Monolith / 24.05.2020

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside with and without wood upholstery. Features of the process of warming a brick bath Warming a steam room in a brick bath from the inside

Warming a brick bath from the inside with your own hands can be done quickly enough if you prepare all the tools and materials in advance. Be sure to consider the characteristics of the walls. A brick structure benefits in that you do not have to think about protecting the structure from fire. Waterproofing is also not required. The disadvantages of brick buildings include their low thermal conductivity. It is for this reason that heat is not completely stored, preventing the building from warming up well.

One of the disadvantages of a brick is its low thermal conductivity, so a bath made of this material will need to be additionally insulated from the inside.

How to insulate a brick bath? This question worries many owners of suburban areas. The thermal insulation of the walls increases thermal insulation properties baths. When it is used in winter and autumn, the bulk of the heat goes to heating the brick. Insulation prevents freezing of the walls. If you cover the building outside with clapboard, the heat will still be poorly preserved. To heat brick walls, you will need a lot of firewood.

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath

In order to reduce fuel consumption, it is necessary to insulate the building from the inside. If the installation is done correctly, then the heat-insulating material will keep the warm air inside the room. Heat will not escape through the cracks from the building.

Many owners of private houses ask how to insulate a brick bath. The easiest way to do this is to build an additional wall. It is best to use in the work those materials that do not emit components. The most popular material for thermal insulation is timber, it has good heat-saving characteristics.

finished wall will look like a multi-layered "pie". You can insulate a brick bath from the inside very quickly. The scheme is as follows:

First, fill the crate on the walls of a brick bath from the inside.
When the frame is completely ready, make waterproofing.
After that, you can start building a wall of timber.
Fill another crate on top of it, cover the wall of the beam with fiberglass. Use a stapler to fix the material.

Please note that the fiberglass does not need to be strongly stretched. It should hang freely in the gaps of the crate. Thanks to the overlap, you can easily place the tile insulation by inserting it into the gaps left between the crate. it basic circuit brick bath insulation.

For indoor steam, you need to make a fence. To do this, cover the insulation material with foil. If you want, you can use a film vapor barrier instead. When all the layers of the "pie" are ready, fill the lining on the walls of the bath.

Regardless of the choice of material for insulation, its thickness should not be less than 10 cm. In this case, the insulation brick walls will be of good quality. Always ask the seller for a certificate.

It is very important that the insulation does not emit toxic substances when heated. It is best to choose basalt insulation, which are produced by well-known manufacturers. Such products can be absolutely safely used indoors, it is safe for health.

Remember that warming the steam room in a brick bath must be done.

In this case, harmful substances will be released into the air. Basalt-based materials are most preferred.

Finish the steam room with foil fiberglass, then the thermal insulation will be effective.

Insulation of the foundation and ceiling

The heat from the building leaves not only through the brick walls. The ceiling and foundation can become places through which hot air can escape. That is why the insulation of a brick bath should include comprehensive protection of the building. Develop a work plan in advance, focusing on the family budget. You must have finished circuit building insulation.

The process of warming a brick bath consists of several stages. Lay basalt wool on the ceiling. On top, apply a mixture of clay and sand in 2 layers, add sawdust to it. Competently performed work will help speed up the heating of a brick bath, save fuel.

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Carefully insulate the floor of a brick building, but first protect the foundation from the outside. If this is not done, then floor insulation is meaningless, because hot air will escape from the room through the cracks.

Keep in mind that high humidity acts on the boards of the bath floor. In addition, sudden changes in temperature have an effect. Insulate the floor in stages. First, fill the interior of the foundation with expanded clay, slag can be used instead.

Insulate the walls of the foundation from the outside, you can use penoplex. The slabs can be glued to the foundation with a special mixture or mastic. Seal the seams between the plates, and blow out the corners with foam.

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Conclusion

It is necessary to insulate the bath from the inside in a complex manner. Fill the underground with expanded clay, insulate the foundation with foam plastic. Do not forget that you need to insulate the ceiling. To insulate the walls from the inside, use basalt wool, lining or timber. Building protection must be multi-layered. Now you all know how to properly insulate a brick bath.

outdoor or internal insulation baths are a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

resistance to steam and high temperatures;
good fire-fighting properties;
environmental friendliness;
low hygroscopicity;
the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. many fans natural materials they insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling. wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

installation procedure and required volume works depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not take place from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, preventing the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, therefore small room the steam room is easier to warm naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
Foil.
Insulating tape.
Self-tapping screws.
Aluminum adhesive tape.
Insulation, calculated on the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

screwdriver;
level and plumb.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The technology is like this:

We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.
The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary
We glue all the joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Usually foil for insulation comes with the material.
We fix the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for tightness. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.
On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints
We close the front part of the ceiling with a clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, through it usually leaves the room a large number of heated air. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. On device wooden floors material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are processed silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

One of the most common building materials used for the construction of saunas and baths is brick. Such walls must be insulated, as it will not be able to provide effective heat retention, which is necessary for a bath room. Insulation of a brick bath can be done immediately after the walls and roof of the structure are built.

A properly insulated bath or sauna will retain heat and warm up faster. Each type of bath has its own method of insulation. To choose the best option, it is necessary to build on the material from which the building itself was built and because of how often the room will be used. You can do the insulation of a brick bath from the inside with your own hands.

Thermal insulation materials

Mandatory requirements for heaters: environmental friendliness and resistance to high temperatures.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside with your own hands can be done using the following materials:

mineral wool;
reed wool;
porous substances;
foil-based materials;
expanded polystyrene;
moss, clay, etc.;
expanded clay or slag.

Most often, mineral wool is used for do-it-yourself insulation, since this material does not emit harmful toxic substances when heated, that is, it is environmentally friendly.

It is not recommended to use glass wool and polystyrene for warming the steam room, as they have little heat resistance. At high temperatures, they can char and toxic substances enter the room.

It is recommended to choose natural materials for thermal insulation of real Russian baths, that is, those built from logs and beams. Bulk seals are used to insulate the ceiling and floors of the bath. They are also used as bulk insulation for walls. Such a layer can be laid between the vapor barrier layer and the finish. For the premises of the steam room, it is recommended to use materials made from basalt.

Materials for insulation

Regardless of the chosen insulation, the procedure for conducting work on thermal insulation the brick wall of the bath from the inside with your own hands is the following:

Works on the device of a wooden frame from bars. For these purposes, a material with a small thickness is used. It will be enough to choose a beam with a section of 30x40 mm or 50x50 mm. Optionally, it is allowed to use steel slats instead of wooden bars.
If applied wooden bars, then they must be treated with antiseptic compounds that are designed specifically for wood used in rooms with high humidity.
Insulation from the inside with the selected thermal insulation. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a mineral or basalt sealant.
Arrangement of a vapor barrier layer on top of a foil-coated insulation. Such a surface reflects warm air well. You can fix such material on the wall with a construction stapler.
Sheathing device. It must be placed between the insulation layer and the finishing material so that a small gap for ventilation is formed.
Carry out finishing work. Usually, wood and derivatives are used for these purposes. For different rooms it is recommended to use your own type of wood: linden and larch are suitable for a steam room, for other rooms it is advisable to use pine.

ceiling insulation technology

Under the draft board, it is necessary to fix the slats for the crate. The gap between them should be 50 cm.
Lay and fix fiberglass in the gaps between the rails.
Lay a thermal insulation layer 50 mm thick. For these purposes, kaolin or basalt wool is used.
Lay foil with foil.
Carry out tiling work. Experts recommend using building material made of wood. A lining can also be used for these purposes.

floor insulation technology

When insulating a bath room, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

thermal insulation materials in bath rooms must be fixed with elements made of galvanized, brass or bronze. That is, it is necessary to give preference to those that do not rust;
when insulating a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, it must be borne in mind that this process differs from that in other rooms, since a bath is a room with high humidity and high temperature. Therefore, it is recommended that all wooden elements be treated with antiseptic compounds specially designed for bath rooms and saunas. They will be able to protect the wood from fungus, algae and insects;
when making insulation of the ceiling inside the room, it is impossible to use materials that can be deformed from high temperatures;
regardless of which insulation is chosen, its thickness should be at least 100 mm.

Properly executed thermal insulation in the bath will be the key to a comfortable stay in it. Therefore, it is important to adhere to the recommended production technology.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside: brick thermal insulation

Brick walls must be insulated, as they will not be able to provide effective heat retention, which is necessary for a bath room.

How to do the insulation of a brick bath from the inside with your own hands?

One of the disadvantages of a brick is its low thermal conductivity, so a bath made of this material will need to be additionally insulated from the inside.

How to insulate a brick bath? This question worries many owners of suburban areas. The thermal insulation of the walls increases the thermal insulation properties of the bath. When it is used in winter and autumn, the bulk of the heat goes to heating the brick. Insulation prevents freezing of the walls. If you cover the building outside with clapboard, the heat will still be poorly preserved. To heat brick walls, you will need a lot of firewood.

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath

Scheme of fastening the crate to a brick wall.

The finished wall will look like a multilayer "pie". You can insulate a brick bath from the inside very quickly. The scheme is as follows:

First, fill the crate on the walls of a brick bath from the inside.
When the frame is completely ready, make waterproofing.
After that, you can start building a wall of timber.
Fill another crate on top of it, cover the wall of the beam with fiberglass. Use a stapler to fix the material.

Regardless of the choice of material for insulation, its thickness should not be less than 10 cm. In this case, the insulation of brick walls will be of high quality. Always ask the seller for a certificate.

The scheme of insulation of a brick wall from the inside.

Remember that warming the steam room in a brick bath must be done.

In this case, harmful substances will be released into the air. Basalt-based materials are most preferred.

Finish the steam room with foil fiberglass, then the thermal insulation will be effective.

Insulation of the foundation and ceiling

Keep in mind that high humidity acts on the boards of the bath floor. In addition, sudden changes in temperature have an effect. Insulate the floor in stages. First, fill the interior of the foundation with expanded clay, slag can be used instead.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside: thermal insulation schemes

Warming a brick bath from the inside with your own hands can be done quickly enough if you prepare all the tools and materials in advance. Be sure to consider the characteristics of the walls.

How to insulate a brick bath with your own hands correctly

Quite often, bathhouses are built of bricks. When they were built by one of milestones the insulation of a brick bath from the inside is considered. The fact is that walls made of this material cannot retain heat for a long time.

When a brick bath is being built, wall insulation can be done using various building materials. To provide high-quality thermal protection from the inside, so that the heat stays inside the building for a long time, information on this topic will help.

Materials used for insulation

After the walls are erected, the roof is mounted and the doors are installed, proceed to the interior decoration of the building. Insulation of a brick bath must be done in such a way that the optimal microclimate is maintained in the premises for a long time and temperature regime. It also helps to keep the heat inside the building. decorative trim walls.

Usually, do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside is done by installing a multilayer thermal insulation structure. One of its layers is laid from plates, and the other from rolled materials coated on the basis of foil, since this type of thermal protection perfectly reflects IF radiation and protects the insulation from the negative effects of moist air.

To perform this work qualitatively, you need to know how to insulate the walls in a brick bath.

Experts advise using the following materials:

mineral wool in rolls or slabs;
glass wool;
peat or cellulose slabs of porous structure;
reed mats;
boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be borne in mind that heat-insulating materials based on polystyrene, like glass wool, do not have good heat resistance. For this reason, they should not be used when the steam room is insulated in a brick bath, in particular its walls and ceiling. To reduce heat loss through flooring, as an additional heat insulator, a layer of expanded clay is used.

Foil-based heaters have proven themselves well. As you know, materials such as foil film are expensive, so kraft paper can be used for interior decoration of bath rooms with a low degree of humidity. The result is savings. For example, in a rest room for insulation, you can use cheaper materials.

Thermal insulation of the floor in brick baths

Insulation options that are suitable for baths under construction are not suitable for thermal protection of bath buildings that are undergoing major repairs. But the sequence of work in both cases has much in common.

When insulating a brick bath from the inside, the scheme provides that it is necessary to start work from the floor covering. Thermal protection of the floor is needed, since a person moves barefoot on its surface, which means that it should be warmed up as much as possible.

Before you insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, you should create an air gap between the foundation of the building and the floor covering. Thus, sufficient thermal insulation will be ensured.

When arranging the gap, support bars are installed on the base of the room, and expanded clay is poured between them, the layer of which should be approximately 2 times the thickness of the walls in the building. On top of the supporting elements, logs are mounted, made of wooden beams, which are pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Plates of heat-shielding materials are placed between them, and the gaps formed during operation between the lags and the insulation layer should be eliminated by using polyurethane foam. Then you need to lay glassine on the floor, and on top of it make a flooring of plywood sheets or boards. Mount the main floor covering at the final stage.

Features of thermal protection of walls in baths

After the completion of the thermal insulation of the floor, they begin to create protection for the walls. Before insulating a brick bath from the inside, in order to prevent the growth of bacteria, the walls in them are impregnated by special means. This procedure is required only for processing some rooms - these are shower rooms and steam rooms.

There are features regarding how to properly insulate a brick bath (walls in it):

To reduce the degree of heat loss, the gaps between windows and walls are eliminated with polyurethane foam.
The frame on which the sheathing is mounted is constructed from wooden beams and fixed directly on the brickwork.
It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions in work, since they have the property of conducting thermal energy.
Mineral wool or polystyrene plates used as insulation are placed in the cells that make up the crate.
The heat-insulating material is fixed on the masonry with dowel umbrellas or special adhesives are used.
Before sticking thermal protection, bath walls made of bricks must be treated with a penetrating primer.

After fixing the main heat-insulating material on the walls, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer of kraft paper, or foil film or other materials.

You need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, kraft paper will get wet and will soon become unusable.

For such places, foil-based film is best suited.

If necessary, a counter-lattice can be stuffed onto the lathing bars, as a result of which a gap will appear between the outer skin and the vapor barrier layer. Then a lining is nailed to the counter-lattice.

In the event that the bath has a large quadrature, its walls should be insulated on all floors in order to avoid significant heat losses during operation. If there is a loggia, it is also subject to insulation. In addition, to ensure the thermal protection of the building, the installation of solid entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing contours will not damage.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them. This is especially important to do when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of foam is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture about 10 centimeters thick is poured on top of it.
To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam chips to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
To the rough surface of the ceiling, the bars of the crate are attached from the inside, placing basalt wool in slabs between them.
A foil film is laid over the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

If the room is properly insulated from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that visiting the bathhouse will bring maximum pleasure.

How to insulate a brick bath: warming a steam room in a brick bath from the inside with your own hands, how to properly insulate the walls of a brick steam room and how, the diagram in the photo and video

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside

After the construction of the bath, it is too early to rest and dream about a steam room with a broom, because it is necessary to insulate the structure. Brick walls have high thermal conductivity - this means that it will take a long time to heat the stove, and the temperature will drop quickly. To keep the heat as much as possible, you need to figure out how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Why is internal insulation necessary?

A bath is a room that is not used daily, therefore, during the cold period, its brick walls freeze through, and a lot of heat is spent on warming them up. Exterior finish will not be able to significantly affect this situation, and the placement of a heater inside will make it possible to accumulate the temperature in the room and not waste additional resources.

The choice of insulation

For effective insulation from the inside, it is necessary to lay a layer of material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. The temperature in the bath rises to high levels, therefore, materials that do not contain toxic components that actively evaporate into the air when heated are selected for thermal insulation. Insulation should not support combustion, so as not to cause a fire. Another important requirement is resistance to moisture, because the bath is constantly damp. Considering all of the above factors, the following are recommended as a heater for brick walls and a bath ceiling:

basalt wool;
Styrofoam;
expanded clay for floor and ceiling;
foil foam.

Floor insulation

The base of the bath is concrete foundation through which cold can freely penetrate. Warming the strip foundation from the inside will significantly reduce heat loss. Best way freezing control - thermal insulation with foam plastic, produced in the form of plates. It is not afraid of moisture and negative temperatures, so it will last for decades. It is quite easy to install the material. The insulation is tightly glued to the concrete surface using mastic or an adhesive mixture, the panel joints are glued with a sealant, and the corners are blown with foam. This layer will prevent the cold from penetrating into the concrete foundation.

Note! Expanded clay will become an inexpensive and reliable material for insulation and waterproofing. The space under the floor is covered with a layer of granules that is 1.5–2 times the thickness of the walls. Sand is poured under the expanded clay with a layer of up to 20 cm.

Insulation of the concrete floor begins with the implementation of waterproofing. Most often, it is coated with liquid rubber mastic or covered with roofing material. From above, thermal insulation is carried out with foam, which allows steam to pass through and is resistant to temperature changes. The next step: fixing the reinforcing mesh and pouring a monolithic screed. After it dries, the floor covering is laid.

Expanded clay is a suitable option for insulating a wooden floor. Beams and logs treated with an antiseptic are laid on it. A vapor barrier film is laid on top, and subfloors are laid. On the edged board the foam is tightly laid and covered with a waterproofing sheet. The final stage is the finishing floor.

Ways to insulate the walls of the bath

You can keep the heat inside the bath by making an additional wall of timber or by laying a thick layer of insulation. For the construction of a wooden partition, you will need a timber processed special composition protecting from moisture. Process technology:

A crate is fixed on a brick wall.
Using a stapler, a waterproofing film is fixed.
A wall is mounted from a bar 10 × 10 cm, the lumber is fastened with self-tapping screws.
The second tier of the crate is stuffed.
A roll of fiberglass is fixed on the racks with brackets. The material does not stretch, it is fixed with sagging.
Insulation is placed between the guides under the fiberglass. As insulation, mineral wool or foam can be used. The latter option is suitable for all rooms, except for the steam room.
A foil is fixed, which serves as a reflector of heat and wet steam.
The finishing lining of the walls with clapboard is in progress.

The second option is to replace additional wall from wood with a layer of insulation. The sequence of work will be as follows:

A waterproofing film is fixed on a brick wall.
A wooden beam 5 × 5 cm, treated with an antiseptic, is stuffed vertically. The distance between the racks is chosen 1 cm less than the width of the insulation, which will allow you to tightly lay the material and not create cold bridges.
Insulation is laid with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
A sheet of waterproofing is attached on top of the material.
The second layer of the crate is stuffed from a bar, similar to that used earlier.
Fiberglass is freely attached to the racks.
Insulation plates are tightly inserted into the gaps between the crate beam and covered with fiberglass.
Next, a layer of material that reflects thermal radiation is fixed with a stapler. For a steam room, only basalt wool is suitable as a heater, the insulating layer is made of aluminum foil, which does not emit harmful components when heated. In other rooms, penofol can be used for insulation and waterproofing, which reflects up to 90% of radiation and is designed for temperatures up to 100ºC. The foil material is glued at the joints with aluminum tape.
The walls are being finished with clapboard. The boards are fixed at a distance of 1–1.5 cm from the aluminum layer. This air gap is necessary for ventilation and separation of wood and aluminum foil, heated to a high temperature.

The internal wall cladding is made of lining of various types of wood. For a steam room with high temperature and humidity, linden, cedar, and larch are used. They have low thermal conductivity and high resistance to moisture. The rest room is sheathed with pine boards, the wood has a pleasant appearance, and when heated, it spreads healing substances.

Note! Terms high humidity affect metal fasteners, causing rapid corrosion. In order for the screws to last a long time, choose fasteners with galvanization.

The total layer of the insulation structure should be about 22 cm, then it will serve as effective thermal insulation. Several types of insulation can be used in the pie, closer to the brick walls, where moisture can penetrate, it is more correct to lay polystyrene foam boards.

ceiling insulation technology

Hot air rises to the ceiling, so it’s worth figuring out how to properly insulate it. A popular material for do-it-yourself thermal insulation work is basalt wool, which is resistant to high temperatures and environmentally friendly. Styrofoam is also suitable for this purpose, it is easy to cut and has low thermal conductivity. To reflect infrared heat rays, you will need foil or a material with a reflective layer. In some cases, improvised means are used for insulation - clay and straw or sawdust. They are mixed in a ratio of 2 to 3, moistened and laid on a crate in 30 cm increments or on fiberglass. After drying, thermal insulation with a layer of foil is laid on the clay base, and sheets of plywood are stuffed on top.

Note! When working with mineral wool, it is important to perform high-quality waterproofing. The first layer will be foil, spread out with an overlap of 3-4 cm and glued at the joints with metallized tape. Then the insulation is tightly laid and covered with a vapor barrier film on top.

You can replace cotton wool with foam, but only lay mineral material over the steam room. You can cover the warming cake with boards or plywood. The interior decoration of the ceiling is made of the same material as the walls.

Properly executed insulation of a bath with brick walls will save fuel and enjoy hot steam.

How to insulate a brick bath from the inside - internal insulation of a brick bath

Learn how to insulate a brick bath from the inside. The article describes the technology of warming the floor, walls and ceiling of the bath.

How to insulate a wall in a brick bath

Finishing the steam room should be carried out using heat insulators that do not emit substances harmful to the human body. For this, heaters that are not subject to moisture from fiberglass or basalt are suitable. Bath insulation should be comprehensive and include insulation of elements such as the floor, foundation, roof and walls. Let us consider in detail how to properly insulate, and what methods are used for each element.

Foundation

The concrete that makes up the foundation is a strong conductor of cold. Before erecting a wall, it is insulated with roofing felt so that cold and moisture from the ground do not fall. However, this is not enough. It is necessary to finish the walls of the foundation from the base in order to increase heat retention and minimize subsidence of the foundation

This is important, because in winter the earth expands under the influence of cold, while cracks form in the foundation, which destroy it. Of the materials, you should choose penoplex, it is cheaper than polyurethane foam, but its installation takes more time

The second material also works well and can be assembled in a day.

Floors in the bath

To protect the floor from earth moisture, before installing the plates, an expanded clay pillow is needed. The thickness of its layer depends on the thickness of the walls, and should be twice as large. A basement is not needed for a bath, so expanded clay is completely covered over the entire inner surface of the foundation. The floor in the bath is preferably made of concrete slabs. It handles moisture better than wood.

wall decoration

The insulation is fixed on a pre-fixed cobbled crate, it will prevent the material from slipping, protect it from compression, while retaining its original properties. When choosing a heater, you should consider what type is used: expanded clay, foam foam, isolon, or others. Scheme of thermal insulation of bath walls:

Masonry is done in several passes, the brick is periodically poured with prepared lime mortar.
Insulation boards are located from the inside, between the bearing wall and the finish.
A lining or wooden panels are attached on top of the insulation.

Roof finish

Complex insulation of a steam room in a brick bath cannot do without a ceiling. Steam rises first of all, so the roof of the steam room is especially susceptible to high temperatures and high humidity. Therefore, he needs to pay no less attention than the walls. For the roof, specialists in insulating the bath from the inside recommend using mineral wool with a double-sided waterproofing coating. For these purposes, foil fiberglass is well suited. It is not recommended to use expanded polystyrene. At such temperatures, it releases substances dangerous to the body.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? It is most effective to insulate the inner surface of the walls of a brick bath using natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any heat at high temperatures. harmful substances. In particular, mineral wool webs, available in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for this purpose.

The only drawback of such a heater is the ability to absorb moisture, which, by definition, is always in abundance in any bath. Therefore, the heat-shielding layer will require additional waterproofing, which protects the mineral wool from steam and water.

The procedure for installing insulation on internal walls will be as follows:

on a brick wall wooden slats a supporting frame is being erected;
in the resulting cells is laid thermal insulation material. In addition to mineral wool, more than modern materials. For example, foil foam is not only absolutely insensitive to moisture and temperatures of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny surface of the foil it is able to reflect heat back into the bath rooms;
the entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc. To ensure complete moisture resistance, waterproofing material should be laid with an overlap of 10-20 cm. To give additional strength to the joints, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed. wooden clapboard.

Beyond the walls internal thermal insulation brick bath should include measures to reduce heat loss through the floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;
thermal insulation mats are lined and fixed in one way or another;
a layer of waterproofing is laid;
the finishing floor is equipped with the widest possible boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to consider the material from which the subfloor is made. If it is formed by boards, then they will need to be pre-treated with a means to prevent wood decay. The concrete subfloor itself can play the role of thermal insulation

Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

The concrete subfloor itself is able to play the role of thermal insulation. Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;
a solid heat insulator (polystyrene) is laid;
a mixture of cement, sand and crushed foam is poured;
sheets of roofing material are overlapped;
the reinforcing mesh is lined;
a concrete solution is poured with the addition of crushed stone of a fine fraction;
at a height of 10-20 cm, a finished plank floor is created.

The resulting design is advantageous in that it is ventilated. And this means a significant increase in the service life of both the finished floor and the heat-insulating concrete base under him.

How to insulate the floor in the bath? You will find out the answer to this question by reading this article.

And in this article, read about the insulation of the roof of the bath.

Ceiling insulation

Through the ceiling with poor-quality thermal insulation, up to a quarter of all the heat generated by the stove can go away

Therefore, to reduce losses, the insulation of the ceiling should be given no less attention than in the case of walls. The most suitable insulating material for this purpose is lightweight and non-combustible fiberglass

Work on the insulation of the ceiling in the bath is carried out as follows:

fiberglass canvases or mats are laid out on the ceiling boards;
a mixture is poured on top, consisting of equal parts of sawdust, sand and clay. The optimal thickness of this layer is 20-25 cm;
after the previous layer has dried, foam sheets are laid out on it;
the entire surface is poured with a small layer of cement screed.

In addition, ordinary expanded clay is able to provide excellent thermal insulation. With a backfill thickness of about 30-40 cm, it will be able to reliably retain precious heat.

Insulation of a bath from foam blocks. Read about it here.

And this article talks about the insulation of a wooden bath.

Here https://ru-house.net/stroitelstvo/ you will find many more informative articles about building a house.

Insulation of the walls of the bath features of the process

When you have completed the process of floor insulation, we begin the insulation of the walls from the inside.

Please note that it is not necessary to loosen or process the brick tub from inside the bath room, since this wall surface will later disappear behind the wood sheathing for the steam room

The only thing that will need to be done is to impregnate the brick wall in order to protect it from bacteria, but this procedure is only relevant for rooms such as the steam room and shower room.

The walls of the bath should be insulated in exactly the same way as other rooms, and not only baths. However, there are a number of process features that are characteristic exclusively for this type of work:

to reduce the number of possible heat losses, close the gaps between the wall and windows with polyurethane foam; the frame for mounting the cladding must be made of wooden beams, then attach it directly to the brick tub; it is highly undesirable to use metal hangers and profiles for work, since they tend to conduct heat; insulation in the form of mineral wool or polystyrene plates is placed in the cells of the crate: the insulation is attached to the tub with dowel umbrellas or with a special adhesive; if you are going to stick a heat insulator, then it is better to treat the brick wall of the bath with a penetrating primer.

So, when the main insulation has already been applied to the walls, it is necessary to apply a layer of vapor barrier, which can be used as kraft paper, glassine or foil film, which, by the way, will be the most optimal material for the steam room and shower room. For example, the same kraft paper, when used in places of high humidity, can get wet over time and become unusable.

If necessary, stuff the counter-batten onto the battens of the batten. This will create a gap between the outer skin and the vapor barrier. Then the lining should be attached to the counter-lattice using thin planks of wood.

When your bath or sauna has a large area and occupies several floors, it is not necessary to insulate the walls from the inside everywhere to prevent heavy losses heat during operation. If a loggia is attached to the bath, it is also subject to insulation. You should also install good entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing circuits.

Warming outside

Before starting to insulate a brick bath from the outside, it is necessary to carefully analyze the issue of bricklaying:

The mortar must fill the entire space between the bricks evenly, at the same thickness; First row brickwork should be made only from solid elements; Beams rest on a bonded row; As for clay bricks, before laying them, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the brick, especially if the bath is arranged in summer time of the year.

In order to insulate the bath from the outside of the building, it is necessary to lay expanded clay between the walls with a thickness of 40-50 centimeters. You can also use slag, fluff of lime, sawdust and sand for this.

But it would be more rational to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside with slab insulation. Direct fixation of the layers of insulation occurs with the help of a synthetic binder. The plates are placed in spacers at a distance of half a meter from each of the plates. Read the instructions on which stove to choose for a bath.

Mount the slab insulation in such a way that there are small gaps between the elements. They are necessary for the ventilation of the facade, because otherwise, the entire surface during the rainy season will be covered with mold formations.

How to insulate a steam room

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath as a whole differs little from the creation of thermal insulation in other rooms of the bath. The differences are only in the need for additional thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the steam room, as well as in the use of metal foil both on the ceiling and on the walls.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be as follows.

The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.
Wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm are nailed to the ceiling. These bars will have a dual purpose: they will fasten the paper by themselves and become the basis for fastening the outer covering.
The entire ceiling is sealed with metal foil. To fix it, it is best to use a special adhesive tape, on one of the surfaces of which a layer of aluminum is applied. There should be no gaps between sheets or strips of foil, as hot steam will penetrate to wet the ceiling. This is fraught with a deterioration in thermal insulation qualities and can lead to the development of putrefactive processes.
Over the bars, wooden slats are stuffed, to which, in turn, the main ceiling covering from a wooden lining will be attached.

Similarly, the foil is fastened to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

As a sheathing material in the steam room, it is best to use pine lining. Pine perfectly resists both high temperatures and the effects of hot steam from the heater. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will add a special aroma to the atmosphere of the steam room.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for masters without extensive experience in such work.

The most important thing is to choose a suitable insulation that is resistant to high temperatures and high humidity. In the case of using thermal insulation that is afraid of moisture, it should be carefully isolated from the bath atmosphere or from precipitation in case of outdoor work.

Read in the article

Insulation of a brick bath

When choosing a material for building a bath, many opt for a capital brick building, which will faithfully last for many years. And this is no coincidence. Brick walls are not afraid of various insects that are happy to eat wood fibers in a log bath or from logs, are not subject to decay, do not swell under the influence of moisture and do not dry out in hot summer from solar radiation.

But brick walls also have their drawbacks. These include:

large own weight;
high thermal conductivity.

And if the first drawback is solved by creating a reliable tape or column foundation, then the second one requires a careful thermal insulation device to keep the heat inside the steam room.

Which side to insulate - from the inside or outside?

Before considering possible options materials used for insulation, you need to figure out - to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside or from the inside?

How to insulate walls?

After we have decided on which side the brick walls should be insulated from, let's see what can be used for insulation and how the entire insulating “pie” looks in layers.

In ancient times, to insulate the walls in the bath, they used the most different material- flax, moss, hemp, felt. As you yourself understand, the service life of such heaters was small. Materials of plant origin dried out, rotted, were eaten by insects and became unusable, and often caused a fire in the bath, as they flared up from the slightest spark.

But progress does not stand still, and today many types of heaters of various chemical compositions are produced industrially. These are glass wool, and basalt fiber wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane-based insulation.

The numbers in the figure indicate:

Wall insulation with Rockwool boards

One of the most simple ways to reliably insulate the walls of the bath is to use special plates Rockwool "Sauna Butts", produced specifically for the insulation of saunas and baths.

The insulation is placed between them by surprise, after which the seams between the plates are glued with a special metallized adhesive tape, which prevents moisture from entering the insulation layer.

Wall insulation with ecowool

Another type of modern materials, increasingly used as insulation for brick walls, is ecowool.

If ecowool is produced in accordance with the technology, then it is a highly environmentally friendly insulation that is not afraid of fire or water, does not support the spread of mold and fungus, and can serve for many years.

The only thing to remember when buying is that you should not save and buy insulation from unknown dealers, since under the guise of ecowool you can simply buy ground waste paper, which does not at all correspond to even a small part of the declared characteristics.

So that the heat does not leave the steam room, you should take care not only of the insulation of the walls, but also think about the insulation of the floor.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible. . When insulating the ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard represents a hot pipe passing through the floor structures, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation from non-combustible material

The place of passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the node of the passage of the pipe through the ceiling is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or timber. By following the recommendations in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

Insulation of a brick bath

How to insulate brick walls? Why is it better to use stone wool? What are the disadvantages of foam? All answers in one article!

Source:

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath

It's time to move on to the most important thing: to the insulation of brick walls. To do this, you need to tune in to the fact that the bath will “lose” a significant amount of internal space. You just have to make along the brick load-bearing walls, additional wooden ones. That is, make the finish with clapboard, vapor barrier, insulation itself, waterproofing and leave a ventilation gap between the brick and the insulation. Now about this in more detail.

Installation of vertical bars

Wooden blocks 40-50 mm thick are vertically attached to brick walls. They should first be treated with a deep penetration antiseptic, as they will be operated in harsh conditions, especially in winter. The distance between them is 60-80 cm. Then a waterproofing film is attached to these bars. All joints are sealed with tape.

After that, carefully, without tearing the film, is going wooden frame for the heater itself. The thickness of the frame depends on the climatic latitudes: if it is warm and moderate, 50 mm is enough, if it is harsh, cold, then 100 mm is already needed. The frame is assembled to match the size of the insulation used. The best option- Rockwool mineral basalt wool, especially if it is in the form of plates and has a reflective foil.

Having assembled the frame and laid the insulation in it, it is worth taking care of the vapor barrier of the bath. To do this, lay a layer of foil on top of the insulation. For example, Penotherm is perfect. Only all joints must also be glued with adhesive tape for greater sealing of the insulation.

Then, carefully, without damaging the vapor barrier, wooden blocks 25-30 mm thick are attached. And already the final finish is mounted on them - lining or. Now you can list all the layers of the "pie" that was just made, starting with brick walls and ending with finishing:

brick walls
wooden bars
waterproofing layer
Wooden frame with insulation
Vapor barrier layer
wooden bars
decorative trim

It should be noted that between brick wall and insulation has a ventilation gap of 40-50 mm. for the thickness of the bars. There is also an air gap between the lining and insulation 25-30 mm. In a word, the total thickness of the insulated wall, not counting the brickwork, will be 20-25 cm. This will greatly affect the internal areas of the room.

The bars on the brick were fixed vertically for a reason. This is due to the fact that if, in severe frost, the walls accidentally “cry”, the water flowing down them will go down unhindered. Although, proper insulation baths, this should not be allowed. For the same reason, special vents are made in the lower part of the walls for "breathing" and the elimination of condensate.

How to insulate floors and ceilings will not be considered here. These activities are carried out according to the usual and standard scheme. But for those who are interested, there are relevant articles on the site.

From the foregoing, it can be seen that the insulation of a brick bath is a rather costly undertaking, both in terms of materials and in terms of physical work. To achieve good results, you have to work long and hard. But, only in this way the warming of the bath from the inside will be correct and productive.

Wisdom Quote: Apathy and laziness - the true freezing of the soul and body.

Insulation of a brick bath methods and materials used

Choosing brick as a building material for a bath is a great way to solve several problems at the same time: to give the structure maximum strength and durability, to achieve perfect wall geometry, and to retain heat perfectly. However heat-saving properties of bricks not so good as to guarantee the comfort of bath procedures in severe frosts. Therefore, even a brick bath without fail requires additional insulation.

The inner surface of the walls

The procedure for installing insulation

wooden clapboard.

floor laying technology:

External wall insulation

External work on the thermal insulation of a brick bath are carried out using the same mineral wool insulation, which retains heat well, is non-combustible and is capable of performing the functions of a sound insulator. If rolled insulation is used, then it is easiest to fix it on the outer walls with wooden planks or slats.

When application of thermal insulation in the form of mats based on mineral wool, the technology for performing work will be somewhat different:

a crate is constructed from a metal profile and corners, fastened with dowels to the outer surface of the wall;

Meanwhile, for the insulation of brick baths it is quite possible to use foam sheets. The order of work when insulating a bath with foam heat-insulating material will be like this:

the surface of the brickwork is freed from all types of pollution;

Ceiling insulation

Through the ceiling with poor-quality thermal insulation, up to a quarter of all the heat generated by the stove can go away

Work on the insulation of the ceiling in the bath produced as follows:

fiberglass canvases or mats are laid out on the ceiling boards;

How to insulate a steam room

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in the steam room will be next.

The entire surface of the ceiling is covered with roll paper. At the joints, you need to create overlaps of 10-20 cm.

Similarly, the foil is fastened to the surfaces of the walls in the steam room.

As a sheathing material in the steam room, it is best to use pine lining. Pine perfectly resists both high temperatures and the effects of hot steam from the heater. In addition, due to the presence of a certain amount of resins, distillation from pine will add a special aroma to the atmosphere of the steam room.

In general, the process of warming a brick bath does not cause any particular difficulties even for masters without extensive experience in such work.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside a brick box. The material is a bar-ten, which in itself is a warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

A crate is stuffed onto the brick.
A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
Install timber walls.
A second crate is stuffed over them.
Close the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Between the bars of the crate, the fiberglass is not stretched, but an overlap is made, so that later it is easy to place a heater.
Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
The lining is stuffed last.

The foil is attached to the crate with a construction stapler, without pulling it close

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. To insulate the bath, heat insulators are chosen that will not emit harmful substances at hot temperatures. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimally suited, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the timber with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But still do not do the warming of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrenes. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can focus on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

Brick.
Waterproofing.
Crate.
Insulation.
Waterproofing.
Second crate.
Fiberglass.
Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Clapboard.

The thickness of the internal insulation pie will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering it with foil foam. This foam material is covered on one side with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect IR rays and become a barrier to internal vapors.

Foiled materials are joined together using aluminum tape

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it with a special foil for baths on top. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances during strong heating of the room. Joints in foil insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Material Features

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene. Modern equipment makes it possible to produce material with an ordered structure, in which small gas bubbles are evenly distributed. Such isolated and completely closed microscopic cavities have a size of about 0.1-0.2 mm. The foaming agent is light types of freon with the introduction of carbon dioxide into them.

Penoplex is a foamed polymer made by extrusion from general purpose polystyrene.

By its nature, penoplex has a chemical inertness, which excludes its oxidation or decay. The main goal of developing this material is to provide high thermal insulation capabilities with low water absorption and very high compressive strength. An important characteristic is good manufacturability, i.e. it is easy to cut and bend, which allows it to be used in hard-to-reach places.

As is known, thermal insulation characteristics of any foamed or porous material are sharply reduced under the influence of moisture, which is absolutely not characteristic of foam. A slight water absorption by the material is observed only for the first 7-8 days, when moisture fills the cells located near the surface. In the future, the penetration of water stops, and the initial saturation has little effect on the thermal insulation properties of the product.

Moreover, steam impermeability should be noted, which is very important for bathing conditions.

The main form of release of the plate: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm

The material is divided into 3 groups:

Penoplexstandard.
Penoplex 45.

Its types differ in specific density, mechanical strength and heat resistance. Insulation of the floor in the bath with foam plastic is carried out by the first 2 types of material.

On a note! Penoplex 45 has increased mechanical strength and is designed for floors where significant load and vibration are possible.

The main form of release of the plate: width 60 cm and thickness from 2 to 15 cm. Sheets with a thickness of 10-12 cm are very popular. The standard length of the plates is 120 and 240 cm, in special cases material 4 or 4.5 m long can be used.

How to insulate a steam room in a brick bath

Novice builders mistakenly assume that the construction of a bath ends with the construction of walls and the installation of a stove. But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated. Many claim that a brick building does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of bricks, but this is nothing more than a myth. A well-insulated bathhouse is much warmer from the inside.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will consider all the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath.

We warm the floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, waterproofing

It is important to observe two fundamental rules here: . When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties

It must pass steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties. It must pass steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.
Lay all layers of insulation tightly to each other, avoiding the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you with long discussions about possible heaters, we will say right away that polystyrene is an ideal option for warming the foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and characteristics of the base. Expanded clay is most often used to protect against high humidity. This material perfectly copes with its "duties" and significantly reduces costs. Conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the thickness of the layer should be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

we lay the gyro-insulating layer;
we lay thick foam sheets, strictly observing the dimensions;
we reinforce and tighten the floor with a fill;
lay the floor.

Now it remains only to wait until the solution seizes and you can proceed to the next step.

We heat-insulate the walls

To make the process not troublesome and enjoyable, you need to take care of this at the construction stage. A cobbled crate is installed in the steam room, on which the heat material is fixed. Thus, you protect the insulation from deformation and slipping during operation. If you decide to opt for a loose version, then do not forget to fill up the cracks.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out thermal insulation in several passes, allowing the limestone mortar to grab and dry. If you opted for slabs, then put them between the finish and the wall. Most often, foam is used for insulation inside. One of its sides is covered with foil, which reflects heat and warms up the bath much faster. In addition, the foil insulation has undeniable advantages. It withstands high temperatures and does not collapse from sudden changes, does not allow moisture to pass through.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stop at mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to cotton wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we produce wall cladding inside the bath. Used as cladding natural material- wood.

We insulate the ceiling

Physical processes make it necessary to carefully approach the thermal insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is lighter and rises to the top, it must not be allowed to escape through the ceiling cracks. There is no strong difference between the insulation of the ceiling and the walls, the only thing that needs to be done more carefully and used together is both loose and tiled material. For sheathing, use the same material as for the walls. The uniform style of the room will create a cozy atmosphere.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually made of wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

Expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag is most often used to insulate a concrete floor. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive composition - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofing has set, the laying of the insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which a waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. Concrete must be leveled and properly dried. Finishing such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it, you can place a system of underfloor heating.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and arranged in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the finishing floor is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for bearing wall, but they may indicate a malfunction of the insulation scheme, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. AT winter period the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not evident due to the freezing of bricks from the side of the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated during the winter begins to intensively stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on separate walls baths and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

Adding foil insulation

add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
add an exhaust vent.

Insulation options

Let us immediately make a reservation that there are a large number different ways where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so doing it yourself will not be a big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply a coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
Next, a crate of wooden beams is stuffed onto the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! The optimal thickness of the heat insulator for bath rooms is 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges

Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. It is attached to wooden elements with metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.

Often, experts use double wall insulation, while installing two battens with heaters 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it will not be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as a heater, then there is no need to install hydro and vapor barrier layers. But here it is better not to refuse the crate. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option number 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only wooden with a heat-insulating layer. To do this, a frame of wooden slats is installed on the brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. It is up to everyone to decide. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the elements of the frame:

Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If "yes", then new wall the crate is assembled, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.
And final stage- lining the walls.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

It is impossible to eliminate heat loss in bath rooms without insulation of the ceiling in them

This is especially important to do when they are located in a one-story building.

The sequence of work when arranging the thermal protection of the ceiling in the bath is as follows:

Fiberglass is laid on top of the ceiling, placing overlapping strips of material. They are connected to each other using adhesive tape or adhesive tape.
A solution mixed from clay, chopped straw and river sand is laid on top of the insulation. The thickness of this layer should be approximately 30 centimeters.
A layer of foam is laid on the clay mortar, and then a cement mixture about 10 centimeters thick is poured on top of it.
To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bath structure, you can add foam chips to the cement mass, observing a ratio of 1: 3, and even better 1: 4.
To the rough surface of the ceiling, the bars of the crate are attached from the inside, placing basalt wool in slabs between them.
A foil film is laid over the heat-insulating product, and on top it is sheathed with clapboard, observing a 10-mm gap between the elements.

If the room is properly insulated from the inside, during its operation, the loss of thermal energy will be minimized, which means that visiting the bathhouse will bring maximum pleasure.

The general rule is that the bath is insulated from the inside

During the construction of residential buildings, the main thermal insulation is mounted outside, but during the construction of a bath, the situation is exactly the opposite. And the thing is that the bath is used (heated) periodically, while the house is heated almost all year round.

Therefore, for a bath, it becomes important to preserve the resulting internal heat given off by the stove, without transferring it to the outside.

If you make external insulation, then the structures of the structure (walls, floor, ceiling) will first warm up, and after they are heated, the air inside the room will begin to warm up. In this case, it will take a very long time to heat the bath, which in turn entails an increased consumption of firewood. Read more about warming the bath from the inside.

Scheme

Warming the bath from the outside with your own hands (if you still decide)

If you think that internal insulation will not be enough, or you just want to maximize the life of the bath, then you can do external thermal insulation.
External insulation will increase the holding time of high temperature inside the bath and reduce the cost of maintaining it.

Due to the fact that when installing external thermal insulation, finishing (finishing) materials will be required, you will additionally protect your building from the effects of natural phenomena: fog, rain and snow. That protects the bath from excessive moisture and prolongs its service life.

The material from which the bath is built affects the choice of insulation and the nature of the upcoming work.

Baths erected from a log (calibrated or ordinary) require captious processing (caulking) of all cracks and cracks. To do this, you can use: sphagnum, jute or tow, flax as natural and environmentally friendly materials, or you can use a special wood sealant.

If the material of the walls is timber, then such a bath requires quite serious insulation: for example, with mineral wool on a frame made of slats, using wind and steam protection and subsequent finishing (lining, siding, block house, etc.).

Brick baths or baths made of foam or cinder blocks, foam concrete, etc., must be insulated without fail. All of these materials have high thermal conductivity, which in cold climates can cause high heat losses.

According to the requirements for insulation, it is similar to baths made of timber, but the total thickness of the walls must be at least 80 cm. It can also be used as a heater polystyrene boards, polystyrene or foamed glass.

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the inside? The inner surface of the walls It is most effective to insulate a brick bath with natural heat-insulating materials that perfectly retain heat, but do not emit any harmful substances at high temperatures. In particular, mineral wool webs, available in the form of rolls or individual mats, are excellent for this purpose.

The only one the disadvantage of such a heater- the ability to absorb moisture, which, by definition, is always in abundance in any bath. Therefore, the heat-shielding layer will require additional waterproofing, which protects the mineral wool from steam and water.

The procedure for installing insulation on the interior walls will be as follows:

a supporting frame is erected on a brick wall of wooden slats;
heat-insulating material is laid in the resulting cells. In addition to mineral wool, more modern materials can be used here with great success. For example, foil foam is not only absolutely insensitive to moisture and temperatures of several hundred degrees, but due to the shiny surface of the foil it is able to reflect heat back into the bath rooms;
the entire structure is covered with a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene, foil, etc.). To ensure complete moisture resistance, the waterproofing material should be laid with an overlap of 10-20 cm. To give additional strength to the joints, all joints should be fixed with thin and flat wooden slats.

In order to improve aesthetics, thermal insulation is usually not left open, but closed. wooden clapboard.

In addition to walls, the internal thermal insulation of a brick bath should include Measures to reduce heat loss through floors. The sequence of actions here will be as follows:

a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor cleaned of dust and dirt;
thermal insulation mats are lined and fixed in one way or another;
a layer of waterproofing is laid;
the finishing floor is equipped with the widest possible boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm.

It is very important to consider the material from which the subfloor is made. If it is formed by boards, then they will need to be pre-treated with a means to prevent wood decay.
. The concrete subfloor itself is able to play the role of thermal insulation.

Therefore, even at the stage of its arrangement, one should take care of giving heat-saving properties. This is achieved by the following floor laying technology:

a layer of sand about 5-10 cm thick is poured into the pit;
a solid heat insulator (polystyrene) is laid;
a mixture of cement, sand and crushed foam is poured;
sheets of roofing material are overlapped;
the reinforcing mesh is lined;
a concrete solution is poured with the addition of crushed stone of a fine fraction;
at a height of 10-20 cm, a finished plank floor is created.

The resulting design is advantageous in that it is ventilated. And this means a significant increase in the service life of both the finished floor and the heat-insulating concrete base underneath.

How to insulate the floor in the bath? You will find out the answer to this question by reading this article.

And in this article, read about the insulation of the roof of the bath.

Floor insulation

A brick bath with its solidity suggests that the owner does not intend to limit himself to warm days in order to take a steam bath in it. And this means that of all types of floors at his disposal only:

concrete;
dry wood;
pouring on a concrete screed.

They all need insulation, just a little different.

Dry wood floor consists of rough and finish, between which there is a gap to the height of the floor beam. This space is filled with insulation. Foamed polystyrene foam will be the best - it is not afraid of moisture. Mineral wool and expanded clay need a hydrobarrier before laying the final floor. It is also possible to insulate with ecowool and Aisinin foam. Alternatively, you can also fill the space under the subfloor with expanded clay, but for this you need to waterproof the soil in advance.

Concrete floor on the ground or concrete screed under pouring floor are insulated the same way.

The soil is removed by half a meter.
The future water flow is laid - a pit / ladder and pipes to the outside.
15 cm of gravel is poured and rammed.
Then 35 cm of sand and rammed.
This "pillow" is hermetically sealed with roofing material.
A layer of insulation is laid: mineral wool, expanded clay, slag, felt with tar.
It closes with a hydrobarrier if the insulation is wet.
Reinforcing mesh is laid.
A concrete screed is poured with the desired slope towards the drain.

Find out more:

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath are made of wood or concrete. The technology for applying insulation does not have big differences depending on the material used to make the floor.

The only thing that when constructing a concrete structure is to pour an increased layer of expanded clay. At the same time, it is customary to compare its thickness with the width of the walls, and pour, about twice as thick a layer.

If floor insulation is carried out on the ground (in the case of strip foundation), then do the following:

Treat the walls with a preparation for waterproofing;
Pour sand 10 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;
Cover this layer with roofing material with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.

And then fall asleep expanded clay.

Scheme of floor insulation in a brick bath

Ceiling insulation

The imposition of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling is, in fact, the same as on the walls. It is only necessary to bear in mind some features in this case. Since hot air tends to rise, the thermal insulation layer becomes thicker than on the walls. This is usually achieved by top dressing. ceiling covering, and a foil cloth and facing material are laid inside.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat losses in the bath occur not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, autumn, early spring.

To figure out how and what is better to insulate the floor in the bath, you should remember that the procedure for laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleaned of debris and foreign objects and leveled. A concrete screed must be poured onto the prepared surface.

On the set concrete, you need to lay a layer of rolled waterproofing. It can be roofing material or plastic film.

Further, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing material or polyethylene is re-layed. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying of all layers of the floor cake must be carried out carefully

It is especially necessary to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Properly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for correct use baths and heat preservation

Material

Construction Materials can be divided into structural (steel, concrete, brick, stone) and heat-insulating, which have low strength and specific gravity, but they perfectly retain heat.

Thermal conductivity and specific gravity are interrelated.

That is why almost all heat insulators have a porous structure, float in water and are often combustible.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside can be carried out with any heat insulators that are approved for use in interior work.

The choice of material is carried out necessarily before insulating a brick bath. The required material is indicated in the project.

Here is a sample list of them:

Styrofoam (foamed polystyrene). Moisture resistant, which is well suited for a bath, thermal conductivity is very low. Specific gravity about 25 kg cubic meters. The main drawback is a fire hazardous and non-environmental material;
Mineral wool. It is rarely used in baths, since even after a single wetting it irreversibly “sits down” in volume. With good thermal insulation in the baths, it can be used. The advantage in combination with brick walls is absolute fire resistance;
Basalt slabs. In many properties they are close to mineral wool. Safer for humans;
Organic insulation: moss, straw, sawdust. Now they are almost never used, but as a fallback they are often used;
Prefabricated organic insulation, such as porous cellulose boards. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness. For a bath, a good option;
PU foam. Mainly goes to the insulation of pipes. In rare cases, they insulate houses and baths. It is possible to use both ready-made elements and PPU spraying from a foam generator;
Other polymeric heaters, of which there are many brands: pepoplex, foamed polyethylene, magnesium oxide on acrylic resin;

The insulation can be fireproof, like the rest of the brick bath. How to insulate walls and ceiling - is determined by the budget and the overall project. Of all the options for a bath, foam is most often used (only it has excellent moisture resistance) and basalt slabs.

Both materials are available in the form of flat slabs.

For their installation on walls, floors and ceilings, a trellis frame is always required.

The insulation itself is fragile, does not clearly hold its shape, and on top of its layer there must be a strong outer surface (for example, a bath lining).

The combination of these two layers is provided by the frame. Warming with any plate materials is similar in technology.

This is the installation of plates cut to the size of the frame cell, as well as their adhesive fastening.

Almost any plates are fastened with glue: foam, basalt, ecowool. The choice of glue is carried out according to the recommendations of the insulation manufacturer.

Important! Work with mineral wool, insulation containing fiberglass requires special care. Work in protective equipment, a respirator, goggles.

Work with foam and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with the rules fire safety

When cutting, slight dust formation is possible. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Work with foam plastic and cellulose porous insulation requires compliance with fire safety rules. When cutting, slight dust formation is possible. Such intensive protection as when working with glass wool is not required.

Advantages and disadvantages of penoplex when used in a bath

Penoplex for warming the bath

Among the main advantages of the material for warming baths are:

moisture resistance. During the day, the heat insulator plate absorbs less than 0.4% of its volume, and in a month it can absorb up to 0.6%. Moisture penetration occurs only in upper layer, the inner filling remains dry, even if the foam sheet is completely immersed in water. Due to this factor, the material is not subject to the formation of mold and decay.

Low thermal conductivity. This property is provided by the special structure of the penoplex. The coefficient of heat conductivity is 0.03 W / m and is considered the lowest among heaters.

Strength. Due to the homogeneity of the material, which is achieved by extrusion, it is able to withstand significant mechanical loads. With 10% linear information, its strength is 0.2 MPa. In order not to damage its integrity, insulating the floor, you need to monitor the evenness of the surface.

Vapor resistance. This indicator for penoplex is close to roofing material. Therefore, it is often used for warming bath rooms in which high humidity is maintained.

Ease. The density of the material is only 25-32 kg / meter 3. It is often used for thermal insulation of roofs, since it does not weigh down the structure. Because of this property, it is easy to mount it.

Easy to install. Penoplex for warming the bath is cut with an ordinary construction or clerical knife. Thermal insulation with it can be easily done independently.

Durability. Some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the material up to 50 years.

Chemical resistance. The heat insulator is not affected by alkalis, water-based paints, saline solutions, alcohol compositions, bleach, ammonia, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, various oils, freons, concrete mixtures. However, it must be taken into account that under the influence of formaldehyde, diesel fuel, gasoline, acetone, methyl-, ethyl acetate bases, enamel and oil paints the physical and technical characteristics of the penoplex are deteriorating. Some formulations may even dissolve the material.

Soundproofing. After insulating the roof and walls, you will not hear the sound of rain or the rumble of a busy highway. Noise protection index - 41 dB.

Temperature resistance and stability. The operating temperature of the heat insulator is from -100 to +75 degrees.

As for the shortcomings of the material, it is possible to single out the average flammability index and the release of toxic fumes during combustion. For this reason, before thermal insulation, it is treated with special fire-fighting compounds. Some manufacturers offer insulation already impregnated with flame retardants.

The method of thermal insulation of the basement of the bath with foam

Scheme of insulation of the basement of the bath with penoplex

Plinth - a thinner part of the foundation, to which the walls of the structure are attached. Therefore, the durability of the building depends on the quality of its thermal insulation.

In the process, we adhere to the following sequence:

We cover the base with a waterproofing membrane.

We fix a 12-centimeter layer of foam plastic on top of acrylic glue.

We lay the second layer of waterproofing. It will be a kind of drainage.

We attach a geotextile material that acts as a filter.

Fill with sand-cement screed.

Due to the hydrophobicity of the heat insulator, the steam room will be reliably protected from moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room in a brick bath

Building your own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of bath walls.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Bath made of silicate bricks

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is not particularly difficult now. The main requirement is to do everything neatly and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact between bricks and the ground. Before you insulate a brick bath, you should decide on the option of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several options for thermal insulation:

baths, lined with insulation in the form of plates;

Mineral wool insulation

baths with an air cushion in the wall;

Hollows in the wall

baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

backfill wall

With slab insulation

Warming the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

drill holes in the seams;

insert wooden plugs into the holes;

Some are even ready for sale.

a frame made of a metal profile or wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;

fasten on the rails of the insulation plate;

close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

perform the final finishing of the clapboard.

The insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.

Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt slab fits perfectly

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use of well brickwork and backfill.

Work instructions:

perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully rammed;

the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

complete the laying, performing 3-4 rows of a continuous type of brickwork;

if in the future the wall will not be plastered, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, then the seams should be left unfilled by 10-15 mm.

We make the seams even

If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.

This will not only improve appearance masonry, but also keep the brick from moisture saturation.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Warming the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling should be insulated in the same way.

To work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

by the most simple option to insulate the ceiling, a mixture of straw and clay will be used as a heater, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always cheap way the best.

Finishing

The inner lining of the steam room is usually performed wood materials. It is considered ideal lining made of linden or aspen. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Examples various kinds lining

If you have done the insulation of a brick bath from the inside correctly, then you will not have a draft or condensation, but only a pleasant aroma of wood and a feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can steam!

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of warming, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room, so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible. In one of the publications, we have already touched on the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling. It is also advisable to choose mineral wool roll or plate materials as a ceiling insulation.

It is also widely practiced to backfill the floor with expanded clay.

When insulating the ceiling, it should be remembered that the greatest fire hazard is a hot pipe passing through the ceiling structures, around which it is necessary to arrange reliable insulation from non-combustible material.

The place of passage is called the ceiling cutting. As a rule, the pipe passage through the ceiling is a container filled with non-combustible material with a low thermal conductivity. How the pipe passes through the floor looks like is shown in the photo below:

*** As you can see, the insulation of the walls of a brick bath is no more difficult than that of a bath made of logs or timber. By following the recommendations in the article, you can enjoy a light steam at any time of the year.

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