80 degrees, above which the material begins to deform.

As you understand, in a Finnish sauna, the temperature in which can reach 100 degrees, it is better not to use such a heater.

1 Nuances that affect the choice of insulation

A bath is not just an ordinary building of walls, floor, ceiling and roof. Rather, the building is ordinary, but the processes in it are unique.

If an optimal environment is always maintained in a cottage or a private house (this applies to temperature, humidity, pressure indicator, etc.), then everything is completely different in a bath or sauna.

Here, on the contrary, the owners strive to create such a building so that it can heat up in as soon as possible and keep warm for a very long time. As a result, it turns out that the requirements for heaters for saunas change slightly. And this already affects the entire selection process.

In addition, in the bath and physical forces act a little differently. After all, a very high temperature is constantly maintained here and just an excess amount of steam. Moreover, this steam should not be removed as soon as possible, but, on the contrary, kept inside, partially preventing its condensation.

1.1 Structural features

An important role in choosing a heater is also played by what design will be insulated. Yes, and the technology of assembling a house matters.

For example, a bath built according to frame technology, is already prepared for normal finishing, since you only have to fill in the frame.

The main load always falls on the ceiling in the bath. Why the ceiling? Let's turn to basic physics to understand this.

An example of external insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool in the bath

The ceiling is the upper part of the structure. Above it are only the elements of the roof, but we'll talk about them a little later. Under the ceiling is constantly hot air, and in large quantities.

As you probably already guessed, steam is also hot air, only very humid. Therefore, the ceiling also withstands the influence of steam. All this air mass constantly strives upward. The only obstacle between them and the roof structures is the same ceiling.

As you can see, the insulation under the ceiling must be very reliable, easily endure high temperatures, an excess amount of steam and, if possible, not let it through at all. Insulation of the ceiling in the bath can be done using foam sheets.

With wall structures, the situation is similar, but slightly different. Here, the main influence is exerted by thermal radiation and banal heat losses due to the thermal conductivity of the elements.

The area of ​​​​the walls is large, and this affects the overall heat transfer of the structure. better walls insulate in advance, even before you start the bath. Otherwise, it will cool down very quickly. Especially in the winter season.

But for floor structures, the main thing is the ability to withstand temperature extremes and the absence of a reaction to moisture. The fact is that the coldest air is always collected above the floor plane. Condensation also flows there, which is deposited on the walls.

That is, the main load comes from the water itself. Let's not forget about how much water can be spilled by accident.

Therefore, hydrophobicity and the ability to withstand all the above loads for a long time when choosing a floor insulation is of great importance. Much more serious than steam protection.

As for the roof, then here you already have a large field for maneuver. The roof structure in the bath is assembled from boards and slate. Sometimes they use metal tiles or something similar.

The main load from steam and high temperatures extinguishes the ceiling and walls

For the roof, it is important to simply prevent cold air from penetrating into the attic, saunas, so that a sharp temperature drop is not created. It is especially important to take this into account when warming the steam room with your own hands.

2 Types of heaters

Focusing on the above requirements, we can conclude that two types of heaters are optimally suited for warming a sauna or a bath:

• Foil mineral (basalt wool);
• Foil foam.

The use of these materials makes it possible to achieve the “thermos effect”, when the walls of the sauna do not allow steam to pass through, as a result of which the air temperature in the steam room does not decrease over a long period.

2.1 Mineral wool

In total, there are three types of mineral wool with which you can insulate the bath from the inside: fiberglass wool - made from cullet, slag wool - made from waste from the metallurgical industry, and basalt wool - made from basalt rock.

The best option for warming the sauna is basalt wool, although it costs a little more than other types of mineral wool, it has much better technical specifications. A more expensive, but high-quality analogue is the Izover Sauna insulation for saunas and baths.

Thermal insulation of the sauna walls with mineral wool and foil material

The main manufacturer of basalt wool in the domestic market is the company "Ursa", in the product line of which there is a special basalt wool for thermal insulation of saunas and baths - Ursa "Glasswool M-11F". With it, you can carry out the insulation of the ceiling in the bath.

Ursa "Glasswool" is a rolled basalt insulation with one-sided foiling. The thermal energy shielding coefficient of this material is about 97%, while for such insulation there is no need to lay additional vapor barrier.

Consider the main technical characteristics of Urs "Glasswool":

• Density - 11 kg / cubic meter;
• Combustibility class - NG (completely non-combustible material);
• The maximum temperature regime is up to 800 degrees;
• Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.04 W / mk;
• Roll dimensions: width - 120, length - 1800, thickness - 5 centimeters;
• The area of ​​one package is 21.6 m².

Also, Ursa Geo M-11F fiberglass wool with one-sided foiling is not bad for warming the sauna. The density of this mineral wool is 14.1 kg / m³, thermal conductivity - 0.042 W / mk.

2.2 Foil foam

While foam thermal insulation is rarely used as the main insulation for residential buildings, for baths and saunas - where the shielding abilities of the material come to the fore, since the main heat losses are associated with thermal radiation, foil foam is one of the best options thermal insulation.

Thermal insulation of walls with foil Penotherm

Among all Penotherm's foil insulation, the PenoPremium NPP LF material is intended, a feature of which is an extended temperature regime of operation. Such heaters for a bath with foil are very popular.

While most foil insulation, based on polyethylene foam, deforms at a temperature of about 100 degrees, Penoterm NPP LF can withstand temperatures of + 150C without any problems.

Let's get acquainted with the main technical characteristics of this material:

• Thermal reflection index: 90%;
• Water absorption at full immersion for 25 hours - 1% of the volume;
• Thermal conductivity coefficient: 0.034 W / mk;
• Material density: from 100 to 390 g/m²;
• Flammability class: G2 (low combustible materials);
• Temperature conditions: from -40 to +150 degrees;
• Vapor permeability coefficient: 0.001 mg/MhPa (vapor barrier material).

The indisputable advantage of Penotherm is the ease of installation of insulation from this material. To install the insulation, it is not necessary to create a supporting frame, it is simply attached to the wall or ceiling of the bath using a construction stapler, or nails, with foil inside the room.

The places where the staples or nails are located, and the joints of the Penotherm sheets to each other, are glued with aluminum tape, after which a frame for cladding is installed on top of the insulation, and the walls are sheathed with decorative material.

2.3 Bath and sauna insulation technology (video)

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate the bath inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls. True, the cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. For guard plastic windows self-adhesive foam strips are used.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of flooring. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wood floor, and boards are already mounted on top of the leveled backfill.

They begin to equip a concrete leaking floor with digging a foundation pit 50 centimeters deep.

Layers thermal insulation structure arranged in the direction from bottom to top in the following sequence:

• sand -5 centimeters;
• polystyrene -20 centimeters;
• concrete mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with foam chips - 5 centimeters;
• waterproofing;
• concrete combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (the so-called natural material with low thermal conductivity) - 5 centimeters;
• reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the foundation, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the event that a continuous flooring, on top of the draft base, heat-insulating material is laid with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or polystyrene. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. A reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high is mounted on top of this layer.

Then, as a rule, lay a tile. Despite the fact that the tiles in the steam room do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make visiting the bath more enjoyable.

What materials to choose for warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Insulation for a bath on the walls with foil

Well suited for baths, because. performs several functions at once (hydro and steam protection, heat-insulating properties). There are several types depending on the material of the foil:

1. with a layer of foil;
2. with aluminum coating;
3. with a layer of aluminum foil.

Ordinary foil can be prone to corrosion, and aluminum must be protected from excessive heat, otherwise it can damage the finishing materials.

Warming is milestone work in the decoration of any private house, in the bath, this operation is of key importance. A steam room is a space with special conditions, where extreme temperatures are combined with high humidity. No matter how well the bath is built, if careful thermal insulation was not made at the finishing stage, the sauna will not be able to function correctly, cold will penetrate into the interior, and heat will go outside. To maintain the necessary temperature indicators, it is necessary to warm it well. In this matter, you can rely on the professionalism and experience of specialists, or you can do the warming of the bath from the inside with your own hands. The article provides step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of a bath room.

There are many on the market today quality insulation, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. For thermal insulation of this room, it is necessary to use materials that meet the following requirements:

1. Non-toxic. In the bath, under the influence of extremely high temperatures, the harmful substances contained in the material are rapidly released, so toxic insulation can cause poisoning.
2. Non-hygroscopic. You should choose a material that does not absorb moisture.

The heater for the bath should be:

• resistant to high temperatures and steam;
• fireproof;
• environmentally friendly;
• durable.

There are several groups of heaters that can be used in the bath:

1. Organic. These are natural materials that can ignite from high temperatures, so they only insulate the rest room and dressing room.
2. Mineral. These materials are suitable for warming the steam room and any other parts of the bath.

In accordance with the above requirements, the best heat insulators for a bath are described in the table:

Mineral wool foil plates are well suited for warming the steam room, as in the photo, which work on the principle of a thermos, keeping heat inside the room for a long time. To create an airtight coating, the mats are fastened together with foil tape.

If the insulation is carried out with a material that does not have a foil layer, it must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

When using mineral wool for thermal insulation of the floor, it is necessary to make multi-layer insulation. The first layer is best to put expanded clay, which is not attractive to rodents.

Insulation of the bath must be done not only inside, but also outside the house. About how to properly make external insulation, we described earlier in the article. Below we will dwell on how to perform the insulation of the bath with our own hands from the inside. The process consists of several successive stages.

Floor insulation

The floor is located in the lower part of the building, and it is constantly affected by temperature differences between the ground and the room. To avoid this, it is necessary to start warming from the ground itself.

Work on internal insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Leading to the bath drain pipe, which is usually installed in the center of the room.
2. A roofing material is laid on a well-packed earth, which will prevent the ingress of moisture from the soil into the insulation cake. The edges of the material should go to the walls to a height of at least 15 cm.
3. Almost the entire space under the bath is covered with a thick layer of expanded clay or slag. For ventilation, 20-25 cm are left between the upper edge of the backfill and the floor beams.
4. On the protruding sections of the foundation, floor beams are installed, pre-treated with an antiseptic composition.
5. From the bottom of the beams, cranial bars are screwed, then a draft floor is laid on them.
6. The entire structure is covered with a vapor-tight film in such a way that both subfloor boards and wooden beams are covered.
7. Mineral wool slabs are laid on the film between the beams or granulated expanded clay is poured.
8. From above, the heat insulator is also covered with a film.
9. Logs are mounted across the beams, then wooden flooring is laid on them. In the place of drain in the boards do round hole for water drainage.
10. Laths are nailed on top of the boards, which will serve as a crate for mounting a waterproof floor.
11. Insulation is laid between the slats of the frame, the foil layer should look up. Between themselves, the plates are connected using foil tape. To insulate the pipe, it is also wrapped in heat-insulating material.
12. A fine wooden floor is laid over the insulation.

log bath

Bath wall insulation

The tree has a low thermal conductivity, and the walls of the logs themselves perfectly retain heat inside the log house, provided that the caulking of the interventional joints is of high quality. Therefore, it is not required to make multi-layer wall cake, to eliminate heat loss, it is enough to lay one layer of insulation with a thickness of 50-80 mm.

Wall insulation is done as follows:

1. Basalt mineral wool slabs are laid directly on the wall and fixed with mushroom fasteners, the foil layer should be facing the room. Since the log wall is uneven, natural ventilation gaps are formed between the insulation and the wood, which will prevent condensation from accumulating.
2. A wooden crate is mounted on top of the mineral wool.
3. The wall is sheathed with clapboard 10 mm thick, which is attached to the laths of the crate.

Baths from a bar

A log cabin, as well as a log cabin, is preliminarily caulked, and then carried out additional insulation. The walls of the timber are even and it is much easier to fix the insulation on them.

Work sequence:

1. The frame is assembled from wooden slats on the wall, which are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
2. Mineral wool mats are laid between the lathing bars.
3. The entire structure is completely covered with rolled foil material, which is attached to the frame rails. The joints between the canvases are glued with foil tape.
4. A counter-lattice is made, the slats are nailed to the bars of the frame. This creates an air gap between the insulation material and the finish.
5. The lining is installed.

door insulation technology

Large heat losses occur through the door slots, so you must definitely take care of the thermal insulation of the wooden or iron door leading to the bath.

As a heater, you can use felt, basalt wool, foil insulation. There are several ways to insulate a door, below we will give the most common:

1. A frame of 15x20 mm rails is mounted around the perimeter of the door, which should recede from the edge door leaf by 10 cm.
2. A sheet of hardboard is laid inside the frame and attached with a stapler.
3. Felt or other material is pulled on top of the frame and fixed with nails, which should be 5 cm larger than the frame itself.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bath without an attic is performed from the inside, if there is an attic, it can be insulated both inside and outside the room. Don't forget to insulate the chimney too. If it is made of a sandwich pipe, inside which an insulating layer is provided, such thermal insulation will be quite enough.

If the chimney is made from one pipe, it must be wrapped with basalt insulation, and a larger diameter pipe must be put on top.

Warming ceiling structure can be done in three ways.

false ceiling

The thermal insulation of such a ceiling is very similar to the insulation of walls. The beams of the attic floor act as a frame for the hemming flow.

1. From the side of the attic, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the beams, and then boards are laid.
2. Insulation boards are tightly laid between the beams from the inside of the bath room.
3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film or foil material, which is attached to the beams themselves.
4. Sheathe the ceiling with clapboard.

panel ceiling

Such a ceiling consists of special panels, on the inside of which there is already a layer of insulation and vapor barrier. Mineral wool 10 cm thick is usually used.

Ceiling boards are assembled at the bottom, and then, ready-made, rise up. However, the panels are quite heavy, and it is quite difficult to lift such a structure yourself. Therefore, they are usually lifted piece by piece and mounted at a height.

After installing and fixing the panels, gaskets of insulating material are laid between them and the main ceiling.

This ceiling is distinguished by the absence of floor beams. It consists of boards 50 mm thick, which are placed directly on the walls of the bath or on bars nailed along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 10-12 cm below the ceiling.

Thermal insulation in this way is suitable for small spaces no wider than 2.5 m. In this case, only thin insulation no more than 5 mm thick.

The following insulation scheme is used:

1. The boards are covered with a vapor barrier film.
2. A heater is placed on top.
3. Then comes the waterproofing layer.
4. Everything is covered with plywood sheets or boards.

Using the instructions for the internal insulation of the bath, you can independently make the thermal insulation of not only new, but also old buildings. But before warming old building it is necessary to carefully prepare the walls, close up cracks and cracks, treat the tree with an antiseptic, and only after that proceed with thermal insulation.

If you decide to remake a change house or trailer for a bath, then their insulation can also be carried out according to the above scheme.

However, we do not recommend insulating the bath on your own, since improper thermal insulation can lead to sad consequences. Condensation can accumulate between the walls, the insulation will quickly become unusable, the wood will begin to rot. To avoid this, you just need to contact the specialists that you will find on our website.

The company "Master Srubov" has been professionally doing decoration and thermal insulation for many years. wooden houses in Moscow and the region. If you want your bathhouse to please you with warmth and comfort, to serve you as a duty, to keep the optimum temperature in the steam room, we are ready to help you with this.

You will find our coordinates in the section.

When building a traditional Russian or Finnish bath, you need to take care of high-quality insulation of the building in order to prevent large heat losses through walls, ceilings and floors in winter. Otherwise, it will be difficult to heat the steam room properly, and fuel consumption will turn out to be unreasonably high. Not to mention the comfortable conditions for people washing there. It is not difficult to insulate a bath, but you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to do it correctly and what materials you can use. You can learn about all the nuances of the process from this article.

What heater to choose?

If you study the issue more deeply, it turns out that the main difficulty lies in choosing the right insulation for proper thermal insulation of the bath building in general and the steam room in particular. The reason is simple - none of the many modern materials offered on the market is not suitable for warming the steam room inside. Moreover, it is simply unacceptable to use foam plastic, foam plastic and other polymers for this purpose, as well as mineral wool.

The bath is designed to improve the health of a person - this is an axiom. Inside the steam room, and other adjacent rooms, high temperature and humidity are provided - this is one of the conditions for the healing procedure. Respectively, internal insulation for a bath should not emit any harmful substances when heated, which cannot be said about the vast majority of modern materials.

When heated above 60 ° C (and sometimes 110 ° C in the steam room), all foamed polymers begin to release harmful substances and even emit a specific smell. Therefore, with their help, it is possible to insulate the bath building only from the outside, but by no means inside. The same goes for various kinds basalt and mineral wool, which includes a binder based on phenol. There is nothing to say about roll insulation based on glass wool.

For reference. Polymeric heaters that are not suitable for interior decoration include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, foam plastic, foamed polyethylene insulators (Izolon, Penofol) and other similar materials.

What is the best way to sheathe the walls from the inside in order to insulate the bath correctly and without harm to health? The answer lies on the surface - natural environmentally friendly materials that were used by our ancestors. These include:

• sawdust with clay;
• wood;
• felt;
• linen, jute;
• reeds tied into mats;

Advice. There is an old folk way used for a long time by people in villages. When the owners kept several cows, they prepared a lot of hay and straw for the winter. And they kept them, leaning against the walls wooden house or baths, thereby simultaneously warming it for the winter.

Good modern heaters for baths and saunas are expanded clay and vermiculite, all others are suitable only for external insulation, done by hand or with the help of specialists. Now that we have figured out the best way to finish the interior of the steam room, we can proceed to the very process of thermal insulation of the walls.

The scheme of warming the bath from the inside

The method of carrying out the work depends on what the building is built from. For example, a well-built log house does not need insulation at all, the thickness of the logs is quite enough. In an old chopped bathhouse, it may be necessary to seal and caulk the cracks between the logs. This is done using felt or other interventional heaters listed above. The same warming procedure is done by hand in structures made of profiled or glued timber, if cracks appear.

To save the walls wooden bath from exposure to high humidity, you can protect them with a foil vapor barrier layer. This does not mean foil insulation made of foamed polyethylene, namely pure foil, which is laid between the inner surface of the wall and wood trim steam rooms. Used here simple technology: the foil is nailed to wooden surface with the help of battens, as shown in the diagram:

The joints of the material are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with aluminum tape for tightness. Later, interior trim elements are attached to the lathing slats. According to the same scheme, it is proposed to insulate baths built of brick, gas silicate and foam blocks, since these building materials are best protected from moisture. That is, from the inside, lay a foil vapor barrier, and perform the main "pie" of insulation from the outside.

The most correct decision would be to abandon the idea of ​​​​insulating the bath from the inside, it is enough to lay a vapor barrier layer between the walls and the interior. At the same time, when installing external thermal insulation, it is possible to use any kind of heaters for baths or saunas without risking the health of your loved ones. In this case, it is worth starting with the insulation of the foundation of the building.

Foundation thermal insulation

This procedure is more convenient to perform during construction, otherwise you will have to destroy the blind area and dig a hole around the structure at least 1 m wide and 30 cm deep. First, a layer of waterproofing is applied to the foundation surface, and then insulation boards are glued. This is where foamed polymers will come in handy - polystyrene, or better, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer in this case will be 50 mm.

Advice. To insulate the base and base of the bath, you should not use various foil heaters, they are too thin and will not give the desired effect. Mineral wool is also not suitable, since it is hygroscopic and, after absorbing moisture, is not able to retain heat.

Insulation plates are also laid under the blind area, thus protecting the soil near the building from freezing. Then the filling is done concrete blind area and exterior finish plinth, as shown in the example of foam block sauna insulation:

How to properly insulate the floor and ceiling

As mentioned above, it is possible to produce thermal insulation inside the bath, including floors, only with the help of natural heaters. However, there is a technology in accordance with which it is possible to insulate the floor with foam plastic and similar materials. To do this, you just need to isolate them from the inner space of the steam room and this is done by means of a concrete screed. With this option, the “pie” of the design looks like this:

First, an inclined surface with a footing is arranged, on which a waterproofing film is placed, and on top - a layer of foam. The insulation is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film, after which it is poured concrete screed. A ladder is provided in the middle of the structure with drainage pipe for drainage and drainage.

It is possible to simplify the process if you simply use concrete mixed with foam balls or vermiculite for screeding. Then it will simultaneously serve as an insulating layer, and there is no need to put whole plates under the screed. Another option is to take expanded clay for floor insulation, and it will not need to be isolated from the interior of the bath. The method will fit when the wooden floors on the logs are supported by brick posts and you do not plan to arrange a ladder and drainage.

Expanded clay is poured between the lags into the cavity between the finishing and subfloor, or around the brick columns. Remember that to ensure the required degree of insulation, a layer of expanded clay is needed 3-4 times thicker than foam. Otherwise, there will be no sense from it. This material is loose and porous, so after getting wet it can dry out quickly enough, the main thing is that ventilation works.

Also, with the help of expanded clay, the ceiling is insulated in a bath with cold roof. The only condition is that the ceiling lining must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the insulation. From above, from the side of the attic space, the material does not need to be covered with anything. If you want to insulate the attic over the steam room with sawdust, then they should first be mixed with clay and the resulting solution should be laid between the logs.

The fact is that water vapor will gradually penetrate from the steam room through wooden floor and impregnate a layer of sawdust. As a result of this, they thermal insulation properties will decrease, in addition, a fungus can start from moisture. Clay, on the other hand, does not allow moisture to pass through and after drying, a good thermal insulation of the ceiling will be obtained. Sometimes a mixture of sawdust and cement is also used, but this option is not suitable for baths and saunas, cement can absorb a lot of moisture and the ceiling will lose heat.

For reference. If for internal insulation baths consider any basalt insulation, then it is not suitable not only because of the release of phenol. Mineral wool also absorbs moisture well, no matter how hard you try to wrap it up, except to hermetically seal the plate material in polyethylene.

We should not forget about reed mats. In the bath, they can be used everywhere and insulate any structures, but it is important to ensure good ventilation and airing of the steam room to dry this natural material after washing procedures.

About door insulation

Due to the large temperature difference between the street and the room inside the sauna a large number of heat can escape through front door if it has loose porches or is poorly insulated. The first problem is solved in the old-fashioned way - by stuffing felt strips onto elements door frame. As for insulation, there are several ways.

The simplest is the installation of a thermal curtain just outside the door. A string is attached to the wall above the entrance, on which a piece of dense fabric is suspended to the floor. In order to be able to move it away, the suspension must be provided on clips or make rings of wire with your own hands. Another way is to insulate wooden door from the inside, upholstered with foam rubber or the same felt. From above, the material is covered with dermantine on carnations, and a sealing roller is nailed along the perimeter of the box, as shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

As it turned out, the process of warming the enclosing structures of the bath is not as simple as it might seem. There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet on how to carry out thermal insulation with various heaters, but their environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health are not mentioned. Meanwhile, this is the main factor influencing the choice of material, because from this point of view, the bath should be built flawlessly.

Today, before starting the construction of a bath complex, each owner must ask himself how to insulate the bath from the inside. The construction market offers dozens of options. The main thing is not to get confused and choose such a heater for the bath so that it meets the building requirements.

Principles for choosing a heater

When buying material, you should pay attention to the most important features of an effective product:

1. environmental friendliness;
2. maximum degree of moisture resistance;
3. resistance to harmful microorganisms;
4. the ability not to deform during long-term operation;
5. thermal conductivity index: the higher it is, the better;
6. compatibility with building materials;
7. minimum value of moisture absorption;
8. compliance with fire safety requirements, standards of the sanitary and epidemiological station;
9. ability not to accumulate condensate;
10. ease of installation.

Varieties of insulation materials

Before you run around the shops and grab anything, you should understand the range of materials offered.

Bath heaters are organic and inorganic.

organic materials

This includes a group of heaters that are made from natural raw materials:

• sheep wool or felt;
• jute;
• tow;
• heat-insulating materials from peat, reeds and wood shavings.

Main advantage natural materials- environmental cleanliness.

But warming the bath from the inside with their help has a number of disadvantages:

1. Natural thermal insulation in the interior decoration of the sauna is a laborious and time-consuming process.
2. Natural heaters are short-lived, require regular updating.
3. Linen, moss, felt, tow - a favorable environment for the life and reproduction of insects, rodents and other harmful microorganisms.
4. They are suitable for dressing rooms, rest rooms, but are not suitable for thermal insulation inside hot rooms, even after additional treatment with fire retardants.
5. Purchase natural materials significantly "hit the wallet."

Inorganic or synthetic materials

There is no need to talk about absolute environmental friendliness here. Unlike natural ones, they will last for decades and provide better thermal insulation. Synthetic insulation for a bath is easy to install and resistant to high humidity and hot air.

Inorganic thermal insulation materials are divided into several types:

1.Polymer insulation

The group of these materials is foam plastic, foam plastic, honeycomb plastic insulation.

Styrofoam is easy to use to insulate the sauna ceiling. It does not absorb moisture, practical and easy to handle.

A novelty in the field of construction was foam glass, which embodied best properties foam and stone wool. The material lends itself to carving with a knife and is perfectly attached to the surface.

Despite the advantages, foam is not recommended for insulating the ceiling inside the sauna. On the one hand, it is considered a fire hazard. On the other hand, with an increase in air temperature, the foam deforms and releases bad smell, vapors of a toxic substance - phenol.

If you still decide to use foam, then it is better to insulate the walls of the dressing room with it from the outside.

2.Basalt insulation for a bath

Made from mountain parody, the material is used in last years demand. It has a number of advantages:

• Not subject to combustion;
• Resistant to humid air;
• Does not deform under the influence of temperatures;
• Excellent sound and heat insulation;
• Service life up to 30 years;
• It does not cause difficulties in the process of installation of the finish.

As for the shortcomings, with the exception of the cost of the material, there are none.

3.Mineral wool

The main difference between the production technology of mineral wool and the production of insulation from basalt fibers is the use of inexpensive industrial waste.

This has a positive effect on the price of the material, but negatively on the mechanical strength of the insulation. Therefore, during the installation process, be extremely careful.

Along with the disadvantages, mineral wool is not without advantages:

• Reliable thermal insulation;
• Not afraid of moisture;
• High degree of sound insulation.

4.Glass wool

Warming a glass wool bath will cost no more than its counterparts. And according to certain criteria, it is not inferior to other materials: it keeps heat well and is easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of glass wool is the instability to hot air.

5. Foil insulation

To insulate the ceiling of the sauna, it is recommended to use materials that reflect light. Mirror heaters have become widespread. Due to the special aluminum coating, they reflect and do not let heat through the ceiling. Foil insulation for a bath is recommended to be used in combination with classic materials.

Sauna insulation

Having decided on the choice of one or two heat-insulating materials, proceed directly to work. Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands is a difficult process that requires skills in the field of construction. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for it. Otherwise, it is better to resort to the help of Marisrub specialists.

It should be noted that the process of thermal insulation of a wooden or brick sauna is almost the same. Therefore, it is not worth focusing on an insignificant difference.

Before you start insulating the walls, ceiling and floor, it will be right to take care of the vapor barrier. Even if you have chosen a moisture-resistant insulation, during operation, condensate will gradually begin to penetrate through the inner layers of the heat-insulating material and have destructive effects.

To isolate the insulation from moisture, aluminum foil is used. The solidity of the vapor barrier is achieved by metallized adhesive tape, which is used to glue the joints of foil sheets.

We warm the floors

It is correct to start warming the sauna not from the ceiling or walls, but from the floor. In the bath, it is continuous or leaking. Given that the designs differ from each other, the insulation of each type occurs in different ways.

Better to use mineral wool. It is laid on a draft floor of boards and covered with a layer of waterproofing. The last step is pouring the floor.

When installing leaking floors, they dig a pit 50 cm deep and fill it with 5 cm of sand. After careful tamping, a 20-cm layer of insulation is laid - foam, which is poured cement mortar with styrofoam chips.

After drying, the concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing, while not forgetting about the walls.

Then again they are poured with cement with vermiculite, a reinforcing mesh is spread and covered with a layer of concrete with fine gravel. At this stage of work, a slope is made in the direction where the water flow will be.

The work is completed by laying the finishing floor on the posts.

We insulate the walls

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside occurs in stages:

1. Using wooden slats or timber, we apply a crate to the surface of the walls. The gap between the rails must be made smaller than the width of the heat-insulating material.

This is done in order for the insulation to fill the resulting spaces and prevent the formation of bridges for cold air. As a heater, it is recommended to use mineral wool or basalt fiber slabs.

2. After laying the heat insulator, cover it with any vapor barrier with foil. In this case, the reflective side of the aluminum surface is located inside the sauna.

The vapor barrier is placed between the rails, and fixed to them.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room is ready! By the same principle, other rooms of the sauna are insulated. Instead of foil for vapor barrier, thick kraft paper for wrapping is suitable.

When insulating buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is advised to increase the thickness of the basalt insulation so as not to lose heat.

We insulate the ceiling

Thermal insulation of the ceiling occurs by analogy with the principle of wall insulation.

According to the laws of physics, the closer to ceiling covering the hotter the air will be. Therefore, fire-resistant insulation is chosen for the ceiling. Mineral wool is perfect.

If there is an attic in the bath, then a layer of vapor barrier is made above the insulation - an aluminum film.

Insulation is placed under, above or between the rafters. If you are looking for an easy way, then lay the insulation in a continuous layer between the rafters.

Finally, cover the heat-insulating material with a layer of waterproofing. Let's not forget about air gap 20 mm in size. This is done taking into account the increase in insulation by a third of the width under the influence of moist air.

In the absence of an attic in the bath, expanded clay is often used as a heater for the ceiling. A layer of heat insulator of 25 cm is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier.

The construction market offers heat-insulating panels for warming the bath room. The main advantage of the material is the possibility of refusing waterproofing, minus - they require a reliable vapor barrier layer.

Properly executed interior decoration of the bath guarantees not only a pleasant stay in the company of friends, but also safety. So come to choose building materials and doing the job with the utmost responsibility.

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then most likely you have thought: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensate. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a separate structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

The wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a “perfect” microclimate in the steam room.

To make wood last longer, it is impregnated various formulations(additives - flame retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, anti-mould chemical coatings at high temperatures will release noxious fumes.

The main "ally" wood flooring- insulation, which should keep hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and prolongs the service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies compliance with the following points:

1. Steam must be accumulated and stored indoors.
2. The roof from the inside must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensate both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. the best way considered finishing with several layers:

1. First you need to use an insulating material that prevents the penetration of water.
2. Put a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall plates;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition, they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Quality insulation material should be:

• heat-resistant so that there is no fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensate does not accumulate;
• moisture resistant.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• filing from boards;
• beams
• sheathing.

A vapor barrier goes to the wall and ceiling, then a beam, then a heater. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. The overspending of materials in this case is inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensate. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to heat a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-recycling oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay up to two centimeters in order to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensate).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of the floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture in the form of condensate through the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well waterproofed ceiling and volume brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top of the aerated concrete walls, put foam glass insulation with 50 mm thick plates, and then plaster and make decorative wood paneling.

Decking ceiling

You don't see him as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method used to be considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. Now this is the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. On the crowns of the log house, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small (length is not more than 2.5 m). As a floor, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical way is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. There is interesting option ceilings with unedged sanded boards. They are placed on 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room may be larger. The emphasis on the beams will add zest and will look great.
4. On a supporting frame made of rails. Suitable for small areas and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can fill the surface with expanded clay or cover it with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a load-bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or boards made of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This design is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GUI is taken and laid on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done in a flash.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be closed with another sheet.
4. From the bottom of the beams we fix the vapor barrier.
5. Then we attach the slats of wood.
6. On the last step lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will get additional storage space - an attic or an attic.

panel ceiling

It's hard to do it yourself. To begin with, a special design is made of panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the transverse beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

1. Boards are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
2. Then we fasten narrow boards to the inside of the PCB, they will be the sides.
3. next step there will be a PIP installation.
4. In the resulting space of the panels we put ecowool (or any other).
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
6. The final stage will be the installation of boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people began to apply the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

And you can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. And for working with fiberglass, a good protective suit is shown.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• What material is the bath made of?
• what oven is worth.

How to insulate outside

In order for the steam to remain inside and not escape to the outside, you need to achieve the effect of a "thermos". Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need a heater for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “layered cake” from these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern views heaters:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistance to overheating (fireproof).

Cotton wool thickness from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is laid on the PIP. To work with it, you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically advantageous, because little fuel is required to heat the room. This heater is:

• mineral wool with an aluminum film (produced in rolls and plates);
• foil-based polymer sheet (has a small thickness, is available in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation holds high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the whole steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath it is necessary to make competent ventilation.

Expanded clay

By appearance resembles small clay stones with pores. It absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak side. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• it does not form bacteria and fungi;
• cheap product;
• it is easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a foam in liquid form, it is referred to thermal insulation materials. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries);
• does not ignite;
• serves for a long time;
• it does not form mold and fungus.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as "grandfather". To make the finished mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
• no mold protection
• when dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Enough effective method keeping warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also light and spreads over the entire area, filling voids. Its main disadvantage is the absorption of moisture. This reduces thermal insulation.

Product Features for Insulation

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. There are the following types with a foil layer listed below:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• ruberoid;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide range of waterproofing products, such as foil-coated kraft paper, building membrane and other products, are available in specialized department stores. Although you can save money and buy a regular plastic film or roofing material.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors it is recommended to use expanded clay.

Special preliminary preparation is not required. For convenience, slats from a bar can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the even distribution of expanded clay. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay on the entire surface (thickness - 30 cm). A regular garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic will be used in the future and the floor is provided, then the expanded clay is laid according to the level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is quite suitable. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-perform method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But because of its cheapness, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 more for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help to avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, then the process will take place in several steps:

1. is taken unedged board(5 cm) and is attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue-and-groove aspen rails are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. outside the roof we lay vapor barrier material;
5. on top of the laid mixture we distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
6. then we lay a film of polypropylene;
7. on top of the resulting structure we put boards, this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, then the result should be a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

dry method of insulation

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkin E.N. In their book they suggest the following method:

1. we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we process them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
3. we spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, and preferably a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and observe technological process, then:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less wood is required;
• the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive points, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• choose all the materials that will suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.